My grandfather fought on the battlefields close to Ypres in WW1 and for a number of years I had wanted to travel to those battlefields of Flanders and combine the trip with a visit to Bruges. This month during another visit to Scotland we had the opportunity to do just that.

We flew easyJet from Glasgow to Amsterdam arriving there a little after 12 noon. I already knew there was a train from Schiphol to Bruges at 12.40 but we opted for the 13.40 service to allow us to have some lunch at the airport. After coming through Arrivals we easily found the ticket office for the train journey. The cost for a one-way trip was 39 EUR 2nd class and 55 EUR 1st class. After lunch we headed down to the platform (almost from the restaurant on the main concourse!) and the train from Amsterdam Central departed Schiphol right on time.

The journey was a very pleasant one and it took just over three hours. During the trip we passed a few of the bulb fields and the colours were dazzling. The route was Dan Haag, Rotterdam, Dordrecht, Roosendal and Antwerp Bercham. Here we changed to the Belgium Rail service for the direct trip to Bruges. The transfer time was 15 minutes. The remainder of the journey took a little over an hour and we arrived at 5pm.

We had reserved a room 3 months ago at the Novotel (70 euros per night for a double without breakfast (an additional 15 euro if required)). We had already decided to walk to the hotel, which was located on Katelijnestraat. Its location was perfect for us as it was only minutes from the major attractions such as the Begijnof and Market Square. We enjoyed this hotel and found the bedroom large, with A/C and mini bar. Also, it is worth mentioning that the staff was very friendly and helped us with our enquiries, always with a smile.

A short time ago a regular here helpfully mentioned that ATM’s were scarce and not all accepted Visa/MasterCard/Inter Bank cards. This was great information and so true. If it is any help I did find two machines that accepted all cards at a bank branch located on the square called Simon Stevinplein. This is only a three or four minute walk from Market Square. Find Pizza Hut and you’ve found that bank! They are neighbours.

Bruges - a trip report Part 2

On our first full day in this beautiful town we visited the major attractions that had appealed to us during our preparation for the trip. We started the day at the Onze Lieve Vrouwekerk and St Salvators Kathedraal churches, and then traced our steps back to Gruuthuse Museum (6 euro). From here we walked through a beautiful little courtyard out onto Dijvet and strolled along the canal-side to Wolfestraat and on to Market Square and Provinciaal Hof. We enjoyed this area very much and spent time relaxing here before continuing our travels.

In the afternoon we walked from Market Square along Noordzandstraat to t’Zand Square where the Concertgebouw is located and then to St Jons Hospital and ending at Beginhof and Minnewater. I think this was our favourite part of the town. Lots of horses and carriages (30 EUR for the tour), swans in the pond and all surrounded by those amazing buildings. At times it felt that we had been transported back to medieval times.

We ended our first day by talking a canal tour that lasted 30 minutes and cost only 5 EUR. I thoroughly recommend this as it gave us so much enjoyment and let us see the buildings, churches and their steeples from a different perspective. The canal boat guide gave the commentary in both English and French.

On our second day our guide for the Flanders Fields tour picked us up at the hotel. This was arranged months before with http://www.visitbruges.com/ and cost 59 EUR per person. It was by mini-bus and there were two others on the tour. It rained heavily throughout the day and the temperature plummeted but it didn’t matter. In a strange way it almost added to the day. We started our trip by visiting Langemark (the German war cemetery) and carried on to Tyne Cot (Passendale), Ypres and the Menin Gate, Mount Kemmel, Poperinge and the day ended at the WW1 death trenches at Diksmuide. This was an excellent tour and Frank the guide was superb. A very pleasant lunch, drinks (and umbrellas!) were included in the cost of the tour. If anyone would like more detailed information please let me know. It was the reason I visited Bruges and every minute of it was worthwhile.

Bruges - a trip report Part 3

Our third day was spent retracing our steps taken two days before. By Thursday the sun had appeared and we had the chance to get some photographs in a better light. Late in the afternoon we visited the Bruges Archaeological Museum (2 EUR), which was interesting.

On Friday we caught the 11.00 train back to Amsterdam (again, no reservation required) and checked into the Airport Sheraton (120 EUR) just after 2pm. There is a walkway from the airport terminal to the hotel. In the early evening we travelled into Amsterdam for dinner (15 mins by train – 3 EUR each way). The city was cold, wet and strangely unwelcoming - something I had not felt on a previous visit. Not so sure why but it may have to do with the large number of young men, drunk and a little out of control most of whom seemed to be celebrating someone’s up and coming wedding. We travelled back to the hotel early and sat watching from our bedroom window the planes take off and land. Sad, I know but with whisky glasses in our hands and feeling warm for the first time that evening it was good!

The easyJet flight back to Glasgow left on time the following morning and we were there in time for lunch.

We very much enjoyed our short trip. Bruges is a beautiful town and I know we will return again one day. It is unique. Any place that bans TV aerials and satellite dishes from rooftops gets my vote.

Without exception we found all the people we were in contact with to be very friendly and helpful.

Also, we were impressed at the prices we found. Much cheaper than some other European countries we have visited recently.

We ate economically. One café/bar that twice served us a great dinner and I am happy to recommend is ‘t Sant-poortje on the square at t’Zand (opposite the Concertgebouw). We paid only 14 EUR each for two courses plus coffee. The service was fast, the food great and the hosts Bart and Sophie, very welcoming.

Hope this has helped anyone thinking of visiting the town. Happy to answer any questions.

great report joe4212,

I was looking at trying to train down to Ypres and then get out to the cemetaries but this tour sounds so much better and likely cheaper. Please let me know what the tour was called and how I can get in touch with them.
Did you see any Canadian cemetaries?
regardless, I really want to show my daughter (and see for myself) the area that is mentioned in that famous (Canadian) poem: "In Flander's Fields"

If it helps you can email me at bowen(at)shaw.ca (replace the (at) with @)

joe4212, it's always so nice to hear that someone else likes Bruges. My wife and I were quite enchanted by the city.

The visit to the Grear War battlefields must have been very emotional.

Ah yes, the lager louts visit Amsterdam ... it can get very loud late at night on Fridays and Saturdays. They even drown out the sounds of the motor bikes and tram cars.

Anselm

I couldn't get the link to work for the tour. Figured out there was a missing dash. the correct address is http://www.visit-bruges.com/

And, to save others my frustrated surfing, here is the actual tour company's link: http://www.quasimodo.be/
I'm in!

Hi westcanuck.

The tour address is definitely http://www.visitbruges.com/ (without the dash).

The opening page I am looking at now is headed up Daytours. On the left hand side the one we took is the link called Flanders Fields Tour although he does of others in a similar vein e.g. Menin Gate. Last Post Tour etc.

The guide, Frank, was excellent. He told us he was born and bred in Bruges and doing this tour for a number of years.

He actually offered to take anyone of us to a particular spot that maybe meant something personal e.g. a particular area or battlefield.

We didn't see any Canadian cemeteries but I am sure the guide would take you to them. We did see the American cemetery though which was very well maintained.

The German cemetery was the bleakest I have to say as they do not have individual headstones for their deceased. All are buried in mass graves. 44,000 in total. There is a small plaque on the wall there set up for two British soldiers found to have been buried with the those 44000 by mistake. If I recall correctly there were also two German troops buried amongst the 12,000 British at Tyne Cot.

One thing that did surprise me was the very large number of cemetaries throughout the area. All beautifully kept. It felt there was hardly a country road we drove down that didnt have a small military cemetary or demarcation marker.

Anselm, it was the first time I'd ever felt like that in Amsterdam. It was busy and noisy and seemed to have too many visiting lads who were past the 'happy' stage of drinking. Ah well, I suppose when I was younger..........

westcanuck, the address you've just posted is another tour company. We saw their minibus at the sites we visited. I am sure they will offer the same services though. I remember checking them out but took the one that had lunch included.

West- Thanks for the report. I am going to Bruges for the first time in May. I will be alone for this part of my European travels.

I was planning to walk from the train station to my hotel, near the Markt. Is this do-able? I am in good shape and will have very little luggage.

Is the Flanders Field tour all day long? I will have one afternoon and one full day in Bruges (sleeping there 2 nights.)

Funny, I can't get http://www.visitbruges.com/ to display. Anyway, I'll keep trying. The Quasimodo tour is about 11 euro cheaper and it says they supply a free picnic lunch. And it also says the guide was "awarded 2nd prize in '92 for his initiative in promoting tourism in Flanders". They also take special requests including visiting relative's graves.
Whatever tour I take, I thank you for alerting me to the possibilities!

hi vivi

The walk to the Novotel took us 10 minutes from the station at a gentle stroll. The Market from the hotel is about another 8 mins. Oh and it's flat all the way so there's no hills to climb with luggage!

Our route to the hotel took us through some of the great parts of the town and it was a nice introduction to what was ahead for us on the trip.

The tour minibus collected us from the hotel at 8.45 and returned us there at 5.15pm

If you can get his website to work (or check out the one westcanuck posted) you'll see the other tours offered by them includes an evening trip to the Menin Gate for the evening ceremony.

Joe

westcanuck, you have mail.

ttt

Joe

Thank you for this trip report. I too had close relative who fought at Ypres and for many years I've also thought about visiting those battlefields.

I am impressed how easy it all seemed to get there from Glasgow, my home town. Also, I like the added bonus of staying in Bruges for a few days.

It's time for me to check out easyJet prices for the route I think.

Thanks again,

Bill

joe4212,

Thanks for your interesting report. We were thinking of an October trip to Amsterdam-Bruge-Paris. Would you know how long by train it would take from Bruge to Paris?

Anthony

Belgium in general has always called me (my heart) ... its on my "short list". Brussels would, of course, be a very sophisticated city - lots of business Euro types
But Bruges? Your report makes it sound like a place from which I could learn.

Anthony

Check out the Belgian National Railway site for timetables.

Bruges to Brussels is about 55 minutes and Brussels to Paris is showing as 1 hour 25 minutes.

<b>joe4212</b> -

I quite enjoyed your trip report. Having travelled to Brugges 2 years ago, I recognized many of the places you wrote about. For a few minutes, while reading your report, it felt like I was in Brugges again (if only in my mind).

<b>vivi</b> - The hike from the train station to the Markt is a pretty good one, especially with luggage. There is a bus you can take from the station right to the Markt which only costs a Euro or two. We arrived in Brugge late in the evening and opted to take a taxi, which cost EUR10.

Peace, Robyn &gt;-

Joe, Did you have any of that famous Belgian chocolate while in Bruges? How about beer? Any recommendations? My husband and I are planning to day trip to Bruges after we go to Amsterdam. Thanks.