Bernina Express - Italy to Switzerland?

Old Jun 1st, 2024 | 07:29 AM
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Bernina Express - Italy to Switzerland?

As part of a longer road trip in northern Italy, we will be staying in a home in Argengo on Lake Como for nine days in September. A friends told us about the Bernino Express train ride - and it sounds lovely. Wondering if this could be a long day trip - or better as an overnight stop. Has anyone taken this four-hour scenic narrow gauge train ride? Any information or advice would be very welcome, especially the logistics of boarding and arrival stations, and places along the way if it's even possible to stop and take a look around. Does the train run only once a day - so if we would choose it as a day trip, we might need to just stay onboard at the end to return? Or as a day trip is it round trip from north to south? If so, I suppose the only option would be to spend a night in Switzerland.

We will have a car, so any other suggestions for activities or not-to-be-missed places in the surrounding area would also be great. Thanks in advance!
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Old Jun 1st, 2024 | 08:40 AM
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I've taken it many times. No need to take the "scenic train" as regular trains take the same route. Neckervd will probably be along soon with details. If not, I'll check back later.
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Old Jun 1st, 2024 | 08:46 AM
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The Bernina railway line is part of the Swiss railway network with trains running every hr.
These trains stop at every station and you can hop on/hop off as many times as you like.
There is no compiulsory or even adviced seat reservation.

In addition to these standard trains run up o 4 (according to the season) daily Bernina Express trains with only few intermediate stops and compulsory seat reservation.
2 of them go from Tirano via Pontresina to Chur and 2 others from Tirano via Pontresina to St. Moritz (with connecting standard trains from thre to Chur).

Bernina Express trains are popular with American and Asian tourists who just want to cross the whole area without leaving te train and without getting in contact with local people.
European tourists usually prefer to take standard trains and to leave them at exceptionally scenic places in order to do some hiking or to go by gondola into the glacier area.

You can just drive to Tirano and go by Bernina Express to St. Moritz and back or you can do a circular loop from Colico by Italian train to Tirano, by Bernina Express to St. Moritz, from there by bus to Chiavenna and by Italian train back to Colico.
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Old Jun 1st, 2024 | 08:50 AM
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If you leave the Bernina train and take a gondola up to Diavolezza, you will se the folowing panorama:


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Old Jun 1st, 2024 | 08:53 AM
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If you reman in the train, you can enjoy Lago Bianco from your railcar window


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Old Jun 1st, 2024 | 08:54 AM
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European tourists usually prefer to take standard trains and to leave them at exceptionally scenic places in order to do some hiking or to go by gondola into the glacier area.

As does this American tourist.
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Old Jun 1st, 2024 | 08:59 AM
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I know: Melnq and Adelaiden are incredibly smart exceptions (who write better trip reports about Switzerland in this blog than any Swiss could do it).
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Old Jun 1st, 2024 | 10:46 AM
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You're very kind neckervd!
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Old Jun 1st, 2024 | 05:12 PM
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I have done the Bernina trip three different times. The scenery is, IMO, spectacular and it remains so whether or not you get off anywhere en route. I cannot comment about what "Europeans do" since I am not one.
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Old Jun 2nd, 2024 | 08:39 AM
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As always, the information shared on this forum is invaluable. Thank you to all, especially neckervd. Thank you so much for explaining that the "express" option is not the only one. We much prefer making stops along the way to see the countryside and villages.

We're thinking that a good plan for us would be to either:

(A) Drive from our house in Argengo to Colico, leave the car, and catch the train to Tirano - then take the red train to St. Moritz, stopping along the way to explore the villages and glacier sites at various stops. We can spend a night in St. Moritz, and then repeat in reverse the following day.

Or (B) Drive from Argengo to Tirano and follow the same itinerary as (A). The first option involves less driving, but the added complication of synching trains might make it less convenient. I'm not sure if the station arriving from Colico would be the same as the Bernina red train departure station, or even nearby - anyone know?

I see the drive to Colico will be about an hour from our home, and it's about two hours from our home to Tirano. But changing train stations could pose extra travel time, so not sure which plan is better.

This website was very informative - if anyone else is interested in this train trip. Bernina Regular and Express Informations and Usefull Tips | Bernina Railway Experience

Thanks again - even though we're still about three months out from our trip, I'm definitely getting into anticipation mode!

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Old Jun 2nd, 2024 | 09:03 AM
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At the risk of hijacking your post, your mention of Argengo caught my eye as we're considering basing there for a December trip. Have you visited before or is this your first stay there? Mind sharing why you chose it as a base?
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Old Jun 2nd, 2024 | 11:10 AM
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Originally Posted by Melnq8
At the risk of hijacking your post, your mention of Argengo caught my eye as we're considering basing there for a December trip. Have you visited before or is this your first stay there? Mind sharing why you chose it as a base?
We have not visited Argengo - this will be our first time traveling north of Milan. We like to stay in airbnb properties (or similar) for a week or more when we travel, locating ourselves near tourist attractions, but not in them. Argengo looks to me like a pretty village, somewhat conveniently located and with some restaurants, a ferry stop, and a town center, but not on the beaten track. I guess we'll find out!

I'm looking forward to doing a half-day walk on the Greenway, which is not far from Argengo FAQ - Frequently asked question - Greenway del Lago di Como (greenwaylagodicomo.com) , as well as driving to other villages in the area - like this one: Day Trip To Chiavenna: Lombardy's Mountain Hideaway | ITALY Magazine

What is leading you to choose Argengo as a place to visit?
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Old Jun 2nd, 2024 | 11:35 AM
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Sounds like we have similar travel styles.

We're looking for a Lake Como base in December and are leaning towards Argengo or Menaggio. We're looking for a 'real town' that won't be completely shuttered in the off season as some of the more tourist driven towns might be.

We'll also be staying in Chiavenna (our third stay there) as well Lake Orta, Domodosolla and a few yet to be determined spots in Switzerland. Like you heading north, our past few trips have had us traveling south towards Italy from Switzerland, and possibly west to France this year...we shall see.

We always travel by public transport in Europe, and this trip will be no exception.
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Old Jun 3rd, 2024 | 02:17 AM
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ARGEGNO
Argegno (not to be confounded with Arcegno, a small scenic village close to Locarno) has some 700 inhabitants (almost no change within the last 150 years).
Argegno is a small local transport hub with buses to
Como: about every 30 - 60 minutes
Menaggio: about every 30 to 60 min
Val d'Intelvi (San Fedele, Lanzo, Casasco, Ponna, Pigra, Osteno/Lake Lugano): 5 - 20 buses per weekday, according to the village
and boats/catamarans (on weekdays) to
Como 11
Bellagio - Menaggio: 10
Gravedona - Colico: 5

Accommodation:
If you are not a traffic noise lover, avoid places along the main road SS340 (Via Milano - Via Spluga) and along the road to Val d'Intelvi (Via Schignano)
Be aware that in late automn/early winter, there is not much afternoon sun in the southern part of the village.

Hiking:
The Greenway is a walk from village to village on mostly pebbled former mulattiere.
For mountain hiking, you best take a bus to Val d'Intelvi:
Casasco or Lanzo for Monte Generoso cog wheel railway station
Lanzo for view point (over Lake Lugano) Sighignola (with the possibility to hike down on signmarked Swiss hiking trails to Arogno and to go on by bus to Maroggia and from there by train to Como)
Casasco for Prabello Hut - Murelli Hut and then all on the top of the crest to Monte Bisbino - Sagno (bus to Morbio (bus change) - Pizzamiglio/Maslianico (bus change) - Cernobbio)
Pigra for the hike on the crest to Mone Sertore - Costone - Alpe di Colonne - Boffalora Hut - Alpe di Lenno - Venini hut - Monte di Tremezzo - Croce bus stop

Last edited by neckervd; Jun 3rd, 2024 at 02:21 AM.
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Old Jun 3rd, 2024 | 04:17 AM
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It's a beautiful ride, no matter how you do it (although I don't like sitting in panorama cars and having the sun beating down on me the whole time). The only caution I would give is to think carefully about doing the trip on a Sunday, esp if you plan to stop off in one of the towns like Poschiavo. I learned that lesson the hard way -- got off the train there on an early January Sunday and everything was shut tight. Nothing open. I did walk by a hotel with lights on in the dining area, so I eagerly went in and sat down at a table near the roaring fireplace. Only to be told that the hotel was actually closed and this was a pre-break late luncheon for the staff before they all went on their post-Christmas holiday. I quickly exited, did a walk through the shuttered town and then headed back to the station. Fortunately the various gondolas etc along the route do run on Sundays.
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Old Jun 3rd, 2024 | 05:41 AM
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Thanks for the info neckervd.
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Old Jun 3rd, 2024 | 09:25 AM
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Prego, Mel nq8
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Old Jun 3rd, 2024 | 09:37 AM
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BERNINA
The drive from Colico to Tirano is easy (no tunnels like along Lake Como). There is a toll free highway almost up to the Eastern end of Sondrio (with one section still under construction).
If you plan to take a standard Bernina train, I wouldn't park the car atg Tirano, but drive up to the parking lots of Brusio railway station (Switzrland) and board the train there. https://www.parking.ch/en/parkings/b...ail-brusio-rhb
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Old Jun 3rd, 2024 | 11:19 AM
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The Italian and the Swiss railway station of Tirano are just in front of each other.
If the Italian train arrives at track 1, you can even move to the Swiss train on the same platform.

It makes only sense to park your car somewhere at Colico, if you want to do a circular trip
Colico - Tirano - Lake Poschiavo - Alp Grum - Bernina (Diavolezza) - Pontresina (Alp Languard) - Punt Muragl (Muottas Muragl) - St. Moritz (by train)
- Silvaplauna (Corvatsch) - Sils Maria - Lake Sils - Promontogno (Soglio) - Chiavenna (by bus)
- Colico (by train
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Old Jun 4th, 2024 | 04:46 PM
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Originally Posted by neckervd
The Italian and the Swiss railway station of Tirano are just in front of each other.
If the Italian train arrives at track 1, you can even move to the Swiss train on the same platform.

It makes only sense to park your car somewhere at Colico, if you want to do a circular trip
Colico - Tirano - Lake Poschiavo - Alp Grum - Bernina (Diavolezza) - Pontresina (Alp Languard) - Punt Muragl (Muottas Muragl) - St. Moritz (by train)
- Silvaplauna (Corvatsch) - Sils Maria - Lake Sils - Promontogno (Soglio) - Chiavenna (by bus)- Colico (by train
Thank you for this information - it's invaluable. Question - what is the benefit of taking the bus back from St Moritz? Is it to avoid backtracking? We are thinking of getting off the train in half the villages along the way from Tirano to St Moritz - having a look around - and then doing the same the next day in the other villages on the return train ride. Better to leave the car in Colico- and bus back?
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