April in the Alps: A Swiss Walkabout
May 28th, 2009, 04:26 PM
#21
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I have always been a huge proponent of recommending Zermatt to my friends. From my first visit there oh-so-many years ago, it has always welcomed me as a long-lost resident.
However, I must admit that the continued construction has -- well, not ruined it, but in a way, it just seems like you say, entirely too busy. There are cranes everywhere, buildings going waaay up into the hills, and the tourists in summer..
I long for the way it was, but I suppose that's progress. I will continue to return, looking for the less-traveled hikes, away from the throngs.
This is such an enjoyable read, Melinq8. Now, off to view your photos!
However, I must admit that the continued construction has -- well, not ruined it, but in a way, it just seems like you say, entirely too busy. There are cranes everywhere, buildings going waaay up into the hills, and the tourists in summer..
I long for the way it was, but I suppose that's progress. I will continue to return, looking for the less-traveled hikes, away from the throngs.
This is such an enjoyable read, Melinq8. Now, off to view your photos!
May 28th, 2009, 05:07 PM
#22
I agree with you wholeheartedly swisshiker. My husband is much more of a Zermatt fan than I am, but he referred to it as 'zooish' more than once on this trip, so perhaps I can talk him into skipping it next time! I like it just fine in the off-off season (November, early Decemember, early May), but otherwise...
I feel about Kona, HI the way you feel about Zermatt...I long for the way it used to be. I knew it way back when, and well, I liked it much better then.
I feel about Kona, HI the way you feel about Zermatt...I long for the way it used to be. I knew it way back when, and well, I liked it much better then.
May 28th, 2009, 08:55 PM
#24
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Hi again guys,
You know, an old poster on this board used to call Zermatt the "Manhattan of the mountains" because of all that construction. I must admit that I only visited once, and that was enough for me. Oh, the hiking in the area is superb! But the village left me . . . well. . .cold, lol!
s
You know, an old poster on this board used to call Zermatt the "Manhattan of the mountains" because of all that construction. I must admit that I only visited once, and that was enough for me. Oh, the hiking in the area is superb! But the village left me . . . well. . .cold, lol!
s
May 29th, 2009, 04:39 PM
#25
April 15, 2009 – Time to go sledding…
After a hotel breakfast of bread, cheese, ham and my favorite Swiss beverage, a mug (or two) of Suchard steaming hot chocolate, we walked to the Gornergrat station, and purchased return tickets (34.50 CHF each). We’d scouted out the station the previous day and had been assisted by an incredibly helpful employee who cheerfully answered every inane question we tossed her way. Thanks to her, we’d come up with a plan on how to spend our day in the mountains.
http://www.gornergrat.ch/home/
We boarded the cog train with a thousand of our closest friends, dodging errant skis and poles and doing our best to not get skewered.
We detrained at Riffelalp and took the 10 minute walk to the Riffelalp Resort, which sits in an enviable position at an elevation of 7,290 feet, directly facing the Matterhorn. I wouldn’t mind chilling out up here for a few days, but I’ll have to rob a bank first.
www.riffelalp.com/
We returned to the station, and caught the train to Rotenboden, where we rented sleds (8 CHF each for ½ day). We asked the station employees if they’d look after our hiking poles - sharp pointy objects and sleds don’t mix, and it’d be just like me to impale myself - they were happy to oblige. Our plan was to sled from Rotenboden down to Riffelberg, then take the train back up to Rotenboden (4 CHF each), then sled down to Riffelberg then take the train back up to Rotenboden, then sled down to Riffelberg…..
Yes, we’re a bit long of tooth to be sledding…but we both have fond memories of a trip to Murren a few years back when we sledded from Murren to Gimmelwald, taking the cable car back to Murren just to do it all over again…and again…and again. It was an absolute blast, and I can’t remember the last time I had so much fun (or was so sore!).
So, we were trying to recapture that magical day. What we hadn’t counted on, was the steepest, slickest sledge run we’d ever encountered.
It began innocently enough. We started down the hill on our finely tuned sleds…we gathered speed…we whipped around one curve, then the next, going faster, faster…Bill vanished around a bend and I immediately realized why…there was a hairpin curve dead ahead…I panicked and tried to brake with my feet…I lost control, fell off the sled, knocked my head on the concrete-like snow and skidded down the hill, scraping my leg on the sharp edges of the groomed run in the process…..the sled kept going…and going…and going……it jumped the embankment, took to the air and disappeared….directly towards the train tracks…..
I lay there in a daze…when I realized I was still alive, I got up and tried to walk down the hill; but it was futile, it was just too steep and slick. I opted to scoot down on my backside instead. What a sight that must have been…
I eventually spotted Bill, who had seen the sled fly overhead and was probably wondering where the heck his wife had gone. We began searching for the runaway sled, worried to death that it had struck someone, but alas, we found it out in the sticks on the opposite side of a safety barrier. It had flown over the barrier and buried itself in a snow drift. Deep sigh of relief…
I knew I needed to climb right back on that sled and show that sledge run from hell who was boss, so we got on the train and headed back up to Rotenboden to give it another go. But my confidence was shot, I’d lost my mojo. While Bill zipped down the run, I set the record for slowest descent of all time (insert chicken sounds here).
When I finally caught up with Bill in Riffelberg we dropped off our sleds, and hopped on the train to Gornergrat, going all the way to the top this time. We explored all the overlooks, took a gazillion snaps of the Matterhorn, and enjoyed a glass of wine as we soaked up the gorgeous scenery.
We reluctantly left Gornergrat, taking the train down to Rotenboden one last time, where we attempted to collect our abandoned hiking poles. Apparently, while I was trying to kill myself on the sledge run, there’d been a shift change; but we eventually managed to communicate what we were after, and we were soon trudging along the groomed wanderweg back down to Riffelberg. I loved this walk, all the more so because it was such a beautiful day. The sky was a magnificent blue and made the perfect backdrop for those towering snow drenched Alps and we had the entire path to ourselves. (Total walk time just under an hour, 1.75 miles).
From Riffelberg we caught the train back to Zermatt, ending a very full day in the spectacular Swiss Alps.
That evening we dined at another of our favorites, Restaurant Walliserkanne, which has a huge varied menu and really good food. Bill had the Rosti with ham, cheese and egg (24 CHF) and I had the Raclette (8.50 CHF). We agreed it was our best meal so far and the Raclette was a deal by Swiss standards.
Next up: Snow, glorious snow…
After a hotel breakfast of bread, cheese, ham and my favorite Swiss beverage, a mug (or two) of Suchard steaming hot chocolate, we walked to the Gornergrat station, and purchased return tickets (34.50 CHF each). We’d scouted out the station the previous day and had been assisted by an incredibly helpful employee who cheerfully answered every inane question we tossed her way. Thanks to her, we’d come up with a plan on how to spend our day in the mountains.
http://www.gornergrat.ch/home/
We boarded the cog train with a thousand of our closest friends, dodging errant skis and poles and doing our best to not get skewered.
We detrained at Riffelalp and took the 10 minute walk to the Riffelalp Resort, which sits in an enviable position at an elevation of 7,290 feet, directly facing the Matterhorn. I wouldn’t mind chilling out up here for a few days, but I’ll have to rob a bank first.
www.riffelalp.com/
We returned to the station, and caught the train to Rotenboden, where we rented sleds (8 CHF each for ½ day). We asked the station employees if they’d look after our hiking poles - sharp pointy objects and sleds don’t mix, and it’d be just like me to impale myself - they were happy to oblige. Our plan was to sled from Rotenboden down to Riffelberg, then take the train back up to Rotenboden (4 CHF each), then sled down to Riffelberg then take the train back up to Rotenboden, then sled down to Riffelberg…..
Yes, we’re a bit long of tooth to be sledding…but we both have fond memories of a trip to Murren a few years back when we sledded from Murren to Gimmelwald, taking the cable car back to Murren just to do it all over again…and again…and again. It was an absolute blast, and I can’t remember the last time I had so much fun (or was so sore!).
So, we were trying to recapture that magical day. What we hadn’t counted on, was the steepest, slickest sledge run we’d ever encountered.
It began innocently enough. We started down the hill on our finely tuned sleds…we gathered speed…we whipped around one curve, then the next, going faster, faster…Bill vanished around a bend and I immediately realized why…there was a hairpin curve dead ahead…I panicked and tried to brake with my feet…I lost control, fell off the sled, knocked my head on the concrete-like snow and skidded down the hill, scraping my leg on the sharp edges of the groomed run in the process…..the sled kept going…and going…and going……it jumped the embankment, took to the air and disappeared….directly towards the train tracks…..
I lay there in a daze…when I realized I was still alive, I got up and tried to walk down the hill; but it was futile, it was just too steep and slick. I opted to scoot down on my backside instead. What a sight that must have been…
I eventually spotted Bill, who had seen the sled fly overhead and was probably wondering where the heck his wife had gone. We began searching for the runaway sled, worried to death that it had struck someone, but alas, we found it out in the sticks on the opposite side of a safety barrier. It had flown over the barrier and buried itself in a snow drift. Deep sigh of relief…
I knew I needed to climb right back on that sled and show that sledge run from hell who was boss, so we got on the train and headed back up to Rotenboden to give it another go. But my confidence was shot, I’d lost my mojo. While Bill zipped down the run, I set the record for slowest descent of all time (insert chicken sounds here).
When I finally caught up with Bill in Riffelberg we dropped off our sleds, and hopped on the train to Gornergrat, going all the way to the top this time. We explored all the overlooks, took a gazillion snaps of the Matterhorn, and enjoyed a glass of wine as we soaked up the gorgeous scenery.
We reluctantly left Gornergrat, taking the train down to Rotenboden one last time, where we attempted to collect our abandoned hiking poles. Apparently, while I was trying to kill myself on the sledge run, there’d been a shift change; but we eventually managed to communicate what we were after, and we were soon trudging along the groomed wanderweg back down to Riffelberg. I loved this walk, all the more so because it was such a beautiful day. The sky was a magnificent blue and made the perfect backdrop for those towering snow drenched Alps and we had the entire path to ourselves. (Total walk time just under an hour, 1.75 miles).
From Riffelberg we caught the train back to Zermatt, ending a very full day in the spectacular Swiss Alps.
That evening we dined at another of our favorites, Restaurant Walliserkanne, which has a huge varied menu and really good food. Bill had the Rosti with ham, cheese and egg (24 CHF) and I had the Raclette (8.50 CHF). We agreed it was our best meal so far and the Raclette was a deal by Swiss standards.
Next up: Snow, glorious snow…
May 29th, 2009, 05:44 PM
#26
May 29th, 2009, 05:59 PM
#27
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Oh, Melnq8, you're killing me! 
Great report!
Your sledging sounds absolutely fascinating, and so fun! I can imagine the thoughts running thru your head as you were skidding. I remember skiing one of the Matterhorn runs many years ago, fell while going down the icy glacier, and there was nowhere to dig in my boots. I must have slid 50 or more feet - felt like 50 miles, lol! All the way down, I was thinking this was it, my life was over. Anyway, glad you escaped safely!
The Walliserkanne is my favorite in Zermatt. Their spatzli with onions and cheese is so delicious, as is their lamb roast and gratinated potatoes. Oooooh, yum! Haven't had the raclette there...yet!
This is so delightful! Thanks!
Great report!Your sledging sounds absolutely fascinating, and so fun! I can imagine the thoughts running thru your head as you were skidding. I remember skiing one of the Matterhorn runs many years ago, fell while going down the icy glacier, and there was nowhere to dig in my boots. I must have slid 50 or more feet - felt like 50 miles, lol! All the way down, I was thinking this was it, my life was over. Anyway, glad you escaped safely!
The Walliserkanne is my favorite in Zermatt. Their spatzli with onions and cheese is so delicious, as is their lamb roast and gratinated potatoes. Oooooh, yum! Haven't had the raclette there...yet!
This is so delightful! Thanks!
May 29th, 2009, 08:57 PM
#29
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Thanks for a very interesting report and also for drawing attention to the existence or otherwise of reading lights, usually neglected in accommodation reviews, but important for some of us.
In October 1978 I had a picture perfect view of the Matterhorn from the large window of my dorm (which I had to myself) in the Youth Hostel, just a little up the hill from the main town. Probably did my reading in the common room.
In October 1978 I had a picture perfect view of the Matterhorn from the large window of my dorm (which I had to myself) in the Youth Hostel, just a little up the hill from the main town. Probably did my reading in the common room.
May 29th, 2009, 09:20 PM
#30
April 16, 2009: Our first bad weather day…
We woke to a steady rain and depressing gloom. I had a nasty scrape from the previous day’s festivities, but was otherwise intact. We’d planned to take the funicular to Sunnegga, but the inclement weather changed our minds.
Instead, we donned our rain gear and walked through Zermatt to the trail which led to Ried, a moderate track made considerably more challenging by the snow, ice and mud. It didn’t appear to be a maintained winter path and wasn’t as easy as our map had led us to believe. The slippery wet rocks and ice underfoot made it slow going. When we reached Ried, we found a shuttered restaurant, nothing more. We continued on towards Tufteren, but eventually turned back as it appeared we were walking on a ski piste. Back at Ried, we decided to walk towards Patrullarve, but this also appeared to be a ski piste, so we retreated and retraced our steps to Zermatt. We enjoyed this walk, which was 3.75 miles return and took us 2.5 hours, but I think we’d have appreciated it more in the summer. I fell three times, and we both repeatedly sank knee deep into the snow covering sections of the path. It was sleeting mightily by the time we got back to the hotel and our boots and socks were completely soaked.
After changing into dry clothes, we figured a hot lunch was in order, so it was back to the Walliserkanne for another round of Rosti and Raclette, washed down with weissbier and gluhwein (44.70 CHF). Good stuff.
We sat out the wet sloppy weather that afternoon and fully utilized those great reading lights, as we watched the sleet turn into a heavy spring snow.
Next up: Sunshine and fresh powder…
We woke to a steady rain and depressing gloom. I had a nasty scrape from the previous day’s festivities, but was otherwise intact. We’d planned to take the funicular to Sunnegga, but the inclement weather changed our minds.
Instead, we donned our rain gear and walked through Zermatt to the trail which led to Ried, a moderate track made considerably more challenging by the snow, ice and mud. It didn’t appear to be a maintained winter path and wasn’t as easy as our map had led us to believe. The slippery wet rocks and ice underfoot made it slow going. When we reached Ried, we found a shuttered restaurant, nothing more. We continued on towards Tufteren, but eventually turned back as it appeared we were walking on a ski piste. Back at Ried, we decided to walk towards Patrullarve, but this also appeared to be a ski piste, so we retreated and retraced our steps to Zermatt. We enjoyed this walk, which was 3.75 miles return and took us 2.5 hours, but I think we’d have appreciated it more in the summer. I fell three times, and we both repeatedly sank knee deep into the snow covering sections of the path. It was sleeting mightily by the time we got back to the hotel and our boots and socks were completely soaked.
After changing into dry clothes, we figured a hot lunch was in order, so it was back to the Walliserkanne for another round of Rosti and Raclette, washed down with weissbier and gluhwein (44.70 CHF). Good stuff.
We sat out the wet sloppy weather that afternoon and fully utilized those great reading lights, as we watched the sleet turn into a heavy spring snow.
Next up: Sunshine and fresh powder…
May 29th, 2009, 11:34 PM
#32
Hi Melnq8:
Ah, sled runs. They are only a blast when conditions are right. The snow is soft and powdery and the runs are not icy. It makes me so angry when resorts advertise sled runs but don't keep them safe.
The Rigi has a sled run that has lots of curves and can be very icy. I refuse to go on it unless conditions are 100% to my liking. In my opinion, when the sled run is icy, it should be not be opened. Just too dangerous.
I've known Swiss people, who should be used to sled runs, receive concussions from hitting their heads to ripping their legs open by barbwire because they couldn't break due to the ice.
Sorry about your bad experience. I would have complained to the Zermatt sled rental agency for allowing tourists to go on such icy terrain without warning. Unfortunately, some of these sled rental employees are people who really don't care about safety of others and let the complaints fall on deaf ears.
Ah, sled runs. They are only a blast when conditions are right. The snow is soft and powdery and the runs are not icy. It makes me so angry when resorts advertise sled runs but don't keep them safe.
The Rigi has a sled run that has lots of curves and can be very icy. I refuse to go on it unless conditions are 100% to my liking. In my opinion, when the sled run is icy, it should be not be opened. Just too dangerous.
I've known Swiss people, who should be used to sled runs, receive concussions from hitting their heads to ripping their legs open by barbwire because they couldn't break due to the ice.
Sorry about your bad experience. I would have complained to the Zermatt sled rental agency for allowing tourists to go on such icy terrain without warning. Unfortunately, some of these sled rental employees are people who really don't care about safety of others and let the complaints fall on deaf ears.
May 30th, 2009, 12:47 AM
#33
Hi schuler -
Yikes. Maybe that explains why we only saw two other people up there, and we only saw them make one run. I have to admit, I thought of Natasha Richardson when I bonked my head. Next time, I'll rent a helmet, but now that I think about it, I didn't see any helmets at the sled rental place.
Yikes. Maybe that explains why we only saw two other people up there, and we only saw them make one run. I have to admit, I thought of Natasha Richardson when I bonked my head. Next time, I'll rent a helmet, but now that I think about it, I didn't see any helmets at the sled rental place.
May 31st, 2009, 12:44 AM
#35
April 17, 2009: Hiking in new fallen snow…
We woke to a beautiful cold day, a thick layer of fresh snow, and a fabulous view of the Matterhorn from our balcony. I still wanted to visit Sunnegga, as it was the only Zermatt mountain excursion we’d never taken. So, we walked the 15 minutes to the station and purchased return tickets (11.50 CHF each). The underground funicular was packed with skiers, but it took a mere three minutes to reach the top.
We’d learned that there were two winter hiking trails accessible from Sunnegga, but it wasn’t clear if the higher of the two was open (the information board showed the lift was closed, but we were told by an employee it could open at any time). So, instead of purchasing tickets for the entire trip, we decided to play it by ear, even though round trip, multi-leg tickets are generally less expensive.
http://bergbahnen.zermatt.ch/e/peaks/sunnegga.html
Once at Sunnegga we floundered a bit, unable to locate the wanderweg to Tuftern. We finally had to ask a chairlift operator if he could point us in the right direction, and he indicated that we needed to dodge the skiers on the ski piste to access the trail. Our hearts sank when we found that the path hadn’t been groomed and was pretty much buried. But we forged on, breaking a trail in the fresh powder - and we’re so glad we did - it was absolutely gorgeous! We loved, loved, loved this trail, which led through forest alongside a ridge with expansive views of the majestic Matterhorn. It was just so darn pretty; the fresh fallen snow, the eye popping panorama…it reminded me of the walk from Grutschalp to Murren…views galore.
When we reached the Tuftern Restaurant, it was closed, but we heard activity inside, so we plopped ourselves down on a bench and watched the deer and chamois gather below the restaurant at a feeding station. We were eventually invited into the restaurant (which was actually just a counter that sold limited items). The owner cleared the snow from a table and chairs on the patio and we enjoyed our weissbier and gluhwein with schnapps while gazing at the Matterhorn.
We backtracked to Sunnegga (total walk time 90 minutes, two miles, easy but slow due to the deep snow), and purchased a cable car ticket to Blauherd (10 CHF each turn). We thought we’d have lunch at the Blauherd Restaurant before checking out that second hiking trail. Unfortunately, when we reached Blauherd we found the restaurant closed and we couldn’t find the trail. As we stood around wondering what to do, we noticed a lone hiker amongst all the skiers, headed up the ski run. She looked like she knew where she was going, so we followed her and sure enough, she led us right to the trail. We were soon trudging along the nicely groomed wanderweg, headed to Fluhalp.
The trail to Fluhalp is all uphill; it’s located on Rothorn Mountain surrounded by the ski runs of Rothorn Paradise.
http://www.host-pages.co.uk/mrg/guid.../restzer6.html
The trail was well maintained and challenging. By the time we reached the first hill, we were tearing off our clothes. As we approached Fluhalp we heard music, so we were pretty sure the restaurant was open – for which we were very thankful - we were tired and hungry.
Fluhalp Restaurant was hopping – many of the tables had been reserved by skiers, but we were able to locate a table on the sundeck and had ourselves a nice lunch of potato soup with brot, weissbier and wine (32 CHF) while enjoying the Matterhorn from yet another vantage point. It’s funny how good everything tastes when sitting on a sundeck in Switzerland surrounded by snow covered mountains!
Our shoes and socks were wet, so we just hung out for awhile, warming up our feet, soaking up the sun and willing our shoes to dry (didn’t work).
We finally tore ourselves away and backtracked to Blauherd, wearing only our short sleeves by the time we arrived. (Total walking distance four miles, not sure of time as we forgot to reset our GPS). We took the cable car back to Sunnegga and the funicular back to Zermatt.
For our last dinner in Zermatt we returned to the Walliserkanne (we couldn’t help ourselves, the food is really good there!), where Bill had the pizza Rosti and I had Rosti with cheese (60.20 CHF with beer and wine).
Next up: Lauterbrunnen, here we come…
We woke to a beautiful cold day, a thick layer of fresh snow, and a fabulous view of the Matterhorn from our balcony. I still wanted to visit Sunnegga, as it was the only Zermatt mountain excursion we’d never taken. So, we walked the 15 minutes to the station and purchased return tickets (11.50 CHF each). The underground funicular was packed with skiers, but it took a mere three minutes to reach the top.
We’d learned that there were two winter hiking trails accessible from Sunnegga, but it wasn’t clear if the higher of the two was open (the information board showed the lift was closed, but we were told by an employee it could open at any time). So, instead of purchasing tickets for the entire trip, we decided to play it by ear, even though round trip, multi-leg tickets are generally less expensive.
http://bergbahnen.zermatt.ch/e/peaks/sunnegga.html
Once at Sunnegga we floundered a bit, unable to locate the wanderweg to Tuftern. We finally had to ask a chairlift operator if he could point us in the right direction, and he indicated that we needed to dodge the skiers on the ski piste to access the trail. Our hearts sank when we found that the path hadn’t been groomed and was pretty much buried. But we forged on, breaking a trail in the fresh powder - and we’re so glad we did - it was absolutely gorgeous! We loved, loved, loved this trail, which led through forest alongside a ridge with expansive views of the majestic Matterhorn. It was just so darn pretty; the fresh fallen snow, the eye popping panorama…it reminded me of the walk from Grutschalp to Murren…views galore.
When we reached the Tuftern Restaurant, it was closed, but we heard activity inside, so we plopped ourselves down on a bench and watched the deer and chamois gather below the restaurant at a feeding station. We were eventually invited into the restaurant (which was actually just a counter that sold limited items). The owner cleared the snow from a table and chairs on the patio and we enjoyed our weissbier and gluhwein with schnapps while gazing at the Matterhorn.
We backtracked to Sunnegga (total walk time 90 minutes, two miles, easy but slow due to the deep snow), and purchased a cable car ticket to Blauherd (10 CHF each turn). We thought we’d have lunch at the Blauherd Restaurant before checking out that second hiking trail. Unfortunately, when we reached Blauherd we found the restaurant closed and we couldn’t find the trail. As we stood around wondering what to do, we noticed a lone hiker amongst all the skiers, headed up the ski run. She looked like she knew where she was going, so we followed her and sure enough, she led us right to the trail. We were soon trudging along the nicely groomed wanderweg, headed to Fluhalp.
The trail to Fluhalp is all uphill; it’s located on Rothorn Mountain surrounded by the ski runs of Rothorn Paradise.
http://www.host-pages.co.uk/mrg/guid.../restzer6.html
The trail was well maintained and challenging. By the time we reached the first hill, we were tearing off our clothes. As we approached Fluhalp we heard music, so we were pretty sure the restaurant was open – for which we were very thankful - we were tired and hungry.
Fluhalp Restaurant was hopping – many of the tables had been reserved by skiers, but we were able to locate a table on the sundeck and had ourselves a nice lunch of potato soup with brot, weissbier and wine (32 CHF) while enjoying the Matterhorn from yet another vantage point. It’s funny how good everything tastes when sitting on a sundeck in Switzerland surrounded by snow covered mountains!
Our shoes and socks were wet, so we just hung out for awhile, warming up our feet, soaking up the sun and willing our shoes to dry (didn’t work).
We finally tore ourselves away and backtracked to Blauherd, wearing only our short sleeves by the time we arrived. (Total walking distance four miles, not sure of time as we forgot to reset our GPS). We took the cable car back to Sunnegga and the funicular back to Zermatt.
For our last dinner in Zermatt we returned to the Walliserkanne (we couldn’t help ourselves, the food is really good there!), where Bill had the pizza Rosti and I had Rosti with cheese (60.20 CHF with beer and wine).
Next up: Lauterbrunnen, here we come…
May 31st, 2009, 08:17 PM
#36
April 18, 2009: A mountain of luggage, a short-tempered bus driver and a fantastic apartment…
When we checked out of Hotel Antika, we were offered a ride to the train station and I realized I hadn’t even considered that they’d have picked us up in the first place.
We purchased one way tickets to Lauterbrunnen via Visp (40.50 CHF each) and boarded the train, snagging a spot for our luggage at the end of the car. As we sat there, we watched person after person board the train and pile their bags on top of ours. Before we knew it, our luggage had completely disappeared under a mountain of bags and skis. By the time the train pulled out, it was practically bursting. I’d never been on a full train leaving Zermatt…then it dawned on me that Easter week had ended and it was Saturday, the turn over date for most apartments and some hotels. Ah ha!
In true Swiss style the train left on time, but came to a halt a few minutes later. The delay wasn’t more than 10 minutes, but it was enough to create a mild panic for those with close connections, and there was a mad rush to get off the train and collect luggage when we arrived in Visp. We knew we weren’t going anywhere as our luggage was on the bottom of the heap, so we remained seated, figuring we could always catch the next train. When we finally got off, we noticed that train employees were standing by to help unload luggage and get passengers on their way. It was efficient and smooth and we actually made our connection, despite scrambling up and down stairs with our luggage in tow, as they held our train for three minutes. You gotta love the Swiss!
We changed trains again at Spiez and were approached by a man who asked if we could assist him in getting to Murren. We told him to follow us. Once in Lauterbrunnen we explained he could get to Murren by bus to Stechelberg then cable car to Gimmelwald and Murren or by cable car to Grutschalp and train to Murren. He seemed to think his ticket was for the bus, so he followed us to the bus stop, where the bus driver told him his ticket was for the cable car. We pointed him towards the cable car, but he kept telling the bus driver his ticket was for the bus, and began waving a letter from his travel agent telling him not to take the cable car (oh brother). The bus driver grew impatient, the guy was adamant, and we were in the middle of it all, just trying to figure out where to put our luggage so we could board the bus. The guy finally agreed to buy a bus ticket and we were all on our way towards Stechelberg. Drama over.
We took the bus as far as Schutzenbach (2.20 CHF each) which is about a four minute ride from the village, but very handy if you’re toting luggage.
From the bus stop it was a short walk to the apartment we’d rented for the next seven nights. I’d had my eye on this place for awhile. We planned our trip around staying here as their rates were very attractive the week following Easter, and we were able take advantage of a good GBP – USD exchange rate when we booked in late January (we paid 600 GBP).
http://www.homeaway.com/vacation-rental/p95287
We weren’t disappointed, it was very nice! The apartment consisted of two bedrooms, a large bathroom with washer and dryer, a wonderfully equipped kitchen, a dining room and spacious lounge that opened out to the patio (complete with BBQ grill). The place was spotless, incredibly comfortable and offered fantastic views of the Breithorn and Staubbach Falls. The British owners have provided just about everything a person could possibly need during their stay. They even left us a bottle of wine, coffee, tea, milk and cookies.
I almost hate to mention the only teensy issue we had, which was the double bed in the master bedroom. A queen would have been much appreciated, but regardless, we’d still go back in a heartbeat.
NOTE: This apartment is one of several similar apartments in the same area, some of which appear on the Home Away site above.
After getting settled, we walked back to town on the riverside footpath (10 minutes give or take) and sought out lunch. It was after 2 pm, so pickins were slim. We found ourselves seated on the patio of Restaurant Schutzen…. we thought we’d understood the waitress to say they weren’t serving lunch, so we figured we’d just have a drink and soak up the scenery. Another couple was seated, ordered and the waitress brought them a hot meal. Huh. Then a third couple was seated and after some conversation, they went inside and helped themselves to the salad bar. The waitress suddenly seemed to remember that we had asked about lunch, so she came back to our table and offered us salad. We were hungry, so we each helped ourselves to a modest plate of salad. I about fell out of my chair when we were presented with a bill for 37 CHF (we’d already paid for our drinks, this was just for the salad). Ouch. We later looked at the menu – I suspect we’d been charged 18.50 CHF each for unlimited salad, instead of 9.50 CHF each for a single trip through the salad bar - oh well…
Before returning to our apartment we bought provisions; cheese from the cheese shop, bread from the bakery, and a huge basket of fresh strawberries from the Coop. Yum.
That evening we got into the spirit of things by watching The Eiger Sanction and Her Majesty’s Secret Service on DVD.
Next up: A lapse in judgment on a hiking trail…
When we checked out of Hotel Antika, we were offered a ride to the train station and I realized I hadn’t even considered that they’d have picked us up in the first place.
We purchased one way tickets to Lauterbrunnen via Visp (40.50 CHF each) and boarded the train, snagging a spot for our luggage at the end of the car. As we sat there, we watched person after person board the train and pile their bags on top of ours. Before we knew it, our luggage had completely disappeared under a mountain of bags and skis. By the time the train pulled out, it was practically bursting. I’d never been on a full train leaving Zermatt…then it dawned on me that Easter week had ended and it was Saturday, the turn over date for most apartments and some hotels. Ah ha!
In true Swiss style the train left on time, but came to a halt a few minutes later. The delay wasn’t more than 10 minutes, but it was enough to create a mild panic for those with close connections, and there was a mad rush to get off the train and collect luggage when we arrived in Visp. We knew we weren’t going anywhere as our luggage was on the bottom of the heap, so we remained seated, figuring we could always catch the next train. When we finally got off, we noticed that train employees were standing by to help unload luggage and get passengers on their way. It was efficient and smooth and we actually made our connection, despite scrambling up and down stairs with our luggage in tow, as they held our train for three minutes. You gotta love the Swiss!
We changed trains again at Spiez and were approached by a man who asked if we could assist him in getting to Murren. We told him to follow us. Once in Lauterbrunnen we explained he could get to Murren by bus to Stechelberg then cable car to Gimmelwald and Murren or by cable car to Grutschalp and train to Murren. He seemed to think his ticket was for the bus, so he followed us to the bus stop, where the bus driver told him his ticket was for the cable car. We pointed him towards the cable car, but he kept telling the bus driver his ticket was for the bus, and began waving a letter from his travel agent telling him not to take the cable car (oh brother). The bus driver grew impatient, the guy was adamant, and we were in the middle of it all, just trying to figure out where to put our luggage so we could board the bus. The guy finally agreed to buy a bus ticket and we were all on our way towards Stechelberg. Drama over.
We took the bus as far as Schutzenbach (2.20 CHF each) which is about a four minute ride from the village, but very handy if you’re toting luggage.
From the bus stop it was a short walk to the apartment we’d rented for the next seven nights. I’d had my eye on this place for awhile. We planned our trip around staying here as their rates were very attractive the week following Easter, and we were able take advantage of a good GBP – USD exchange rate when we booked in late January (we paid 600 GBP).
http://www.homeaway.com/vacation-rental/p95287
We weren’t disappointed, it was very nice! The apartment consisted of two bedrooms, a large bathroom with washer and dryer, a wonderfully equipped kitchen, a dining room and spacious lounge that opened out to the patio (complete with BBQ grill). The place was spotless, incredibly comfortable and offered fantastic views of the Breithorn and Staubbach Falls. The British owners have provided just about everything a person could possibly need during their stay. They even left us a bottle of wine, coffee, tea, milk and cookies.
I almost hate to mention the only teensy issue we had, which was the double bed in the master bedroom. A queen would have been much appreciated, but regardless, we’d still go back in a heartbeat.
NOTE: This apartment is one of several similar apartments in the same area, some of which appear on the Home Away site above.
After getting settled, we walked back to town on the riverside footpath (10 minutes give or take) and sought out lunch. It was after 2 pm, so pickins were slim. We found ourselves seated on the patio of Restaurant Schutzen…. we thought we’d understood the waitress to say they weren’t serving lunch, so we figured we’d just have a drink and soak up the scenery. Another couple was seated, ordered and the waitress brought them a hot meal. Huh. Then a third couple was seated and after some conversation, they went inside and helped themselves to the salad bar. The waitress suddenly seemed to remember that we had asked about lunch, so she came back to our table and offered us salad. We were hungry, so we each helped ourselves to a modest plate of salad. I about fell out of my chair when we were presented with a bill for 37 CHF (we’d already paid for our drinks, this was just for the salad). Ouch. We later looked at the menu – I suspect we’d been charged 18.50 CHF each for unlimited salad, instead of 9.50 CHF each for a single trip through the salad bar - oh well…
Before returning to our apartment we bought provisions; cheese from the cheese shop, bread from the bakery, and a huge basket of fresh strawberries from the Coop. Yum.
That evening we got into the spirit of things by watching The Eiger Sanction and Her Majesty’s Secret Service on DVD.
Next up: A lapse in judgment on a hiking trail…
Jun 1st, 2009, 12:49 AM
#37
April 19, 2009: Testing our old knees…
We were blessed with yet another pretty day, so we decided to take full advantage by walking from Grutschalp-Murren-Gimmelwald-Stechelberg-Lauterbrunnen, making a big loop.
We walked from the apartment to the Lauterbrunnen-Grutschalp cableway, which was still a funicular when we last visited in 2004. The new aerial cable car can transport up to 100 people in just four minutes. We purchased one way tickets to Grutschalp (4.10 CHF each), and then walked from there to Murren via Winteregg. This is an easy walk with spectacular views of the Jungfrau, Monch, and Eiger (took us 1:15). Once in Murren, we stopped at one of our favorite establishments, the Schilthorn Taverne, where we had a relaxing lunch of minestrone soup, shared salad and bread (31.20 CHF with drinks).
After lunch we continued our walk, picking up the trail to Gimmelwald (all downhill, part road, part path). For whatever reason, Gimmelwald has more than its share of fans and detractors alike, and there was a time when I wouldn’t have considered staying there - but people change - now I could very much see myself spending some quality time in Gimmelwald…hiking, soaking up the views, and hiking some more…
As we came upon the trail to Stechelberg we were stopped dead in our tracks by a sign telling us it was closed. A nearby resident overheard us talking and assured us that the path was indeed open, that the sign was just out-of-date. So we kept going, and we were soon on a bergweg (mountain trail) with a steep descent. When we reached Sefinen Lutschine, there was an ominous sign that said ‘closed due to avalanche’ and we began to question that outdated sign above. We decided to keep going, as we’d come so far already and didn’t relish turning around and going back UP.
It wasn’t long before things got a bit dicey…the snow got deeper and there was evidence of some rather large landslips and rockslides….the bridge railing had been sheared off by falling rock, but surprisingly the trail was still relatively intact. We walked through this area quickly, quietly and without stopping, but still had a bit of a scare when a large rock fell about ten yards ahead of Bill.
It definitely wasn’t the smartest thing we’d ever done, but we made it unscathed and were soon continuing down to Stechelberg, where we arrived 90 minutes after leaving Murren.
Despite the scary bits, we enjoyed this walk. The steep descent made it hard on our knees, but hell, we’re old.
Once in Stechelberg, we continued walking to Lauterbrunnen - man, it felt good to be on level ground again! We made a detour at Trummelbach to see if Bill’s favorite hiking trail was open - Oh No! It was! (This is a killer hike we took many moons ago from Wengernalp to Wixi, Bigernalp, Mittlenap, Upper Preech, Lower Preech and over the upper Trummelbach Falls, then back to Lauterbrunnen.) I don’t recommend it.
I thought we’d never get home, but some 5.5 hours, 10.25 miles and an hour in the rain later, we were resting up in our apartment.
That evening we dined at the Weidstubli at Camping Jungfrau, the campground/hostel directly across the river from our apartment. This place would prove to be quite handy, as they also have a grocery store with extended hours. The stubli makes a decent four cheese pizza (16 CHF).
Next up: Taking it easy in Meiringen
We were blessed with yet another pretty day, so we decided to take full advantage by walking from Grutschalp-Murren-Gimmelwald-Stechelberg-Lauterbrunnen, making a big loop.
We walked from the apartment to the Lauterbrunnen-Grutschalp cableway, which was still a funicular when we last visited in 2004. The new aerial cable car can transport up to 100 people in just four minutes. We purchased one way tickets to Grutschalp (4.10 CHF each), and then walked from there to Murren via Winteregg. This is an easy walk with spectacular views of the Jungfrau, Monch, and Eiger (took us 1:15). Once in Murren, we stopped at one of our favorite establishments, the Schilthorn Taverne, where we had a relaxing lunch of minestrone soup, shared salad and bread (31.20 CHF with drinks).
After lunch we continued our walk, picking up the trail to Gimmelwald (all downhill, part road, part path). For whatever reason, Gimmelwald has more than its share of fans and detractors alike, and there was a time when I wouldn’t have considered staying there - but people change - now I could very much see myself spending some quality time in Gimmelwald…hiking, soaking up the views, and hiking some more…
As we came upon the trail to Stechelberg we were stopped dead in our tracks by a sign telling us it was closed. A nearby resident overheard us talking and assured us that the path was indeed open, that the sign was just out-of-date. So we kept going, and we were soon on a bergweg (mountain trail) with a steep descent. When we reached Sefinen Lutschine, there was an ominous sign that said ‘closed due to avalanche’ and we began to question that outdated sign above. We decided to keep going, as we’d come so far already and didn’t relish turning around and going back UP.
It wasn’t long before things got a bit dicey…the snow got deeper and there was evidence of some rather large landslips and rockslides….the bridge railing had been sheared off by falling rock, but surprisingly the trail was still relatively intact. We walked through this area quickly, quietly and without stopping, but still had a bit of a scare when a large rock fell about ten yards ahead of Bill.
It definitely wasn’t the smartest thing we’d ever done, but we made it unscathed and were soon continuing down to Stechelberg, where we arrived 90 minutes after leaving Murren.
Despite the scary bits, we enjoyed this walk. The steep descent made it hard on our knees, but hell, we’re old.
Once in Stechelberg, we continued walking to Lauterbrunnen - man, it felt good to be on level ground again! We made a detour at Trummelbach to see if Bill’s favorite hiking trail was open - Oh No! It was! (This is a killer hike we took many moons ago from Wengernalp to Wixi, Bigernalp, Mittlenap, Upper Preech, Lower Preech and over the upper Trummelbach Falls, then back to Lauterbrunnen.) I don’t recommend it.
I thought we’d never get home, but some 5.5 hours, 10.25 miles and an hour in the rain later, we were resting up in our apartment.
That evening we dined at the Weidstubli at Camping Jungfrau, the campground/hostel directly across the river from our apartment. This place would prove to be quite handy, as they also have a grocery store with extended hours. The stubli makes a decent four cheese pizza (16 CHF).
Next up: Taking it easy in Meiringen
Jun 1st, 2009, 04:38 PM
#38
Photos for all sections covered to date now up:
http://www.worldisround.com/articles/353524/index.html
http://www.worldisround.com/articles/353524/index.html
Jun 1st, 2009, 10:06 PM
#39
"It wasn’t long before things got a bit dicey…the snow got deeper and there was evidence of some rather large landslips and rockslides….the bridge railing had been sheared off by falling rock, but surprisingly the trail was still relatively intact. We walked through this area quickly, quietly and without stopping, but still had a bit of a scare when a large rock fell about ten yards ahead of Bill."
Usually the signs aren't out of date and the locals don't know everything. Glad it turned out to be a great adventure with no mishaps.
Last week, an American teenage boy fell off the platform at the Trummelbach falls and was never seen again. A tragic heart-breaking holiday for that devastated family.
Usually the signs aren't out of date and the locals don't know everything. Glad it turned out to be a great adventure with no mishaps.
Last week, an American teenage boy fell off the platform at the Trummelbach falls and was never seen again. A tragic heart-breaking holiday for that devastated family.
Jun 2nd, 2009, 12:44 AM
#40
Let's just say we won't be making that mistake again.
Interestingly enough, the nasty hike over the Trummelbach Falls that I was convinced would be closed, wasn't. The woman at the Visitor's Center looked alarmed when we mentioned it though, and we noticed it doesn't appear on any tourist maps. Sanity prevailed, and we took a pass on that one.
Interestingly enough, the nasty hike over the Trummelbach Falls that I was convinced would be closed, wasn't. The woman at the Visitor's Center looked alarmed when we mentioned it though, and we noticed it doesn't appear on any tourist maps. Sanity prevailed, and we took a pass on that one.
