offwego

Greetings

Will be in Barcelona for 10 days and are thinking to take a side trip to Collioure. After reading many posts, I've decided this looks like the best option. Unless someone begs to differ... We want to sit on a terrace cafe, eat seafood, drink wine, look at the water and do a little boutique shopping.

My questions:

I can't decide whether to drive or take the train. There are 4 of us so the train would be more comfortable and probably faster (3 hours by train) but which is more scenic? Has anyone ever taken the train along this route? (Barcelona to Portbou-Portbou to Collioure) I can't seem to find a route map to see if the train moves inland or if you get to see any of the coast on the way. Or is this stretch of the coast worth seeing?

Secondly, I can only seem to find what looks like rather dumpy 2-3 star hotels in Collioure. Was looking for something a little nicer since we will have our moms along. Any recommendations? I think so far the Bon Port Hotel looks like the best of the lot.

Opinions?
Thanks!

offwego

topping for another try.

PalQ

I believe the train line and road follow basically the same path somewhat along the sea for a stretch out of Barcelona but then far inland - the train but not the freeway returns to a bit of coastal trajectory just before Port Bou - that is the fastest car route, the autoroute - taking more minor roads along the sea would pass thru fine villages like Cadaques but this route would take ages to drive thru. Either by train or car you may be tempted to stop of at Figueras and take in the astounding and bizarre Dali Museum/House. Trains stop here regularly.

kelly001

I would highly discourage you from the Hotel Bon Port. It is a tourist trap with shoddy rooms (the musty smell in our room was very unpleasant). But more than anything the owner is dishonest and after quoting us 95 euros over the phone for one night, she charge us 135 euros when we left. Having no receipt as the reservation had been done entirely over the phone a day before our arrival, we had to endure her rude and disconcerting attitude. The room we stayed in was not worth 95 euros to start with, so when she pulled the wool over our eyes on top of it, we were highly disgusted. This kind of extremely mediocre and overpriced hotel is not worth risking such an ordeal.

Maribel

offwego,
We stayed at the rather expensive, upscale 4 star Relais des Trois Mas Hotel and gourmet restaurant La Balette overlooking Collioure (that postcard picture of the town) because our first choice, the nice Relais du Silence property, Casa Pairal, was booked for our dates.
www.hotel-casa-pairal.com
www.relaisdetroismas.com

We did check the Casa Pairal, and this is where I would return. Neither of the two above is a dumpy property!

We drove, taking the extremely serpentine -more curves than you want to count- but unbelievably scenic coastal route. Very time consuming.
I suggest that you drive but that you take the fast A7-E15. As PalQ says, the train route isn't coastal all the way.

When I return, I'll dine at Les Templiers, the Collioure institution, which has an amazing art collection from Picasso to Dufy to Maillol to Matisse (Collioure was home to the Fauvists), and I'll return to have another evening at La Balette. Our dinners there were superb, and the view from the terrace just enchanting.

And there are more boutiques, pottery shops, wine cellars and terrace cafés in Collioure than you can count. At the tourist office you can pick up a carte guide des vignobles du Roussillon, which will guide you to all the vineyards for sampling.

It is virtually impossible to park in the town during the summer (by 9:30 a.m. all parking spots are taken!), but if you're headed there in the fall, you shouldn't have a problem.

offwego

thanks Maribel for this great info.