Barcelona trip report
Oct 5th, 2003, 08:13 AM
#1
Original Poster
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 158
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Barcelona trip report
Hello, everyone. We have returned from 10 days in Barcelona, and have some advice for others who are considering a stay there.
Airline travel. We had booked a flight on British Air many months ago, but they canceled it just before the flight. So we went to a travel agent to rebook. We learned that the flight would be cheaper if we stayed overnight in Paris using Ameican Airlines and Air France, so we leapt at it. Of course the savings evaporated when you factor in the hotel in Paris, tour guide etc, but we had never been to Paris, so we were very happy with it I mention this in case you may want to ask a travel agent about this feature.
Hotel. We used the Gallery Hotel. That?s about all that was left among our original choices when we tried to rebook. We were very happy with the hotel. It has no charm or ambiance of Spain, but it is a modern big city hotel, the room was spacious, clean, the staff was extremely efficient and helpful (and believe me, I had a lot of questions about transportation). I caught an error on the bill after returning home, e-mailed them, received an answer in two days, and a refund on my credit card. They are on the edge of Eixample area, and just off the Passeig de Grazia which has many tapas bars and restaurants, with 2 Metro stations neaby. It was a long walk to the end of the Rambla, which suited us fine. We heartedly recommend it.. We paid 170 euro a night, which did not include breakfast, Breakfast at the Galley is 14 euro each. (For comparison, we walked into the the Colon hotel, near the cathedral, to check the rates, and they wanted 220 euro).
Tour books. I used two books: ?Insight Pocket Guide to Barcelona?, which has an outstanding map of the city. Easy to read, and more important, the Metro stations are clealrly shown. The map was in tatters by the end of the trip. The book itself was ok, but I?m glad I had another, ?Must-See Barcelona?. This is an outstanding book, listing the 10 or 12 favorite tourist sites, and the Metro stops to use to get to each site. One thing to note: our book was published in 2000. We went to Montjuic, a tall hill which you can get to by funicular. The tour book had us go to the wrong station. If you go to Montjuic, and all tourists do, use the Paral-el station, which has a funicular line which must have opened after our book was published. This is included in the metro fare and takes you to the cable car ride (costs extra), which goes to the top.
Metro - this is the way to get around. You can buy single tickets from a ticket counter for 1.05 euro, or a 10 trip ticket from a computer in each station for 5.85 euro. The ticket is called T-10 and can be used by more than one person. The machine is easy to use. It will ask you what language to use, then, in the language you choose, ask what type of ticket you want, eg T-10, and how you want to pay for it. It takes bills, coins and credit card. The first time we used the metro, the door nearest to us would not open, forcing us to sprint for another door. I finally figured it out. Passengers open the doors themselves. Look for a handle in the middle of the door, and turn it. The door will swing open. As far as handicapped usage, there is an elevator in each station, but you have to descend at least one stairway to reach it. Also, each train car has an open area labeled for use by handicapped passengers, but the floor of the cars is about 4 inches above the station platforms. A wheelchair would have to be lifted to the car.
Breakfast and lunch - We found a delightful pastry shop across the street from the Gallery, and this was breakfast every day. The pastry shops in Barcelona have great pastry and coffee, and a seating area. For lunch, we had tapas, or bought pre-wrapped sandwiches, which are available at many news stands, pastry shops, tourist shops, etc. They are much cheaper than a restaurant, and very good.
Evening meals - This has been covered extensively on this board and chowhound.com, so I won?t critique every meal. But a few comments: we liked Tapa Tapa, on Passeig de Gracia, loved Qu Qu a block away on the same street, also for tapas. Most places have an English menu, or pictures on the menu of each tapa selection. Just point and eat. We liked Qu Qu so much, we went back several times. Caution - a pitcher of sangria on the Rambla was 25 euro; at Qu Qu it was about 6 euro. (A weaker version, though. After a pitcher on the Rambla we had to stagger back to the hotel). The Citrus restaurant next to Tapa Tapa was very good, Le Quinze Nits, in Plaza Real (sp?) just off the Rambla, was excellent, but a 90 minute wait. They open at 8:30pm, but the line forms at 7:30 and lasts until about 10.
Flamenco - this is not an area of Spain noted for flamenco, but it is available, probably for people coming off cruise ships who think flamenco is common throughout Spain. A club at Rambla 35 has it nightly. 25 euro for the show, and another 38 euro for a buffet if you want to eat. If a cruise ship has pulled in for the night, you won?t get in. We were walking past a bar/restaurant in the El Born area, when we noticed a sign - flamenco on friday nights. We went in and chatted with the owner. It seems he was from the Andalusian area of Spain, where flamenco was born, and loves the music and dancing so much he brings young flamenco entertainers in from Seville, where the schools of flamenco are located, on friday nights. He charges 25 euros fro the entertainment, which includes a 3 course meal and sangria or wine. We took a chance - and it was wonderful! Oh, ok, the food was so-so, the sangria was weak . But the entertainment was just wonderful. The performers were young, energetic and well trained. So, thanks to Samara, (the singer), guitarist Jordi Heredia, dancer Isabel la Rusa, and the staff of the Nervion Restaurant at Princessa 2, just a few yards from the Jaume 1 metro station. At the end of the performance, a number of the diners went over to the performers and thanked them.
Montserrat - the guide books say if you take one side trip, make it Montserrat, So that?s what we did. It was a wonderful experience and urge you not to miss it. A few helpful hints, though. You start the trip at the Espania metro station. The commuter rail is on a different level, so look for the signs. There was only one manned booth, with about 15 tourists in line, and I joined them. The line was very slow, and finally we all realized that the letter ?i? above the booth meant information, not a ticket seller. The group moved en-mass to the other end of the station, where we found a ticket-computer. It took so long for the people in front to figure it out, a station attendant appeared to help out. The machine took my credit card, and I said ?Montserrat-round trip-funicular? to him. He punched the button, and out came my tickets. We got off at the Montserrat station and went to the cable car. About 10-12 people, including us, were told we were at the wrong station, and the next train wolud be in an hour. So we all bought another ticket for the cable car, and went up the mountain. And here?s the explanation. There are actually two Montserrat stations. One is ?Montserrat-aeri? and connects with the cable car. The next stop is ?Monistrol de M., which connects with the funicular, which is called ?cremallara?, which I think means zipper. (The third rail looks like a zipper). Who was to know that M. meant Montserrat, and zipper referred to the funicular? But it all worked out well in the end. There are connecting cable cars going to different levels of the mountain for hiking trails, or just stay where you are and visit the monastery and museum (excellent). A boys choir sings at 1pm, and as an added treat, a wedding was conducted while we were there! Must have been 600 or 700 tourists at the wedding. My wife and I had 8 people at our wedding.
Length of time - I?ve read a number of comments from people wondering if there is enough to do for 5-7 days. We were there 9 days, and were afraid we wouldn?t have enough time.
Bus Turistica. For 15 euro, you can have an all day pass, stopping at many tourist favorites. There are 2 lines, red and blue, or north and south. The ticket covers both. We took both tours, then visited just about all of the stops using the metro over the next 9 days. You can get off the bus at any stop, visit the area, and get back on another bus.
Last word. Most museums are closed sunday and monday, so plan accordingly. Have a great trip!
Paul
Airline travel. We had booked a flight on British Air many months ago, but they canceled it just before the flight. So we went to a travel agent to rebook. We learned that the flight would be cheaper if we stayed overnight in Paris using Ameican Airlines and Air France, so we leapt at it. Of course the savings evaporated when you factor in the hotel in Paris, tour guide etc, but we had never been to Paris, so we were very happy with it I mention this in case you may want to ask a travel agent about this feature.
Hotel. We used the Gallery Hotel. That?s about all that was left among our original choices when we tried to rebook. We were very happy with the hotel. It has no charm or ambiance of Spain, but it is a modern big city hotel, the room was spacious, clean, the staff was extremely efficient and helpful (and believe me, I had a lot of questions about transportation). I caught an error on the bill after returning home, e-mailed them, received an answer in two days, and a refund on my credit card. They are on the edge of Eixample area, and just off the Passeig de Grazia which has many tapas bars and restaurants, with 2 Metro stations neaby. It was a long walk to the end of the Rambla, which suited us fine. We heartedly recommend it.. We paid 170 euro a night, which did not include breakfast, Breakfast at the Galley is 14 euro each. (For comparison, we walked into the the Colon hotel, near the cathedral, to check the rates, and they wanted 220 euro).
Tour books. I used two books: ?Insight Pocket Guide to Barcelona?, which has an outstanding map of the city. Easy to read, and more important, the Metro stations are clealrly shown. The map was in tatters by the end of the trip. The book itself was ok, but I?m glad I had another, ?Must-See Barcelona?. This is an outstanding book, listing the 10 or 12 favorite tourist sites, and the Metro stops to use to get to each site. One thing to note: our book was published in 2000. We went to Montjuic, a tall hill which you can get to by funicular. The tour book had us go to the wrong station. If you go to Montjuic, and all tourists do, use the Paral-el station, which has a funicular line which must have opened after our book was published. This is included in the metro fare and takes you to the cable car ride (costs extra), which goes to the top.
Metro - this is the way to get around. You can buy single tickets from a ticket counter for 1.05 euro, or a 10 trip ticket from a computer in each station for 5.85 euro. The ticket is called T-10 and can be used by more than one person. The machine is easy to use. It will ask you what language to use, then, in the language you choose, ask what type of ticket you want, eg T-10, and how you want to pay for it. It takes bills, coins and credit card. The first time we used the metro, the door nearest to us would not open, forcing us to sprint for another door. I finally figured it out. Passengers open the doors themselves. Look for a handle in the middle of the door, and turn it. The door will swing open. As far as handicapped usage, there is an elevator in each station, but you have to descend at least one stairway to reach it. Also, each train car has an open area labeled for use by handicapped passengers, but the floor of the cars is about 4 inches above the station platforms. A wheelchair would have to be lifted to the car.
Breakfast and lunch - We found a delightful pastry shop across the street from the Gallery, and this was breakfast every day. The pastry shops in Barcelona have great pastry and coffee, and a seating area. For lunch, we had tapas, or bought pre-wrapped sandwiches, which are available at many news stands, pastry shops, tourist shops, etc. They are much cheaper than a restaurant, and very good.
Evening meals - This has been covered extensively on this board and chowhound.com, so I won?t critique every meal. But a few comments: we liked Tapa Tapa, on Passeig de Gracia, loved Qu Qu a block away on the same street, also for tapas. Most places have an English menu, or pictures on the menu of each tapa selection. Just point and eat. We liked Qu Qu so much, we went back several times. Caution - a pitcher of sangria on the Rambla was 25 euro; at Qu Qu it was about 6 euro. (A weaker version, though. After a pitcher on the Rambla we had to stagger back to the hotel). The Citrus restaurant next to Tapa Tapa was very good, Le Quinze Nits, in Plaza Real (sp?) just off the Rambla, was excellent, but a 90 minute wait. They open at 8:30pm, but the line forms at 7:30 and lasts until about 10.
Flamenco - this is not an area of Spain noted for flamenco, but it is available, probably for people coming off cruise ships who think flamenco is common throughout Spain. A club at Rambla 35 has it nightly. 25 euro for the show, and another 38 euro for a buffet if you want to eat. If a cruise ship has pulled in for the night, you won?t get in. We were walking past a bar/restaurant in the El Born area, when we noticed a sign - flamenco on friday nights. We went in and chatted with the owner. It seems he was from the Andalusian area of Spain, where flamenco was born, and loves the music and dancing so much he brings young flamenco entertainers in from Seville, where the schools of flamenco are located, on friday nights. He charges 25 euros fro the entertainment, which includes a 3 course meal and sangria or wine. We took a chance - and it was wonderful! Oh, ok, the food was so-so, the sangria was weak . But the entertainment was just wonderful. The performers were young, energetic and well trained. So, thanks to Samara, (the singer), guitarist Jordi Heredia, dancer Isabel la Rusa, and the staff of the Nervion Restaurant at Princessa 2, just a few yards from the Jaume 1 metro station. At the end of the performance, a number of the diners went over to the performers and thanked them.
Montserrat - the guide books say if you take one side trip, make it Montserrat, So that?s what we did. It was a wonderful experience and urge you not to miss it. A few helpful hints, though. You start the trip at the Espania metro station. The commuter rail is on a different level, so look for the signs. There was only one manned booth, with about 15 tourists in line, and I joined them. The line was very slow, and finally we all realized that the letter ?i? above the booth meant information, not a ticket seller. The group moved en-mass to the other end of the station, where we found a ticket-computer. It took so long for the people in front to figure it out, a station attendant appeared to help out. The machine took my credit card, and I said ?Montserrat-round trip-funicular? to him. He punched the button, and out came my tickets. We got off at the Montserrat station and went to the cable car. About 10-12 people, including us, were told we were at the wrong station, and the next train wolud be in an hour. So we all bought another ticket for the cable car, and went up the mountain. And here?s the explanation. There are actually two Montserrat stations. One is ?Montserrat-aeri? and connects with the cable car. The next stop is ?Monistrol de M., which connects with the funicular, which is called ?cremallara?, which I think means zipper. (The third rail looks like a zipper). Who was to know that M. meant Montserrat, and zipper referred to the funicular? But it all worked out well in the end. There are connecting cable cars going to different levels of the mountain for hiking trails, or just stay where you are and visit the monastery and museum (excellent). A boys choir sings at 1pm, and as an added treat, a wedding was conducted while we were there! Must have been 600 or 700 tourists at the wedding. My wife and I had 8 people at our wedding.
Length of time - I?ve read a number of comments from people wondering if there is enough to do for 5-7 days. We were there 9 days, and were afraid we wouldn?t have enough time.
Bus Turistica. For 15 euro, you can have an all day pass, stopping at many tourist favorites. There are 2 lines, red and blue, or north and south. The ticket covers both. We took both tours, then visited just about all of the stops using the metro over the next 9 days. You can get off the bus at any stop, visit the area, and get back on another bus.
Last word. Most museums are closed sunday and monday, so plan accordingly. Have a great trip!
Paul
Oct 5th, 2003, 01:11 PM
#2
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 4,204
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Thank you Paul, for the wonderful trip report! Sounds like you had a great time. I plan to put it in my files for future trips.
The only thing I didn't like about your trip report was that BA canceled your flight! We have tickets with them to Malaga in Nov. and now I'm a bit nervous...but of course worrying isn't going to help anything, is it?
And I agree--I could easily spend 9 or more days there (many more in fact)!Again, thanks for your report.
The only thing I didn't like about your trip report was that BA canceled your flight! We have tickets with them to Malaga in Nov. and now I'm a bit nervous...but of course worrying isn't going to help anything, is it?
And I agree--I could easily spend 9 or more days there (many more in fact)!Again, thanks for your report.
Oct 5th, 2003, 05:19 PM
#4
Original Poster
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 158
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Whoops - made an error. It was American Airlines that cancelled. Never understood why. They claim the flight never existed. The travel agent said I made the reservations so far ahead, the flight was only in the planning stage and never materialized. I wonder if the travel agent made the mistake and wouldn't own up to it. But it all turned out well in the end. It was a great trip.
Paul
Paul
Oct 23rd, 2003, 06:19 PM
#5
Original Poster
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 158
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
One last thing. The 10 days of walking what seemed like 10 hours a day touring Barcelona had another good effect. I had my physical last week, and lost 7 pounds and my cholesterol was down 40 points!
Oct 23rd, 2003, 07:48 PM
#6
Join Date: Oct 2003
Posts: 19
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Paul,
Thanks for your report. I was in Barcelona for 3 days this past July and just loved it and hope to get back there again soon.
However, I have to say that your comment that Flamingo is not from this part of Spain but they have it because people from cruise ships think it is. That's rather rude and makes the assumption that all people who take cruises are idiots and know nothing about the places they travel to.
One can find ignorant people anywhere they go, no matter what style of travel they prefer.
Thanks for your report. I was in Barcelona for 3 days this past July and just loved it and hope to get back there again soon.
However, I have to say that your comment that Flamingo is not from this part of Spain but they have it because people from cruise ships think it is. That's rather rude and makes the assumption that all people who take cruises are idiots and know nothing about the places they travel to.
One can find ignorant people anywhere they go, no matter what style of travel they prefer.
Oct 23rd, 2003, 10:14 PM
#7
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 341
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
PaulH,
excellent trip report! Nicely organized and I learned some nice things for when I return.
Molly806, I don't think Paul's comments were rude and I think you overstate his intent. It's quite possible that Paul meant Most, not all, of cruise ship travelers are idiots, an observation which does not deviate too far from the truth ;-) . Plus, you forgot to mention that the cruise ship hospitality board is pushing this Flamenco thing all day on the boisterous loud speaker from the Lido deck.
For me, it's dry land from now on!
excellent trip report! Nicely organized and I learned some nice things for when I return.
Molly806, I don't think Paul's comments were rude and I think you overstate his intent. It's quite possible that Paul meant Most, not all, of cruise ship travelers are idiots, an observation which does not deviate too far from the truth ;-) . Plus, you forgot to mention that the cruise ship hospitality board is pushing this Flamenco thing all day on the boisterous loud speaker from the Lido deck.
For me, it's dry land from now on!
Oct 24th, 2003, 11:48 AM
#8
Original Poster
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 158
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Sorry I offended you, Molly. I have lived in and visited Spain numerous times over 40 plus years, and these are my observations. Also, the last time I walked past #35 Rambla (the flamenco restaurant) I was asked by a group from a cruise ship if there were any other flamenco shows in the city; their fellow cruise members had filled the place up.
Oct 24th, 2003, 01:27 PM
#9
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 519
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Great report, Paul.
Just a quick tip; there's a restaurant very near Placa Reial (where Quinze Nits is) that is owned by the same family and has basically the same menu, it is called "La Fonda". It doesn't have any outside seating, but the line there starts later. Incredible value! Just avoid the tempation of going next door to "Los Caracoles". That's a huge rip-off!
About the Flamenco shows, they are indeed directed at cruise ships (that's why you usually find them on La Rambla, near the port). We may discuss whether they're "authentic" or not, but it is a fact that their main source of business comes from the ships. I mean, if you are on a cruise, and the only place you'll see in Spain is Barcelona, it kinda makes sense to have a Flamenco show there, doesn't it?
Just a quick tip; there's a restaurant very near Placa Reial (where Quinze Nits is) that is owned by the same family and has basically the same menu, it is called "La Fonda". It doesn't have any outside seating, but the line there starts later. Incredible value! Just avoid the tempation of going next door to "Los Caracoles". That's a huge rip-off!
About the Flamenco shows, they are indeed directed at cruise ships (that's why you usually find them on La Rambla, near the port). We may discuss whether they're "authentic" or not, but it is a fact that their main source of business comes from the ships. I mean, if you are on a cruise, and the only place you'll see in Spain is Barcelona, it kinda makes sense to have a Flamenco show there, doesn't it?
Thread
Original Poster
Forum
Replies
Last Post
zekieboo
Europe
5
Jul 9th, 2003 03:16 PM
