capri itinerary

Feb 20th, 2009, 12:44 PM
  #1  
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capri itinerary

We will be in Naples in early May for four days, arriving Saturday and leaving Wednesday morning.

Iíve reserved Saturday for finding the hotel and looking around Naples, so this leaves three days, one of which we want to spend on Capri looking at scenery. Monday is probably also out as I read that Villa Jovis is closed, although Iím thinking the parts of that we really want to see are outside, and I wonder if they close the outside?

We plan to arrive on an early morning boat and buy a day pass for the bus. From the dock, we plan to take the funicular to Capri (age has us doing less walking than we once did), then take a bus to Villa Jovis and back. Then from Piazza Umberto I, we will walk using Via Emanuele, Via F. Serena, and Via Matteotti to Augustus Gardens, then using Via Matteotti to the Cartesian Monastery, then Via Ignazio Cerio, Via Camerelle, and Via Tragera to the end to view the Faraglioni rocks, then back Via Tragera, Via Camerelle, and Via Emmanuele back to Piazza Umberto I.

From there, we plan to take the bus to Ana Capri. I hope we can get a view of Scala Fenicia from the bus, but Iíve left it off our list of sights as Iím not sure we will have time. If weather precludes going into the Blue Grotto we will substitute the Monthe museum.

From Piazza Vittoria in Ana Capri, we want to ride the lift to Mount Solaro and back, then catch a bus to Termini to visit the Grotto Azzura. I know people recommend getting to the Blue Grotto early to beat the crowds, but I also read it is at itís most beautiful in the afternoon when the sunlight is from the west. I donít yet know how we will get back to the boat terminal, as dinner will be involved if we have time. Iíve read we could take a bus to Ana Capri and from there directly to the boat terminal; I donít know if there is a more direct connection.

Iíve limited our itinerary to what we really want to see (except the Cartesian Monastery, which I included as weíll be walking right by it), since I know it is easy to try and squeeze too much into a day, particularly on hilly terrain. So I am asking for opinions on whether we have an itinerary that can be done in one day, or not. Iíve omitted any plans for eating, as we typically just go until we are tired, then find a place to eat and rest before heading out again. Also, if walking would be quicker than waiting for a bus, we would be inclined to try walking, at least for the first few legs.

Thanks for any suggestions.
clevelandbrown is offline  
Feb 20th, 2009, 01:12 PM
  #2  
kja
 
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Hi, clevelandbrown -

I'm sure others will chime in, but I think your itinerary is quite ambitious - perhaps overly so. As for the Blue Grotto, you might consider checking in with the boat operators or tourist information office as soon as you arrive on Capri, because access is often limited by weather or tides. They should be able to advise you about when and whether you can visit it on that particular day.

Hope that helps!
kja is offline  
Feb 20th, 2009, 01:12 PM
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My husband and I spent a beautiful day in January wandering around Capri. You can certainly do everything you've listed in a day, but I have to make a plug for a little less structure to just kind of follow an interesting street. We did not do the Blue Grotto (since it was, after all, January). We did visit Axel Munthe's home and gardens and really enjoyed both, particularly the spectacular view from the gardens.
artsbabe is offline  
Feb 20th, 2009, 01:14 PM
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I see that kja and I hit the "submit" button at the same time. I still think you itinerary is doable, it perhaps seems like too much because it is so structured.
artsbabe is offline  
Feb 20th, 2009, 02:31 PM
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I don't see any mention of the San Michele church (Ana Capri, I believe) and the extraordinary majolica tile floor of the Garden of Eden. Please try to see this while you're on Capri.

I'm interested in the boat schedules back to Naples. I've only visited Capri once, from Sorrento, and the last boat back was at 4 or 5 PM. Since you mentioned eating dinner on Capri are there late boats back to Naples? How late do they run?
adrienne is offline  
Feb 20th, 2009, 04:58 PM
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Well, Capri is a lovely place, but it doesn't seem as if you're spending the night.

i think you should be prepared for what happened to us when we got off the ferry and looked at the line to go up to the funicular. we spent 1 night there and did have a fabulous time, but we are not "crowds" people, so we tried to avoid them and as a result we missed the major "attractions". (i had all the same things you do on my list) still, we had an amazing time during our stay, greatly enjoying our own boat trip around the island and some time relaxing at a beach club.

if you want more details, here's my italy trip report link:

http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...rip-report.cfm

(or i guess with this new system, you can click on my name to go to my profile, and then see it's the first trip report listed at the bottom of the page)

in the trip report, you'll need to scroll down a bit through positano. capri comes after that.

have fun!
dina
dina4 is offline  
Feb 20th, 2009, 05:24 PM
  #7  
 
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Cleveland,

I think you may be confusing the Villa Jovis with the Axel Muenth house in Anacapri. Villa Jovis is ALL outdoors, it's ruins, and there is no bus to get there. It's kind of a long walk up to the entrance where they take your ticket. I guess if it's closed on Mondays, they may put up some sort of barrier to keep you out of the site.

The Meunth house has lovely gardens which I liked much better than the house itself. From what I could tell, if it's closed, the gardens will be too as they are private.

Yes, do visit the Chiesa di San Michele. The floor is amazing and it doesn't take much time to see.

I stayed 2 nts and did: 2 hr boat tour around the island (best highlight), Villa Jovis (views are incredible), walked to the Arco Naturale, rode the chairlift up to Monte Solare (SP?), Chiesa San Michele, Muenth house, strolled around the town a bit and somehow managed to avoid being run over by the tour groups and their mountianous luggage carts. (Didn't care for Capri town much).

I don't think you'll get to everything on your list, but maybe a lot of it.

If you want to avoid the HUGE lines for funiculare tickets and then the next HUGE line for the funiculare itself, take the town bus up, or take a private taxi. I took a taxi straight from Marina Grande to Anacapri for 20E in 2005. Well worth it. Nearly impossible to get even 1 22" suitcase on the town bus, it was jampacked.

Buon viaggio!
Dayle is offline  
Feb 20th, 2009, 08:32 PM
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If you're prepared to hustle, and to take taxis if the lines for funicular/bus are too long, you can probably do just about everything you mention. The distances aren't that great. It's an easy 45-minute walk out to Villa Jovis - but of course that means you will use up about 2 hours of your day, when you factor in taking time to see the site. Less than that to do the circuit from the center of Capri town down to Gardens of Augustus and out to the end of via Tragera. What will slow you down is waiting for the funicular/bus up to Capri, then up to Anacapri, etc. But you can figure that out. One way to see more is to hire a taxi to take you around for part of the day.

May I make a couple of suggestions? As already mentioned, do visit Chiesa San Michele. It's right in the center of Anacapri (which is a very small place) and the exquisite majolica floor is really not to be missed. You can climb a circular stair up to the loft and look down on it for a good overall view.

Also, do consider a visit to Villa San Michele, once the home and garden of Axel Munthe, a Swedish physician of the early 20th century. It's a very lovely place to visit, and here you will find the red granite sphinx, whose photograph is one of the iconic images of Capri. Here's a photo: http://gardentouring.fotopic.net/p24435341.html The garden is accessed through the house, so if the house is closed, you can't visit the garden either.

The so-called Phoenecian Steps - Scala Fenici - which wind their way up to Anacapri end just below the sphinx. You can walk along just past the entrance to Villa San Michele, around the corner and you will find the top of the steps, if you'd like to walk down them a little way: http://gardentouring.fotopic.net/p24435318.html

You can walk from Capri town down to Marina Piccola, which is on the opposite side of the island from Marina Grande, in about 20 minutes or so, and then take a bus back up. From Marina Piccola you have a sea-level view of the Faraglione. There are several small restaurants there and there usually aren't many people about: http://gardentouring.fotopic.net/p56511662.html

If you're interested, here is a collection of photos of Capri, including the places I've mentioned: http://gardentouring.fotopic.net/c812668_1.html You can click on the thumbnails if you want to see larger images with more detail.

Whatever you do while on Capri, you're sure to have a lovely time. It's a beautiful place, one of my favorites.
julia1 is offline  
Feb 20th, 2009, 08:32 PM
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Hmm, I had heard that there was room in the funicular for luggage but it doesn't sound like it. But I'm going the first week of April, just before the Easter weekend.

So I was thinking about 2 nights in Capri but I didn't know about half the things listed by the OP.

Is Capri worth 2 nights or use the extra night for the AC and Pompeii/Herculeum/Naples? I plan to stay in Sorrento because it seems the most central, before going to Capri.

And yeah, I saw that the last ferry out was around 5 PM, maybe even earlier.
scrb is offline  
Feb 20th, 2009, 09:08 PM
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Cevelandbrown - I forgot to mention - yes, there are buses that go directly to Marina Grande from Anacapri. But as there are usually many people wanting to do the same thing to catch the last ferries back, the queue is often very long and you should be prepared to watch several buses leave without you before you can get on one.

scrb - Capri is definitely worth 2 nights if you're interested in kind of kicking back and enjoying the best Capri has to offer, which is the beauty of the place once all the day-trippers. Capri is enchanting. It also may be the most exploited island you'll ever find, but put some distance between yourself and the overrun marinas and piazzas and shopping streets and wait until all the camera-clutching tourists disappear on the late afternoon ferries. Then it will be just you and the Capriots and the few others who remain. This is Capri town after dark: http://gardentouring.fotopic.net/p56511659.html
julia1 is offline  
Feb 21st, 2009, 09:31 AM
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Thanks julia, I'll stay with the original plans.

Nice pics.

I'm going to geotag my pics there.
scrb is offline  
Feb 21st, 2009, 12:21 PM
  #12  
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Thanks for the suggestions. Apparently time will be more of a problem than I had realized. I had found web sites for some of the ferry services, but they all lacked the magic button that converts their language to English, so it was hard to find schedules and I decided to just settle that issue when we first arrive in Naples. After your responses, I renewed my efforts and finally found a schedule, a hydrofoil that leaves Naples at 0835 and last leaves Capri at 1720. Since I can't read Italian, I don't know if that was their Winter Schedule, but hope they have longer hours when we are there.

I found some youtube videos and recommended them to my wife, and she is having reservations about the blue grotto. I think this may be because of the poor quality of the video, but I know part is due to her not liking to sit in a rocking boat waiting to go in. I still want to see it, because I have heard of it since I was a kid; in fact, I didn't know about any of the other attractions on Capri until I started my research for this trip.

All the information I have gathered is from guidebooks and the internet, including even sites like wikipedia, and may be outdated or inaccurate. On our first trip to Paris I found a guidebook recommendation and a web site for a restaurant near our apartment, so planned to dine there our first evening. When we finally found it (the sign was gone, but it was in a hotel which was still there), they said the restaurant had been gone for a couple of years, yet the recommendation and the web site remained.

I had picked the Augustus Gardens over Marina Piccola because of the gardens, and the chance to see the Krupp road and the Faraglione, all in what I hope is a short walk. Chiesa San Michele and Villa San Michele are near the top of the list, and will depend on what I expect will be a last-minute decision regarding the blue grotto, and our energy.

Capri is starting to remind me of Venice, which is much more pleasant in the evening after the cruise ship passengers have departed, but where some of the places you would want to visit close.
clevelandbrown is offline  
Apr 15th, 2009, 12:52 PM
  #13  
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For those interested in ferry schedules (and costs), I want to report that I have found a site
http://www.capri.net/en/ship-timetable
that appears to offer rather complete and current information.

We leave in a week and I'm still trying to talk my wife into taking the 05:40 ferry, and, if we last, the last one back at 21:00.
clevelandbrown is offline  
Apr 15th, 2009, 01:06 PM
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I would double-check those schedules with the booths selling tickets at the Marina Grande.

For instance, I had a morning train from Naples to Rome so according to that site, there were ferries at 8:10 8:30 and 9:30.

I was thinking of taking the 8:30 because the 9:30 would be too late to make my train connection.

But in fact, there was only 8:10 and 9:30 ferries.

The tourist office and hotels know which ones are available. But the booths also display the times for the ferry/hydrofoils.
scrb is offline  
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