Azores
Apr 29th, 2017, 08:54 PM
#1
Original Poster
Azores
At last night's DC GTG, Dave_Ohio mentioned that he is planning a trip to Terceira (which simply means the third island in the group), in the central island group of the Azores, so I am writing this TR, a compilation of my 14 visits to Terceira and the central group which perhaps can help in planning such a trip for him and others.
Flying into Terceira, you will likely land at Lajes Field, an airfield that is shared with the Portuguese AF and a detachment of the US AF. Lajes is very near Terceira's second largest town Praia da Vitoria (locals call it Praia), a town worth visiting on its own. It is also perhaps a 1/2 hour drive to Terceira's largest town, Angra de Heroismo (called Angra by the locals) which is also the Island Capitol and also has its own, smaller airport, so one may also fly into that one.
June is a wonderful time to visit - the weather almost never gets too hot, there is usually a nice breeze and the island is bursting with blooms which you will see when you drive down the ubiquitous hydrangea lined roads. It is also the beginning of the bullfight season. Now these are not bullfights in the usual sense of the term. These are different in that they take place in the streets of different towns around the island, the bull is not harmed and there is no matador. The bull has his horns tipped with brass balls so as not to be able to gore anyone and is at the end of a very long rope held by about a dozen men for a modicum of control. It is the people who "fight" the bull, some brave souls using jackets or open umbrellas as capes. there is a large group of people who come out on the street, the bull chases people, sometimes the people chase back. Onlookers are perched on fences, behind fences, in windows and on balconies. There are food vendors in the streets and it is a festive occasion. When I participated in the street I learned that I was able to cleanly leap a 3' stone fence with proper motivation. The bull fights were begun to commemorate a time hundred of years ago when the Spanish tried to invade Angra. The people unleashed the bulls, who chased the Spaniards back to their ships or so the story goes. BTW, not only are the bulls not harmed, IMO they seem to enjoy it. I even saw one just go into the ocean and swim around for awhile until he came back on land and started chasing people again. Here is a youtube clip of such a "fight." It is mayhem, but an experience, which is why we travel, no? And, it is fun. Believe me.
Things to do.
That is the beauty of Terceira. If you are looking for nightlife, you are in the wrong place. If you are looking to bring your stress levels down to the minus numbers, Bingo. You can walk around Angra, looking at historical architecture, 16tth century buildings still in everyday use. You can visit city hall and go upstairs to visit the presidential apartment and offices where the President of Portugal stays when visiting - it is worth your time. City hall also has a nice collection of antique carriages. You can walk in the countryside, you can drive around looking at beautiful things. There are even a few beaches of sorts.
Terceira is not big, you can drive all of the way around in a few hours if you do not stop, but, get yourself a road map of the island. Driving there is easy, but rent a small car. There are some interesting sights, some in the lowlands toward the water, the others you need to drive up into the hills or highlands. Terceira is volcanic as are all of the islands of the Azores, and the volcano to visit is called Furnas do Enxofre. It is dormant for now and you can walk around the inside of the bowl. When getting near, you can see the steam rising and smell the sulfur. It is a beautiful sight with a myriad of colors. In particular, look at the steam vents. Each one is a microclimate and had its own colors and plant life that is different from its surroundings. Plan to spend an about an hour there. There are a number of small lakes. My two favorites are Black Lake (Lagoa do Negro) and Duck Lake (Lagoa das Patas) which is a wonderful picnic spot. Both are in the hills. Do not be concerned about getting lost when driving in the hills. The island is shaped like an inverted cone, so after driving around and exploring new roads, start just heading down hill, and you will come out the the road that rings the Island. There are also small town to explore when driving around the island as well as charming churches, If it is open, visit the vineyard and winery in Biscoitos. Biscoitos is also a wonderful place to stop for awhile. Go down to the ocean where there are giant lava formations with waves crashing against them sending spray high in the air. There is also a beach of sort. The lava formations form a natural small lagoon, or more accurately a large pool of constantly changing calm ocean water. There is a changing place and a large concrete pad at the water's edge that forms the "beach." It is pleasant swimming in the pool while watching the waves crashing against the lava formations that surround you. Praia, the town I mentioned also has a small beach with real sand as well as a number of good restaurants and gift shops. There is also a beach near Angra. Prices in the shops tend to be a bit lower in Praia. A nice souvenir is a hand woven table cloth made on the Island of nearby Sao Jorge where they specialize in that sort of thing. I used to pick them up as unusual gifts. The local hand painted pottery is also quite nice.
Restaurants
One thing about Terceira, it is hard to pick a bad restaurant - in all my trips I only had one meal that I thought bad. The restaurants there range from good to excellent with a large number in the VG to EX range, so even in picking a place at random, you most likely will not go wrong. That said, here are a few of my favorites: BTW, There are several places called Beira Mar which means "by the sea." One is in the fishing village of that name, another is a town that is up in the hills which I will call upper Beira Mar, and a third is a well known restaurant of that name in Angra.
In the fishing village of lower Beira Mar, is one of my favorites on the island. It is called Beira Mar Sao Mateus. If I do not have the name quite right, do not worry, just drive into the village and go down to the water, it is the fairly large, simple place near the fishing boats which BTW makes a nice photo opportunity. What you eat there of course is fresh caught fish and seafood which is prepared Portuguese style. Simply put, it is delicious and I make it a point to eat there several times on a trip if I can.
The next is a unique restaurant in upper Beira Mar called Quinta do Martelo. This place is special. It is located on a farm just off of the main road through town. There are small signs directing you from the main road. This restaurant recreates Azores dishes as they were made around the early 1900s in a setting typical of that time. There are a number of items to choose from but two that I recommend is the Alcatra, a traditional stew, and bread soup. Both are exceptionally tasty and the most authentic versions you are likely to find anywhere, but all of their entrees are good. This restaurant has shops on the farm where the table cloths and napkins are woven, some utensils are made, all of type of that time period. Much of the food is from the farm. The setting is a living time capsule. If they have some, order the berry cordial with dessert. Make a reservation for both of these places to avoid disappointment.
Also worth a mention are 3 in Praia. These are
Casa De Pasto Bel a Vista
O Pescador, which has a loyal following
and, my favorite snack bar called Santa Catarina if you want something light or burgers or like that. They serve excellent coffee there which is similar to Cuban coffee, i.e., small cups.
There is another type of coffee served in the Azores which is similar to a cross between latte and cappuccino. It is quite good.
If you can, take a ferry ride for an overnight trip to Faial. The ride is a couple of hours each way and usually makes a stop a Sao Jorge. The ferry leaves from Angra. It takes you into the town of Horta, which is surprisingly continental for a small island. That is because ocean crossing yachts stop there for provisions so there are upscale restaurant, bars and such and what passes as night life in the Azores. The harbor with its murals is sight to see as well.. Pay attention to the sidewalks. In Horta, as in many other larger towns in the Azores, the streets are paved with small grey and white stones with the white stones forming a pattern or picture that is different for each street. A different kind of art. The island of Faial is also a lovely place to explore with an area at the far end from Horta that was formed about 30 years ago in a volcanic eruption. Faial is smaller than Terceira so it does not take much time to drive around it.
From Faial you can take a short ferry ride across the channel to the island of Pico which is easy to recognize by its usually snow capped peak. Pico is also fascinating to explore because its plant life is quite different from that of the other island. Pico is also THE place if you want to go whale watching. You go out in motorized zodiacs or at least that is what they were using when we went. There are lots of whales in the channel since it is narrow and on the migration path. I recommend returning to Faial to sleep before your trip back to Terceira. If you do not want to spend time on the ferry from Angra to Horta, you can also fly on an inter-island plane in about a 1/2 hour.
If I think of more, I will add it.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wFbIjYP77Lk
Flying into Terceira, you will likely land at Lajes Field, an airfield that is shared with the Portuguese AF and a detachment of the US AF. Lajes is very near Terceira's second largest town Praia da Vitoria (locals call it Praia), a town worth visiting on its own. It is also perhaps a 1/2 hour drive to Terceira's largest town, Angra de Heroismo (called Angra by the locals) which is also the Island Capitol and also has its own, smaller airport, so one may also fly into that one.
June is a wonderful time to visit - the weather almost never gets too hot, there is usually a nice breeze and the island is bursting with blooms which you will see when you drive down the ubiquitous hydrangea lined roads. It is also the beginning of the bullfight season. Now these are not bullfights in the usual sense of the term. These are different in that they take place in the streets of different towns around the island, the bull is not harmed and there is no matador. The bull has his horns tipped with brass balls so as not to be able to gore anyone and is at the end of a very long rope held by about a dozen men for a modicum of control. It is the people who "fight" the bull, some brave souls using jackets or open umbrellas as capes. there is a large group of people who come out on the street, the bull chases people, sometimes the people chase back. Onlookers are perched on fences, behind fences, in windows and on balconies. There are food vendors in the streets and it is a festive occasion. When I participated in the street I learned that I was able to cleanly leap a 3' stone fence with proper motivation. The bull fights were begun to commemorate a time hundred of years ago when the Spanish tried to invade Angra. The people unleashed the bulls, who chased the Spaniards back to their ships or so the story goes. BTW, not only are the bulls not harmed, IMO they seem to enjoy it. I even saw one just go into the ocean and swim around for awhile until he came back on land and started chasing people again. Here is a youtube clip of such a "fight." It is mayhem, but an experience, which is why we travel, no? And, it is fun. Believe me.
Things to do.
That is the beauty of Terceira. If you are looking for nightlife, you are in the wrong place. If you are looking to bring your stress levels down to the minus numbers, Bingo. You can walk around Angra, looking at historical architecture, 16tth century buildings still in everyday use. You can visit city hall and go upstairs to visit the presidential apartment and offices where the President of Portugal stays when visiting - it is worth your time. City hall also has a nice collection of antique carriages. You can walk in the countryside, you can drive around looking at beautiful things. There are even a few beaches of sorts.
Terceira is not big, you can drive all of the way around in a few hours if you do not stop, but, get yourself a road map of the island. Driving there is easy, but rent a small car. There are some interesting sights, some in the lowlands toward the water, the others you need to drive up into the hills or highlands. Terceira is volcanic as are all of the islands of the Azores, and the volcano to visit is called Furnas do Enxofre. It is dormant for now and you can walk around the inside of the bowl. When getting near, you can see the steam rising and smell the sulfur. It is a beautiful sight with a myriad of colors. In particular, look at the steam vents. Each one is a microclimate and had its own colors and plant life that is different from its surroundings. Plan to spend an about an hour there. There are a number of small lakes. My two favorites are Black Lake (Lagoa do Negro) and Duck Lake (Lagoa das Patas) which is a wonderful picnic spot. Both are in the hills. Do not be concerned about getting lost when driving in the hills. The island is shaped like an inverted cone, so after driving around and exploring new roads, start just heading down hill, and you will come out the the road that rings the Island. There are also small town to explore when driving around the island as well as charming churches, If it is open, visit the vineyard and winery in Biscoitos. Biscoitos is also a wonderful place to stop for awhile. Go down to the ocean where there are giant lava formations with waves crashing against them sending spray high in the air. There is also a beach of sort. The lava formations form a natural small lagoon, or more accurately a large pool of constantly changing calm ocean water. There is a changing place and a large concrete pad at the water's edge that forms the "beach." It is pleasant swimming in the pool while watching the waves crashing against the lava formations that surround you. Praia, the town I mentioned also has a small beach with real sand as well as a number of good restaurants and gift shops. There is also a beach near Angra. Prices in the shops tend to be a bit lower in Praia. A nice souvenir is a hand woven table cloth made on the Island of nearby Sao Jorge where they specialize in that sort of thing. I used to pick them up as unusual gifts. The local hand painted pottery is also quite nice.
Restaurants
One thing about Terceira, it is hard to pick a bad restaurant - in all my trips I only had one meal that I thought bad. The restaurants there range from good to excellent with a large number in the VG to EX range, so even in picking a place at random, you most likely will not go wrong. That said, here are a few of my favorites: BTW, There are several places called Beira Mar which means "by the sea." One is in the fishing village of that name, another is a town that is up in the hills which I will call upper Beira Mar, and a third is a well known restaurant of that name in Angra.
In the fishing village of lower Beira Mar, is one of my favorites on the island. It is called Beira Mar Sao Mateus. If I do not have the name quite right, do not worry, just drive into the village and go down to the water, it is the fairly large, simple place near the fishing boats which BTW makes a nice photo opportunity. What you eat there of course is fresh caught fish and seafood which is prepared Portuguese style. Simply put, it is delicious and I make it a point to eat there several times on a trip if I can.
The next is a unique restaurant in upper Beira Mar called Quinta do Martelo. This place is special. It is located on a farm just off of the main road through town. There are small signs directing you from the main road. This restaurant recreates Azores dishes as they were made around the early 1900s in a setting typical of that time. There are a number of items to choose from but two that I recommend is the Alcatra, a traditional stew, and bread soup. Both are exceptionally tasty and the most authentic versions you are likely to find anywhere, but all of their entrees are good. This restaurant has shops on the farm where the table cloths and napkins are woven, some utensils are made, all of type of that time period. Much of the food is from the farm. The setting is a living time capsule. If they have some, order the berry cordial with dessert. Make a reservation for both of these places to avoid disappointment.
Also worth a mention are 3 in Praia. These are
Casa De Pasto Bel a Vista
O Pescador, which has a loyal following
and, my favorite snack bar called Santa Catarina if you want something light or burgers or like that. They serve excellent coffee there which is similar to Cuban coffee, i.e., small cups.
There is another type of coffee served in the Azores which is similar to a cross between latte and cappuccino. It is quite good.
If you can, take a ferry ride for an overnight trip to Faial. The ride is a couple of hours each way and usually makes a stop a Sao Jorge. The ferry leaves from Angra. It takes you into the town of Horta, which is surprisingly continental for a small island. That is because ocean crossing yachts stop there for provisions so there are upscale restaurant, bars and such and what passes as night life in the Azores. The harbor with its murals is sight to see as well.. Pay attention to the sidewalks. In Horta, as in many other larger towns in the Azores, the streets are paved with small grey and white stones with the white stones forming a pattern or picture that is different for each street. A different kind of art. The island of Faial is also a lovely place to explore with an area at the far end from Horta that was formed about 30 years ago in a volcanic eruption. Faial is smaller than Terceira so it does not take much time to drive around it.
From Faial you can take a short ferry ride across the channel to the island of Pico which is easy to recognize by its usually snow capped peak. Pico is also fascinating to explore because its plant life is quite different from that of the other island. Pico is also THE place if you want to go whale watching. You go out in motorized zodiacs or at least that is what they were using when we went. There are lots of whales in the channel since it is narrow and on the migration path. I recommend returning to Faial to sleep before your trip back to Terceira. If you do not want to spend time on the ferry from Angra to Horta, you can also fly on an inter-island plane in about a 1/2 hour.
If I think of more, I will add it.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wFbIjYP77Lk
Apr 29th, 2017, 11:26 PM
#2
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Sound very nice. Maybe a bit too calm and quiet. I'm going to Sao Miguel this year for a week. From what I've heard it's a bit bigger than Terceira. That probably means there will be more people and more to do.
The travel company I'm going with did have an option with a couple of nights on Terceira. But I decided against that for two reasons. First, because I only had a week and did not want to split it up on multiple islands. Second, because they had included a rental car instead of daytour options on Terceira and I can't drive. Later research showed that it's possible to use taxis to get around on Terceira, but by then I'd already booked my trip.
The travel company I'm going with did have an option with a couple of nights on Terceira. But I decided against that for two reasons. First, because I only had a week and did not want to split it up on multiple islands. Second, because they had included a rental car instead of daytour options on Terceira and I can't drive. Later research showed that it's possible to use taxis to get around on Terceira, but by then I'd already booked my trip.
Apr 30th, 2017, 03:57 AM
#3
basingstoke, thank you for that. We leave May 10th on our next space a adventure and that flight has been popping up from some bases. I was sort of dismissing it as Prestwick UK and Mildenhall are on my wish list. Anyhow, we decided to go wherever we can get out and now I will pay more attention to those flights. Wish we could have made the DC get together, loving the pictures.
Apr 30th, 2017, 04:45 AM
#4
Original Poster
anyegr - you got it right. Sao Miguel is indeed much larger than Terceira and its city is, well, a small city. Since the university is located there, there would be much more going on. The countryside however is much like that of Terceira so be sure to get out for some tours. It is a beautiful place.
Apr 30th, 2017, 04:51 AM
#5
Original Poster
macross, I was not aware that Terceira is still an easy place to get to and from on Space A. Space A is how I made my trips and it went to having multiple flights back to the US each day, to fewer and fewer until it became perhaps two or so each week and when I retired and dropped down from cat 3, it was very difficult to get on a flight home. As you know, getting back from a place on Space A can be much more difficult that getting there.
Apr 30th, 2017, 06:04 AM
#6
Yes it can be. Souda Bay has some great flights. At least you can get to Ramstein and get home most weeks. Rota, Sicily and Souda Bay out of Norfolk. We are going to head up the coast till we find something. Space adventure instead of available.
Apr 30th, 2017, 07:17 AM
#7
I've only ever visited the Azores (with bikes) for 10 days or so and frankly the place was wonderful. The locals very helpful, scenery wonderful. Whale watching great, not aware of the bull fight thing, so glad, the whole torture an animal to death thing seems bad.
Apr 30th, 2017, 08:24 AM
#8
Original Poster
bilboburgler, the Azores are indeed beautiful and wonderful islands to visit. And, the locals treat outsiders as guests and go out of their way to be helpful.
About the "bullfight," I put it in quotes because it is not a bullfight in the traditional sense. The bulls are not tortured, struck or harmed at all all but simply do what bulls do. When the event is over they are transported back to the farm. It is a festival with that goes from town to town and the people enjoy even though it may look otherwise. The bulls seem to enjoy it too, once out they seem eager to chase anyone in their sight whether or not the person is playing bullfighter with them.
f you weren't on Terceira, you would not have seen one of these events since they are done only there in late spring and summer. I agree with you about the traditional bullfights.
About the "bullfight," I put it in quotes because it is not a bullfight in the traditional sense. The bulls are not tortured, struck or harmed at all all but simply do what bulls do. When the event is over they are transported back to the farm. It is a festival with that goes from town to town and the people enjoy even though it may look otherwise. The bulls seem to enjoy it too, once out they seem eager to chase anyone in their sight whether or not the person is playing bullfighter with them.
f you weren't on Terceira, you would not have seen one of these events since they are done only there in late spring and summer. I agree with you about the traditional bullfights.
Apr 30th, 2017, 09:28 AM
#9
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Thanks so much for this post. I've been interested in visiting ever since I returned from my first trip to Portugal a few months ago, where I tasted so many great foods from Azores!
I understand there may be direct flights from the US in summer, but only from Boston. (??)
I understand there may be direct flights from the US in summer, but only from Boston. (??)
Apr 30th, 2017, 09:50 AM
#10
Original Poster
eks - I have not checked, but I believe that may well be true. New England has more people whose parents, grandparents and several generations back are from the Azores than the entire population of the Azores. Back in the whaling days, the best whalers were from the Azores and particularly from the island of Pico and they were sought after to serve on New England's whaling ships. Many of them settled here and many who are living in New England have family in the Azores so travel there to see them. I believe there are one or two direct flights each week out of Logan - they may be charters. Otherwise one must first fly to Portugal and then fly back to the islands. Toronto also has a "Little Azores" neighborhood if my memory is correct.
Apr 30th, 2017, 10:20 PM
#11
basingstoke2, thank you for putting this into writing. There is no way that I could have remembered it all from one telling.
We're really amped about the Azores now, although Mrs_Dave still has her misgivings about the bullfights!
We're really amped about the Azores now, although Mrs_Dave still has her misgivings about the bullfights!
May 1st, 2017, 06:37 AM
#13
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If this forum had a like button, I would push it a million tmes! We spent five nights on Sao Miguel a few years ago and are definitely itching to make it to more Azores islands. This is a tremendous resource, thanks so much.
For those of you who know Terceira well, would it be crazy to go in late February or early March? I get an annual trip to Lisbon for work, but it looks like next year's will be much earlier than usual. So should we chance it or wait till another year for an April or even May visit?
For those of you who know Terceira well, would it be crazy to go in late February or early March? I get an annual trip to Lisbon for work, but it looks like next year's will be much earlier than usual. So should we chance it or wait till another year for an April or even May visit?
May 2nd, 2017, 07:03 AM
#15
Original Poster
Fra, up close is an understatement. From a zodiac, you are at eye level with them. I would say we got up to about 100' feet from one pod of 3. When we went we saw either 30 whales or the same 3 whales 10X. After returning to the whaling place on Pico, the fellow who was our zodiac guide offered to take us over to Faial since he was going there anyway. That was where we had our hotel reservation so it worked out well, with a twist. He took us (my son and I) and a British couple. On the way over he miscalculated a very large swell and we were momentarily under water, but no one was injured - just soaked through. We thought it funny. The British couple not so much. Imagine the scene of my son and I squishing our way across the hotel lobby dripping wet. Even better, imagine the look on the hotel clerk's face when asked for our key. We use zip locks when packing our bags so everything in there stayed dry. Ah! memories.
May 31st, 2017, 04:24 AM
#18
Original Poster
Have a great trip Dave and be sure to explore the interior of the Island as well- not just the roads around the edges where most tourists go. If you can, have a meal at Quinta do Martelo, it is an experience as well as a meal. Takes lots of photos please and speaking of experiences, don't be afraid to see a street bullfight.
Jun 10th, 2017, 10:56 AM
#19
basingstoke2, we are in your debt for all of the guidance and good advice on the Azores that you provided. Thank you!
We went on a package trip from Azores Getaways that included the return flight from Boston to Terceira on Air Azores (SATA), seven nights hotel with breakfast, and airport transfers. With a hotel upgrade in Angra do Heroismo to the Terceira Mar, it cost $1500 for the two of us. I heard that either Portugal or the Azores subsidizes these packages to promote tourism.
Upon arrival, we signed up for a walking tour of the city, a half-day whale watch cruise (where we saw blue whales, fin whales, and tons of dolphins!), a trip to a bullfight (see below), and a two-day SmartCar rental. The rest of the time we either walked around town, or lolled about the hotel, enjoying the sea view. There was a wonderful public concert in the old town square one night, with the President of Portugal in attendance, and a dance program the next evening. Having the car allowed us to drive to the interior of the island to hike a bit and visit some natural tidal swimming pools, thermal vents, and a lagoon inside the core of a volcano chimney.
The meals were amazing. Although this is an island in the middle of the Atlantic, with fresh fish plentiful and economical as you might expect, beef and dairy farming is the main industry on the island. We ordered filet mignon dinners twice, once for 13.50 euros, and once for 14.50 euros, for enormous melt-in-your-mouth filets and sides.
Quinta do Martelo wasn't easy to find, but definitely worth the visit. We located it when we drove to the nearby city of Sao Mateus for a bullfight. Went back the following night while we still had the car. Including us, there were only four diners on Sunday evening. We had the recommended Alcatra, a stew of shortribs, potatoes, onions, and herbs, made in a clay crock in a woodfired stone oven. It was much better than one we'd tasted in Biscoitos the day before, but I still can't call this dish a favorite. The appetizers were enjoyable, including an herb-infused pickled seaweed, fava beans (no Chianti), lupines, fresh goat cheese, olives, butter and bread. With dinner we had a local red wine from Picos, similar to a young burgundy, and orange and honey puddings for dessert. The best part of the meal was talking for quite a while with our 21-yr-old waitress about the 122-yr-old restaurant, life on the island, her life, and how she views America (she's a fan).
The bullfights were basically the annoying/taunting of partially restrained bulls, mostly done by human males. We saw three bulls in Sao Mateus on Saturday evening, then three more at Altares on Monday evening. Unfortunately, the bus tour group on Monday stayed on for one bull too many. A member of our group was tossed and stomped, finding himself in the wrong place at the wrong time while videoing the action with an i-Pad. The YouTube link is below (warning: graphic violence administered by a bovine!). He was beaten up pretty badly (I've never seen uglier black eyes), but lived to tell about it and made his way home on the plane with us.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cu-3...ature=youtu.be
My wife felt that this was one of our best trips, and I must agree. We look forward to going back again sometime, perhaps to see other islands in the archipelago, although we wouldn't mind spending more time on Terceira
We went on a package trip from Azores Getaways that included the return flight from Boston to Terceira on Air Azores (SATA), seven nights hotel with breakfast, and airport transfers. With a hotel upgrade in Angra do Heroismo to the Terceira Mar, it cost $1500 for the two of us. I heard that either Portugal or the Azores subsidizes these packages to promote tourism.
Upon arrival, we signed up for a walking tour of the city, a half-day whale watch cruise (where we saw blue whales, fin whales, and tons of dolphins!), a trip to a bullfight (see below), and a two-day SmartCar rental. The rest of the time we either walked around town, or lolled about the hotel, enjoying the sea view. There was a wonderful public concert in the old town square one night, with the President of Portugal in attendance, and a dance program the next evening. Having the car allowed us to drive to the interior of the island to hike a bit and visit some natural tidal swimming pools, thermal vents, and a lagoon inside the core of a volcano chimney.
The meals were amazing. Although this is an island in the middle of the Atlantic, with fresh fish plentiful and economical as you might expect, beef and dairy farming is the main industry on the island. We ordered filet mignon dinners twice, once for 13.50 euros, and once for 14.50 euros, for enormous melt-in-your-mouth filets and sides.
Quinta do Martelo wasn't easy to find, but definitely worth the visit. We located it when we drove to the nearby city of Sao Mateus for a bullfight. Went back the following night while we still had the car. Including us, there were only four diners on Sunday evening. We had the recommended Alcatra, a stew of shortribs, potatoes, onions, and herbs, made in a clay crock in a woodfired stone oven. It was much better than one we'd tasted in Biscoitos the day before, but I still can't call this dish a favorite. The appetizers were enjoyable, including an herb-infused pickled seaweed, fava beans (no Chianti), lupines, fresh goat cheese, olives, butter and bread. With dinner we had a local red wine from Picos, similar to a young burgundy, and orange and honey puddings for dessert. The best part of the meal was talking for quite a while with our 21-yr-old waitress about the 122-yr-old restaurant, life on the island, her life, and how she views America (she's a fan).
The bullfights were basically the annoying/taunting of partially restrained bulls, mostly done by human males. We saw three bulls in Sao Mateus on Saturday evening, then three more at Altares on Monday evening. Unfortunately, the bus tour group on Monday stayed on for one bull too many. A member of our group was tossed and stomped, finding himself in the wrong place at the wrong time while videoing the action with an i-Pad. The YouTube link is below (warning: graphic violence administered by a bovine!). He was beaten up pretty badly (I've never seen uglier black eyes), but lived to tell about it and made his way home on the plane with us.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cu-3...ature=youtu.be
My wife felt that this was one of our best trips, and I must agree. We look forward to going back again sometime, perhaps to see other islands in the archipelago, although we wouldn't mind spending more time on Terceira
