Cries_Van_Notebook

I stayed at the Cloche Hotel in Dijon years ago. At the time, it was the best hotel in the city.

Beune is a pretty little town (I had a chocolate croissant there in 1999 and I can still remember how absolutely delicious it was--probably the best croissant I have ever eaten), but I would be bored to tears if I stayed there for 4 nights with no car.

Thin

Kavey

Coco, I agree, Dijon IS underrated.

I think most visitors fall for the "quaint" attractions of Beaune (and, don't get me wrong, the historical architecture is appealing) but for me, Dijon is far more interesting with it's mix of historical and modern, it's culture, it's bustle... I could see myself living there.

FaxMachineAnthem

I hope, if you are able, you'll take the opportunity to rent a bike in Beaune and ride through the vineyards of and the surrounding towns of Pommard, etc. This was easily the highlight of my trip to France.

thursdaysd

Thank you so much coco - I think I saw that first video when it was originally posted, but I'd forgotten! Dijon looks wonderful - I can't wait!

And what a great market - I was especially taken by the cheese stall - maybe I should have taken a Citadines apartment instead of a hotel and lived on bread and cheese - but I'm already doing that in Grenoble! Talking of food, and bearing in mind that for me 30 euro for two courses with house wine is a bit of a splurge, any places to eat that I shouldn't miss?

FaxMachineAnthem - I have actually forgotten how to ride a bike! I know it's not supposed to be possible, but it is. Maybe I should try again, that's the second suggestion for visiting vineyards on a bike (the other was for Alsace). I was thinking of checking with the TI for a tour, or just taking buses. I'll certainly do a day trip to Beaune and Marche aux Vins!

GDom

thursdaysd, I am so glad to read that you decided on Dijon, you will love it! Have fun and safe travels.

thursdaysd

Well, Dijon was absolutely the right decision! I spent four nights at the Jacquemart, nothing fancy but fine, and did a day trip to Beaune. While the Hotel de Dieu, is, of course, wonderful, and I had a lovely time tasting at the Marche des Vins, and a peaceful stroll round the ramparts (the bits that weren't private), I was ready to leave earlier than I had planned. Lots of tour groups in the center, and much less interesting architecture than in Dijon.

Dijon was completely dead Easter Sunday and Monday. While that made for better photography and quieter museums, it did make eating a little problematic! I was able to go on a wine tasting tour to Nuits St. Georges my last day. I also did the T.I.'s Wednesday afternoon tour, which was a bit too much of a shopping op. But basically I loved Dijon - so many interesting buildings to admire! Liked the market, too, and didn't make it out to the canal. Turned out that the number 5 bus was better than the free bus for getting to the station, as it went all the way.

BTW, I'm now in Strasbourg, and was completely stunned by the cathedral!

thill25

Great thread! I'm moving Dijon up the list of cities to visit!

thursdaysd,

How was the train ride to Strasbourg?

thursdaysd

Train ride to Strasbourg:

TGV to Besancon - comfortable, fast and a bit boring - those TGVs go so fast you can't really watch the scenery! About 50 minutes.

TER (regional express) from Besancon to Strasbourg - five ample minutes to change trains in Besancon. Comfortable and a bit (not a lot) slower, arrived maybe five minutes late in a little under three hours. You could change to a TGV at one point, but I didn't see any reason to do that to save 15 minutes. Filled up in Colmar. Quite good scenery, including river and canal.

Sleek tram to the center of town, where it's been raining off and on ever since I arrived....

cocofromdijon

Hi thursday I'm very happy to see you loved Dijon even when it is so quiet on bank holidays (it was very busy on Friday when I had a walk late afternoon with my Australian guests).

I hope you found a nice little owl for your sister!
BTW what is T.I.'s Wednesday afternoon tour?

Have a nice stay in Strasbourg!

Kavey

Glad to hear you loved Dijon so much and it was the right decision for you to spend most of your time there and take a shorter trip to Beaune!

thursdaysd

coco - I don't have the brochure with me, so I can't give you the exact title, but it was something about flavor or savor. Anyway, it featured stops at mustard and gingerbread shops, as well as the (closed) market. The multilingual guide was good (although I think if you only understood English you might feel left out, her French was clear and slow enough I could follow it pretty well), but I thought we spent too long letting people shop, when they could have come back to do that.

BTW, I had a very good meal at the Bistro les Halles, including a cappuccino de potimarron with crisp ham strips as decoration - not something I'd encountered before.

swagman

thursdaysd

Thx for your feedback on Dijon, perhaps you can post a link to your photos?

s

thursdaysd

swagman - my pix are totally unedited as yet - since I'm traveling with a netbook I haven't even done my usual evening deletion of obviously bad or duplicate pix - I've just uploaded them straight. If you still want to take a look, see http://kwilhelm.smugmug.com/Travel/752708 - Dijon, password dijon - Beaune pix are nos. 155 to 231.

cocofromdijon

Thanks Thursday lovely pics by the way, mostly taken all around my apartment. I'm not sure you followed the owl's trail though. Did you touch the lucky owl on Notre Dame church? You will have to come back then! ;-) If you need help with captions let me know.

thursdaysd

Thanks coco - I will almost certainly need help with captions - but not for a couple of weeks (I'm currently in Paris, unbelievably beautiful weather!) I didn't realize you had an apartment in town? I did do the owl walk, but I don't think I had the camera with me that day - I don't always carry it. And I did touch the owl - going in the right direction, too.

cocofromdijon

"I didn't realize you had an apartment in town?" It was the one Ira kindly mentioned!
I was in Paris on Thursday for the day and we had a lovely weather too. Maybe we were not far from each other! I even met "grandmere" who is still there with her daughter and grand daughter.
Unfortunately the weather is changing now so you may enjoy a few more museums!

thursdaysd

Yes, Thursday and Friday were gorgeous - and I had a Batobus pass on Friday, so I got to enjoy the sunshine on the Seine. This morning I got the Pere Lachaise cemetery in before it started trying to rain, but I spent the afternoon at the Decorative Arts Museum. Not sure about tomorrow yet. I'm staying in the Marais, so maybe I'll just stick close to home.

thursdaysd

I haven't got to the photos yet - still working on the trip report. The piece on Dijon and Beaune is here: http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...omment-5662444