April in the Alps: A Swiss Walkabout
Jun 2nd, 2009, 03:14 AM
#41
April 20, 2009: Exploring the Aareschlucht...
We decided to have a hike-free day and explore the Aare Gorge. We walked to the train station and purchased tickets to Meiringen (18.50 CHF each), the home of Reichenbach Falls, where the fictitious Sherlock Holmes fell to his death. Our destination was Aareschlucht, which is located just outside the village.
http://www.aareschlucht.ch/english/einfuehrung_e.php
When we arrived at the Meiringen station (after a train change in Interlaken) we weren’t sure where to go, but we eventually found a sign and began weaving our way through town, and then down a country road, and then alongside the Aare River and the railway for the Meiringen-Innerkirchen Bahn. We stopped for a picnic at a park and then continued on, finding the west entrance to the gorge after a 30 minute walk from the station. We paid our admission (7.50 CHF each) and began our walk through the 1,400 meter long, 180 meter deep gorge, along a footpath that clings to the side and tunnels through the rock. It’s an interesting place and I had to wonder how we’d missed it on previous visits. The east entrance wasn’t yet open, but we’d been told the best part of the gorge was accessible from the west.
When we exited the Aareschlucht, we crossed the Aare River and took a different route back to Meiringen. As I was admiring a wooden letterbox on the front of a house, the owner came out and invited us into his garage where he showed us an entire wall of his handiwork; trains, animals, all manner of items hand carved from wood. It was a magical moment, as he spoke no English and we spoke no German, yet through sign language and pantomime we communicated just fine.
On the way back, we stopped in Interlaken to visit the big Coop grocery store, where we picked up provisions and ogled the cheese display. We’d never seen so many different kinds of cheese.
We returned to Lauterbrunnen and realized just how quiet it was; most of the restaurants had now closed until summer; it seemed that we’d left all of our fellow tourists behind in Zermatt (yahoo!). That smug feeling began to creep back.
Despite our best efforts to have a hike-free day, we’d still managed to walk for over two hours. We returned to our apartment to relax and enjoy the spoils of our shopping; fresh strawberries, brown bread with walnuts, a variety of Swiss cheeses, beer, red wine and of course, chocolate. We had a quiet evening in, watching yet another movie about the Eiger, The Beckoning Silence.
Next up: A surprise find in Wengen...
We decided to have a hike-free day and explore the Aare Gorge. We walked to the train station and purchased tickets to Meiringen (18.50 CHF each), the home of Reichenbach Falls, where the fictitious Sherlock Holmes fell to his death. Our destination was Aareschlucht, which is located just outside the village.
http://www.aareschlucht.ch/english/einfuehrung_e.php
When we arrived at the Meiringen station (after a train change in Interlaken) we weren’t sure where to go, but we eventually found a sign and began weaving our way through town, and then down a country road, and then alongside the Aare River and the railway for the Meiringen-Innerkirchen Bahn. We stopped for a picnic at a park and then continued on, finding the west entrance to the gorge after a 30 minute walk from the station. We paid our admission (7.50 CHF each) and began our walk through the 1,400 meter long, 180 meter deep gorge, along a footpath that clings to the side and tunnels through the rock. It’s an interesting place and I had to wonder how we’d missed it on previous visits. The east entrance wasn’t yet open, but we’d been told the best part of the gorge was accessible from the west.
When we exited the Aareschlucht, we crossed the Aare River and took a different route back to Meiringen. As I was admiring a wooden letterbox on the front of a house, the owner came out and invited us into his garage where he showed us an entire wall of his handiwork; trains, animals, all manner of items hand carved from wood. It was a magical moment, as he spoke no English and we spoke no German, yet through sign language and pantomime we communicated just fine.
On the way back, we stopped in Interlaken to visit the big Coop grocery store, where we picked up provisions and ogled the cheese display. We’d never seen so many different kinds of cheese.
We returned to Lauterbrunnen and realized just how quiet it was; most of the restaurants had now closed until summer; it seemed that we’d left all of our fellow tourists behind in Zermatt (yahoo!). That smug feeling began to creep back.
Despite our best efforts to have a hike-free day, we’d still managed to walk for over two hours. We returned to our apartment to relax and enjoy the spoils of our shopping; fresh strawberries, brown bread with walnuts, a variety of Swiss cheeses, beer, red wine and of course, chocolate. We had a quiet evening in, watching yet another movie about the Eiger, The Beckoning Silence.
Next up: A surprise find in Wengen...
Jun 3rd, 2009, 03:36 PM
#43
All photos now uploaded (well, I may add another one or two):
http://www.worldisround.com/articles/353524/index.html
If there's anyone still reading, you'll be glad to hear that I'm losing steam and there is an end in sight! I'll try to wrap this up in the next day or two.
http://www.worldisround.com/articles/353524/index.html
If there's anyone still reading, you'll be glad to hear that I'm losing steam and there is an end in sight! I'll try to wrap this up in the next day or two.
Jun 3rd, 2009, 04:41 PM
#45
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I am still reading and really enjoying these - keep going please 
We are hoping to head to this region sometime soon - but we always book and travel at short notice so I do enjoy reading detailed reports like this.
The photos are terrific - mmm - not sure I could walk in all that snow and slush - must have spent too long living in a mild climate.
I hope you are enjoying living in Perth - I grew up there and still think of it as 'home' after 50+ years - even though I now live in South Australia.
Perth does have the best beaches - well I think so.
Thank you!
We are hoping to head to this region sometime soon - but we always book and travel at short notice so I do enjoy reading detailed reports like this.
The photos are terrific - mmm - not sure I could walk in all that snow and slush - must have spent too long living in a mild climate.
I hope you are enjoying living in Perth - I grew up there and still think of it as 'home' after 50+ years - even though I now live in South Australia.
Perth does have the best beaches - well I think so.
Thank you!
Jun 3rd, 2009, 04:44 PM
#46
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Helllloooooooo!!!! I'm still here, Melnq8. Enjoying every morsel!!
It's probably been 10 years since I've been to Switzerland in the winter. All your pics of the snow are so beautiful!
Had to laugh at your picture of the "no dog poopies here" sign. I could use that same sign in front of my house. I'll have to check out the hardware stores when I'm over there again!
There's a similar sign at the top of the Schilthorn, only it's about no high heels allowed. Pretty funny to see everyone get their picture in front of it (me too)!
It's probably been 10 years since I've been to Switzerland in the winter. All your pics of the snow are so beautiful!
Had to laugh at your picture of the "no dog poopies here" sign. I could use that same sign in front of my house. I'll have to check out the hardware stores when I'm over there again!
There's a similar sign at the top of the Schilthorn, only it's about no high heels allowed. Pretty funny to see everyone get their picture in front of it (me too)!
Jun 3rd, 2009, 05:00 PM
#47
Meredith - sorry to hear you're having trouble with the link. Try this: Type www.worldisround.com into your browser, then click on Western Europe under the Explore the World heading, then scroll down until you see 'April in the Alps: A Swiss Walkabout' and click there. You'll be taken right to the photos.
love_travel_Aus - We're loving Perth, but the summers are a bit much for us, as we're hot weather wimps. We hope to visit SA in a few months (while it's cool!) so I may have to pick your brain about where to go and what to see.
swisshiker - I've seen that sign on the Schilthorn, in fact, I think I have a photo of it myself! AND I once saw a woman on the Titlis sliding around in high heels...go figure.
love_travel_Aus - We're loving Perth, but the summers are a bit much for us, as we're hot weather wimps. We hope to visit SA in a few months (while it's cool!) so I may have to pick your brain about where to go and what to see.
swisshiker - I've seen that sign on the Schilthorn, in fact, I think I have a photo of it myself! AND I once saw a woman on the Titlis sliding around in high heels...go figure.
Jun 3rd, 2009, 05:13 PM
#48
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Melnq8 - feel free to ask about SA - and July is good time for the Flinders Ranges and other country places - especially if you are not bothered by the cold.
Not a lot of greenery on the vines in the wine regions during this time - but all the restaurants are great - and warm and cosy.
It is 15C here today and very grey - and I don't like this much!
I am not sure how one makes contact with you on this forum - have not used it in this way - but I know that you will know when the time comes!
Not a lot of greenery on the vines in the wine regions during this time - but all the restaurants are great - and warm and cosy.
It is 15C here today and very grey - and I don't like this much!
I am not sure how one makes contact with you on this forum - have not used it in this way - but I know that you will know when the time comes!
Jun 3rd, 2009, 05:31 PM
#49
love_travel_Aus -
We're definitely not bothered by the cold!
I can be reached at billmelk at hotmail dot com. If you don't mind sending your e-mail address to me there, I can contact you once I start planning. Otherwise, I spend a lot of time on the Fodor's Australia forum.
Thank you!
We're definitely not bothered by the cold!
I can be reached at billmelk at hotmail dot com. If you don't mind sending your e-mail address to me there, I can contact you once I start planning. Otherwise, I spend a lot of time on the Fodor's Australia forum.
Thank you!
Jun 3rd, 2009, 06:44 PM
#50
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Hi Melnq8, I just found your report and enjoyed reading the section about Kandersteg, which I have visited 3 times (stayed at Hotel Adler each time), most recently in August 2007. Kandersteg doesn't seem to get much attention from mainstream Berner Oberland tourists because it is so far from the Jungfrau area, but I adore this town! We have taken the sesselbahn up to Oeschinensee on every trip and have hiked around the lake, up to the Fruendenhuette, and all the way back down to town. (In fact I think I have a picture of the very same trail sign!) I really enjoyed seeing your pictures of the snow-covered lake - quite a different perspective from my summer-time visits! Great report.
Jun 3rd, 2009, 06:49 PM
#51
April 21, 2009: More walking and eating …
It looked to be another nice day, but we’d heard bad weather was expected later in the week; encouraged by the previous night’s movie, we decided it was time to go UP. We walked to the train station and bought tickets for the Jungfraubahn to Kleine Scheidegg (26.20 CHF return).
http://www.jungfraubahn.ch/en/Deskto.../182_read-814/
We detrained at Wengen, picked up a trail map at the tourist office, and were soon walking the trail to Hunnenfluh, which begins near the Hotel Belvedere. This is an easy walk for the most part, but it does get a wee bit steep towards the end. It wasn’t until we’d reached the overlook and were sitting on a bench nibbling a chocolate bar that we realized we’d been here before. It was very peaceful, just the two of us and some pretty fabulous views of the valley, Wilderswil and Interlaken. We returned to Wengen via the ‘alternate route’, turning right at Ledi and then working our way back to the village (total walk time, 1:15 with photo stops, just under 2.5 miles).
After poking through town a bit, we got back on the cog train to Kleine Scheidegg. Once there we purchased lunch at the self-service counter (33.50 CHF, no drinks), plopped ourselves down on a picnic table at the foot of the Eiger’s north face and tried to eat our bratwurst and Rosti before it got cold (it was a little chilly).
Note: We’ve visited the Jungfrau before, so we didn’t feel a need to go back, yet we do like to take the Jungfraubahn as far as Kleine Scheidegg.
Fog was rolling in, so unfortunately I was unable to get any decent photos, but we weren’t too disappointed as we’d seen the Eiger, Monch and the Jungfrau in all their glory on previous visits.
We explored for awhile, hoping, but not expecting to find an open wanderweg, but no luck. By now we were getting a little cold (and we LIKE the cold), so we went inside the Bahnhof Restaurant and warmed up with a gluhwein and a weissbier (huh?) while we awaited our return train.
At Wengen we detrained again, and took the walk to Staubbachbankli, which begins near the Hotel Baren, in the opposite direction of the Hunnenfluh. This was a lovely walk which meandered past chalets and through the countryside, ending on a ledge overlooking the Staubbach Falls and the valley below. This walk came as a huge surprise as we’d never seen this part of Wengen before, and we were absolutely enthralled with the views – we could even seen Murren perched up on the mountain terrace across the way – fantastic! Unfortunately, it was too hazy to get decent photos, but I’d love to revisit this trail on a clear day (total walk time, 1:15, 2.5 miles)
Back in Wengen, we called in at the Rocks Bar, a British owned establishment we’d discovered on a previous visit. This bar seems to cater to expatriates who work in the area. It’s a nice little pub with Guinness on tap and the best merlot I’ve had in Switzerland, plus the bonus of free internet access (8.50 CHF for a pint of Guinness, 5 CHF for a glass of merlot).
Then it was back on the train to Lauterbrunnen and another dinner at the Weidstubli, which also makes a decent plate of Rosti with cheese (30 CHF for two, no drinks).
Next up: Another long trek and the pungent odor of cow poop…
It looked to be another nice day, but we’d heard bad weather was expected later in the week; encouraged by the previous night’s movie, we decided it was time to go UP. We walked to the train station and bought tickets for the Jungfraubahn to Kleine Scheidegg (26.20 CHF return).
http://www.jungfraubahn.ch/en/Deskto.../182_read-814/
We detrained at Wengen, picked up a trail map at the tourist office, and were soon walking the trail to Hunnenfluh, which begins near the Hotel Belvedere. This is an easy walk for the most part, but it does get a wee bit steep towards the end. It wasn’t until we’d reached the overlook and were sitting on a bench nibbling a chocolate bar that we realized we’d been here before. It was very peaceful, just the two of us and some pretty fabulous views of the valley, Wilderswil and Interlaken. We returned to Wengen via the ‘alternate route’, turning right at Ledi and then working our way back to the village (total walk time, 1:15 with photo stops, just under 2.5 miles).
After poking through town a bit, we got back on the cog train to Kleine Scheidegg. Once there we purchased lunch at the self-service counter (33.50 CHF, no drinks), plopped ourselves down on a picnic table at the foot of the Eiger’s north face and tried to eat our bratwurst and Rosti before it got cold (it was a little chilly).
Note: We’ve visited the Jungfrau before, so we didn’t feel a need to go back, yet we do like to take the Jungfraubahn as far as Kleine Scheidegg.
Fog was rolling in, so unfortunately I was unable to get any decent photos, but we weren’t too disappointed as we’d seen the Eiger, Monch and the Jungfrau in all their glory on previous visits.
We explored for awhile, hoping, but not expecting to find an open wanderweg, but no luck. By now we were getting a little cold (and we LIKE the cold), so we went inside the Bahnhof Restaurant and warmed up with a gluhwein and a weissbier (huh?) while we awaited our return train.
At Wengen we detrained again, and took the walk to Staubbachbankli, which begins near the Hotel Baren, in the opposite direction of the Hunnenfluh. This was a lovely walk which meandered past chalets and through the countryside, ending on a ledge overlooking the Staubbach Falls and the valley below. This walk came as a huge surprise as we’d never seen this part of Wengen before, and we were absolutely enthralled with the views – we could even seen Murren perched up on the mountain terrace across the way – fantastic! Unfortunately, it was too hazy to get decent photos, but I’d love to revisit this trail on a clear day (total walk time, 1:15, 2.5 miles)
Back in Wengen, we called in at the Rocks Bar, a British owned establishment we’d discovered on a previous visit. This bar seems to cater to expatriates who work in the area. It’s a nice little pub with Guinness on tap and the best merlot I’ve had in Switzerland, plus the bonus of free internet access (8.50 CHF for a pint of Guinness, 5 CHF for a glass of merlot).
Then it was back on the train to Lauterbrunnen and another dinner at the Weidstubli, which also makes a decent plate of Rosti with cheese (30 CHF for two, no drinks).
Next up: Another long trek and the pungent odor of cow poop…
Jun 3rd, 2009, 06:51 PM
#52
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I meant to add that I'm sorry to hear the Adler's roesti was disappointing. I remember having my first platter of roesti there some 15 years ago, before they renovated their dining room (it used to be much more rustic), and it was fantastic. Fortunately their fondue is still to die for. We also really enjoyed our meal at the hotel across the street from the Adler, the name of which escapes me at the moment.
Jun 3rd, 2009, 09:08 PM
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Oh, Melnq8, this is wonderful. I am loving every word, and enjoying every vicarious minute. Thank you for all the detail!
And yes, do go to Kandersteg (and Oeschinensee) in the summer. Great hiking, great scenery.
And yes, do go to Kandersteg (and Oeschinensee) in the summer. Great hiking, great scenery.
Jun 3rd, 2009, 10:40 PM
#56
April 22, 2009: An almost missed train, a free ride and a cow wash…
It seemed the weather guessers were wrong, and we were blessed with a gorgeous day…we only wished we’d saved our trip to Wengen and Kleine Scheidegg…oh well.
The day began the same as our previous days in Lauterbrunnen, with coffee, cheese and bread in our apartment. We’d quickly fallen into the daily habit of picking up a small loaf of bread from whichever bakery we happened upon, often toting it around in a backpack for part of the day. The few shops that were open for business post Easter closed pretty early, so we chose to play it safe.
We walked from our apartment to the train station where we located the path from Lauterbrunnen to Zweilutschinen, an easy level path that follows the Weisse Lutschine (river). The sun hadn’t yet crested the sheer cliffs, so my photograph attempts failed miserably; but nonetheless it was an enjoyable walk (53 minutes, 2.6 miles).
We’d tried to time our arrival in Zweilutschinen to meet the 10:17 am train to Grindelwald, but we knew we were in trouble when we saw our train pull into the station while we were still several minutes away. So, we slowed our pace, figuring we’d just wait an hour to catch the next train.
Oddly, the train was still there when we strolled up; we were directed to the nearly full train by a conductor, who told us we could purchase a ticket on board. We later learned that the trains to/from Interlaken and Lauterbrunnen were shut down for two days for maintenance. Connecting passengers were being diverted via buses and the train to Grindelwald had been held a few minutes for those passengers. Sweet. Not only did we get lucky making the train, but the conductor never made it to our car to sell us a ticket, so we got a free ride.
We wandered around Grindelwald for a bit, and then embarked on the walk to Zweilutschinen, which begins near the train station. The majority of this walk was level or at a slight descent, with the notable exception of the climb out of Grindelwald followed by a short knee crunching descent soon thereafter. I found myself stopping every five minutes to photograph the imposing Alps from yet another vantage point and I had to trot to catch up to Bill.
Most of this walk followed a paved road which led through small villages, but there were some unpaved stretches that led through forest, past barns and pastures and alongside the river. We were never far from the pungent smell of cow poop; at one point we saw two women washing cows with a contraption similar to what you’d find at a self service car wash; a cow wash if you will.
As we meandered along, we also passed three train stations, which in addition to making good pit stops, gave us the opportunity to beg off walking all the way had we pooped out early. As we neared Zweilutschinen, we walked through a village that I particularly liked; there were flowers in bloom virtually everywhere, tulips, pansies, in gardens, in flowerboxes, it was lovely.
It seemed our luck had run out, as we arrived in Zweilutschinen four minutes after the bus to Lauterbrunnen had left, so we had to wait an hour (2.20 CHF each for bus). But man, it felt good to sit down; the pavement had taken its toll on our poor feet and the old knees were kicking up a fuss after all the downhill walking (total walk time 3:45, 8.2 miles).
Back in Lauterbrunnen, we somehow found the energy to check out the used books for sale at a coffee shop, and then it was back to the apartment for a much needed rest. We were completely knackered.
Too tired to face walking the 15 minutes back to Lauterbrunnen for dinner, we crossed the river and had our third meal at the Weidstubli (I told you it would prove handy!).
Next up: An aimless ramble above Murren…
It seemed the weather guessers were wrong, and we were blessed with a gorgeous day…we only wished we’d saved our trip to Wengen and Kleine Scheidegg…oh well.
The day began the same as our previous days in Lauterbrunnen, with coffee, cheese and bread in our apartment. We’d quickly fallen into the daily habit of picking up a small loaf of bread from whichever bakery we happened upon, often toting it around in a backpack for part of the day. The few shops that were open for business post Easter closed pretty early, so we chose to play it safe.
We walked from our apartment to the train station where we located the path from Lauterbrunnen to Zweilutschinen, an easy level path that follows the Weisse Lutschine (river). The sun hadn’t yet crested the sheer cliffs, so my photograph attempts failed miserably; but nonetheless it was an enjoyable walk (53 minutes, 2.6 miles).
We’d tried to time our arrival in Zweilutschinen to meet the 10:17 am train to Grindelwald, but we knew we were in trouble when we saw our train pull into the station while we were still several minutes away. So, we slowed our pace, figuring we’d just wait an hour to catch the next train.
Oddly, the train was still there when we strolled up; we were directed to the nearly full train by a conductor, who told us we could purchase a ticket on board. We later learned that the trains to/from Interlaken and Lauterbrunnen were shut down for two days for maintenance. Connecting passengers were being diverted via buses and the train to Grindelwald had been held a few minutes for those passengers. Sweet. Not only did we get lucky making the train, but the conductor never made it to our car to sell us a ticket, so we got a free ride.
We wandered around Grindelwald for a bit, and then embarked on the walk to Zweilutschinen, which begins near the train station. The majority of this walk was level or at a slight descent, with the notable exception of the climb out of Grindelwald followed by a short knee crunching descent soon thereafter. I found myself stopping every five minutes to photograph the imposing Alps from yet another vantage point and I had to trot to catch up to Bill.
Most of this walk followed a paved road which led through small villages, but there were some unpaved stretches that led through forest, past barns and pastures and alongside the river. We were never far from the pungent smell of cow poop; at one point we saw two women washing cows with a contraption similar to what you’d find at a self service car wash; a cow wash if you will.
As we meandered along, we also passed three train stations, which in addition to making good pit stops, gave us the opportunity to beg off walking all the way had we pooped out early. As we neared Zweilutschinen, we walked through a village that I particularly liked; there were flowers in bloom virtually everywhere, tulips, pansies, in gardens, in flowerboxes, it was lovely.
It seemed our luck had run out, as we arrived in Zweilutschinen four minutes after the bus to Lauterbrunnen had left, so we had to wait an hour (2.20 CHF each for bus). But man, it felt good to sit down; the pavement had taken its toll on our poor feet and the old knees were kicking up a fuss after all the downhill walking (total walk time 3:45, 8.2 miles).
Back in Lauterbrunnen, we somehow found the energy to check out the used books for sale at a coffee shop, and then it was back to the apartment for a much needed rest. We were completely knackered.
Too tired to face walking the 15 minutes back to Lauterbrunnen for dinner, we crossed the river and had our third meal at the Weidstubli (I told you it would prove handy!).
Next up: An aimless ramble above Murren…
Jun 4th, 2009, 12:38 AM
#57
April 23, 2009: Where the heck is the trail?...
Amazingly, the weather gods were still on our side, as it was yet another pretty day. The Lauterbrunnen-Grutschalp cable car had closed for the week on April 20, so we walked the two minutes to Schutzenbach and caught the bus to Stechelberg (3.40 CHF each return). Once in Stechelberg, we took the Schilthorn cable car to Gimmelwald and then on to Murren (10.20 CHF each return).
http://www.switzerland.isyours.com/e...and/muren.html
We had a loose plan of doing some more sledding, but unsurprisingly, the funicular to the Allmendhubel and the sledge runs had also closed on April 20. Plan B was to walk the North Face Trail, one of my personal favorites. The information board in Murren indicated that the trail was open, so we walked up the steep path to Pension Sonneberg, which is paved and was completely clear. At the closed pension the path abruptly disappeared under several feet of snow. We tromped back and forth looking for the elusive trail, but found nothing. We worked our way towards Restaurant Suppenalp, where we finally located a quasi trail, which we suspect was an ungroomed ski piste. No skiers were in sight, so we slid down the piste, accidentally stumbling upon the North Face Trail in the process, and finding it completely impassable due to deep snow. Open? I think not. Unwilling to risk life and limb, we took a pass and worked our way back to Murren via the ski piste. The first 30-40 minutes of this convoluted tramp were tough, as it was straight up from Murren; the last 30-40 minutes were knee killers, as it was straight back down. Not exactly what I had in mind, but a scenic little hike all the same (1:45, 2.5 miles).
We rewarded our efforts with an alfresco lunch at the Hotel Alpenruh restaurant, where we dined on their terrace with those in-your-face views of the Eiger and Monch. Bill had the barley soup, I had the potato soup and in an effort not to be piggish, we shared a dish of apple strudel with vanilla sauce – delish. (39 CHF with one drink each).
We returned to Stechelberg the way we had come and had to wait 45 minutes for the connecting bus to Lauterbrunnen (low season schedule). We’d already walked that route once and didn’t feel up to walking over an hour in our wet hiking boots.
After a short rest and shoe change at our apartment, we walked to the station and caught the train to Wengen (6.20 CHF each return), where we sipped drinks and checked our e-mail at the Rocks Bar (did I mention that it’s smoke free?). While there, we asked the bartender if she could make a recommendation for dinner and she suggested Hotel Steinbock in Lauterbrunnen, even calling ahead to make sure it was open. This turned out to be a great suggestion and we enjoyed our meal there. Bill was still on his pizza kick, so he had the Quatro Stagioni (21 CHF) and I had the Racelette (13.50 CHF). Both were good.
Next up: It was bound to happen, our final day in the Berner Oberland…
Amazingly, the weather gods were still on our side, as it was yet another pretty day. The Lauterbrunnen-Grutschalp cable car had closed for the week on April 20, so we walked the two minutes to Schutzenbach and caught the bus to Stechelberg (3.40 CHF each return). Once in Stechelberg, we took the Schilthorn cable car to Gimmelwald and then on to Murren (10.20 CHF each return).
http://www.switzerland.isyours.com/e...and/muren.html
We had a loose plan of doing some more sledding, but unsurprisingly, the funicular to the Allmendhubel and the sledge runs had also closed on April 20. Plan B was to walk the North Face Trail, one of my personal favorites. The information board in Murren indicated that the trail was open, so we walked up the steep path to Pension Sonneberg, which is paved and was completely clear. At the closed pension the path abruptly disappeared under several feet of snow. We tromped back and forth looking for the elusive trail, but found nothing. We worked our way towards Restaurant Suppenalp, where we finally located a quasi trail, which we suspect was an ungroomed ski piste. No skiers were in sight, so we slid down the piste, accidentally stumbling upon the North Face Trail in the process, and finding it completely impassable due to deep snow. Open? I think not. Unwilling to risk life and limb, we took a pass and worked our way back to Murren via the ski piste. The first 30-40 minutes of this convoluted tramp were tough, as it was straight up from Murren; the last 30-40 minutes were knee killers, as it was straight back down. Not exactly what I had in mind, but a scenic little hike all the same (1:45, 2.5 miles).
We rewarded our efforts with an alfresco lunch at the Hotel Alpenruh restaurant, where we dined on their terrace with those in-your-face views of the Eiger and Monch. Bill had the barley soup, I had the potato soup and in an effort not to be piggish, we shared a dish of apple strudel with vanilla sauce – delish. (39 CHF with one drink each).
We returned to Stechelberg the way we had come and had to wait 45 minutes for the connecting bus to Lauterbrunnen (low season schedule). We’d already walked that route once and didn’t feel up to walking over an hour in our wet hiking boots.
After a short rest and shoe change at our apartment, we walked to the station and caught the train to Wengen (6.20 CHF each return), where we sipped drinks and checked our e-mail at the Rocks Bar (did I mention that it’s smoke free?). While there, we asked the bartender if she could make a recommendation for dinner and she suggested Hotel Steinbock in Lauterbrunnen, even calling ahead to make sure it was open. This turned out to be a great suggestion and we enjoyed our meal there. Bill was still on his pizza kick, so he had the Quatro Stagioni (21 CHF) and I had the Racelette (13.50 CHF). Both were good.
Next up: It was bound to happen, our final day in the Berner Oberland…
Jun 4th, 2009, 10:58 PM
#58
April 24, 2009: A stinkweg, a surly waiter and one final knee killer…
Sadly, it was our final day in the Berner Oberland, and another pretty one at that. We took the train from Lauterbrunnen to Wengen (3.10 CHF each one way) and set out on the hike to Leiterhorn. The path begins near the Hotel Jungfraublick and steeply climbs to the woods, then winds through forest and meadow. It ends at a viewpoint overlooking the Lauterbrunnen valley and Interlaken, and the views from up here are pretty incredible.
After a Lindt break on the strategically placed bench, we returned to Wengen via the alternate ‘castle’ route, which led past a house that vaguely looks like a castle. The views walking down were just as pretty as those at the viewpoint; we could see directly up the Lauterbrunnen valley with its waterfalls and the towering Alps overhead. It was just so darn gorgeous; oh, to have a house up here! Were it not for the haze, I could have gotten some fantastic photos.
After passing the ‘castle’ the trail led us past chicken pens and more countryside, most of which had been sprayed with a fresh application of the most offensively pungent fertilizer we’d ever smelled (sheep? cow? chicken?). We’re not strangers to spring fertilizing in Switzerland, but this was positively foul; we actually had to pinch our noses as we passed (total walk time 90 minutes, 2.8 miles return).
There were only two restaurants open for lunch in Wengen, so we chose Da Sina Pizzeria, where we each had a bowl of decadently rich cream soup with white wine and garlic. It was excellent, but a bit pricy at 12 CHF each. We’d asked for tap water and were surprised when our bill included a 4 CHF charge for water. When we questioned it, our surly waiter abruptly told us it was on the menu and left. We checked the menu, and sure enough, right there in black and white it stated that there’s a four franc charge for a pitcher of tap water. It was the first time we’d ever been charged for tap water in Switzerland and it really put us off.
Before leaving Wengen, we popped into the waschsalon located behind the Silberhorn Hotel just to see if they’d replaced the ancient washing machine and dryer since we’d last visited in 2004, when it took us 4.5 hours and 24 francs to wash three small loads of light weight clothing. They hadn’t. Unless I’m missing something, there still seems to be a big self-service laundry void in Wengen.
After lunch we walked back to Lauterbrunnen. This is a steep descent and we found ourselves walking in zig zags to take the pressure off our knees. We won’t need to walk this one again (walk time just over an hour, two miles).
Then it was back to the apartment to recover and pack for the next day’s departure (sob).
Next up: Our final train journey and an overnight in Zurich…
Sadly, it was our final day in the Berner Oberland, and another pretty one at that. We took the train from Lauterbrunnen to Wengen (3.10 CHF each one way) and set out on the hike to Leiterhorn. The path begins near the Hotel Jungfraublick and steeply climbs to the woods, then winds through forest and meadow. It ends at a viewpoint overlooking the Lauterbrunnen valley and Interlaken, and the views from up here are pretty incredible.
After a Lindt break on the strategically placed bench, we returned to Wengen via the alternate ‘castle’ route, which led past a house that vaguely looks like a castle. The views walking down were just as pretty as those at the viewpoint; we could see directly up the Lauterbrunnen valley with its waterfalls and the towering Alps overhead. It was just so darn gorgeous; oh, to have a house up here! Were it not for the haze, I could have gotten some fantastic photos.
After passing the ‘castle’ the trail led us past chicken pens and more countryside, most of which had been sprayed with a fresh application of the most offensively pungent fertilizer we’d ever smelled (sheep? cow? chicken?). We’re not strangers to spring fertilizing in Switzerland, but this was positively foul; we actually had to pinch our noses as we passed (total walk time 90 minutes, 2.8 miles return).
There were only two restaurants open for lunch in Wengen, so we chose Da Sina Pizzeria, where we each had a bowl of decadently rich cream soup with white wine and garlic. It was excellent, but a bit pricy at 12 CHF each. We’d asked for tap water and were surprised when our bill included a 4 CHF charge for water. When we questioned it, our surly waiter abruptly told us it was on the menu and left. We checked the menu, and sure enough, right there in black and white it stated that there’s a four franc charge for a pitcher of tap water. It was the first time we’d ever been charged for tap water in Switzerland and it really put us off.
Before leaving Wengen, we popped into the waschsalon located behind the Silberhorn Hotel just to see if they’d replaced the ancient washing machine and dryer since we’d last visited in 2004, when it took us 4.5 hours and 24 francs to wash three small loads of light weight clothing. They hadn’t. Unless I’m missing something, there still seems to be a big self-service laundry void in Wengen.
After lunch we walked back to Lauterbrunnen. This is a steep descent and we found ourselves walking in zig zags to take the pressure off our knees. We won’t need to walk this one again (walk time just over an hour, two miles).
Then it was back to the apartment to recover and pack for the next day’s departure (sob).
Next up: Our final train journey and an overnight in Zurich…
Jun 4th, 2009, 11:51 PM
#59
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Hi Melnq8,
Continuing to LOVE and hate your report. Such sweet agony!
Just a note on European washers. The "fast" cycle is 50 minutes, and the regular cycle is 90 minutes. Most coin-operated machines (like the one where I rented a Ferienwohnung in Grainau, Germany) cost around 5E per load.
So your laundry problems were not because of the age of the machine; your experience was fairly standard.
((I always did laundry in the sink, need I say . . ))
s
Continuing to LOVE and hate your report. Such sweet agony!
Just a note on European washers. The "fast" cycle is 50 minutes, and the regular cycle is 90 minutes. Most coin-operated machines (like the one where I rented a Ferienwohnung in Grainau, Germany) cost around 5E per load.
So your laundry problems were not because of the age of the machine; your experience was fairly standard.
((I always did laundry in the sink, need I say . . ))
s
Jun 5th, 2009, 02:29 AM
#60
"four franc charge for a pitcher of tap water"
This will happen more and more. I've been charged even more for a pitcher of water. In the past, restaurants have made much of their money off beverage margins. It has become accepted among most Swiss that if you drink tap water only, the restaurant has a right to charge for it. The restaurants have to survive somehow. Remember, their turnover is much less than in the States because our lunches and dinners take much longer.
This will happen more and more. I've been charged even more for a pitcher of water. In the past, restaurants have made much of their money off beverage margins. It has become accepted among most Swiss that if you drink tap water only, the restaurant has a right to charge for it. The restaurants have to survive somehow. Remember, their turnover is much less than in the States because our lunches and dinners take much longer.
