Guy18

My Cumbria/Yorkshire trip is coming together nicely. I am trying to decide if, after five days of being in the Cumbrian countryside doing walks mainly, should my next hotel be IN York or NEAR York. I'll mainly be driving around to gardens and houses in the area. I also want to visit York--the shambles and cathedral and such. I THINK I want to be right in York so that, having been in the countryside for several days, if I feel like, I can check out some music spots, pubs, coffee shops, etc. at night. (I'm traveling alone, by the way.) My concern is that getting in and out of the city will be a hassle and also whether I will be missing out on the experience of staying at yet another country b & b, which, in and of itself, appeals to me more than a city b & b. Any thoughts?

Tracey14

Hey, Guy18. Having been to York and Yorkshire only once, I don't feel comfortable making recommendations, but here's what I experienced during my trip last May. I stayed in York for three nights (two at trip's beginning; one a trip's end). I found it fairly easy getting in and out of York, with the exception of the first night, when I wasn't familiar at all with the layout (no sleep on the plane might have had something to do with it). Though I am like you in preferring a country B&B to a city B&B, I did enjoy my nights in York, mainly so that I could enjoy a variety of local pubs. I did notice that parking, esp. close to the city center during the day, seemed at a premium, so I was glad to stay close to the city walls at a B&B that provided parking. I gave the city itself only one complete day, which I regret: I was able to see the Minster, the Merchant Adventurers Hall, Fairfax House (not sure I have the name right), the Shambles ... but I missed out on several parish churches that I would have liked to visit. Anyway, my point is this: I was glad to stay in York, since it is a city for walking. Re. the rest of your itinerary: you could do Newby Hall and Fountains Abbey/Studley Water Gardens on the same day; and I found that Castle Howard took a day for me - and I still didn't get to walk around as much of the grounds as I wanted.

Guy18

Thanks again, Tracey. I think I'll go with York. I found what looks like a nice b and and later found it recommended on another thread).

I can't believe there's actually someone beside myself who would want to see parish churches! Are there lots of good ones in York? I'll have to check that out!

wasleys

York, being a very big city in medieval times, had a lot of parishes within the city. Many of the original churches became redundant and some of these have found new uses.

Have a look at:

http://www.britainexpress.com/cities/york/churches.htm
http://www.thisisyork.co.uk/york/ins.../churches.html

On a totally different tack don't forget the National Railway Museum. (A lot of Anglican vicars were railway enthusiasts, so there is a connection!)

Guy18

I have NO idea how that sickly-looking "smiley" face ended up in my last post! Are the fodor's people trying to tell me what they think of my plans????

Guy18

Thanks wasleys. I had just been on thisisyork after plugging in "york parish churches"!

A National Railway Museum? Gosh. I will have had to have seen every baptismal font and every foxglove in Yorkshire before I'd make it there, I'm afraid. Vicars notwithstanding. Sorry wasleys!

wasleys

If you are into churches and have the time and inclination there are some splendid examples in East Yorkshire. Also Beverley Minster is quite superb.

janisj

Guy18: You have to be careful using ) and ( and some other punctuation.

You got the by typing b and ( w/o any spaces. Your b&b ( . . . became b&

Check here http://www.fodors.com/forums/smileys/

Maria_H

If you stay in York itself, ensure your b&b has a parking space. As has been mentioned parking can be difficult and expensive otherwise.

I particularly like the Castle Museum with it's mock up of a Victorian Street and room settings from different eras. there are also some fascinating collecions of every day objects throughout history, from toys to vacuum cleaners:

http://www.yorkcastlemuseum.org.uk/

oldie

Whenever I go to York I use park and ride.
It saves a lot of hassle.

jan

Guy18,

Your header was too hard to resist for this lurker. York is my favorite city in England and when I have visited, it has always been before or after a walking holiday. So I think you will be pleased with your choice to stay in town a few days after being in the country.

I love to explore churches and gardens as well so here are my favorites...

Museum Gardens. Although they can appear crowded and lively from the exterior, as you walk further in, you will find peaceful spots to enjoy. It's a natural garden, not formal, with the ruins of St. Mary's Abbey as a nice atmospheric backdrop.

Gardens behind the Treasurer's House, Gray's House and the Minster. I have never been able to figure out to gain admittance-maybe someone else will know if it's even possible-but these are beautiful formal and cottagey gardens that you spy into from the walk on the walls between Bootham Bar and Monk Bar. The gates to the walls open around 8am, it's best to do this walk early when it's peaceful.

In terms of parish churches, I enjoyed attending a service(very simple, sparsely attended) and having a look around St. Martin le Grand on
Coney Street. It was very moving to see the juxtaposition of the 15th c. window and the modern East window in the ruins of the partially bombed out church.

All Saints Pavement on High Ousegate and Holy Trinity, tucked away on Goodramgate, are both interesting buildings. I'm sure you know to check on open hours in advance of your visit, I had a few failed attempts at getting into All Saints on North Street and St. Helen's.

If you are at all interested in historical buildings,you might consider the Merchant Adventurers Hall. I spent a good bit longer than expected there because it is a great building. Also, Fairfax House is wonderful if you are interested in antiques, decorative arts as well as architectural history.

To refresh yourself after your city walks, I recommend Betty's in St. Helen's Square for yummy meals (wonderful rosti) and sweets (fat rascals) as well as great people watching. You said you were traveling alone, it's a comfortable place to eat solo and I've never felt rushed.

Also, the small tea room on the upper floor of Mulberry Hall, the china merchant on Stonegate does good tea, snacks and ice cream. You can watch the action on the street below yet have a nice peaceful break. There is also a nice little cafeteria at St. Williams College next to the Minster, especially if the weather is sunny, as you can eat outside in the courtyard.

I hope you enjoy your stay in York and perhaps you can report back with your special places and discoveries when you return.

Jan

Guy18

Jan--Thanks! Really excellent information. I'm printing your post and bringing it with...I have several months to have my mouth water over this trip. But look for my report in June!