Sue4

I've only been back a couple of days, but want to start this while things are fresh on my mind - what a wonderful trip! First, thanks to everyone on this forum who helped so much with all my planning - the advice given on here is really invaluable. So many things - where to stay, directions to places, restaurants, driving advice - all extremely helpful. Thanks a million! I'll try not to get too detailed, and just stick to highlights, if possible.

First, plane arrived at CDG ON TIME, which was important to me,as I had a PREM ticket (25 euros) on TGV to Avignon. Plane arrival time 9:40, train departure 11:24. I was happy I took that Prem risk! Loved the train ride, sat across from a lovely French woman who invited me to come to Toulon so she could take me around the area. She insisted on giving me her name and phone number. A good start with the French coridiality! I took the shuttle from TGV station to Avignon, (very easy) where I taxied to my hotel in Villeneuve-les-Avignon - Le Priere.
Hotel is lovely, and I would highly recommend. Hotel is fairly expensive, but I had the only single room, (which is a bargain), a darling little oval room overlooking the beautiful dining garden. The hotel has a wonderful restaurant, where I splurged and ate twice (worth it!). That first afternoon I just walked around Villeveuve to get oriented, picked up some "goodies" at the patisserie to eat back in my lovely room. I managed to stay awake til 10:00, which was some doing!

Thursday and Friday, first 2 full days, I spent seeing the sights in Avignon and Villeneuve. It was easy to get the bus from Villeneuve to Avignon, where there is a stop near the bridge and Porte which leads to Popes Palace. I highly recommend Villeneuve as an option for the Avignon area. It's a pretty village, slower-paced, easy to get in and out of with car. Perfect base for the western Provence area. Friday afternoon I took the shuttle to TGV station to pick up my car. I definitely wouldn't want to have a car inside the gates of Avignon, but the outside ring road is fine - only a LITTLE confusing.

Saturday morning headed to the Pont du Gard, which is so amazing. By the way,the weather is gorgeous, sunny, a little cool, blue skies. Later on I drove to Uzes, where I didn't really have enough time. Would like to go back there sometime when I wasn't worried about finding my way back "home". Remember, this was my first day of driving!
In Villeneuve, would like to mention the beautiful Abbey Gardens up at Fort Andre. So gorgeous and peaceful with beautiful views of Rhone, Avignon, etc.

Sunday A.M.: checked out of hotel (which by the way, had a great breakfast, even including scrambled eggs, sausage, etc.) I headed to L'sle-sur-le-Sorgue for the market, and got there early enough to find easy parking. Enjoyed wandering around with the crowd, eating pizza (one thing I love about these markets) in the little park listening to the band. Then I'm off to drive to the Luberon where my next hotel is - Lourmarin. I go first to the Fontaine de Vaucluse, which was beautiful and wasn't crowded with people. Then drove by Gordes on way to Senanque Abbey. Didn't stop in Gordes, but view from road is gorgeous (I stopped to gape). Unfortunately, didn't get to tour the Abbey, as they make you take a guided tour, and I just missed it. Sunday afternoon is a bad time to go there, as they don't open until 2:00, and everyone is driving that scary road at once. Maybe not scary for all you people out there, but yes for me (South Florida person that I am). Anyway, I had to find my way to Lourmarin, all alone on these winding up-and-down roads!

At this point I will digress a little bit with my only negative feelings about France!
The drivers! The roads are wonderful, well-maintained and marked, and I adore the "round-a-bouts", which give you an excuse to slow down, and praise God, even STOP sometimes!. But those drivers up on your tail, speeding around the winding roads, itching to pass you going 100 miles an hour are hard on the nerves! Well, I made it back home alive, and even got used to it. It's great having a car in Provence, and I'm glad I did it that way, though. But I must say, I enjoyed the driving in Burgundy (I did that in October) better. Being solo, trying to drive AND navigate, and being a "woman of a certain age" isn't the easiest.But it's fun, and rather empowering!

I think I'm being a little too "wordy" with this report, which I didn't intend to do.
Anyway, I enjoyed the next 3 nights near Lourmarin. Stayed at the Hotel de Guilles, which is a "Mas" on the Route de Vaugines, and a beautiful property. I took the "half-board", which turned out to be great, as their dinners were delicious. Plenty of variety on their menu each day, and for me, it was nice not to have to go out again at night after driving around sightseeing all day. The room was pretty basic, but had a lovely view of the countryside. This hotel would be nice in the summer, with a pretty pool area. Will continue later with my next stop - 5 nights at my wonderful little B&B in St. Etienne du Gres - the Presbytere St. Thomas.

gracejoan

I was with you all the way...I have driven it all...also spent 5 nights at R & C Prieure in Villeneuve-les-Avignon in a lovely balconied room overlooking the outside dining...have great memories of outside evening dining there. Nice place......

cigalechanta

Sue, that was my room! Did you pick up the postcard showing how attractive it was. Too bad they couldn't show the toilet Is Mme Mille still putting fresh flowers in the rooms?
Welcome back.

Sue_xx_yy

Sue4

I didn't find it at all 'wordy' if by wordy you mean boring. More, please!

PamSF

Great trip report! Where did you pick up the shuttle to the TGV station? We had considered picking up our rental car in downtown Avignon as it seemd like a schlep to the TGV station. Which station did you reserve from for pick up?

Sue4

Cigale, I KNEW that was your room! Your postings are one of the reasons I chose that hotel - thanks! Yes, there are still fresh flowers in the room. I didn't meet Mde. Mille, but her son Francois was always around, very much in charge.

Pam, the shuttle bus was so easy to pick up, not far from the Tourist Office - they pointed the way for me. I think it was from in front of the post office. They have a little schedule of time, which I got on the first shuttle, but I'm sure the TI would have it. The fare is only 1.10 euros. It was easy to pick up the car (and return it) at the TGV station, I used Avis. The car rental is on the North (I think) side of the station, but signs telling you how to get there- just a quick walk outside down some stairs, and there you are. The shuttle is picked up and dropped off on the opposite side of the station.

Sue4

Pam, I want to clarify one thing - if you are in a hurry, or it's real early in the morning, you might not want to bother with the shuttle. I was leisurely about it, so it worked out great for me. But I definitely think the car pick-up would be easier at the TGV station regardless - even if you had to take a taxi to get there.

Well, back to some more of my trip. Before I leave the Luberon, a few more things. I had a great little guidebook put out by an American couple who have a house in Lourmarin. They give you some great driving itineraries, walks, restaurant recs, etc. You can order the book on www.provencebyways.com. I had it well in advance of my trip, so studied for ideas, and definitely used it! Another thing I'll say, and not mention again, is the weather. Absolutely gorgeous the whole 2 weeks - I think May must be the perfect time in Provence - cool at night, sunny, with blue skies everyday. A light jacket was perfect in the early part of day. The last 2 days it turned hot in day, but was still gorgeous. While in the Luberon, I saw Lourmarin and its chateau, drove to Ansouis, and had a guided tour of its fantastic chateau, which has been owned (and lived in by the same family (Sabrans) since 950!
Also loved Rousillon, and walked down to the ochre mines. Drove through Bonnieux, but didn't stop - it looked pretty, but was crowded, and I didn't see any place to park.

Wednesday: I'm off to St. Etienne (near St. Remy) for the next 5 nights.
I had a beautiful drive, stopped along the way at the Abbey de Silvercane, and enjoyed, especially since I hadn't toured Senanque. Very peaceful and quiet, without all the tourists. Stopped along the way for a little picnic lunch with stuff I had brought along. As I drove through Paradou, I stopped at the Bistrot du Paradou to make a reservation for lunch the next day. Then I arrived around 3:00 PM at the wonderful little B&B in St. Etienne.

I think this was the "piece de resistance" of Provence for me! Such a delight to drive up to this charming little, old "chapelle" attached to the Curate's house. Beautiful roses and other flowers all around the yard, and greeted so warmly by Marie-Chantal. This was my first ever experience at a B&B, and I wonder if this was an exception to the norm. She was so charming and hospitable, and I immediately felt so much "at home". My room was on the ground floor, which opens out onto the precious garden of "roses extraordinare" where she serves breakfast. The room was big, filled with beautiful things, all kinds of books, heirloom linens on the bed, a great bathroom, and even a little bottle of Bordeaux ready for me. There was a little table & chairs by the window to have breakfast if it was too cool for the garden (which it was a couple of days. Anyway, it was heavenly, and her dog, Ballou, was the icing on the cake. She keeps him on her side of the place, and he's very well-behaved (about 1 1/2 or 2 years old), but I made such a fuss over him, that he in turn did the same to me! He's a big, beautiful mutt (of which I have 2 at home, and was missing at the time), so I loved it when he was outside when I returned, and escorted me to my room.
She also had a gentle, old, deaf German Shepherd, who, distressingly, was hit by a car when I was there, and died. She had taken him in about a year ago, abandoned. So sad, but at least she
had had a happy last year.

I hated to leave the lovely room, but headed out to St. Remy (about a 12 minute drive away) to look around, and get acquainted. I didn't want anything fancy for dinner, so Marie had recommended the Cafe de la Commerce across from the church, frequented by locals, inexpensive, very Provencal food.

Thursday: After lovely breakfast overlooking the garden (Marie serves beautiful melon with strawberries, orange juice, basket of croissants, bread, etc., with the most wonderful selection of homemade jams, and the best coffee of whole trip) - I headed to Les Antiques and Glanum for the guided tour. After that, I was just in time for my lunch reservation at the Bistrot du Paradou.

And I must say, I loved it! The food was wonderful, and I loved the ambiance of the place. The waiters were so cute and nice (casual place). I think the lunch was 38 euros, which included a bottle of wine. There have been discussions about this place on this forum, and I would say, GO! They are now serving dinner on Wednesday and Saturday nights, in case anyone needs to know that. Formerly were closed for dinner until June. After lunch, I drove to the Abbey de Montmajour, then to see the fortified Chateau at Tarason. A busy, but delightful day.

Friday: Off to Les Baux. I got there early so parking wasn't a problem. This is certainly a "must see" in Provence.
Fascinating place with gorgeous views.
Many tourists, but big enough for everybody. Had a nice lunch there and at outdoor place, then decided to go to Beaucaire to see the "Aigles de Beaucaire" thing.
The chateau is all in ruins, but the park grounds are lovely, and the birds of prey show was great - They had 4 "falconiers" handling them, and it was a very interesting thing to see, and you could see the bird up close in their enclosures after the show. I got a little upset at seeing those magnificent birds "in captivity", but enjoyed the show, anyway. They had bald eagles, huge owls, condors, falcons, etc. I was very tired after this day, and had a picnic in my room for dinner.
My reading material on this trip was "Le Divorce", which was great at night in France (I haven't seen the movie).

Saturday: The Camargue today, one of my favorite days! I was going to skip this, but was SO glad I didn't. It's really beautiful, and I really loved the Parc de Orthonilogique(sp ?) Seeing the hundreds of flamingoes, all talking up a storm, flying around with their beautiful rose-colored underwings, in their natural habitat, was quite an unforgettable experience. I spent alot of time there, and decided I'd like to spend a few days in the Camargue at a "Mas" another time. Then I drove to Aigues Mortes. An interesting wall-fortified town, worth seeing, but very touristy. The square in the middle of the town is very beautiful. Had dinner in St. Remy at the Gousse d'Ail, which was good, especially the "entree" and the dessert. The lamb main dish didn't compare with the lamb at the Bistro du Paradou, though. More later.

cigalechanta

I am so enjoying your report. I'm leaving out of the house but will check in later to hear more. Sue, one year we stayed a night at the Mas de Peint in the Camargue, owned by the dashing much photographed Mr. Bon.

Underhill

Fine report--makes me feel like I'm back in Provence.

ninasdream

Captivating report- thank you! I am just beginning to explore France, and only had a few days in Provence, so this is wonderful. Please share more when you have time. So glad you had good weather. Welcome home.

sandi

I'm enjoying this report so much. Makes one feel they're right there were with you. And I just loved your comments about the French drivers, especially if you're not used to having some car on your tail every time you check that mirror - you eventually drive as fast as they do, or just get used to it. Waiting to hear more.

LarryJ

Sue,

Enjoying your reports. I am going to base in St Remy for 7 days in mid-July and you have given me a couple of ideas to pursue. One question: I am going to take the shuttle bus from Avignon TGV into Avignon Centre. Does the shuttle stop at the bus station where I can get the bus to St Remy? I too will rent a car for a few days at the TGV station but don't want to do it upon arrival. Like to hear more about Uzes and the Camargue.

Larry J

4totravel

Sounds like a lovely trip! How was the travelling alone? It sounded as if it was very peaceful...but did you miss having someone there to share it all with? Just curious. I applaud you.

PamSF

Oh how your report makes it all so vivid. We have reservations at Presbytere St Thomas in October and have a day trip planned to the Camargue as well. Your description of the flmaingoes made me wish to be there now! Lastly, what a great read for your trip to France..think I'll scoop up a copy of Le Dovirce as well...I like her as an author and have not seen the movie either. Your "wordiness" becomes you.

Sue4

Thanks for all the replies - this is really fun! Cigale, did you like the Mas de Peint? I read a wonderful magazine article about it.

Larry, I think that the Shuttle just stops at the Avignon Station, but I think that the bus station might be quite close. Someone else might be able to answer that for you. Cigale probably knows where the bus station is. If you like "nature", you will love the Camargue. I first stopped at the little Camargue Museum, which isn't very far out of Arles. It has some exhibits, etc. which explain about the Camargue and how it was formed. Then I stopped to see the Chateau d'Avignon, which I didn't get to tour, as they were closing for a hour when I got there, and I didn't want to wait. Anyway, I decided I have seen plenty of Renaissance chateaux before! I drove all the way down to Sainte Marie de la Mer, as I had missed the turnoff for the "Bird" park, but didn't want to take the time to look around Sainte Marie, either, as I had heard it isn't too much. But the Bird Park is wonderful, with trails to walk around. They say that early morning or late afternoon is the best time to see the birds in the Camargue. I was there in the middle of the day, and saw plenty. I didn't make it even halfway around the trails, but was there a couple of hours, mostly enjoying the flamingoes.
You can also see the wild white horses and bulls while driving along. But that is a little difficult because of the speeding cars on your tail! That is why I would like to stay at least a day and night down there, to soak it in. As for Uzes, it looked lovely, and would be fun to wander around. I really didn't stay long enough to do that, as I was worrying about making it back to Villeneuve without getting lost (that was my first day of driving, and I had spent alot of time at the Pont du Gard.)

And to 4toTravel, yes, it would be wonderful to have someone along to share, but only the "right" someone, with the same interests. I really enjoy traveling alone, and doing just what I want to do, with no discussion or arguments about it! I never thought I would do this driving type of thing alone, but after driving in the Loire Valley and Burgundy alone, I decided I really love it this way. People are so nice when you are by yourself, and I have never felt lonely. I would prefer eating dinner with someone else, though.
By the way, my children (grown) think I'm nuts to want to do this! I have also done some tours in the past, which were fun, but I like this better, and will only resort to the tours later - when I have to.

Back to the rest of report.
Sunday: Spent the whole day in Arles.
The Museum of Old Arles first, which gives you a good overview of Roman Arles. Then I drove back to closer to the center and parked to see the other sights - St. Trophime Church, the Roman Arena (SO impressive!),etc. Had lunch outside at the Place du Forum. I didn't expect much at this cafe, but lunch turned out to be the most delicious roasted chicken imaginable.

I liked Arles, but had one incident which was a little disturbing. Four young boys (about age 14, I guess) started harassing me, blowing things through straws to hit me!). This started near the church square, and they continued to follow me through a deserted pedestrian street which leads up to the Place du Forum. At first I was laughing, but then I actually started to get scared, as they were going overboard, and I wasn't sure how much further to the end of this deserted street. They didn't really look like hoodlums (but with behavior like that were well on their way). Anyway, I saw a little hotel and ducked in there to get away from them. I explained to the receptionist there why I came in. She was very sweet, and told me I had done the right thing. I guess they were just bored boys having fun on a Sunday afternoon(at the "old" tourists expense!), but it soured me a little bit on Arles. It shouldn't have, because Arles is a great town. I saw many,many school aged kids in France, and have always thought how darling, well-behaved and polite they all are, many making a point to say "bonjour, madame!"

Monday: My last lovely breakfast at the wonderful Presbytere, and Marie allowed Ballou in the garden while I ate and talked to her (and to him!). I was so touched by this place,her kindness, and by her pride in making it so enjoyable and perfect.
She had been divorced after 25 years of marriage, found this run-down property a few years ago, fixed it up - and was living there with her grown son. While I was there, there was also a Belgian couple staying for 12 days, and a darling young American couple from Nashville for 3 nights. Marie doesn't speak English, but I was able to communicate quite well with my limited French, and loved doing that. Even with no French, it still would have been fine. That young couple spoke no French, and loved this place. She did ask me to convey to Marie how happy they were with it. I actually got teary-eyed as I drove off waving to Marie and Ballou.

My destination that day was Vaison-la-Romaine, with a stop in Orange to see the Roman Theater (well worth the stop -a great audioguide tour). Drove through some beautiful countryside and wine villages up to Vaison. Stopped for a little while in Seguret (beautiful perched village). It was completely dead there at 1:00 - I was dying for a coke, with no luck. Lovely, but definitely not a tourist village.

Arrived in Vaison in the early afternoon, and found my way to the Medieval Village (up high) where I was staying at another B&B, L'Eveche. It was the "Bishop's House", and huge. A Parisian couple had bought it, and also had an art gallery across the street. They had 6 or 7 rooms for the B&B. It was quite a nice place, but much more impersonal than the other place, smaller room, different feeling. But I wouldn't hesitate recommending anyone to stay there, and the people were very nice. I loved the old city to walk around in. The newer part below is where the Roman ruins are located, and they were wonderful to see. I was also there for the Tuesday market, which is quite a sight!

Wednesday: Drove through beautiful countryside back to Avignon to turn in car at the TGV station, and train to CDG, where I was spending the night. The train was totally packed (it was a 2-story duplex) - I was told that the next day, Thursday, was a holiday - so I guess everybody was getting an early start for a 4-day weekend. I enjoyed the train ride, just staring out the window at the beautiful French countryside - especially the area north of Lyon (Beaujolais and Burgundy) with the green rolling hills, sheep, and white Charolais cows. My last night was at the Courtyard Marriott at CDG. It's fairly new and very nice, with a good restaurant (a little over-priced, but good). And back to the good old USA the next morning!

JeriB

Wonderful travel report, thanks so much for taking the time to share. We leave the end of June for a wedding in Germany, then on to Arles for 5 nights. The only problem with your report is it ALL sounds so good. We're still planning our day trips and doubt that the Camargue will fit in. So much Provence so little time!

hopingtotravel

Am really enjoying the report. Also being a woman of a certain age am glad you were successful with the driving. In my case my husband drives and I navigate but I'm glad to know it's doable if I ever wanted to do it alone. Loved your descriptions of the places you stayed.

georgygirl

I'm new to this board, but in planning a trip to France this fall, I've been reading alot of the posts. I really enjoyed your report, as Provence is one of the places we want to go. How did you find the B&B you liked so much?

Sue4

Georgy Girl, my 2 B&B's are listed on the www.avignon-et-provence.com website, which is a great site, by the way. However, before I chose them, I saw some good personal recommendations on this forum for both of them.

cigalechanta

we loved the Montmajour(founded in 948 by Benedictine monks on the edge of Arles.)The bones of this structure that has survived all these years is impressive.