bfrac & friends–a parade float in Roma/an angel in Orvieto on the first day
Nov 25th, 2009, 06:18 AM
#81
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TDudette, the wine is pricey but so worth it! Actually, I paid 33 euro for a bottle of Brunello and the Brunello grappa, which isn't too bad compared to what the price would be in the States. Thanks for still reading.
Apr 18th, 2010, 04:45 AM
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Sorry I am just getting back to this trip report; is anyone still interested in reading about the rest of the trip? Life and work got in the way for a few months and I have been away from Fodors. But things are better now and there is plenty more to tell.
Apr 18th, 2010, 01:40 PM
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Absolutely, do finish it! I'm on the trip with you. I don't remember having parking problems when we went to Montalcino, I just remember driving up a hill and parking along a stone wall with an incredible view, and then just walking in through the town walls. is my memory wrong?
Apr 18th, 2010, 04:42 PM
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Hagan, parking wasn't really a problem. But if we had followed Stu's directions exactly we would have parked at the fort and avoided all those steps. Next time I will do that, but you can imagine how reluctant we were to have another experience like we had trying to find the hotel in Orvieto.
Apr 21st, 2010, 06:31 PM
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<b> Arezzo is La Vita e’Bella </b>
I apologize for dropping this trip report for so long; things happened… life and making a living really got in the way. I wasn’t even reading the forums until last week. I missed it, but now I am back and hope to make up for lost time. I can’t believe it is 6 months ago today that I am sitting down to write about now. Being away from the forum for so long has helped me not think about Italy but now that I’m back the yearning to return is as strong as ever. So, on with the story…
Wednesday, October 21 – this morning is rainy and windy. The three of us get up and it is so cold we pull the comforters off our beds and huddle on the couch together to get warm until the radiators come on and start warming the apartment. It’s not so bad, really, because our couch faces French doors that look out beyond the white road and cypress trees to Chiusi on the hilltop in the distance. A picture perfect view.
Today’s plan: Julian is taking us to Arezzo. P decides not to go today for a couple of reasons: 1. She and I have a big day planned for tomorrow and she wants to save herself for it. (I’m not saying now, you will have to wait and read the installment for tomorrow.) 2. Since it is so damp, her arthritis is bothering her. 3. She and Jo are going to play in the studio all by themselves and have a good time.
After breakfast we load into the Land Rover with Julian as our trusty guide and off we go to Arezzo. It is quite nice to have someone else at the wheel and to sit back and relax. I think it took about an hour to get there.
When we arrived, of course, first things first, we went to a bar for caffe and pastries while Julian secured our tickets for the Chiesa of San Francesco and entrance to the choir to view the Piero frescoes.
Back to the bar for a moment – in the front corner by the windows were 4 white haired gentlemen that looked like they were fixtures in the place. They were chatting and probably saying the same things they said every morning to each other, but it made me stop and think how different our lives are. They take the time for each other (and themselves) every day, and how often do we do that for ourselves? They really do live la vita e bella.
Which leads me to another sidebar. One of my all time favorite movies is La Vita e Bella, so how could I not know that the beginning was filmed here? Imagine my surprise when I saw the posters plastered all over town.
Back to Piero now and the reason we are here. The façade of the church is so plain but it makes sense once you see what is inside, anything ornate would somehow be an injustice to what is inside. Julian has brought us here to see the famous fresco cycle by Piero della Francesca, The Legend of the True Cross. This is truly magnificent and I am awed by the story the frescoes tell. And Julian’s telling of the story is magical; I wish I had recorded it. This is a link that will show a nice view of the chapel and tell the story of the frescoes http://www.wga.hu/tours/arezzo/index.html.
We spent quite a lot of time here and then when they politely let us know our time was up we went off on our own to explore around town a bit and Julian went ahead of us to the restaurant to secure a table for us for lunch.
We did some window shopping but I was looking for the small shop of Farmacia di Santa Maria Novella. We found it but it was closed for now so we made our way back to the restaurant to meet the others. Today’s lunch was at Antica Osteria l’Agania www.agania.com. It was pretty good. Most of us had wine, beer, pasta, pizza, and of course dessert. Yummy panna cotta and B had crostata that was the special dessert of the day. Our server was a delight and did not speak a bit of English.
Next on the agenda was the Duomo but we had some time before it opened again so we made our way along a narrow little alley that opened up onto the Piazza Grande. Wow. That is a very cool piazza the way it slopes. I would not want to be standing on the low end when it rains. The brick paving had been re-laid in a herringbone pattern and I couldn’t help but think that Giacomo could have done that and would have kept us in Italy for a verrrrry looonnngggg time.
Santa Maria della Pieve is on the piazza and the columns are very unusual. One has a bump out in it like someone’s backside sitting down and the top bit on each one is different. Some of them have scary faces, goat faces, ornate curlicues.
Around the corner at the other end of the piazza (still on the low side) was the storefront from the movie that was the bookshop. I had to have a picture of that.
Back to the piazza and walk through the Vasari loggia. I love architecture and this was right up my alley. How I would love to have a table here to enjoy a summer evening watching the crowd in the piazza. Or attend one of the famous antique markets. The Duomo still wasn’t open so we went to the Basilica di San Domenico of which the interior was completely covered in scaffolding and drop cloths but the Cimabue crucifix was on view in all its glory.
Finally the Duomo opened so we could see another fresco by Piero, this one of Mary Magdalene. It was so simple, yet so modern for its time. The exterior stone was a yellowish, sand color; quite different from other churches.
As we made our way back around and along the other side of Santa Maria della Pieve the exterior wall on this side was covered in columns of varying sizes, styles, diameters, designs, etc. B and I figured it must have been like a sample showroom and the stonecutters brought their clients to view the columns and pick out what kind they wanted for their palazzo.
At this point we all went in different directions and planned to meet back at the same bar in a little while. B and I went back to Farmacia SMN and had a little shopping spree and then found a bancomat to replenish. Good thing we did too because when we got to the bar we decided to each have a coke and they were 4 euro a piece.
More later to wrap up the evening.
<b>No, we aren’t having rabbit for dinner
I apologize for dropping this trip report for so long; things happened… life and making a living really got in the way. I wasn’t even reading the forums until last week. I missed it, but now I am back and hope to make up for lost time. I can’t believe it is 6 months ago today that I am sitting down to write about now. Being away from the forum for so long has helped me not think about Italy but now that I’m back the yearning to return is as strong as ever. So, on with the story…
Wednesday, October 21 – this morning is rainy and windy. The three of us get up and it is so cold we pull the comforters off our beds and huddle on the couch together to get warm until the radiators come on and start warming the apartment. It’s not so bad, really, because our couch faces French doors that look out beyond the white road and cypress trees to Chiusi on the hilltop in the distance. A picture perfect view.
Today’s plan: Julian is taking us to Arezzo. P decides not to go today for a couple of reasons: 1. She and I have a big day planned for tomorrow and she wants to save herself for it. (I’m not saying now, you will have to wait and read the installment for tomorrow.) 2. Since it is so damp, her arthritis is bothering her. 3. She and Jo are going to play in the studio all by themselves and have a good time.
After breakfast we load into the Land Rover with Julian as our trusty guide and off we go to Arezzo. It is quite nice to have someone else at the wheel and to sit back and relax. I think it took about an hour to get there.
When we arrived, of course, first things first, we went to a bar for caffe and pastries while Julian secured our tickets for the Chiesa of San Francesco and entrance to the choir to view the Piero frescoes.
Back to the bar for a moment – in the front corner by the windows were 4 white haired gentlemen that looked like they were fixtures in the place. They were chatting and probably saying the same things they said every morning to each other, but it made me stop and think how different our lives are. They take the time for each other (and themselves) every day, and how often do we do that for ourselves? They really do live la vita e bella.
Which leads me to another sidebar. One of my all time favorite movies is La Vita e Bella, so how could I not know that the beginning was filmed here? Imagine my surprise when I saw the posters plastered all over town.
Back to Piero now and the reason we are here. The façade of the church is so plain but it makes sense once you see what is inside, anything ornate would somehow be an injustice to what is inside. Julian has brought us here to see the famous fresco cycle by Piero della Francesca, The Legend of the True Cross. This is truly magnificent and I am awed by the story the frescoes tell. And Julian’s telling of the story is magical; I wish I had recorded it. This is a link that will show a nice view of the chapel and tell the story of the frescoes http://www.wga.hu/tours/arezzo/index.html.
We spent quite a lot of time here and then when they politely let us know our time was up we went off on our own to explore around town a bit and Julian went ahead of us to the restaurant to secure a table for us for lunch.
We did some window shopping but I was looking for the small shop of Farmacia di Santa Maria Novella. We found it but it was closed for now so we made our way back to the restaurant to meet the others. Today’s lunch was at Antica Osteria l’Agania www.agania.com. It was pretty good. Most of us had wine, beer, pasta, pizza, and of course dessert. Yummy panna cotta and B had crostata that was the special dessert of the day. Our server was a delight and did not speak a bit of English.
Next on the agenda was the Duomo but we had some time before it opened again so we made our way along a narrow little alley that opened up onto the Piazza Grande. Wow. That is a very cool piazza the way it slopes. I would not want to be standing on the low end when it rains. The brick paving had been re-laid in a herringbone pattern and I couldn’t help but think that Giacomo could have done that and would have kept us in Italy for a verrrrry looonnngggg time.
Santa Maria della Pieve is on the piazza and the columns are very unusual. One has a bump out in it like someone’s backside sitting down and the top bit on each one is different. Some of them have scary faces, goat faces, ornate curlicues.
Around the corner at the other end of the piazza (still on the low side) was the storefront from the movie that was the bookshop. I had to have a picture of that.
Back to the piazza and walk through the Vasari loggia. I love architecture and this was right up my alley. How I would love to have a table here to enjoy a summer evening watching the crowd in the piazza. Or attend one of the famous antique markets. The Duomo still wasn’t open so we went to the Basilica di San Domenico of which the interior was completely covered in scaffolding and drop cloths but the Cimabue crucifix was on view in all its glory.
Finally the Duomo opened so we could see another fresco by Piero, this one of Mary Magdalene. It was so simple, yet so modern for its time. The exterior stone was a yellowish, sand color; quite different from other churches.
As we made our way back around and along the other side of Santa Maria della Pieve the exterior wall on this side was covered in columns of varying sizes, styles, diameters, designs, etc. B and I figured it must have been like a sample showroom and the stonecutters brought their clients to view the columns and pick out what kind they wanted for their palazzo.
At this point we all went in different directions and planned to meet back at the same bar in a little while. B and I went back to Farmacia SMN and had a little shopping spree and then found a bancomat to replenish. Good thing we did too because when we got to the bar we decided to each have a coke and they were 4 euro a piece.
More later to wrap up the evening.
<b>No, we aren’t having rabbit for dinner
Sep 12th, 2010, 11:38 AM
#90
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Hi everyone, I’m back to the report again. I am sorry for having dropped it for so long, but again, work and life kept me from Fodor’s and finishing and I hate not to finish something. Suja encouraged me to continue so here goes…
<b>No, we aren’t having rabbit for dinner<b/>
I’m not sure if I should even tell this story because it might offend some people and I assure you that myself and friends are animal lovers. We have eight cats and five dogs between us but we also have warped senses of humor.
We are all sitting outside by the heater enjoying our drinks and people watching. Julian said he would find us (trusting,aren’t we?). I’m sure he needed a break from us and went off to find some men to talk to. He was the only man in the house this week with all of our group being women and of course his wife and daughters.
But, he did come back for us and we set off for home. Lively conversation on the way and lots of joking sets the stage for what ensues. His telefonino rings and we all quiet down to be polite but, of course, we can’t help but hear his side of the conversation with his daughter. Sadly, she is calling her Daddy because when she returned from school this afternoon she found her pet rabbit had died and called to tell him. He must return in time for the funeral and burial. Oh dear, that is so hard on a child.
He rings off and then begins to recite all he has to do before dinner, including going to the Coop to shop for his wife for supplies she needs. He will drop us off and then head back into town, do the shopping, back home, bury the rabbit, help Amanda with dinner and then serve it.
Wait a minute! We want to go to the Coop with you. It will save you time and we can do our important Illy and chocolate shopping. Also, we need more water for the car. I just love grocery shopping in Italy; everything is so fresh and even the take away foods look so yummy. B buys a small container of laundry detergent so when she washes her sheets at home they will smell like Italy. How cool is that? Sweet dreams for sure. Missions accomplished and we are back in the car and the lively, joking mood has returned. By the way, did you buy anything for our dinner or are we having rabbit stew? <No/> we are not having rabbit stew.
By the way, dinner that night was a mouthwatering lasagna that I can still taste to this day. It didn’t look anything at all like rabbit.
<b>Next up: “Don’t cry Nonna, it will be okay.”<b/>
<b>No, we aren’t having rabbit for dinner<b/>
I’m not sure if I should even tell this story because it might offend some people and I assure you that myself and friends are animal lovers. We have eight cats and five dogs between us but we also have warped senses of humor.
We are all sitting outside by the heater enjoying our drinks and people watching. Julian said he would find us (trusting,aren’t we?). I’m sure he needed a break from us and went off to find some men to talk to. He was the only man in the house this week with all of our group being women and of course his wife and daughters.
But, he did come back for us and we set off for home. Lively conversation on the way and lots of joking sets the stage for what ensues. His telefonino rings and we all quiet down to be polite but, of course, we can’t help but hear his side of the conversation with his daughter. Sadly, she is calling her Daddy because when she returned from school this afternoon she found her pet rabbit had died and called to tell him. He must return in time for the funeral and burial. Oh dear, that is so hard on a child.
He rings off and then begins to recite all he has to do before dinner, including going to the Coop to shop for his wife for supplies she needs. He will drop us off and then head back into town, do the shopping, back home, bury the rabbit, help Amanda with dinner and then serve it.
Wait a minute! We want to go to the Coop with you. It will save you time and we can do our important Illy and chocolate shopping. Also, we need more water for the car. I just love grocery shopping in Italy; everything is so fresh and even the take away foods look so yummy. B buys a small container of laundry detergent so when she washes her sheets at home they will smell like Italy. How cool is that? Sweet dreams for sure. Missions accomplished and we are back in the car and the lively, joking mood has returned. By the way, did you buy anything for our dinner or are we having rabbit stew? <No/> we are not having rabbit stew.
By the way, dinner that night was a mouthwatering lasagna that I can still taste to this day. It didn’t look anything at all like rabbit.
<b>Next up: “Don’t cry Nonna, it will be okay.”<b/>
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