This is for any of you who are interested in our trip to Turkey. Our plane was delayed in Zurich for 1 day so we only had 2 days in Istanbul. On Tuesday we went to the spice bazaar and Mosque next door. Took a $8.00 cruise on the Bosphorus for 3 hrs. Stopped at Rumeli castle for an hour and had a great lunch at La Grotto. Back by 3:00 and went to Dolmabahce palace for an hour tour. From there we took a cab to Taksim sq. Skip that, it was really noisy dirty and junky. We had tea at the Pera Palace hotel. Again I was not impressed. We stayed at the President hotel, nothing special but good value. Walked down the hill to Kumcapi for a very nice fish dinner and people watched. The area was hopping. Next day we took a day tour with a company that services the Hilton guests and went to the Blue Mosque, St. Sophias, The Cistern and a Museum depicting how Turkish people lived the last 100yrs. Went to a carpet store to have rugs explained, most everyone then walked down to the grand bazaar for 1 and a half hours. We stayed at the carpet store, Lapis and bought a beautiful carpet. After lunch, we spent the afternoon at Topkapi and finished about 5:00 by going to Suleyman Mosque. Nothing was real indept, but then we're not Turkish scholars so an overview of everything was just fine. After the tour was over we walked to the Grand Bazaar for 1 and a half hours on our own. That was plenty of time to get irritated and buy a few things. We took a cab to Ortakoy for dinner and had a great time walking around shopping. Great little galleries all over with nice stuff. Had grilled lamb chop dinner at little cafe for $3.00! Left around 11:00 and took cab to the 4 Seasons for a drink. That was that for Istanbul, but really we saw most of everything we wanted to see. Took a flight next morning to Ankara. Was picked up by tour guideat airport and went to Musuem of Anatolian civilations, and Memorial for Ataturk. Very impressed with both sites, was led to believe there was nothing to see in Ankara. After lunch drove to Cappadocia. Stayed at the Dedeman resort. Again it was okay. When we go back and I hope we do I'll stay in converted Ottoman houses and Cave hotels. Heres something that turned out great. We signed up for tours in Cappadocia an Ephesus before we left. The least expensive was bus tours with up to 15 people. Guess what, we were the only people on the tour so we had a guide driver and 15 seat air conditioned bus all to ourselves! Next morning we went to the Goreme open air Museum, cave churches, rock formations and beautiful valleys. We toured a Onyx factory and a pottery factory. I asked our guide to take us to a carpet factory where they spin the silk and dye the yarn to weave carpets. It was amazing. Back at the hotel my husband had his 2nd turkish bath,1st one in Istanbul the ist day. Had a late dinner and fell asleep. Next day, on the way back to Ankara airport we went to the Underground cities and the camel caravan. All in all, Cappadocia was really great. WE flew from Ankara to Antalya and went to the old city that night. I love that place, the harbor is beautiful. Had a lovely dinner at a resturant called Kirk Merdivan. Next day at noon Pasha Tours picked us up at the hotel and took us to the Gulet at Setur Marina. Its Sunday and the Marina had a little beach, and some shops and a resturant. Spent the day swimming in the mediterranean and meeting everyone. There is Captain, a cook and a wonderful kid who I called our babysitter named Murat. There are 5 Germans who were just wonderful and another American couple fom San Francisco. We had tea at 5:00 and a delicious lamb stew for dinner at 8:00. After dinner we decided to take a cab back to Antalya since we liked it so much. We made a deal with the cabbie to pick us up later, and he would not take money from us until he brought us back. By the way did I mention how nice all the Turkish people we met were? They really are wonderful. Back at the Gulet at 11:30 and the lights were out, and everyone was sleeping on deck on sun mats with there pillows and blankets. That was the best, just like summer camp and you can't believe hoe gorgeous the stars are. About the rooms. They are very small and stuffy, the bathrooms are fine but like all of Turkey you can't flush toilet paper. They did empty the baskets everyday though. Next morning we had a typical Turkish breakfast and took off. We stopped in coves and jumped off the boat and swam in the ocean. After lunch we went to Olimpos to hike up a mountain to see fire shooting out of rocks randomly. The ride to the mountain was a trip! A 10 yr. old boy driving a tractor with a truckbed for us hooked on back. Chickens and goats running around the dirt paths. I could say I wasn't in Kansas anymore and guess what? I live in Kansas! At the base were some Moslem women with an upside down wok cooking pancakes over an open fire. Murat bought some stuffed with potato and cheese for us to have with tea back on the boat. We watched the sun go down and relaxed on deck till dinner which was chicken and spaghetti. Sat around drinking Fanta and beer, (a german concoction) it was good. Anyway we all sat around talking and about 10:30 grabbed our blankets and pillows and hit our sun mats for another glorious nite under the stars. Next morning we started for Demre and Myra, but when we got there we decided as a group that they wanted to much to transport us to town,$20.00 a person so the captain took off for Kale. What a beautiful sea side village. Exactly what you imagine a Med village will look like. Terraced homes with flowers and vines and intricate carved wooden doors and an old castle and fortress on top. Great time. Back to the boat for lunch and on to Kekova Island for the sunken cities. A glass bottom boat came for us and we went out to see the sites. Pretty cool and then that skipper gave us snorkel equipment so we could jump off the boat and look around ourselves. We tied up to an island that looked like something out of the bible with all these olive trees and a family of goats living there, no people- for the nite. Murat and the cook put out nets to catch fish for the next nites dinner. Had a dinner of Kofte (meatballs) with potatos and peas,salad and rice. Everyone played games tonite. One bad thing, the mosquitos are fierce, but the bug repellent worked. Back to sleep under the stars. Wednesday is our last day, we are being replaced by French people, the germans want us to stay. We travelled about 2 hours and arrived at Kas. Left the boat and wandered around. Bought some gifts and had a tailor measure me and sew me a blouse in 30 minutes for $15.00. I love this place! After lunch on the boat and saying our goodbyes the Pasha people picked us up to take back to antalya airport for our flight to Izmir. We had to fly thru Istanbul,but it was no big deal and we were in Izmir by 8:00. The hotel is the Mercure Konak right on the water. Next day we were picked up at 9:00am and left for Ephesus. I told you it turned out to be a private tour and we saw the Virgin Marys house, Ephesus and the Museum in Seljuk. Lunch was included and since we were alone we asked the guide to take us to some outlet stores in Seljuk we had heard about. Can you imagine, as if the stuff in Turkey isn't cheap enough? Anyway, Ephesus was incredible. Back in Izmir we went to the Kordon and ate at the Deniz resturant and walked along the waterfront. Our last day we went to the bazaar in Izmir. I was disappointed, it was all junk and I wanted to do some last minute shopping. Back at the hotel, the concierge told us to go to Alcansak and the area was much nicer with cool little galleries and sidewalk cafes. WE spent our last evening there. All in all it was the best trip i have ever taken, because everything was so varied. Also, I just want to say a day in Zurich was great. If anyone wants to know any specifics , I'm here and waiting to help.

really a shame you couldn't go into more detail!

Thanks for your wonderfully detailed report! I'll be off to Turkey in less than 2 months, and it's wonderful to hear about your experiences. And very helpful to hear about the nasty mosqitos; I'll remember to pack that insect repellant.<BR>Paule

Great report, I am going to print it out and use it for future reference. It was extremely nice of you to take the time to share all those wonderful details and some genuinely useful information... ho hum... might be upset because this actually has to do with travel... and not trolls... but it's truly great thanks again and welcome back!

Mary, thanks so much for your report. I'm planning a trip to Turkey and can use *all* the details I can get!

Hi, I just read all your responses and am very happy you or most of you enjoyed them. I'm still a little jet lagged, and the report seemed so long anyway. Basically, you guys will have an incredible experience in Turkey, no matter what you do, or see because there is so much history and activity there.

I'm just back a week from my trip to Europe, and have been thinking about where to go next. You're wonderful report is going to get me thinking about Turkey. I'm going to print this out for reference. Thank you. See how you can affect lives?

Mary, your trip sounded wonderful. We hope to go there next September (2002). We only saw the area from Marmaris to Kas last time around, and we'd love to see Istanbul and Cappadocia. <BR><BR>Re the mosquitoes - we ended up buying something that could be plugged into the wall in our hotel room and it really worked well. <BR><BR>How did you book your gulet cruise? <BR><BR>Re the Turkish bath, we had 1 in Fethiye and loved the experience. I've already told my husband that I'd like to have one again as soon as we arrive in Istanbul after a long flight. Sounds like your husband had the same idea. <BR><BR>The carpets are amazing, aren't they? I know that some people don't like the hard sell, but they are so beautiful. In Fethiye I went into a carpet store to look at pillows. When the owner asked if he could help, my husband immediately said, "yes, we're looking for a carpet" - this after the 2 of us agreeing that we wouldn't be buying a carpet!<BR><BR>I can't wait to go back.

Hi Susan, We booked our Gulet thru Pasha Tours, mainly because 1, they offered 3 day cruises out of Antalya and we knew we could get there easily, 2, the price was very reasonable, 3 they had a good reputation with US travel agents and thats who I talked with and 4, they're brochure was really informative. Also check Key tours and Blue Voyage. If you want luxury, and a price to match try a Turkish company called Credo. I was really impressed but they were a little too much for us. All these companies have web sites. Good Luck!

Mary,<BR><BR>Thank you so much for the detailed report of Turkey. We go in September-maybe the mosquitos won't be so bad then. Please tell me if you saw or heard anything to make you feel that Turkey was not safe place to visit or in any way made you uncomfortable. This is not for me as I have been before and<BR>absolutely loved it but for someone going with me who wants to be reassured.

Wow -- I love your report. It was very "stream-of-consciousness" and it made me want to go there.

Hi Katherine, My husband has a mens clothing store and I have a torn knee, so no way was I going to follow him around looking at leather coats, which is one of his favorite activities in Bazaars. I gave him an hour and a meeting place and took off. Not for one minute did I feel unsafe anywhere I went. I saw many modern looking women eating alone in resturants in Istanbul and Izmir and it didn't look like anyone was hassling them. I spoke to men in shops that Had something I wanted and said no thank you to those who were soliticing me and had no problems. By the way, I'm 49, no babe but I'm not a dog either (I don't think) but all the Turkish people we met were very respectful and friendly even the pushier salesmen. I really can't think of one time I felt unsafe with or without my husband. Just take the same precautions you would take at home and you should have no worries.

Hi Mary, I was just searching around Fodor's website for hotels in Turkey when I decided to check out any advice. You seem to have a wonderful time in Turkey - and we just booked an 18 day honeymoon in Sept/October. I am wondering if you have any advice on the area between Maramis and Antalya. We have four days between Rhodes and leaving Antalya for Istanbul. I've hear Antalya is not worth staying for, but you seem to disagree. I was thinking about two to three days in Oludeniz or Kas, and then on to Antalya. Do you know of any hotels or fun things to do? I've heard of the sunken city...but trying to find some information. Also heard that the Gorge is great to see. Just wondering if you have any advice. Many thanks, Jamie Howard, NYC, USA.

Jamie, as I mentioned in an earlier note, we spent a week going from Marmaris to Kas. That area is wonderful. We took a bus from Marmaris to Fethiye and ended up staying 2 nights there. We then took a bus to Kalkan. I know that lots of people really like Kas, but I preferred Kalkan - mind you, we didn't stay in Kas, just took a day trip. Kalkan is beautiful - I think it's definitely prettier than Kas. We had 4 nights there and then went back to Olu Deniz for a night before going back to Greece. <BR><BR>We took a 1 day boat trip - saw Kekova and visited a town which had a castle. (I can't remember the name of the town.) The trip was a lot of fun. We stopped a few times to swim and had lunch on the boat. We also went to Patara for a day - Patara is a beautiful, incredibly long beach. There are limited facilities there and there's a small admission (because it's a park). It's not far from Kalkan. Fethiye has a nice market area - since we weren't going to Istanbul on this trip, we enjoyed it. We also took in a Turkish bath in Fethiye, a fun experience in a 400 year old building. Olu Deniz is beautiful, but it's very touristy, lots of British tourists. We noticed that people were going hang gliding from there, if you're interested in that kind of thing. <BR><BR>We stayed in a small pension in Kalkan, but there is a beautiful complex called Club Patara nearby. We took a water taxi over there a couple of times to use the pool. They also have these wonderful platforms over the sea with deck chairs and umbrellas. The complex is a hotel and condos, and is quite lovely - it seems to be really well integrated into the hillside.<BR><BR>We had some wonderful dinners in Kalkan, another reason I liked that town so much! <BR><BR>I can't wait to go back to Turkey.

Hi Jamie, Listen to Susans advice. We did not get to Fethiye or Marmaris this trip and I emphasize This trip, because I plan on going back to see more! Antalya is a large resort town, but the old city is so charming with winding cobblestone streets that lead down to a lovely harbor ringed by sidewalk cafes. The Turk Evi is a hotel there that is a converted ottoman home or mansion and its so romantic. There is a ton of nice resturants, like Kirk Merdivan that have grapevine and floral canopies, the foods great and very cheap. The surrounding area has some wonderful side trips like Duden falls, and the ancient towns of Termessos, Perge and Aspendos. Our Gulet went as far as Kas and it was a nice little town, with good shopping. Kalkan is probably more picturesque as Kas really was not. The village Susan is talking about with the castle on top is Kale, and I fell in love with that place. The flowers and architecture of the homes is just beautiful. The view of the Med from the castle is just unbeleivably gorgeous. We met some honeymooners in Antalya who hired a gulet for just them for 3 days doing Marmaris to Fethiye and they loved it. You need to keep looking at this web site and buy yourselves some good travel book like Frommers Turkey or Lonely Planet and just search the web under Tours in Turkey, to give you info and advice. Good luck on your upcoming wedding and have a wonderful honeymoon. I think you've picked the perfect place to spend it.