Barcelona /Costa Brava/Madrid Itinerary
Feb 24th, 2004, 09:35 AM
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Barcelona /Costa Brava/Madrid Itinerary
Hi!
My husband and I are going to Spain at the end of April/beginning of May for 9 nights, flying in and out of Madrid (using frequent miles!). On arrival, we're flying immediately on to Barcelona, where we're staying for 3 nights. We're arriving on April 23, which is "Lovers' Day", and sounds like a fun time to be there. We've never been to Barcelona, so we're eager to see all the Gaudi sights, architecture, and just experience the city. Right now we have reservations at the Hotel Colon, and have requested a room with a terrace overlooking the cathedral, but I've been reading a lot of not-so-great things about the Colon, so I'm thinking of changing to the Hotel Omm, which sounds pretty cool. I haven't been able to find much feedback about the Omm, though, because it's quite new.
Then from Barcelona, we're planning to rent a car and drive up to the Costa Brava area, where we've booked at the Mas de Torrent for 3 nights. While there, we'd like to see Girona, the Dali sights, shop for pottery, and relax.
Next is where I need some input. We're heading toward Madrid (driving), and wanted to stop somewhere on the way overnight. I really wanted to stop in Cuenca and stay at the parador, but I realize that it is not exactly on the way to Madrid, and is about a 7-hour drive from Torrent.
We do like driving, so that's not really a problem, but that doesn't allow much time to stop and see anything along the way. Any suggestions for a better overnight stopover between the Costa Brava and Madrid?
In Madrid, we will be staying at the Villa Real, where we stayed last year and loved it. It's in a great location for the museums, tapas bars, etc. Only 2 nights in Madrid, but it's Friday and Saturday night, so it should be lively, and to me, Madrid is all about eating and strolling around at night!
I appreciate any input or suggestions!
Thanks,
Marcy
My husband and I are going to Spain at the end of April/beginning of May for 9 nights, flying in and out of Madrid (using frequent miles!). On arrival, we're flying immediately on to Barcelona, where we're staying for 3 nights. We're arriving on April 23, which is "Lovers' Day", and sounds like a fun time to be there. We've never been to Barcelona, so we're eager to see all the Gaudi sights, architecture, and just experience the city. Right now we have reservations at the Hotel Colon, and have requested a room with a terrace overlooking the cathedral, but I've been reading a lot of not-so-great things about the Colon, so I'm thinking of changing to the Hotel Omm, which sounds pretty cool. I haven't been able to find much feedback about the Omm, though, because it's quite new.
Then from Barcelona, we're planning to rent a car and drive up to the Costa Brava area, where we've booked at the Mas de Torrent for 3 nights. While there, we'd like to see Girona, the Dali sights, shop for pottery, and relax.
Next is where I need some input. We're heading toward Madrid (driving), and wanted to stop somewhere on the way overnight. I really wanted to stop in Cuenca and stay at the parador, but I realize that it is not exactly on the way to Madrid, and is about a 7-hour drive from Torrent.
We do like driving, so that's not really a problem, but that doesn't allow much time to stop and see anything along the way. Any suggestions for a better overnight stopover between the Costa Brava and Madrid?
In Madrid, we will be staying at the Villa Real, where we stayed last year and loved it. It's in a great location for the museums, tapas bars, etc. Only 2 nights in Madrid, but it's Friday and Saturday night, so it should be lively, and to me, Madrid is all about eating and strolling around at night!
I appreciate any input or suggestions!
Thanks,
Marcy
Feb 24th, 2004, 10:54 AM
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marcy_,
Did you consider these two Eixample hotels?: the catalan designer done Derby Claris (owner is an Egyptologist and it has a collection of Greek/Roman art besides the contemporary furnishings) or the more traditional Condes de Barcelona, which is located right on the Passeig de Gracia? The Omn and the Prestige Passeig de Gracia are the newest "hip/trendy" entries in the Eixample, but I haven't had any feedback at all on them.
I hope you enjoy the R & C Mas de Torrent. I've never stayed but have driven by several times and stopped once, and it looks very inviting, even if it's not on the sea.
About your drive from Torrent to Madrid:
It sounds like you'd rather have a small city rather than large, and that you want to push further than Zaragoza.
The straight drive down from Zaragoza can be rather boring, scenery wise unless you detour from the well-trodden path.
Cuenca is a fascinating provincial capital, BUT it would be a detour south, and the drive from Torrent would take 6 1/2 hrs.
Sigüenza and its castle Parador make a nice overnight (very sleepy town mid-week but has an impressive cathedral with beautiful alabaster statue of El Doncel (Isabella's page), nice artisans' shops (they made furniture, jewelry, bota bags there) lovely stone buidlings with steep cobblestone streets and a grandiose Parador with really plush, baronial dining room. Downside:
It's a 6 hr. drive from Torrent.
Another possibility: the Monasterio de Piedra in Nuévalos, a detour from the
Zaragoza-Madrid autoroute, but it's a more modest dwelling in a beautiful park setting with water, water everywhere (lots of weddings here).
www.monasteriopiedra.com
It's only 2 1/2 hrs. from Madrid.
Did you consider these two Eixample hotels?: the catalan designer done Derby Claris (owner is an Egyptologist and it has a collection of Greek/Roman art besides the contemporary furnishings) or the more traditional Condes de Barcelona, which is located right on the Passeig de Gracia? The Omn and the Prestige Passeig de Gracia are the newest "hip/trendy" entries in the Eixample, but I haven't had any feedback at all on them.
I hope you enjoy the R & C Mas de Torrent. I've never stayed but have driven by several times and stopped once, and it looks very inviting, even if it's not on the sea.
About your drive from Torrent to Madrid:
It sounds like you'd rather have a small city rather than large, and that you want to push further than Zaragoza.
The straight drive down from Zaragoza can be rather boring, scenery wise unless you detour from the well-trodden path.
Cuenca is a fascinating provincial capital, BUT it would be a detour south, and the drive from Torrent would take 6 1/2 hrs.
Sigüenza and its castle Parador make a nice overnight (very sleepy town mid-week but has an impressive cathedral with beautiful alabaster statue of El Doncel (Isabella's page), nice artisans' shops (they made furniture, jewelry, bota bags there) lovely stone buidlings with steep cobblestone streets and a grandiose Parador with really plush, baronial dining room. Downside:
It's a 6 hr. drive from Torrent.
Another possibility: the Monasterio de Piedra in Nuévalos, a detour from the
Zaragoza-Madrid autoroute, but it's a more modest dwelling in a beautiful park setting with water, water everywhere (lots of weddings here).
www.monasteriopiedra.com
It's only 2 1/2 hrs. from Madrid.
Feb 24th, 2004, 12:47 PM
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Maribel,
Thank you so much for your informative reply, and also, thank you for previously sending your files--they are VERY helpful!
As far as Barcelona hotels, I had ruled out the Claris because I didn't think it was worth the price difference. Also, since we're already planning to stay at one of the Derby hotels (the Villa Real- in Madrid), we'll already be seeing some of their art collection.
What is really hard for me to tell, not having been there, is what is the most convenient/comfortable location to stay? At first I thought it would be the Barri Gotic, but the more I read about it, the more I think that I would rather visit there during the day, but wouldn't like walking around there at night. So now I'm thinking the Eixample sounds better. Is being right on the Passeig de Gracia the best location, in your opinion? Is that a place where we would feel comfortable walking around at night?
I think we would be happy with the Omm, the Prestige Passeig de Gracia, or theCondes de Barcelona, but I'm leaning toward one of the first two. I guess I'm in the mood for "hip & trendy"! Maybe what decides which of those two to stay in will be whether the spa is going to be open yet at the Omm! A massage might be a good selling point after a long day of walking!
As far as the drive from Torrent to Madrid, do you think the route South toward Valencia is a more interesting drive than going the Zaragoza route?
Thank you so much for your informative reply, and also, thank you for previously sending your files--they are VERY helpful!
As far as Barcelona hotels, I had ruled out the Claris because I didn't think it was worth the price difference. Also, since we're already planning to stay at one of the Derby hotels (the Villa Real- in Madrid), we'll already be seeing some of their art collection.
What is really hard for me to tell, not having been there, is what is the most convenient/comfortable location to stay? At first I thought it would be the Barri Gotic, but the more I read about it, the more I think that I would rather visit there during the day, but wouldn't like walking around there at night. So now I'm thinking the Eixample sounds better. Is being right on the Passeig de Gracia the best location, in your opinion? Is that a place where we would feel comfortable walking around at night?
I think we would be happy with the Omm, the Prestige Passeig de Gracia, or theCondes de Barcelona, but I'm leaning toward one of the first two. I guess I'm in the mood for "hip & trendy"! Maybe what decides which of those two to stay in will be whether the spa is going to be open yet at the Omm! A massage might be a good selling point after a long day of walking!
As far as the drive from Torrent to Madrid, do you think the route South toward Valencia is a more interesting drive than going the Zaragoza route?
Feb 24th, 2004, 12:56 PM
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Continuing my previous entry: ( I hit POST before I meant to)
The Monasterio de Piedra looks interesting if we take the Zaragoza route.
One other question : While staying in Torrent, we were hoping to be lucky enough to get reservations at ElBulli for dinner (Us and 300,000 others, apparently), but not surprisingly, they didn't have any openings. Have you known anybody who has actually managed to go there? We're going to keep checking back-- you never know!
Thanks again for the input!
Marcy
The Monasterio de Piedra looks interesting if we take the Zaragoza route.
One other question : While staying in Torrent, we were hoping to be lucky enough to get reservations at ElBulli for dinner (Us and 300,000 others, apparently), but not surprisingly, they didn't have any openings. Have you known anybody who has actually managed to go there? We're going to keep checking back-- you never know!
Thanks again for the input!
Marcy
Feb 24th, 2004, 03:41 PM
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Hi marcy_
I had a severe brain cramp! Of course, you'll see some of the Egyptologist's collection because you're staying at the Derby Villa Real in Madrid! (duh...)
marcy, given your refined taste in hotels (I love all your choices), I think you would prefer the Eixample as a more upscale, attractive (all that pretty Moderniste architecture), tidy and safe location than the Barri Gotic. But that's my highly subjective, very personal opinion, after having stayed in both. If you're a Mas de Torrent-Villa Real type, I think you're an Eixample type.
My honest opinion is that while the area immediately in front of the Hotel
Colòn is perfectly fine, both day and night,
and it's a classic Old World style hotel, a Bcn institution, that appeals to many, particularly for those pricey balcony views of the cathedral, nevertheless, there are areas of the Ciutat Vella that are just less pleasing, more rafish, some even sketchy. Of course, they're easily avoidable by always sticking to the well trodden path, but in the Eixample, I just don't worry at all or need extra vigilance for my personal safety. I even carry my handbag.
I promise that you will feel very comfortable on the Passeig de Gracia (retail heaven), and you'll also be within walking distance of some fine dining venues right there or within a few short blocks. For luxury gourmet, there's Drolma in the Hotel Majestic, for upper moderate, María Cristina next to La Pedrera or El Principal of the Tragaluz group, for fun, lively and inexpensive/budget, Tenorio or El Trobador, for Basque pintxos, there's Txapela and for tapas, Ciudad Condal or Cerveseria Catalana, just to name a few.
If you're in the mood for "hip and trendy", I'd lean towards the Omm. The Prestige Passeig de Gracia seems more pared down minimalist to me. I like very much the restaurants that the Tragaluz group does, especially El Principal and Agua at the Port Olimpic.
About the drive from Torrent to Madrid through Valencia, that would signifcantly increase your driving hrs. I don't think you want to spend even more hrs. on the road.
And definitely not for just 1 night.
Compared to your other lodging choices, the Monasterio de Piedra will be more modest (just 2 gables in the Michelin red), but it's a slightly more "doable" choice for something midway between. I personally wouldn't relish that long haul from Torrent to Sigüenza or Cuenca.
The other option would be the Parador in Alcañiz (3 Michelin gables), that would require a detour, but still more midway in between. Look at the "photo album" for the public rooms and bedrooms on www.parador.es, and see what you think. It has parlor suites.
About the super famous El Bulli:
Yes, I do acually know a person or two who have dined there since the NY Times Sunday magazine did the front cover article.
But they're Basque chefs!
I really strongly suggest that you go to
www.egullet.com and read (skim!!-you'll be there for hrs!) the staggering volume of posts about El Bulli (pro and con) and the art of snagging that elusive table there. I think perseverance and flexibility are the key. Would the Mas de Torrent concierge be able to wave his/her magic wand for you?
If not, as a substitute, head to "the much talked about by the foodies" Alkimia or Comerc 24 in Bcn as a Ferran Adrià substitute. The chef at Comerc 24 worked with super chef Adrià for twelve years.
Good luck!
I had a severe brain cramp! Of course, you'll see some of the Egyptologist's collection because you're staying at the Derby Villa Real in Madrid! (duh...)
marcy, given your refined taste in hotels (I love all your choices), I think you would prefer the Eixample as a more upscale, attractive (all that pretty Moderniste architecture), tidy and safe location than the Barri Gotic. But that's my highly subjective, very personal opinion, after having stayed in both. If you're a Mas de Torrent-Villa Real type, I think you're an Eixample type.
My honest opinion is that while the area immediately in front of the Hotel
Colòn is perfectly fine, both day and night,
and it's a classic Old World style hotel, a Bcn institution, that appeals to many, particularly for those pricey balcony views of the cathedral, nevertheless, there are areas of the Ciutat Vella that are just less pleasing, more rafish, some even sketchy. Of course, they're easily avoidable by always sticking to the well trodden path, but in the Eixample, I just don't worry at all or need extra vigilance for my personal safety. I even carry my handbag.
I promise that you will feel very comfortable on the Passeig de Gracia (retail heaven), and you'll also be within walking distance of some fine dining venues right there or within a few short blocks. For luxury gourmet, there's Drolma in the Hotel Majestic, for upper moderate, María Cristina next to La Pedrera or El Principal of the Tragaluz group, for fun, lively and inexpensive/budget, Tenorio or El Trobador, for Basque pintxos, there's Txapela and for tapas, Ciudad Condal or Cerveseria Catalana, just to name a few.
If you're in the mood for "hip and trendy", I'd lean towards the Omm. The Prestige Passeig de Gracia seems more pared down minimalist to me. I like very much the restaurants that the Tragaluz group does, especially El Principal and Agua at the Port Olimpic.
About the drive from Torrent to Madrid through Valencia, that would signifcantly increase your driving hrs. I don't think you want to spend even more hrs. on the road.
And definitely not for just 1 night.
Compared to your other lodging choices, the Monasterio de Piedra will be more modest (just 2 gables in the Michelin red), but it's a slightly more "doable" choice for something midway between. I personally wouldn't relish that long haul from Torrent to Sigüenza or Cuenca.
The other option would be the Parador in Alcañiz (3 Michelin gables), that would require a detour, but still more midway in between. Look at the "photo album" for the public rooms and bedrooms on www.parador.es, and see what you think. It has parlor suites.
About the super famous El Bulli:
Yes, I do acually know a person or two who have dined there since the NY Times Sunday magazine did the front cover article.
But they're Basque chefs!
I really strongly suggest that you go to
www.egullet.com and read (skim!!-you'll be there for hrs!) the staggering volume of posts about El Bulli (pro and con) and the art of snagging that elusive table there. I think perseverance and flexibility are the key. Would the Mas de Torrent concierge be able to wave his/her magic wand for you?
If not, as a substitute, head to "the much talked about by the foodies" Alkimia or Comerc 24 in Bcn as a Ferran Adrià substitute. The chef at Comerc 24 worked with super chef Adrià for twelve years.
Good luck!
Feb 24th, 2004, 05:57 PM
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Thanks again, Maribel, for sharing your wealth of knowlege with me!
I think we will try the Omm in Barcelona. The Eixample does sound like a neighborhood I could learn to like. (Although I am having a slight pang at giving up watching the sardana from my balcony.)
Still working on where to stop enroute from Torrent to Madrid. Your ideas will keep me busy checking websites for a while! I'll keep you posted.
I went to the eGullet website and was overwhelmed by the volume of entries about El Bulli. I agree with your conclusion-- the bottom line seems to be-- keep on trying!
I will check with the concierge at the Mas de Torrent - -It can't hurt.
Maribel--Many, many thanks for your fabulous and articulate advice!
I will post a trip report when we return.This should motivate me to keep the detailed journal that I always intend to keep but never do.
Marcy
I think we will try the Omm in Barcelona. The Eixample does sound like a neighborhood I could learn to like. (Although I am having a slight pang at giving up watching the sardana from my balcony.)
Still working on where to stop enroute from Torrent to Madrid. Your ideas will keep me busy checking websites for a while! I'll keep you posted.
I went to the eGullet website and was overwhelmed by the volume of entries about El Bulli. I agree with your conclusion-- the bottom line seems to be-- keep on trying!
I will check with the concierge at the Mas de Torrent - -It can't hurt.
Maribel--Many, many thanks for your fabulous and articulate advice!
I will post a trip report when we return.This should motivate me to keep the detailed journal that I always intend to keep but never do.
Marcy
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