The daily unloading of the catch at Bonanza, just north of Sanlucar de Barrameda, remains one of my favorite afternoons in Spain. I've never seen it mentioned on the board so thought I would throw it out there.

Bonanza is really a suburb of Sanlucar de Barrameda which is about 60 miles sw of Sevilla on the Guadalqivir. It is one of the largest fishing ports in Spain. Every day from about 3-5 pm some 40-50 boats, ranging from 25' to 50' arrive to unload their catch at a dock that is probably no longer than 300'. It's bumper cars with boats and adult language. Much ramming, shoving, and pushing. They are under pressure to get the catch unloaded into the covered area next to the dock and have it auctioned off. The catch is laid out in flat wooden trays with great emphasis on appearance. The variety of seafood and the artful dispay in the trays is amazing. The auctioneer moves through the hall going from catch to catch with bidding by markets, restaurants, and individuals. Each tray is auctioned off in about 30 seconds. It is really a fun way to spend 2-3 hours.

As always it's the players who make it come alive. Crusty, profane, and dog-tired from a couple of days at sea with probably no sleep, there are more than enough character actors to make 100 pirate movies.

As an aside, the following day I was back in Sevilla and ate a great small seafood place called Las Monedas. I mentioned to the waiter that I had been to Bonanza the day before. Seems the owner/chef was originally from Bonanza. My meal was free.

It's a bit out of the way, and doesn't seem to be well-known, but if you are in the area it is an event not to be missed. "Real" life.

Thanks for posting. Sounds like a fun addition to anyone's trip that way.

A reminder to all that the "lonja" at the ports across Spain, large and small, will have these fish auctions.

It is actually one of the pleasant things to do on those "do nothing" vacations at a beach that has a nearby port!

You have described it perfectly, as many have never been that close to the men who spend the night out trying to put food on the table for their families.

Tough life, and it is reflected in their creased faces and scratched hands.

There is usually a gruffy bar very near La Lonja where you can get incredibly fresh tapas.

Your post comes at a great time! I'm spending a night in Sanlucar the end of this month. I've always wanted to see this unloading of the catch in Bonanza and since I'm spending the night I'll have time. (Usually I visit as a daytrip from Cadiz).

How far is the actual Bonanza docks from Sanlucar? Could I walk or would I need to take a city bus/taxi? Is it in a specific area of Bonanza or is it hard to miss once I make it to the water .

thank you again - this is great!

CathM: The dock is maybe 5 miles or so from downtown Sanlucar. I went by car but I am sure there is a bus that goes that way or a taxi wouldn't be that expensive. I can't help with exact location other than to say I had no trouble finding it. Enjoy.

So, since the expression "bonanza" in english can mean "
big win" or large haul, does this expression come from this
town?

CathyM. Trade info with me: I have not made it to Cadiz because I normally have a car and have heard driving and parking is really tough. Want to go - have seen their satirical Carnival parades on Spanish tv and it looks like it would be a ball. What part of town do you stay in? What about short day trips from Cadiz? Is bus the smart way to do it? Thanks.

I always stay in the old town of Cadiz. It's very atmospheric and although the beaches are supposedly not as nice as in the newer section I'm not the kind to just lie on the beach all day anyways. The old town is surounded by water and has a faded (aka little "crumbly") charm. For people who have to check-off tourist sites it may not be their place. This is a great city to wander around, relax and just enjoy - also great food and friendly people.

Currently my preferred place to stay is the Hotel Las Cortes de Cadiz, http://www.hotellascortes.com/. It's on Calle San Francisco - very central and busy street. I would specifically request a room overlooking the street (I've never had an issue with noise) as they have balconies and exterior windows. The interior rooms only have a large window above the door so it's very claustrophic.

However, for my upcoming trip I'm checking out the Hotel Argantonio, http://www.hotelargantonio.com/espan...-en-cadiz.html I checked out the exterior and lobby on my last trip and it looks quite nice. It's only a couple of blocks from the Hotel las Cortez. It's also #1 on TripAdvisor.

Other hotels I've stayed in:

Hotel Spa Senator
http://www.hotelspasenatorcadiz.com/
It's more business-like and sterile - just doesn't have the charm of the 2 above (IMHO). However it is a nice hotel and very well located. It also has a pool and more amenities than the 2 above.

Parador
http://www.parador.es/es/tratarFicha...do?parador=020
This is a modern parador on the beach. Rooms are large. However, I prefer the location and charm of the others - it's about 15 minutes to walk to the old town which isn't bad. If you prefer to be on the beach this is a good choice.

I've arrived by bus and train depending on where I originated. With the exception of the parador it's an easy walk even with alot of luggage (my problem) to the hotels from the train or bus stations. Bus station is closer though.

For daytrips there are a wide range of possibilities - one of the reasons why I like to base myself in Cadiz when I'm relying in public transportation:

Arcos (bus) - 8/day (3 on weekends)
Jerez (bus or train) - very frequent
Medina Sidonia (bus) - 6/day (3-4 on weekends)
El Puerto de Santa Maria (bus, train or ferry) - frequent
Sanlucar (bus) - frequent
Vejer de la Frontera (bus) - 6 per day
Sevilla (although I wouldn't do as a daytrip) is 2 hours away with frequent bus or train.

The tourist office can provide you with a list of all the bus and train schedules.

As for parking in Cadiz, I did have a car for one trip and we didn't have an issue parking. We parked in the underground lot in front of the port at the entrance to the old town. It wasn't a problem - but it was expensive. Street parking did appear to be tough.

I've never been for Carnival but I'm sure it would be a great time.

Great information..many thanks! Cadiz is on my list for the future and it is good to know that the city can be a convenient base for daytrips..

I spent only one night in Sanlucar and wish I had known about Bonanza beforehand!

We did like this hotel, if anyone is looking for a place to stay:

http://www.hotelloshelechos.com/index.htm

Kathy - super Cadiz info.. Got it in my file. ekscrunchy: Super report on Pais Vasco and the Dordogne. However, you must weigh 1000 pounds - a true gourmand and shopper. I agree re San Sebastian. Spent 3 weeks there last year living in the Parte Viejo. Didn't lose any weight!

There are small fishing villages in Galicia where there are auctions but smaller than the one you described.

Adu - in some ways those are almost more fun - small, not so rushed, and you can easily find out which restaurant is buying and that night eat what you saw being auctioned. My impression is that Galicia and much of the north coast has many more such ports and auctions while those in the south are larger and more frantic. I presume it is a function of geography.

This sounds fantastic. Thanks for posting. This is the kind of information that makes this site so valuable.

Weber

I will ask the family where they have taken us. I beleive they like to go near Malpica. There are a number of small ports in Galicia. We were there once shortly after the oil tanker Prestige sank and the fishing was terrible.

Here are some towns in Galicia where you can fresh fish and octopus:

At the Costa da Morte (or Coast of Death): Malpica, Corme, Camelle, Camariñas

And in las Rías Medias: Muros.

bookmarking

AduChamp: You left out my favorite (not an auction, but a fresh fish Market). It's in Vigo (Pontevedra, Rias Bajas) at the foot of La Pedra and across from the Port of Vigo.

I have also been to Subastas (auctions) in Campello (Alicante, Costa Blanca) and in Santander (Cantabria, Mar Cantabrico).

Like you, I prefer the Fish & Seafood from Cold waters.

One time we drove to Malpica and the family bought about 30 kilos of pulpo and I put in the trunk of our rental car. All the bags broke and the octupi were all over the place. When we brought back the rental, we left the facility as soon as possible before the smell escaped from the rrunk.

The family uses an old outdoor stone basin where they use to wash their clothes to clean the pulpo, including the ink sacs.

Adu what a story!

Weber, can you please clarify what time in Bonanza for the unloading?

Amsdaon;

I starts about three in the afternoon and runs for a couple of hours.