bfrac & friends–a parade float in Roma/an angel in Orvieto on the first day
Nov 11th, 2009, 03:50 PM
#41
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<b> Day two, what time is it? pizza and wine for breakfast </b>
By the way, we did call our husbands before we went to dinner the night before to assure them that we were in our hotel and safe and happy. We called Professoressa too, to assure her we were fine and to thank her for giving support to Giacomo. She said once he told her we were lost in Orvieto, she knew we would be okay because it isn’t that big and we could walk if we had to.
Hotel Palazzo Piccolomini is a gem and we just loved it. We had the triple room, which consisted of one bedroom with two beds and then a few steps down was another room like a little cave or monks cell with a single bed. Also, a very nice bathroom with shower and all the nice amenities you could want, even slippers.
So, Saturday, October 17 dawns and we miss the dawn. We miss breakfast too. I awake to hear P and B discussing what the time might be and we realize it is 10:38 am. Darn, we missed breakfast. How did that happen? And we were going to miss the 11:00 am underground tour, too, but after yesterday I guess we deserved a good sleep. So while I am showering B goes in search of a bancomat and comes back to tell me she found a store named after me! We all set off to explore Orvieto and take pictures of me under the sign of Laboratorio Artigiana di Betta. Unfortunately, it was closed and I couldn’t buy anything.
P and B had been in Orvieto about a year and a half ago so they knew their way around. We wandered the streets just enjoying being there, taking lots of photos, on the lookout for breakfast and found L’Antica Piazetta. It looked as good as any so we went in and ordered a pizza each (two margharitas and a white) and a carafe of the house red which tasted like vinegar but improved the longer we sat there; it sure wasn’t Sagrantino. This is truly the breakfast of champions, the heck with Wheaties. The waiter wasn’t much fun but the owner started making the rounds and serving and he was much more personable. We also had a panna cotta, tiramisu, and the house crème caramel that were all excellent. I don’t have the receipt for this one because we paid cash.
Onward we go to the Duomo. What can I say, it is spectacular and one of my dreams come true. To see the beauty of the Duomo against the bluest of skies is breathtaking. I can’t believe the detail of the stonework and mosaics on the outside and inside my jaw drops. I love the contrast of the black and white stone and the timber roof is unlike any other cathedral I have been in. Photographs can’t begin to capture it; it is something that must be experienced and burned into your soul.
We meet up in the Cappella del Corporale and find P sitting and crying. “Oh dear P, what is wrong?” “It is so beautiful” she replies, “I can’t believe I didn’t come inside last time.” And I will let P chime in and finish the rest of the story if she so chooses.
We continue on beyond the Duomo to a scenic overlook and then I go back to the Duomo to just sit a bit on the steps and savor the moment because our time here is so short. P and B catch up and all too soon we have to go back to the hotel and check out for the next stage of our journey.
Jude brings the green car back and exiting Orvieto is easy as pie. The street right next to the hotel has a sign for the A1 and we are on the main road in minutes and down the hill we go. We are to meet our host for the next week by 4:30-5:00 in Moiano, a little town outside of Chiusi, but in Umbria. He advised us to get there before dark and it was good advice.
When we arrive in Moiano we call Julian and tell him we are at the Total gas station, he can’t miss us. Of course, he is laughing as he pulls up next to the Qubo. We follow him through town and onto the white roads, up and down, and turning and I wonder if I will ever be able to find my way in and out of here, certainly never in the dark.
We arrive at his charming country house and are greeted by Tufo, the truffle hound. Our apartment is beyond our expectations. We have two bedrooms, two bathrooms, a huge living room and eat in kitchen. You can see it on their website www.artistinitaly.com; it is the apartment with the brick arch. Our view is of the hills covered with olive trees and Chiusi in the distance.
Dinner is served in the studio and we arrive for drinks and to meet the rest of the group. We actually couldn’t have picked a better group to be with. Two women, Jo and El were friends traveling together from New York City and the other woman was Ja from Lewes, De. So we are all from the same region and relatively close in age; it promises to be a great week.
Amanda, Julian’s wife is a fantastic cook and tonight serves us bruschetta with three different toppings, rocket, pasta with pesto sauce and gelato for dessert. Included every night is limitless red wine which Julian said is a local rosso that he takes his bottles and has refilled. It was quite good. There is also a white but I never had any of it. I’m a red girl all the way.
This has been a perfect day and we toddle off to bed.
Hopefully this installment wasn’t too boring after our adventurous first day…
<b>Tomorrow Jo and I venture out to conquer some hills and hopefully find our way back…</b>
By the way, we did call our husbands before we went to dinner the night before to assure them that we were in our hotel and safe and happy. We called Professoressa too, to assure her we were fine and to thank her for giving support to Giacomo. She said once he told her we were lost in Orvieto, she knew we would be okay because it isn’t that big and we could walk if we had to.
Hotel Palazzo Piccolomini is a gem and we just loved it. We had the triple room, which consisted of one bedroom with two beds and then a few steps down was another room like a little cave or monks cell with a single bed. Also, a very nice bathroom with shower and all the nice amenities you could want, even slippers.
So, Saturday, October 17 dawns and we miss the dawn. We miss breakfast too. I awake to hear P and B discussing what the time might be and we realize it is 10:38 am. Darn, we missed breakfast. How did that happen? And we were going to miss the 11:00 am underground tour, too, but after yesterday I guess we deserved a good sleep. So while I am showering B goes in search of a bancomat and comes back to tell me she found a store named after me! We all set off to explore Orvieto and take pictures of me under the sign of Laboratorio Artigiana di Betta. Unfortunately, it was closed and I couldn’t buy anything.
P and B had been in Orvieto about a year and a half ago so they knew their way around. We wandered the streets just enjoying being there, taking lots of photos, on the lookout for breakfast and found L’Antica Piazetta. It looked as good as any so we went in and ordered a pizza each (two margharitas and a white) and a carafe of the house red which tasted like vinegar but improved the longer we sat there; it sure wasn’t Sagrantino. This is truly the breakfast of champions, the heck with Wheaties. The waiter wasn’t much fun but the owner started making the rounds and serving and he was much more personable. We also had a panna cotta, tiramisu, and the house crème caramel that were all excellent. I don’t have the receipt for this one because we paid cash.
Onward we go to the Duomo. What can I say, it is spectacular and one of my dreams come true. To see the beauty of the Duomo against the bluest of skies is breathtaking. I can’t believe the detail of the stonework and mosaics on the outside and inside my jaw drops. I love the contrast of the black and white stone and the timber roof is unlike any other cathedral I have been in. Photographs can’t begin to capture it; it is something that must be experienced and burned into your soul.
We meet up in the Cappella del Corporale and find P sitting and crying. “Oh dear P, what is wrong?” “It is so beautiful” she replies, “I can’t believe I didn’t come inside last time.” And I will let P chime in and finish the rest of the story if she so chooses.
We continue on beyond the Duomo to a scenic overlook and then I go back to the Duomo to just sit a bit on the steps and savor the moment because our time here is so short. P and B catch up and all too soon we have to go back to the hotel and check out for the next stage of our journey.
Jude brings the green car back and exiting Orvieto is easy as pie. The street right next to the hotel has a sign for the A1 and we are on the main road in minutes and down the hill we go. We are to meet our host for the next week by 4:30-5:00 in Moiano, a little town outside of Chiusi, but in Umbria. He advised us to get there before dark and it was good advice.
When we arrive in Moiano we call Julian and tell him we are at the Total gas station, he can’t miss us. Of course, he is laughing as he pulls up next to the Qubo. We follow him through town and onto the white roads, up and down, and turning and I wonder if I will ever be able to find my way in and out of here, certainly never in the dark.
We arrive at his charming country house and are greeted by Tufo, the truffle hound. Our apartment is beyond our expectations. We have two bedrooms, two bathrooms, a huge living room and eat in kitchen. You can see it on their website www.artistinitaly.com; it is the apartment with the brick arch. Our view is of the hills covered with olive trees and Chiusi in the distance.
Dinner is served in the studio and we arrive for drinks and to meet the rest of the group. We actually couldn’t have picked a better group to be with. Two women, Jo and El were friends traveling together from New York City and the other woman was Ja from Lewes, De. So we are all from the same region and relatively close in age; it promises to be a great week.
Amanda, Julian’s wife is a fantastic cook and tonight serves us bruschetta with three different toppings, rocket, pasta with pesto sauce and gelato for dessert. Included every night is limitless red wine which Julian said is a local rosso that he takes his bottles and has refilled. It was quite good. There is also a white but I never had any of it. I’m a red girl all the way.
This has been a perfect day and we toddle off to bed.
Hopefully this installment wasn’t too boring after our adventurous first day…
<b>Tomorrow Jo and I venture out to conquer some hills and hopefully find our way back…</b>
Nov 11th, 2009, 05:46 PM
#43
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And so there I sat in that magnificent chapel crying my eyes out at the shear beauty of the frescoes, the reliquary and the wonderful light coming in through the oculus and B says to me, "didn't you see this the last time you were here?" and I said "nooooo (sniff) I was eating cheese". And that is exactly what I was doing....a friend had gone to the cheese shop and had gotten the most incredible pecorino with truffles, along with some boar salami and amazing rustic bread...and offered to share with me. There was no contest....I think I cried my way through that wonderful little bench picnic as well as I sat across from the facade of the Duomo and watched the sun sparkle off of the glass and gold mosaics....a unique experience to say the least.
Nov 12th, 2009, 02:58 AM
#45
bfrac - you have really sold Orvieto to me.
I'm going to start NOW trying to fit in a day trip while we are in Rome in February.
what would you prioritise to see in one day?
where would you eat lunch?
is monday a good day or are most things shut?
I'm going to start NOW trying to fit in a day trip while we are in Rome in February.
what would you prioritise to see in one day?
where would you eat lunch?
is monday a good day or are most things shut?
Nov 12th, 2009, 04:25 AM
#48
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Ann, we had on our agenda to visit the Duomo and the underground tour. Unfortunately our plans had to be modified with the late arrival on our first day. If you are taking the train from Rome and want to do the underground tour (open every day) try to get there as early as possible because the english tour is at 11:00 am. http://www.orvietounderground.it/index.php?lang=en Then you could sightsee and shop around, have lunch, see the Duomo and back to Rome.
Le Grotte del Funaro, where we had dinner is open for lunch and I would go back there again in a heartbeat. It was delicious and such a cool grotto setting. http://www.grottedelfunaro.it/eng.htm We were the only english speaking patrons on a Friday night, the others were all italian.
Enjoy!
Le Grotte del Funaro, where we had dinner is open for lunch and I would go back there again in a heartbeat. It was delicious and such a cool grotto setting. http://www.grottedelfunaro.it/eng.htm We were the only english speaking patrons on a Friday night, the others were all italian.
Enjoy!
Nov 12th, 2009, 08:29 AM
#50
hi bfac,
it looks like there are two trains that would get us there - one that arrives at about 9.50 am and the other at 10.23.
would the 2nd one give us enough time to get to the underground tour do you think?
if we wanted to eat at the restaurant you mention, would it be a good idea to book?
thanks for all your great info and for sharing it with the rest of us,
regards, ann
it looks like there are two trains that would get us there - one that arrives at about 9.50 am and the other at 10.23.
would the 2nd one give us enough time to get to the underground tour do you think?
if we wanted to eat at the restaurant you mention, would it be a good idea to book?
thanks for all your great info and for sharing it with the rest of us,
regards, ann
Nov 12th, 2009, 08:43 AM
#51
"is monday a good day or are most things shut?"
annhig, I have been scouting this out since we are taking a Rome to Orvieto day trip in December.
According to the guidebooks, Underground Orvieto, Duomo and St. Patrick's Well are all open on Mondays, however Le Grotte del Funaro is closed on Mondays.
annhig, I have been scouting this out since we are taking a Rome to Orvieto day trip in December.
According to the guidebooks, Underground Orvieto, Duomo and St. Patrick's Well are all open on Mondays, however Le Grotte del Funaro is closed on Mondays.
Nov 12th, 2009, 09:56 AM
#52
hi tom,
thanks for that.
perhaps we will go on a saturday or sunday instead. [the food looks very good there - not that that's all I'm interested in of course!]
any chance you'll be posting a TR before we leave in February for our trip to Rome?
how funny that we're following you around again.
do you know where are you going to in the trip AFTER the Rome one?
thanks for that.
perhaps we will go on a saturday or sunday instead. [the food looks very good there - not that that's all I'm interested in of course!]
any chance you'll be posting a TR before we leave in February for our trip to Rome?
how funny that we're following you around again.
do you know where are you going to in the trip AFTER the Rome one?
Nov 12th, 2009, 03:50 PM
#54
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Ann, I would take the earlier train just to be on the safe side. That way you have plenty of time and will be sure not to miss the tour if that is something you really want to do. Oh, I just realized that the underground tour only operates on Saturdays and Sundays in February. Check out the website for full details.
The restaurant does accept reservations and our hotel made one for us, but it did not appear to be necessary.
Tom, I brought home a brochure from le Grotte del Funaro and it doesn't say anything on it about being closed on Monday. Where did you find that info? That would be important to know for sure...
Carol, thanks. We can now look back on it and laugh and appreciate the fact that we survived it.
The restaurant does accept reservations and our hotel made one for us, but it did not appear to be necessary.
Tom, I brought home a brochure from le Grotte del Funaro and it doesn't say anything on it about being closed on Monday. Where did you find that info? That would be important to know for sure...
Carol, thanks. We can now look back on it and laugh and appreciate the fact that we survived it.
Nov 12th, 2009, 05:06 PM
#55
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<b>Jo and I venture out to conquer some hills and hopefully find our way back…</b>
Sunday, October 18 – last night Jo volunteered to go adventuring with me. That will be cool; her last name ends in a vowel too, so we should be bulletproof.
She is starting her second week at Artist in Italy, but not doing the artist part this week. She decided to stay on and meet up with her friend El who is doing the program, then Jo leaves on Thursday to visit someone in Bologna and then they are going to meet up again in Venice, sounds great. So, all that to explain why she is willing to go off with me and sightsee.
We all meet at breakfast and decide to leave at 10:00. I have my maps and pages torn out of a guidebook for each town I want to visit. Today’s agenda includes Citta della Pieve and Montepulciano.
I’m a little nervous to be heading into another hilltown after the Orvieto incident with the gps melting down and determine that I will not go through any gates even if it means a long walk <i>uphill</i> from the parking area.
Julian consults with me on my maps and agrees Citta della Pieve is a good starter hilltown and then after we conquer that to go on to Montepulciano. Most importantly he programs his home address into Garmin so we might return.
Jo rides shotgun and is in charge of Garmin, reading signs and studying the white roads for any clue that will help us find our way back to the house. Citta della Pieve is only about a 15 minute drive and I skirt around the town wall to a parking lot that appears to be free and take the most level spot available. I have no intention of parking on a hill and testing the hand brake or my ability not to roll into another parked car.
This town is all brick which is quite unique and unusual in a country known for stone. It is also popular for its Festa dei Fiori in June on the Sunday nearest the summer solstice. The streets are carpeted in flowers in beautiful designs to honor S.Luigi Gonzaga, protector of the Casalino Terziere.
We check out little side streets and alleys which are covered with window boxes and planters still in full, lush bloom. This is just amazing because we are freezing cold. The wind is blowing and it is unseasonably chilly for mid-October. We make our way around the square and stop into a bar for caffe and to warm up. Everything seems to be closed because it is Sunday morning but we’ll be back tomorrow with Julian to see some artwork.
<b>On to Montepulciano, Garmin doesn’t agree with the map and a magic moment for both of us<b>
Sunday, October 18 – last night Jo volunteered to go adventuring with me. That will be cool; her last name ends in a vowel too, so we should be bulletproof.
She is starting her second week at Artist in Italy, but not doing the artist part this week. She decided to stay on and meet up with her friend El who is doing the program, then Jo leaves on Thursday to visit someone in Bologna and then they are going to meet up again in Venice, sounds great. So, all that to explain why she is willing to go off with me and sightsee.
We all meet at breakfast and decide to leave at 10:00. I have my maps and pages torn out of a guidebook for each town I want to visit. Today’s agenda includes Citta della Pieve and Montepulciano.
I’m a little nervous to be heading into another hilltown after the Orvieto incident with the gps melting down and determine that I will not go through any gates even if it means a long walk <i>uphill</i> from the parking area.
Julian consults with me on my maps and agrees Citta della Pieve is a good starter hilltown and then after we conquer that to go on to Montepulciano. Most importantly he programs his home address into Garmin so we might return.
Jo rides shotgun and is in charge of Garmin, reading signs and studying the white roads for any clue that will help us find our way back to the house. Citta della Pieve is only about a 15 minute drive and I skirt around the town wall to a parking lot that appears to be free and take the most level spot available. I have no intention of parking on a hill and testing the hand brake or my ability not to roll into another parked car.
This town is all brick which is quite unique and unusual in a country known for stone. It is also popular for its Festa dei Fiori in June on the Sunday nearest the summer solstice. The streets are carpeted in flowers in beautiful designs to honor S.Luigi Gonzaga, protector of the Casalino Terziere.
We check out little side streets and alleys which are covered with window boxes and planters still in full, lush bloom. This is just amazing because we are freezing cold. The wind is blowing and it is unseasonably chilly for mid-October. We make our way around the square and stop into a bar for caffe and to warm up. Everything seems to be closed because it is Sunday morning but we’ll be back tomorrow with Julian to see some artwork.
<b>On to Montepulciano, Garmin doesn’t agree with the map and a magic moment for both of us<b>
Nov 12th, 2009, 05:06 PM
#56
"le Grotte del Funaro and it doesn't say anything on it about being closed on Monday. Where did you find that info? That would be important to know for sure..."
saw it on Frommer's site. Hope it is wrong, because we are going to Orvieto on a Monday.
saw it on Frommer's site. Hope it is wrong, because we are going to Orvieto on a Monday.
Nov 12th, 2009, 05:51 PM
#57
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Tom, I can't find anything about them being closed on their website either. Frommer's is probably wrong but if you are going on a Monday you could email them to doublecheck. [email protected]
Nov 12th, 2009, 06:26 PM
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As bfrac noted, our hotel made our reservation for dinner at Grotte del Funaro and because they did, we got a discount on our dinner. Don't remember the percentage but it was significant. You might want to ask your hotel to do the booking.
