jskb

Hey Zeppole --
You've piqued my curiosity! We are definitely more the fun and funky vs. Marriott types, but what do you mean by "risk taking" or -- for that matter -- funky?
And thanks for the restaurant recommendations.

zeppole

The place is perfectly clean but it's really quite a storied place and the rooms are quirky. It's a true medieval borgo that became something of an artist's colony. Some of the rooms are named after authors or filmmakers or actors who lived there. It's the kind of big old place that it really almost impossible to keep going, except as a hopeless labor of love. You find old second hand pieces of mismatched furniture -- but it has old attic charm.

By "risk taking" I meant that some people really don't want stairs that creak, or an old armoire with a broken bit, or some other oddity. You may be the only people there off season. Half the borgo is occupied by permanent residents, and it's not clear what anybody is doing there. You are not going to find trendy bath products and the showers may be hand held in some rooms.

But you'll be safe and maybe have funny experiences. The actual borgo of Ostia has quite a history, with a three-sided fortress, a legend of Constatine's mother being buried there (poke your head in the church) and it's all so tiny. It's like an island of antiquity surrounded by the hustle and bustle of Fiumicino and ridiculousness of the Lido at the beach.

Here are some pictures

http://www.ostiaantica.net/borgo.php

the entrance to the hotel rodrigo de vivar is on the left

http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Fi...borgo_2515.JPG

http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Ca...n_Ostia_Antica

The room we stayed in with friends at Rodrigo de Vivar was actually the top floor of a small apartment, with two bedrooms separated by a common sitting room. It was ideal.

zeppole

http://www.deliciousitaly.com/visual...7&regione_id=7

zeppole

http://www.rodrigodevivar.com/in/rooms.html

jskb

Ahh, now I see. Not a problem. Creaky stairs and mismatched furniture would feel more like home. Sounds quite interesting. Thanks for the links.

jskb

I see now that I didn't respond to Ann. No, we've never been to Amalfi, so I don't really know what the driving is like there.
We will strongly consider public transportation for at least the Amalfi-coast section of our travels. But if buses navigate the roads successfully, shouldn't it be possible to drive a standard-sized car?

zeppole

This is helpful -- but it has a soundtrack:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Tsv7rMEJx3M

Problem is that the driver won't see anything.

MartaD

DY is an excellent driver and has driven some very challenging areas in Italy. He could have driven the Amalfi coast area when we were there; certainly he had the skill and experience. But if you are driving, you are definitely not able to enjoy the view. So let someone else do the driving, be it SITA bus or hired car. You will really want to enjoy the scenery.

Ann1

All I can say is watch the wonderful "youtube" that Zeppole posted. It's great! In some cases it's even very mild for what you can come up to. Yes the buses go down most of the roads, but there are some that they can't fit. Let me tell you....in some of the tight areas meeting up with a bus is the problem of having a standard size car.

As I mentioned before, as MartaD and Zeppole backed me up on is the fact that the driver can not enjoy the drive. My husband and I are excellent drivers in tight spots in Italy also, and we wouldn't mind driving Amalfi, but we don't because we won't enjoy it. You will see. Believe us....we've been there many times.

One more thing.....parking....there is very little parking and you may have to miss something because there's nowhere to put the car.

jskb

I really enjoyed the youtube. Thanks Zeppole! However, I'm not sure it had its desired effect as the driving did not seem sooo bad, and I think I've done worse (e.g., the hills of Tortola). And I hear what everyone has said about missing views but, on the other hand, we plan to do hiking on the many trails in the area and so will have many opportunities for views. I AM concerned about parking and I hadn't considered that we might need a larger car, which would make having one on the coast more problematic.
This all has been a very helpful discussion and my current plan is to take the train from the airport to Salerno, spend the night, and then bus to Amalfi. I like the idea of staying in Atrani, and the places we're looking at have no parking. After a few days in Amalfi, we'll bus to the other side of peninsula, near Sorrento (I've found an attractive agriturismo) and that will be closer for day trips (with or without car) to Naples, Capri, Pompeii, etc.
So, thanks to all, our plans are shaping up nicely.

Ann1

jskb: I did mention on the Youtube video, "It's great! In some cases it's even very mild for what you can come up to." I know those roads in Tortola that you are talking about. The difference is that they have woods and dirt on the sides of the roads and don't have Italian drivers to deal with. Amalfi has rock and more rock on the sides of the road.

I think what you decided is excellent. As I mentioned the parking is miserable along the coast. From Sorrento you can rent a car, but for the things you want to do, the train and aliscafi are right in town and easy to get to. If you want to stop on the way to Pompeii, a car is good. Allow enough time for Pompeii. It has more than you might expect. If you decide to hike Vesuvius, Ercolano is the same stop on the train. Vesuvius you go up the hill and Ercolano you go down the hill. Have fun!

caroline_edinburgh

jskb, your current plan looks good ! Ann, you mentioned the rock but not the sheer drop

Ann1

Yes, Caroline you are correct. Phew, that is a drop!!