Bayeux and environs
#21
Join Date: Jan 2003
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We left Bayeux yesterday after spending four nights there. We took the 10:10 train out if Paris arriving in Caen at noon. Luckily the car rental place stayed open until 12:15. We stopped for lunch in Caen at Le Bouchon du Vaugueux which was excellent. Then we toured the Peace Museum. I would have liked to get to William the Conquereur's castle but it was raining and getting late.
Are you doing a guided D Day tour? If so it might include some of the sights mentioned.
We didn't plan enough time for the Pays d'Auge cider and cheese route. Small roads that wind around so takes longer than you think.
We had a delightful meal at Le Rapiere around the corner from your hotel. Book in advance.
The tapestry museum is open until 6:30 in the evening. Maybe sine it will be getting dark earlier you could plan to be back in town late afternoon to visit it.
Are you doing a guided D Day tour? If so it might include some of the sights mentioned.
We didn't plan enough time for the Pays d'Auge cider and cheese route. Small roads that wind around so takes longer than you think.
We had a delightful meal at Le Rapiere around the corner from your hotel. Book in advance.
The tapestry museum is open until 6:30 in the evening. Maybe sine it will be getting dark earlier you could plan to be back in town late afternoon to visit it.
#22
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As far as the jet lag for the above, Giverney is really good/perfect--it is really just around the corner. We had lunch there coming from CDG and then went on to Rouen our first night--also not too far.
#23
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Thanks for your post Gretchen! Were you happy with your lunch choice in Giverny, and if so, would you share? We'll probably have lunch while waiting for the room at our B&B to be ready.
On the fence about booking a D-Day guided tour, we may visit places on our own schedule, over a few days.
On the fence about booking a D-Day guided tour, we may visit places on our own schedule, over a few days.
#24
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On the fence about booking a D-Day guided tour, we may visit places on our own schedule, over a few days.>
Yes plenty of do it yourself info tours - Michelin Green Normandy Guide for starters - tours are good for folks without cars and generally only hit the most famous places that you will probably have seen.
Yes plenty of do it yourself info tours - Michelin Green Normandy Guide for starters - tours are good for folks without cars and generally only hit the most famous places that you will probably have seen.
#25
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DH made an unfortunate choice--it was just a little cafe and we loved it--just off the plane and in France. What's not to like.
We got the Michelin Green Guide and did our own tours. It was also from that guide that we found the Abbaye Road out the "back door" of Rouen toward Honfleur--a string of medieval abbeys along a high ridge road. Really interesting to poke in a few of them.
We visited several fromageries and cideries along the way to Bayeux. Get the Guide and be absolutely over the top with excitement about all you can see.
We got the Michelin Green Guide and did our own tours. It was also from that guide that we found the Abbaye Road out the "back door" of Rouen toward Honfleur--a string of medieval abbeys along a high ridge road. Really interesting to poke in a few of them.
We visited several fromageries and cideries along the way to Bayeux. Get the Guide and be absolutely over the top with excitement about all you can see.
#28
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Me too! I can hardly wait. So here's my last question. We'll have a car. Do you think we could do the landing beaches/DDay sites on our own and still get a lot out of it? I was going to use a private guide but the more I read, the more I think it could be ok without. On the other hand, people rave about the importance and significance of their day with a guide.
Also, so many fabulous ideas here for trips near Bayeux. Thank you everyone for your input, and for reminding me to take time for lunch.
Also, so many fabulous ideas here for trips near Bayeux. Thank you everyone for your input, and for reminding me to take time for lunch.
#29
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I think several of us have said it--get the Green Guide and do it yourself. We did do it over a few days, but as said, lingered over lunches, etc.
I wish you would add a few days also, as suggested by several of us. I truly think you will regret it if you don't--since you DO have the time in France already.
There are museums connected to each major site (AND MYRIAD little corner 'museums" dedicated to DDay!! pass on by) with movies, and exhibits. --several are unique--Arromanches (not to be missed), Ste. Mere Egise, Ponte du Hoc. Omaha, of course.
And the American Cemetery. Oh.
IF you all are such history buffs that you want the strategies, etc. then maybe a guide is for you. I found the beaches to be profound in their "starkness"--yes, beaches offer you a 180* view of the sea--when you see the scope of view the German ramparts had of the landing, it is humbling and horrible to think of the thousands of men coming ashore.
There are also small booklets sold throughout the beaches at the shops that tell the story of that particular landing.
En route to Bayeux we also saw the Pegasus Bridge landing site which was interesting.
Ste. Mere Eglise also had particular personal interest for us since the gliders used for that landing (and others) were made in my home town in Ohio. Again, so amazing to see this boxy "device" made of plywood and canvas--absolutely primitive by today's "standards"that played such a part in that battle.
I wish you would add a few days also, as suggested by several of us. I truly think you will regret it if you don't--since you DO have the time in France already.
There are museums connected to each major site (AND MYRIAD little corner 'museums" dedicated to DDay!! pass on by) with movies, and exhibits. --several are unique--Arromanches (not to be missed), Ste. Mere Egise, Ponte du Hoc. Omaha, of course.
And the American Cemetery. Oh.
IF you all are such history buffs that you want the strategies, etc. then maybe a guide is for you. I found the beaches to be profound in their "starkness"--yes, beaches offer you a 180* view of the sea--when you see the scope of view the German ramparts had of the landing, it is humbling and horrible to think of the thousands of men coming ashore.
There are also small booklets sold throughout the beaches at the shops that tell the story of that particular landing.
En route to Bayeux we also saw the Pegasus Bridge landing site which was interesting.
Ste. Mere Eglise also had particular personal interest for us since the gliders used for that landing (and others) were made in my home town in Ohio. Again, so amazing to see this boxy "device" made of plywood and canvas--absolutely primitive by today's "standards"that played such a part in that battle.
#30
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Thanks for the encouragement about DIY on the D-Day sites. Just got notification from our local library that the copy of Band of Brothers that I requested is available!
I do think that a guided tour is often a wonderful way to get more in-depth knowledge, and I know we'll be sacrificing some of that by touring on our own, but right now that's how we're leaning.
I do think that a guided tour is often a wonderful way to get more in-depth knowledge, and I know we'll be sacrificing some of that by touring on our own, but right now that's how we're leaning.
#31
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I do think that a guided tour is often a wonderful way to get more in-depth knowledge, and I know we'll be sacrificing some of that by touring on our own, but right now that's how we're leaning.>
Yes depends on the guided tour however so if you research one that has good reviews.... but if one that just is a bus tour that gives bits and spits of info perhaps no.
Too bad the WW2 vets who gave personal tours are dying out - their insight would have been great.
And as Gretchen says above sometimes you want to be in places like the Colville-s-Mer cemetery/memorial by your self - to ponder and think what horrors those entered here now much have gone thru and not have to get back on the bus.
Yes pros and cons of each.
I would start at the Caen Memorial in any case as IME it is the best museum in the area for an overall view of the area and sights to see - a huge relief map orients you to it all. Just outside of Caen en route to Bayeux.
Yes depends on the guided tour however so if you research one that has good reviews.... but if one that just is a bus tour that gives bits and spits of info perhaps no.
Too bad the WW2 vets who gave personal tours are dying out - their insight would have been great.
And as Gretchen says above sometimes you want to be in places like the Colville-s-Mer cemetery/memorial by your self - to ponder and think what horrors those entered here now much have gone thru and not have to get back on the bus.
Yes pros and cons of each.
I would start at the Caen Memorial in any case as IME it is the best museum in the area for an overall view of the area and sights to see - a huge relief map orients you to it all. Just outside of Caen en route to Bayeux.
#32
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PalenQ, thanks for sharing your thoughts -- we share some of the same sensibilities. As for the museum, that is the plan, either on our way from Honfluer to Bayeux or the next morning, before driving further afield. Ironically, we have friends who just returned from France and stayed overnight in Caen, which I assumed they chose as a one-day base because of the museum, and it turns out they didn't even know there was a museum........
#33
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The Caen Peace Memorial museum is one of the best I've visited. A must-go. We took more than half a day there. But we're museum enthusiasts and it was raining.
Side notes:
IIRC the Caen museum offered audio guides in different English dialects, e.g. English English, North American English, Australian English, etc.
This museum pretty much ignores the WWII in the Pacific.
Side notes:
IIRC the Caen museum offered audio guides in different English dialects, e.g. English English, North American English, Australian English, etc.
This museum pretty much ignores the WWII in the Pacific.
#34
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Great discussion and unbelievably helpful information and advice. Thank you. I'm going to add more time to Normandy and will visit the museum in Caen. My husband surprisingly wants to hire a private guide for the day to tour landing sites so no opposition here. This trip I will write a report so stay tuned.