BEST LOCAL FOODS Umbria or touristy Tuscanny?
Jan 7th, 2014, 07:09 AM
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BEST LOCAL FOODS Umbria or touristy Tuscanny?
Hi, My wife and I are touring from Rome to Florence in late May 2014 .. We are looking for comments and suggestions regarding food choices. Better local fare in Umbria or touristy Tucanny . Any ideas or comments would be appreciated. Thanks in advance!
Jan 7th, 2014, 08:02 AM
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Here is our trip report on Tuscany...just returned and ate like kings
http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...-new-years.cfm
http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...-new-years.cfm
Jan 7th, 2014, 08:50 AM
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" Better local fare in Umbria or touristy Tucanny? "
Why does it matter? You're not going to drive to Poggibonsi for lunch if you're visiting Perugia.
True, almost nowhere in Italy has such mediocre food as the very highly touristy indeed - far touristier than anywhere in Tuscany - Assisi (though I've eaten excellently if, by Umbrian standards pricily though close to the prices of the cheapest trat in Venice, at the restaurant in its Nun hotel).
But there are few (I'd say no, but others may differ) eating places in either region so stellar you'd organise a day round them, or so awful you'd avoid a glorious cathedral or Piero della Francesca painting because there are no adequate restaurants nearby.
Decide where in the two regions you want to visit, confident in the genetic incapability of Italians (at any rate outside Venice) to design a small town without somewhere decent and sensibly priced to eat.
Then come back here for eating suggestions.
Why does it matter? You're not going to drive to Poggibonsi for lunch if you're visiting Perugia.
True, almost nowhere in Italy has such mediocre food as the very highly touristy indeed - far touristier than anywhere in Tuscany - Assisi (though I've eaten excellently if, by Umbrian standards pricily though close to the prices of the cheapest trat in Venice, at the restaurant in its Nun hotel).
But there are few (I'd say no, but others may differ) eating places in either region so stellar you'd organise a day round them, or so awful you'd avoid a glorious cathedral or Piero della Francesca painting because there are no adequate restaurants nearby.
Decide where in the two regions you want to visit, confident in the genetic incapability of Italians (at any rate outside Venice) to design a small town without somewhere decent and sensibly priced to eat.
Then come back here for eating suggestions.
Jan 7th, 2014, 11:50 AM
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If you specifically want a gastronomic holiday, I'd suggest Emilia Romagna or Le Marche over either region. Both Umbria and Tuscany are noted among Italians for a rather rustic cuisine. There are some excellent restaurants with menus at a high international level, especially in the areas with lots of tourists, but these are not serving primarily what I would call local foods.
Umbria is noted in Italy for its salamis, sausages, and cheeses, especially pecorino cheese.
I've eaten quite well in Assisi on various occasions, but not at places I would return to just for the food.
Umbria is noted in Italy for its salamis, sausages, and cheeses, especially pecorino cheese.
I've eaten quite well in Assisi on various occasions, but not at places I would return to just for the food.
Jan 7th, 2014, 03:40 PM
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Hi,
Firstly, let me apologize for spelling Tuscany incorrectly...
No excuse, but it was late, I was tired. I am in Rhode Island and it is very cold outside..
OK enough of that!
Secondly, we are new to this. We have never been out of the US. It is our first trip to Italy. We have been studying . We have been listening to Rick Steve interviews. In one he was interviewing an "expert" foodie and a comment was made regarding "touristy" Tuscany vs Umbria and I thought I would ask for thoughts and suggestions.. I did not seem to think I would be "berated".. Oh well, live and learn..
We are traveling from Rome airport by car to Orvieto for two nites in May. We are then heading to Florence . So... we can go "up" to tuscany area, or turn right and head deep into Umbria...Just looking for ideas and smiles here.. Didnt mean to get upset.
(-;
Firstly, let me apologize for spelling Tuscany incorrectly...
No excuse, but it was late, I was tired. I am in Rhode Island and it is very cold outside..
OK enough of that!
Secondly, we are new to this. We have never been out of the US. It is our first trip to Italy. We have been studying . We have been listening to Rick Steve interviews. In one he was interviewing an "expert" foodie and a comment was made regarding "touristy" Tuscany vs Umbria and I thought I would ask for thoughts and suggestions.. I did not seem to think I would be "berated".. Oh well, live and learn..
We are traveling from Rome airport by car to Orvieto for two nites in May. We are then heading to Florence . So... we can go "up" to tuscany area, or turn right and head deep into Umbria...Just looking for ideas and smiles here.. Didnt mean to get upset.
(-;
Jan 7th, 2014, 04:49 PM
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I would prefer to see the countryside and villages in Tuscany----you can find good food in either. Here are a few in Tuscany we like:
GOOD EATS IN TOSCANA
I have never been called “ BOB THE FOODIE” , but here are some of the best places to eat in Tuscany based on feedback from many of my clients. Reservations are suggested for most!
$=inexpensive $$=moderate prices $$$= expensive
FLORENCE:
Osteria del Cinghiale Bianco $$ Across the river & very good.
La Giostra $$$ Excellent, but you must book in advance
SIENA:
Osteria Le Logge $$ Great place for lunch and near Il Campo
Cane e Gato $$$ A fixed price & menu for a true feast—allow 4 hours
LUCCA:
Buca di San Antonio $$ Best in town and near San Michele
Il Giglio $$ In the piazza of the same name---favorite with locals
SAN GIMIGNANO:
Il Pino $$ Very good typical Tuscan fare
Le Vecchie Mura $ Good value for a tourist town
MONTALCINO:
Taverna Grappolo Blu $ Popular with locals as well.
Ristorante Poggio Antico $$ Excellent cuisine 5km south of town at winery location
Enoteca Osteria Osticcio $ Best wine tasting & small meals in town
MONTEPULCIANO:
La Grotta $$ Near San Biagio church & very good
Café Poliziano $ Great place for lunch on shopping street
Osteria Acquacheta Best bistecca in Tuscany
PIENZA: Latte du Luna $$ Best choice in this charming village
BAGNO VIGNONI: Osteria del Leone $ Good lunch choice in this spa hamlet
MONTICCHIELLO: La Porta $ Charming place with outside terrace
SAN QUIRICO: Trattoria al Vecchio Forno $ Good food & fair value
GOOD EATS IN TOSCANA
I have never been called “ BOB THE FOODIE” , but here are some of the best places to eat in Tuscany based on feedback from many of my clients. Reservations are suggested for most!
$=inexpensive $$=moderate prices $$$= expensive
FLORENCE:
Osteria del Cinghiale Bianco $$ Across the river & very good.
La Giostra $$$ Excellent, but you must book in advance
SIENA:
Osteria Le Logge $$ Great place for lunch and near Il Campo
Cane e Gato $$$ A fixed price & menu for a true feast—allow 4 hours
LUCCA:
Buca di San Antonio $$ Best in town and near San Michele
Il Giglio $$ In the piazza of the same name---favorite with locals
SAN GIMIGNANO:
Il Pino $$ Very good typical Tuscan fare
Le Vecchie Mura $ Good value for a tourist town
MONTALCINO:
Taverna Grappolo Blu $ Popular with locals as well.
Ristorante Poggio Antico $$ Excellent cuisine 5km south of town at winery location
Enoteca Osteria Osticcio $ Best wine tasting & small meals in town
MONTEPULCIANO:
La Grotta $$ Near San Biagio church & very good
Café Poliziano $ Great place for lunch on shopping street
Osteria Acquacheta Best bistecca in Tuscany
PIENZA: Latte du Luna $$ Best choice in this charming village
BAGNO VIGNONI: Osteria del Leone $ Good lunch choice in this spa hamlet
MONTICCHIELLO: La Porta $ Charming place with outside terrace
SAN QUIRICO: Trattoria al Vecchio Forno $ Good food & fair value
Jan 7th, 2014, 05:17 PM
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Jamikins and bobthenavigator give you a ton of great choices in Tuscany.
Never pay attention to Rick Steves when it comes to food. He throws around phrases like touristy Tuscany that are fairly meaningless. It's like saying "touristy Rome."
I love Umbria, and I love the wilder more far off parts for scenery.
I've eaten very well near Assisi and in nearby Spello.
I would really count on finding good restaurant recommendations for wherever you go, from here, chowhound.com and maybe people you will talk to. I think it's more important to decide what it is you want to see, or if specific eating and drinking are more important than art, cathedrals, etc.
I can honestly tell you that we travel for art and sightseeing but find wonderful food all over Italy, and occasionally even in Venice.
Also, we're just a tough crowd here. We read and answer 100s of questions all the time, and we're fairly intolerant of misspellings and Steves quotes. Otherwise, we're really nice and helpful once you get past our quirks.
And we do all this for free.
In Umbria, I love the cured meats as mentioned above (I still think about a duck prosciutto in a small out of the way town). I also really love the thick hand rolled pastas.
In Tuscany, I love bistecca and pappa al pomodoro.
Never pay attention to Rick Steves when it comes to food. He throws around phrases like touristy Tuscany that are fairly meaningless. It's like saying "touristy Rome."
I love Umbria, and I love the wilder more far off parts for scenery.
I've eaten very well near Assisi and in nearby Spello.
I would really count on finding good restaurant recommendations for wherever you go, from here, chowhound.com and maybe people you will talk to. I think it's more important to decide what it is you want to see, or if specific eating and drinking are more important than art, cathedrals, etc.
I can honestly tell you that we travel for art and sightseeing but find wonderful food all over Italy, and occasionally even in Venice.
Also, we're just a tough crowd here. We read and answer 100s of questions all the time, and we're fairly intolerant of misspellings and Steves quotes. Otherwise, we're really nice and helpful once you get past our quirks.
And we do all this for free.
In Umbria, I love the cured meats as mentioned above (I still think about a duck prosciutto in a small out of the way town). I also really love the thick hand rolled pastas.
In Tuscany, I love bistecca and pappa al pomodoro.
Jan 8th, 2014, 01:08 AM
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You will have a great time in both areas.
For good local food at a reasonable price, don't just look at the menu, which will be posted outside, check out the people inside and walking in.
We have had our best luck in Italy and rural France in the kinds of places that local shopkeepers and business people eat, the kind of place that will have the local version of a blue plate special.
One other piece of advice is to read a bit about the regional foods. Tuscan and Umbrian food is often very, very different from the Italian food we eat in America.
For good local food at a reasonable price, don't just look at the menu, which will be posted outside, check out the people inside and walking in.
We have had our best luck in Italy and rural France in the kinds of places that local shopkeepers and business people eat, the kind of place that will have the local version of a blue plate special.
One other piece of advice is to read a bit about the regional foods. Tuscan and Umbrian food is often very, very different from the Italian food we eat in America.
Jan 19th, 2014, 09:44 AM
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Ky bourbon....We were initially staying in Orvieto for 2 nights but we have decided to stay there, for 4 nights and use that as a base for those days to explore the area by car. Then off to Florence for 3 nights and finish with train to Rome for 5 nights..then home...
Jan 19th, 2014, 09:56 AM
#16
Ken - from Orvieto you of course not limited to Umbria - you can drive over the "border" into southern Tuscany, where I had some terrific food in places which are rarely visited by foreign tourists.
within an hour's drive of Orvieto is Pitigliano - a city a little like Orvieto, in that it has layers of etruscan, roman and medieval buildings, - but different in that it has far fewer people. 30 minutes beyond that is Satunia - a natural warm spa in which you can swim for free. there are some lovely little villages around there where you are almost bound to have a good meal.
within an hour's drive of Orvieto is Pitigliano - a city a little like Orvieto, in that it has layers of etruscan, roman and medieval buildings, - but different in that it has far fewer people. 30 minutes beyond that is Satunia - a natural warm spa in which you can swim for free. there are some lovely little villages around there where you are almost bound to have a good meal.
Jan 19th, 2014, 01:41 PM
#17
it just struck me - in the case of Orvieto and Pitigliano, it's touristy Umbria, and Pitigliano which has the local food. [though I have to say that we had a pretty good lunch in Orvieto when we were there a few years ago].
Jan 19th, 2014, 01:55 PM
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The town of Bolsena, on Lago di Bolsena, is a short, pleasant drive from Orvieto. The old town is very nice and the new town on the shore is pleasant. They definitely observe the long siesta so plan accordingly.
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