mmichaels

Hello all--

We are making a first trip to Greece (save for Athens), traveling from Amsterdam via Lufthansa May 3-12.

The only thing set in stone is a trip to Santorini, flying both ways via Aegean Air, arriving May 8 and departing May 11 (to ensure a day in Athens to give us leeway on the return).

We are fans of historic sites, ruins, but have seen many in Sicily, etc. Nafplio intrigues me, and I'd hope to base ourselves there and travel to Mycenae, Epidavros, and Tiryns.

Would we be better off doing the above via bus or rental car? Pick up a car in Athens (and see sites on the way, perhaps leaving some time for Mystras, Githios, etc.?) or take the bus to Nafplio and rent from there?

Jusy trying to determine how best to maximize 4 days in the Peloponnese.

Also, I am terribly allergic to mosquitoes--had to spend the final week of our month in Paris last summer inside our apartment due to the beasts--that's how bad it is! I know it depends on rainfall, etc., but will I encounter a plague anywhere I've outlined above?

Many thanks in advance!

stanbr

I think that a rental car is the best way to go. There are many rental companies servicing the Athens Airport. The bonus is you do not have to drive in Athens.
The highway from the Airport to Corinth is 4 or more lanes and high speed all the way.
On the way to Nauplion be sure to stop in Corinth and take in Ancient Corinth which is actually the remains of the Roman city from Biblical times. Just as you turn off the highway to head south to Nauplion look for signs the other way to Ancient Nemia. It is about 5 km off the road. It was a rival city to Olympia and it still has an intact stadium, a temple ruin and a very good museum.
Nauplion itself has an old town and three Venetian era fortresses.
It is a good jump off spot for a long day trip to Mystras.
Here are our pictures of Mystras
http://travel.webshots.com/album/551988174qxbTNw
Here are our pictures of Nauplion and surrounding area.

stanbr

Apparently i did not paste in the Nauplion pictures. Here they are;
http://travel.webshots.com/album/551991579dJbWvh
I also forgot to talk about mosquitoes.
We have never been bothered by mosquitoes in Greece during the day.
The sun is simply too hot.
We did have a couple of nights from hell in Naxos and Santorini with mosquitoes dive bombing us in bed all night long.
I can say we have not had a problem in any of the towns or the many tavernas during dinner. The little buggers seem to reserve their torture for bedrooms at night.
We have a foolproof strategy to combat them at night. Never turn on a light with an open window or door.
Get into your room close any doors or windows then turn on the lights.
If it gets stuffy turn on the air conditioning on low or just fan. We have never had a probvlem since we figured this out. On the The two bad nights we had, we left the windows open and turned on the lights. Bad mistake.
Otherwise we have never had a problem with mosquitoes.

travelerjan

Also, that early in May, in Nafplio, not likely to get mosquitoes ... at least my experience. And especially if you stay in the area that I favor anyway... high up by castle walls, looking down on town and bay. Hotel Leto is my fave (tell them Janet from Phlly sent you); all rooms have town & sea view, but ask if available for one with both balcony and double bed. Next door, Pension Eleni also nice, and just down the way, Pension Ligeia ... google them all for websites phtos, contact e-mail addresses -- also TA reviews. Also up there, pension marianna (rooms have views, few have balconies).

Re car rental, many choices: savvy frequent-renters tell me that Budget gives exc. prices IF you enquire via its GREEk website http://www.budget-athens.gr/ -- if u inquire via USA site, u pay more. Hmmm.

dina4

hi,

personally, i would definitely rent a car. it will give you more options.

1. you can do day trips, as you suggested. we went to Epidauros (sp?), the ancient stadium with excellent acoustics and it was amazing.

2. you can take a 10-min drive to Tolo Beach and enjoy the sun.

There's a big parking lot at the bottom of Nafpion, but most hotels will let you drop off your luggage and then go down to park. very easy.

Also, regarding mosquitos, we were there in late june, and we didn't run into any. my daughter is a mosquito magnet, and we didn't have any problems.
I do remember as a child in greece that mosquitos were a realy problem in kalamata. i am not sure if you plan to go that far south...

have a great trip!
dina

mmichaels

Thank you both for your prompt, thoughtful replies!

We are getting into Athens from Berlin via Munich at 18:10, so will plan to spend the night at/near the airport, and pick up rental car in the A.M. to head toward Nauplio.

(And Jan, will definitely follow up on Budget via its Greek site---great advice, as well as re the mosquitoes--will bring repellent anyway, of course!)

If we get an early start from the airport, can we see Corinth, Mycanae, and Epidavros in one long day?

We are early 40s, walk a lot, and don't tend to linger long at sites. (I'd imagine this leg is fairly fast, driving wise, as you've described, and my husband loves driving, including in Portugal and Sicily--yikes!)

Then we'd overnight in Nafplio, and spend another day and night there exploring and relaxing in the town.

That leaves us with two more days in the Peloponnese.

I'm intrigued by the Mani Peninsula (seeing Mystras on the way) and tooling around there. Matt Barrett speaks well of Githio, and we'd like to get some of that "port/cafe" culture that we aren't likely to get on Santorini. There is also a lovely seaside hotel at Gerolimin that was just featured in Conde Nast Traveler.

Anyone have comments on this itinerary? Are we trying to do too much? We're pretty active and restless, and will have been relaxing and writing in Amsterdam and Berlin for the remainder of the summer, so this is our "big push".

I'd appreciate any and all thoughts. (And meanwhile I'll check Michelin to try to gauge distances and times.)

Cheers!

ms_go

We visited the Peloponnese last year about month or so earlier than your trip. We had a couple more days and split our time between Nafplio and the area to the south--Mystras, the Mani peninsula and Monemvasia. Loved it! Here's the link to our trip report, in case it is helpful:

http://www.onelittleworld.com/greece_1.html

thursdaysd

I didn't care that much for Gythio - definitely consider Gerolimenas instead. And plan to see, if not stay on, Monemvasia. For a TR on my visit to the Peloponnese, admittedly with a tour group, see www.wilhelmwords.com/rsg2006/index.html, photos at kwilhelm.smugmug.com/Travel/264391. BTW, I'm extremely attractive to insects, and I don't remember any mosquitoes in Greece - but I was there a bit earlier in the year than you.

mmichaels

Wow!

Thank you, everyone, for your generosity---I can get it all together now, with your tips about the Mani, Gerolimenas, etc.

ms_go: Your blog is amazing; I've bookmarked it now only for this but for future trips. You're a fantastic writer and all the tips on eateries, etc., will come in **way** handy!

thursdaysd: Your photos are particularly lovely---and thanks for the advice against Gythio. One proviso: Your Web link didn't work for me. Just a heads up.

Thanks again to all!

thursdaysd

mmichaels - my bad - try wilhelmswords.com/rsg2006/index.html Glad you liked the pix!

mmichaels

Ah, that works! Great trip report.

I think we will forgo Santorini this trip in order to give us more time to leisurely explore the diversity of the Peloponnese.

There's always next time! I have a very distinct feeling we'll be returning...

stanbr

You asked if you could see Ancient Corinth Mycenae and Ephadarus in one day.
Yes you can.
However you might want to try Ancient Corinth Ancient Nemia, Mycene and Tiryns. They are all on a direct path to Nauplion.
Ephadarus is out of the way and may better be appreciated on a day trip.
Since you expressed an interest in other parts of the Peloppones I have additional pictures of Monemvasia and the Mani.
Mani
http://travel.webshots.com/album/551988658NSgKQY
Monemvasia
http://travel.webshots.com/album/551987765EoLDkO

mmichaels

Thanks stanbr; that makes far more sense.

Also, as we "backtrack" from the Mani to the Athens airport, what would be a good overnight stop? Nauplion again?

(Our Aegean Air flight to Santorini, if we keep that island in the itinerary, leaves at 16:15.)

Also, any idea if the water around Gerolimenas/Mani will be warm enough to swim in first week of May?

That's it---I promise no more questions, and thanks again, all!

julia1

We visited mainland Greece several years ago about the same time of year, late April-early May, for 12 days, 3 of which were spent in Athens and another visiting Sounion.

We arrived Athens from London about 3:30 am, picked up a car and drove directly to Delphi, arriving in time for breakfast. Spent 3 nights in Delphi, using it as a base to explore the surrounding area, doing a lot of walking. Then went on to the Peloponnese, Olympia, Mystras, Nafplio, Corinth, etc. I think you'll have ample time for your proposed itinerary through the Peloponnese.

No mosquitoes, and I really think it's unlikely you will run into any on your particular itinerary. Highlights among the ancient sites, for me, were Mycenae, Epidaurus, Argos, and especially Delphi. Also enjoyed Mystras and Nafplio very much.

Here are some photos, if you're interested: http://jmstudio.fotopic.net/c1651912.html

stanbr

mmichaels
We always stay the last night in Nauplion before heading back to the airport. By this time you will have discovered special places in Naupfion and will want to revisit them. It is an easy drive back to the airport. We leave about 3 hours for the drive back but realistically it is a little over two hours. The last gas station is about 10 km before the airport.
Julia1 makes a good suggestion. Argos is just a few kilometers from Nuaplion and it really does not get a good write up in the Greece guide books however there is a Venetian fortress there and a Roman ruin at the bottom of the hill at the fortress that is really well worth spending an hour or so exploring.

The water will be brisk. Having said that here in Canada the water can be really cold so Greece in May is OK for us.

tom_h

Bring mosquito repellant.

I had mosquito troubles during May 1-20, in Monemvasia, Santorini, and Kardamyli (Mani), and it was generally when going to bed.

Stanbr's comment about lights & open windows seems to ring true.

Where the skeeters come from, is a mystery to me ... no obvious puddles/pools of stagnant water.

I don't recall any big mosquito problem in Nafplio.

PS: I concur that a rental car in Peloponesses is preferred.

ParisAmsterdam

I was in Greece last year in early May.
Left Athens by car in the morning and visited Mycenae, Tiryns, lunch in Nafplio, Epidaurus then back to Athens by supper time.

It was a busy day but we had a great time and aside from Nafplio I don't feel we shortchanged ourselves on any sites.

We didn't see any mosquitoes but they can come out in the evening and we were back in Athens by evening.

Good luck with your itinerary... you will have a great time.

Rob

yiassas

Just to confirm, bring & use mosquito repellent!
I live on the Peloponnese & they are actually around, in varying amounts, all year! At the moment we are having a col spell, but still see the occasional one, very dopey, but there nonetheless!
In addition to stanbr's advice about lights & windows, spray the room before you go out for the evening, Moufflon spray (in a yellow can) which is available here seems very effective & doesn't smell as obnoxious as some. Use plug-ins from dusk to dawn.
I don't know what choices you have in the States for repellent, but if you need some when you get here try Off! It's a small spray plastic bottle, again not not too smelly, & most importantly it works!
Sit near a fan, they don't like the breeze! Eat lots of garlic & lemon, which is not too difficult in Greece!
If you are prone to bites swelling have some Brassan handy, a couple of those stop the worst of the swelling developing. They are anti-inflammatories available over the counter at the pharmacy, but make sure they won't conflict with any other medication you may take.
Other tips, keep a small tube of Savlon (medicated cream) in the fridge & apply immediately you notice a bite, helps reduce itching, as does vinegar!
Sorry about the long essay, but as someone who also seems to attract the little !%X&*'s I hope to help you be prepared by giving you a few choices.
The one thing you can be sure of is the one night you don't bother with anything because you haven't seen any is the one night they all find you!

travelerjan

Hi Yiassas, didn't know u posted here...a great boon for Fodor's w. your on-the-ground expertise!

A last tip for MM about Nafplio: just learned last month that there now is a kiosk on the seafront where you can pick up a FREE audio guide (u leave some ID to assure that you will return the equipment), it walks u by about 40 key historical or ancient landmarks, about an hour's stroll; sounds great I plan to check it out on my return in late May.

A final tip (really from stanbr) about the car-rental: if u are supposed to return it with a full tank, keep eye peeled when approaching airport, the last gas station is about 10 km from the airport.