B&B in Scotland
Dec 30th, 2010, 02:40 AM
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B&B in Scotland
We're planning a road trip through northern Scotland in May and are interested in advice on good B&Bs. We'll be staying in some larger cities such as Edinburgh and Aberdeen but also smaller places like Fort William, Inverness, Invergarry and the islands including the Orkneys, Skye and the Western Islands. We like places that have some atmosphere but we don't want to be tripping over old prams full of teddy bears every time we get out of bed or garrotting ourselves on the curtains round the four poster. We can't afford top of the range prices and are hoping to find places around the 90 - 120 pound mark. I look forward to your responses!
Dec 30th, 2010, 03:52 AM
#2
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I think tripping around old prams full of teddy bears is pretty much a US phenomenon, though it may be another trend crossing the Atlantic.
General rant: I have had to give up on B&B's and "quaint New England country inns", even the ones in California, because the smell of potpourri and bayberry candles makes me ill, if I wanted to be around a dog or cat I would own one, and I am for medical reasons on a low carb diet, so I can't appreciate your waffles, muffins, or scones.
I have had very good luck looking to the local tourist authority offices in Scotland and England, all of which have been happy to find me places that meet my requirements AND offer a proper fry-up breakfast (I have very low cholesterol, thank you).
The Scots in my experience, are not much on twee, and other than a frequently regrettable taste in upholstery fabric and fitted carpets, you are less likely to have the problem that you worry about than in the US.
General rant: I have had to give up on B&B's and "quaint New England country inns", even the ones in California, because the smell of potpourri and bayberry candles makes me ill, if I wanted to be around a dog or cat I would own one, and I am for medical reasons on a low carb diet, so I can't appreciate your waffles, muffins, or scones.
I have had very good luck looking to the local tourist authority offices in Scotland and England, all of which have been happy to find me places that meet my requirements AND offer a proper fry-up breakfast (I have very low cholesterol, thank you).
The Scots in my experience, are not much on twee, and other than a frequently regrettable taste in upholstery fabric and fitted carpets, you are less likely to have the problem that you worry about than in the US.
Dec 30th, 2010, 06:54 AM
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For Edinburgh, adult daughter and I stayed in Elderfield Guest House. We thought it a very lovely B&B. Our bedroom looked straight out onto Arthurs Seat and we were only a 10 min. walk to Holyrood Palace, Scottish Parliament and the Royal Mile. Rates were reasonable at 64 GBP per night and included a nice breakfast. Decor was beautiful and matched the setting of being in a house built in the 1800's. The hostess, Maureen, was extremely helpful in helping us find our way around, with lots of great tips.
http://www.guest-houses-edinburgh.com/index.php
http://www.guest-houses-edinburgh.com/index.php
Dec 30th, 2010, 07:00 AM
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Ditto what Ackislander said about Scottish B&B's. More down to earth than twee. But the people are very warm and welcoming. Here's a useful website: www.visitscotland.com. Note the prices are often per person per night rather than per room. You can also look at www.smoothhound.com and www.theaa.com;I think the latter runs a bit more expensive.
How long do you have? You've listed a lot of destinations. Maybe if you narrow things down a bit, you'll get more suggestions. Conventional Wisdom says both Fort William and Inverness are less attractive places to stay.
How long do you have? You've listed a lot of destinations. Maybe if you narrow things down a bit, you'll get more suggestions. Conventional Wisdom says both Fort William and Inverness are less attractive places to stay.
Dec 30th, 2010, 07:43 AM
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Good G-d are you really going to stay a night in six places other than Edinburgh? Can't you combine some of those?
And who's "we"? You and spouse/partner/SO or are there little people you and/or spouse made who are tagging along or perhaps old people who resemble you and/or spouse/ptr, etc?
[Where're Janisj and shiela on this -- they have Scotland maps hardwired in their brainpans?]
We stayed at Daviot Lodge (I think -- 'twas 6 years ago) outside Inverness and it's more than decent and well within your price range. No need to stay IN Inverness because anything you'll want to do in the area is outside the town (other than pittering around before dinner in town or buying Scotch). Go to Dunrobin Castle -- way overlooked because folks in the area want to go to the Culloden battlefield or Clava Cairns or Cawdor Castle (we did all that too), but Dunrobin is easily worth a visit.
We also stayed at the Maryculter House Hotel outside Aberdeen for our castle visits in Aberdeenshire. Good accommodation, easy access to Aberdeen if you need it, but it's west of the city, which is good for castle touring.
In Edinburgh, Elderfield Guest House is a bit off the beaten path -- near Arthur's Seat and a 10-minute walk to the tail end of the Canongate end of the Royal Mile isn't particularly convenient. Yes, you likely will and should visit The Palace of Holyrood House and the Scottish Parliament building is worth a laugh -- talk about a complete eyesore, architectural farce, and construction fiasco (although naturally the chattering fools awarded it various prizes -- see here for more http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fraser_Inquiry). You should stay more on the High Street/North Bridge area that's closer to the Castle, Princes Street, the gardens, various museums, St. Giles, etc.
Note that "guest house" is Scottish for a larger B&B (about 6-10 rooms, B&B's in Scotland are 1-5 rooms).
And who's "we"? You and spouse/partner/SO or are there little people you and/or spouse made who are tagging along or perhaps old people who resemble you and/or spouse/ptr, etc?
[Where're Janisj and shiela on this -- they have Scotland maps hardwired in their brainpans?]
We stayed at Daviot Lodge (I think -- 'twas 6 years ago) outside Inverness and it's more than decent and well within your price range. No need to stay IN Inverness because anything you'll want to do in the area is outside the town (other than pittering around before dinner in town or buying Scotch). Go to Dunrobin Castle -- way overlooked because folks in the area want to go to the Culloden battlefield or Clava Cairns or Cawdor Castle (we did all that too), but Dunrobin is easily worth a visit.
We also stayed at the Maryculter House Hotel outside Aberdeen for our castle visits in Aberdeenshire. Good accommodation, easy access to Aberdeen if you need it, but it's west of the city, which is good for castle touring.
In Edinburgh, Elderfield Guest House is a bit off the beaten path -- near Arthur's Seat and a 10-minute walk to the tail end of the Canongate end of the Royal Mile isn't particularly convenient. Yes, you likely will and should visit The Palace of Holyrood House and the Scottish Parliament building is worth a laugh -- talk about a complete eyesore, architectural farce, and construction fiasco (although naturally the chattering fools awarded it various prizes -- see here for more http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fraser_Inquiry). You should stay more on the High Street/North Bridge area that's closer to the Castle, Princes Street, the gardens, various museums, St. Giles, etc.
Note that "guest house" is Scottish for a larger B&B (about 6-10 rooms, B&B's in Scotland are 1-5 rooms).
Dec 30th, 2010, 08:09 AM
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An elegant B&B north of Aberdeen in a neoclassical house with fabulous furniture and pictures is www.cairnesshouse.com.
Dec 30th, 2010, 11:34 AM
#9
Reporting for duty 
Just a couple of very quick comments -- >><i>We can't afford top of the range prices and are hoping to find places around the 90 - 120 pound mark.</i><<
I have never paid anywhere near £120 for a straight B&B and don't think I could find a £120 B&B (except for some 4-5 star castles w/ accommodations). Even staying someplace truly unique like Traquair House is only about £170 a night double.
Above average B&Bs are found all over the country for £60-£80-ish. So your budget is very generous. Except for in Edinburgh where rates will run higher- but even there you can still find VERY nice places for £80-£100.
I would 100% not stay IN either Inverness or Ft William. One is a busy commercial/shopping centre for most of northern Scotland but there are 50 nicer places to stay w/i 25-30 miles. The other is literally a town jam packed w/ dozens of tourist grade B&Bs w/ <u>nothing</u> else to recommend it. There is no 'there' there. Like I'ness -- there are many lovely places not far from Ft William if you need to stay over in that general area.
You have a pretty ambitious itinerary - how many days in total?
Just a couple of very quick comments -- >><i>We can't afford top of the range prices and are hoping to find places around the 90 - 120 pound mark.</i><<
I have never paid anywhere near £120 for a straight B&B and don't think I could find a £120 B&B (except for some 4-5 star castles w/ accommodations). Even staying someplace truly unique like Traquair House is only about £170 a night double.
Above average B&Bs are found all over the country for £60-£80-ish. So your budget is very generous. Except for in Edinburgh where rates will run higher- but even there you can still find VERY nice places for £80-£100.
I would 100% not stay IN either Inverness or Ft William. One is a busy commercial/shopping centre for most of northern Scotland but there are 50 nicer places to stay w/i 25-30 miles. The other is literally a town jam packed w/ dozens of tourist grade B&Bs w/ <u>nothing</u> else to recommend it. There is no 'there' there. Like I'ness -- there are many lovely places not far from Ft William if you need to stay over in that general area.
You have a pretty ambitious itinerary - how many days in total?
Dec 30th, 2010, 12:59 PM
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Wow, what terrific responses. Thank you all. It's just two of us travelling, no oldies or littlies or tag alongs, so we only have ourselves to please.
Sadly the teddy bears have migrated to Australia, Ackislander, so be warned!
I know the itinerary looks ambitious but we have about three weeks to a month. The idea is to do a loop from Edinburgh to the Orkneys and back down through the Western Islands and Skye and then cross over to Belfast for a further month - but that's another story. Our interests on this trip are photography and ancient sites.
Our only firm plan is to spend a few nights in Edinburgh before collecting a car and driving to Aberdeen to get the ferry to the Orkneys where we'd stay maybe three nights before coming back down the western coast. I haven't decided where to stay exactly but just picked some names out along the route that sort of broke up the journey into do-able sections. Good accommodation and your advice will help us decide where to stop.
Sadly the teddy bears have migrated to Australia, Ackislander, so be warned!
I know the itinerary looks ambitious but we have about three weeks to a month. The idea is to do a loop from Edinburgh to the Orkneys and back down through the Western Islands and Skye and then cross over to Belfast for a further month - but that's another story. Our interests on this trip are photography and ancient sites.
Our only firm plan is to spend a few nights in Edinburgh before collecting a car and driving to Aberdeen to get the ferry to the Orkneys where we'd stay maybe three nights before coming back down the western coast. I haven't decided where to stay exactly but just picked some names out along the route that sort of broke up the journey into do-able sections. Good accommodation and your advice will help us decide where to stop.
Dec 30th, 2010, 01:11 PM
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What are ancient sites? If you're American, that can mean anything over 100 years old. If you're from a modern Southern city, that could mean anything over 25 years old (seriously, houses older than 10 are "OLD" here). If ancient means Celtic stuff, there's plenty along the coast from Aberdeen to Inverness IIRC. If it means castles, that means Aberdeenshire, Edinburgh, Stirling, among others.
And driving down from the Orkneys to Inverness means you'll pass Dunrobin Castle (they should have me on retainer for this) and Glenmorangie Distillery so check into visiting both.
Belfast for a month is out of my ken . . . but I could think of more interesting ventures. Personally, I'd vote Scotland over Ireland every day and twice on weekends.
And driving down from the Orkneys to Inverness means you'll pass Dunrobin Castle (they should have me on retainer for this) and Glenmorangie Distillery so check into visiting both.
Belfast for a month is out of my ken . . . but I could think of more interesting ventures. Personally, I'd vote Scotland over Ireland every day and twice on weekends.
Dec 30th, 2010, 01:37 PM
#12
OK - 3-4 weeks is fine. You'd be amazed - we often get folks planning a trip from Edinburgh to Inverness to Orkney to Skye to Mull to Ft William - "<i>Oh, and we have 8 days total including travel days and want to spend 3 days in Edinburgh</i>" 
That is why I asked.
I might suggest not taking the ferry from Aberdeen. That is a long (and expensive for the car) journey. You can take a ferry from a couple of harbors at in Caithness - the voyage will take a fraction of the time and cost much less.
http://www.pentlandferries.co.uk/
http://www.northlinkferries.co.uk/Ti...imetables.html
You could still visit the east coast/Aberdeenshire/Deeside if you want -- but enroute to and through Inverness to the north.
Edinburgh > Fife > Deeside > Speyside/Inverness > Caithness > Orkney > the NW coast > Skye > Invergarry > Glencoe > possibly Mull > Perthshire/the Trossachs would be doable in 3 weeks -- and even MORE doable w/ 4 weeks.
That is why I asked.
I might suggest not taking the ferry from Aberdeen. That is a long (and expensive for the car) journey. You can take a ferry from a couple of harbors at in Caithness - the voyage will take a fraction of the time and cost much less.
http://www.pentlandferries.co.uk/
http://www.northlinkferries.co.uk/Ti...imetables.html
You could still visit the east coast/Aberdeenshire/Deeside if you want -- but enroute to and through Inverness to the north.
Edinburgh > Fife > Deeside > Speyside/Inverness > Caithness > Orkney > the NW coast > Skye > Invergarry > Glencoe > possibly Mull > Perthshire/the Trossachs would be doable in 3 weeks -- and even MORE doable w/ 4 weeks.
Dec 30th, 2010, 01:41 PM
#13
"<i>What are ancient sites?</i>"
You are kidding - right?
Dunrobin is nice but ancient it ain't.
Places like Clava Cairns, Camster Cairns, Hill o' Many Stanes, Skara Brae, Ring of Brodgar -- those sorts of sites . . .
You are kidding - right?
Dunrobin is nice but ancient it ain't.
Places like Clava Cairns, Camster Cairns, Hill o' Many Stanes, Skara Brae, Ring of Brodgar -- those sorts of sites . . .
Dec 30th, 2010, 01:50 PM
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We stayed here and had wonderful service. They went way above and beyond. (www.ardgarryguesthouse.co.uk) It is 10 minutes from grocery store, self service laundry and downtown. Johnny Fox pub is a great place for entertainment. Also 10 minutes away by foot. Went there 3 different times and always had great band and singers. Food is normal pub grub. Not bad, not great.
Dec 30th, 2010, 02:02 PM
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Big Russ, ancient to me means neolithic - hence the Orkneys. Seeing Skara Brae was the idea that got me started on planning this trip. I'm an Aussie where the land is as ancient as they come but I do hear where you are coming from in terms of what we see as old - our dominant culture is even younger than the Americans and we're busy preserving stuff that's fifty years old! Thanks for the advice on castles though because I'm certainly also interested in broader historical periods.
Caithness sounds like the go then janisj. I was never particularly committed to Aberdeen. I'll look closely at your itinerary - perhaps add in a few days and go across to Stornaway on the way back down as well. Thanks very much for the advice.
Caithness sounds like the go then janisj. I was never particularly committed to Aberdeen. I'll look closely at your itinerary - perhaps add in a few days and go across to Stornaway on the way back down as well. Thanks very much for the advice.
Dec 30th, 2010, 02:43 PM
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While Dunrobin Castle is not ancient ( 19th c.) it and its gardens are worth a visit. For more ancient sites in Caitness, there's the Grey Cairns of Camster near Lybster and the Hill o' Many Stanes just south of Wick. I believe there are also a couple of brochs near Lybster and just south of Keiss. Less well known is Whaligoe Staircase about ten miles or so north of Lybster. North of Wick are the 15th century ruins of Sinclair and Girnigoe Castle.
For places to stay, perhaps the best would be Forss Country House Hotel www.forsshousehotel.co.uk It had a v. good restaurant too and is just west of Thurso. In Thurso there is the Royal Hotel.
The ferries for Orkney leave from Scrabster a few miles north of Thurso or you can take the Pentland ( see janis j's notes, websites) from John O' Groats which is about ten miles from Thurso. The Pentland Ferry crossing is shorter but crosses the Pentland Firth which can be a bit wild and woolly. I survived although I confess I was praying to St. Columba on the return journey. Just don't plan on staying or spending any time in John O' Groats.
Note: It's Orkney or Orkney Islands not Orkneys
For places to stay, perhaps the best would be Forss Country House Hotel www.forsshousehotel.co.uk It had a v. good restaurant too and is just west of Thurso. In Thurso there is the Royal Hotel.
The ferries for Orkney leave from Scrabster a few miles north of Thurso or you can take the Pentland ( see janis j's notes, websites) from John O' Groats which is about ten miles from Thurso. The Pentland Ferry crossing is shorter but crosses the Pentland Firth which can be a bit wild and woolly. I survived although I confess I was praying to St. Columba on the return journey. Just don't plan on staying or spending any time in John O' Groats.
Note: It's Orkney or Orkney Islands not Orkneys
Dec 30th, 2010, 03:00 PM
#18
Oh - Dunrobin is lovely (and I show a photo of its garden in my <i>Garden of the British Isles</i> travel programs)
But as Scottish castles and Scottish Gardens go -- it isn't old and is only semi-special. Worth a stop on the drive north for sure. Worth a major detour-- probably not.
But as Scottish castles and Scottish Gardens go -- it isn't old and is only semi-special. Worth a stop on the drive north for sure. Worth a major detour-- probably not.
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