Hi everyone, Can someone give me information about canoeing in the Sarlat area - the best routes, companies etc. We are completely inexperienced and would need calm, slow water. Do any of the companies have kayaks? We will be there in May.
thank you

travelbug, we had an idylic canoe trip down the Dordogne last June in a plastic canoe/kayak rented in Cénac. We did see actual kayaks in some places along the river so they are available. You can get information at the Sarlat tourist office. Here's my report and photos.

Canoeing Down the Dordogne

My plan was to be at the canoe place by 9:00 when it opened but DH had other ideas so it was closer to 10:00 by the time we were life-jacketed and ready to push off. We had picked up a number of canoe brochures but followed Carlux’s recommendation to use a place in Cénac just below Domme. It wasn’t until we returned that we realized we had gone to the wrong place by mistake but it turned out to be a happy accident. First of all, Le Sioux was more reasonable than other places, just 10 euros each for a three hour 13k trip from Cénac to just past Beynac. Plus one more euro for a waterproof box that turned out to be a plastic barrel big enough to hold several purses or bags. Secondly, our green plastic canoe/kayak hybrid was different from everyone else’s red plastic canoe so we felt unique. Thirdly, Le Sioux provided one regular paddle pour moi and a double bladed paddle for DH. I really liked this because after I energetically paddled for the first few hundred yards DH said that there really wasn’t any need as the current would carry us along at the rate of 5k per hour (he had done his homework!) and he could easily steer from the rear with his clever paddle.

Having very fair skin I came prepared. I slathered on 50 proof sun block and I wore long sleeved pants and shirts in light cotton as well as my large sunhat. Since we started early the sun was at our backs. This proved beneficial for taking photos too. I carefully wound my camera strap around my wrist a couple of times for security. I was a little nervous at first about capsizing but my uneasiness soon faded as I realized how shallow the river was and how clear. We could see the bottom and watch the fish swimming between the rocks and water plants. Iridescent dragonflies skimmed above the water. My back felt sore after a while but I realized that I could lean back to rest it against the waterproof barrel from time to time. Totally, totally idyllic!

In the summer I’ve been told that the Dordogne is awash in canoes but at the beginning of June there were times when we had no other canoes in sight or just one or two. At the very beginning we caught up to a group of canoes with young people and a couple of instructors lined up across the river. One instructor proceeded to run across the flotilla of canoes then back and forth until he fell into the water. Then the kids took turns trying his trick but none made it as far as the instructor. They were wearing bathing suits so didn’t mind getting drenched. Several times we passed people swimming or picque-nicqueing along the shore.

My only regret was that I hadn’t thought to pack a lunch but we only expected to paddle for an hour or so and return home for lunch. After one bridge we saw a sign for frites and pulled ashore, quickly followed by an English couple who thought this was a good idea too. I had to gingerly inch my way forward onto the bow to pull the boat ashore. The frites were disappointing, not nearly as good as the fries I can get at my downtown neighbourhood chip truck. But they held us until our real lunch and there were toilets there too so it was okay. I wish I had known then about the restaurant near the bridge at Caslenaud that StCirq’s kids enjoy. Right bank or left I wonder. The English couple told us they had a second home a bit further north. While we munched our frites the group of young canoers pulled up as well and we realized we were right beside their home base.

It was such a pleasant experience that I can’t think of enough superlatives to describe our day floating past one chateau after another. This was the best part, viewing the chateaux from the water rather than the road. Hopefully my photos will make up for my lack of words. I kept thinking, we’re here, this is happening right now! If you go to the Dordogne, don’t miss going on the Dordogne!

Larger tour boats ply up and down the river between Castelnaud and Beyrac, creating waves that rock the canoes if you don’t face properly. We heard tour guides loudspeaking in français on the boats. Little children waved at us and were excited when we responded. Because of all the jumping fish we weren’t suprised to spot a couple of fishermen along the banks.

Right after the fourth bridge we saw a sign indicating the end of our canoe trip and pulled in to the left bank. This time I didn’t have to carefully inch my way forward onto the bow since DH pulled in at a right angle to the shore. There was a lovely view of Beynac looking back under an arch of the bridge and a lonely snack bar. DH was shoed away from sitting at one of the tables while I found a good spot for taking photos. Soon a large bus came along and we climbed on, leaving our canoe and life jackets behind. Probably a truck scoops them all up at the end of the day.

We were surprised at having a whole bus to ourselves but it soon pulled over at another bridge and 16 more people climbed aboard. The last to arrive was a family of four who almost overshot the landing area. The father had to jump in the water to pull the boat ashore. We were relieved to see the driver count heads before pulling away. After all my paddling (ha!) I took a nap after lunch.

Lots of Photos of Dordogne Canoe Trip: http://tinyurl.com/fpq5u

Hi Marilyn - great response yo canoeing down the Dordigne. On my list.
Your photo link doesn't seem to be working....

Another alternative for real novices:

We stayed at Bordeilles and the wonderful little hotel arranged to take us up to Brantome, where we got in canoes and worked our way back to Bordeilles on the pretty little shady Dronne River (River is an exaggerated term for this peaceful little stream). We had a wonderful day -- about 3 and a half hours of actual canoeing, mostly just letting the current take us. A couple of times we got out and waded to pull the canoes over some very shallow areas. There is a small company that lets you end at Bordeilles and takes the canoes back to Brantome.

Here's the wonderful little place we stayed in Bordeilles:
http://www.griffons.fr/

bob, I tried it and think the link is okay but here's a new one in case you aren't the only person who can't open it. Notice my all purpose Tilley hat in the second last photo.

http://tinyurl.com/2nbjt4

The easiest thing to do is to go to Cenac, just below Domme, where there are a number of agencies along the river. Cross the bridge and turn left and you will see them.

There isn't much difference between them - just check out the look of the canoes/kayaks you see, and choose one. You normally go from there to Beynac, about 2-3 hours, depending on the strength of the current. The river will probably still be high enough at that time that you wont have to do much paddling. Get out at Beynac and wait for the driver to pick you and the canoes up, and take you back to your car.

Normally there isnt much real canoing involved, and you dont need experience. If it's a nice day you can picnic on the side.

By the way, for anyone who knows the area, it has been very wet recently, and the Dordogne is particularly high - over the road at La Roque Gageac, and into the fields at many places. Hope some of that is going into the water table, which desperately needs it.

Moolyn, thank you for a wonderful answer and great pictures. And thanks to others who answered. Carlux - I hope the river is calm and the area has dried out by May.
travelbug

Marilyn your pictures are wonderful - whets the appetite.
The second link works fine... saw the Tilley... got mine packed.

Did you see any of the famed piranhas of the Dordogne?

Groléjac, up river from Sarlat on D704, has at least two rental companies. We used the one that is over the bridge (take an immediate right after the bridge and follow the river).

We also did the Cenac-Beynac route. We took our 3 year old, because we knew it was a calm easy ride. I would think a canoe would be easier than a kayak.

I only have one picture from our canoe trip posted, but it's a good one:
http://tinyurl.com/2b77zb

Totally agree with the other posters about the ease and fun of this - we rented from Cenac also. But I wanted to suggest that you bring a lunch, wear a swimsuit (obviously, I guess), and water shoes. There are several rocky beaches along the route where you can pull over and picnic and swim. The water is nice but the bottom rocky so the shoes help. Our children loved playing on the rocky beach in the water with the castles in the background. Have fun!

CristyCruz
Wow! what a picture!
Luna1: won't it be a little cool for swimming in May when we are going?

Swimming is very limited on the river. I would guess that its maximum depth is 2 or 3 ft. between Groléjac and Beynac. The flow of the water is controlled by water releases from upriver dams. We did the trip in a canoe and only the feet got wet; bathing suits are not essential.

My husband and I did the canoes down the Dordogne last July.

We started in Vitrac (according to my notes) and ended just past Beynac. We did stop off for a swim, as we were there during the heat wave. It was a great day. We were even able to pull up at Roque Gageac and my husband went up into town to get snacks from a boulangerie while I waited with the canoe.

There are pictures in this album from our canoe trip ...

http://tinyurl.com/229272

lp_nyc,

A small correction: photo 75 cannot have been taken from Hautefort which is not close to any visible river.

Kayaking and travel are my two favoutire hobbies. It would be great to conbine them both. Shame Mrs Stumblebum only likes the travel bit...