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April in Paris...with a Side of Bordeaux

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April in Paris...with a Side of Bordeaux

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Old Apr 27th, 2016, 03:03 PM
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No further word about the TGVs to Bordeaux tomorrow. We could have stayed an extra night here in Paris, but I'd rather take my chances. If nothing else, if our particular train gets canceled, we get a full refund (78 euros for the two of us) and we get to take another train. If there is one.

Keep me up to date.I'll do the same.

We just had a lovely dinner with whathello, kerouac, and fuzzbucket, and then went to FMT's bar for a nightcap, and Mrs.FMT was there. Was lovely to meet them. Great dinner, too, at Mobilis in Mobili, but really slooooooow service.
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Old Apr 27th, 2016, 09:13 PM
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It was indeed a nice evening.

So far, it looks like all of the trains to Bordeaux are running today.
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Old Apr 27th, 2016, 09:58 PM
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Bonjour StCirq et kerouac et merci. TGV folks wrote that all is well after 8 this a.m. My train leaves at 10:28 de Gare Montparnasse.

Back to TR soon.
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Old Apr 27th, 2016, 10:35 PM
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So does ours. See you there maybe!
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Old Apr 27th, 2016, 11:48 PM
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This connection is making me crazy! Previous posts seem to arrive en masse.
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Old Apr 28th, 2016, 05:04 AM
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Wednesday, 27 Avril, 2016 part ii

Sight: Giverny

Meals: no breakfast

Lunch, Terrasse in Les Nympheas (Giverny)

Quiche Lorraine avec frites
Bougogne rouge Cote
19,80 euros

Frites earn an A, but the quiche was runny and bland so gets C. Also, it was a huge amount of food.

Dinner, Le Machon de Henri

Foie gras de canard;
Magret decanard caramelise a l'orange et au gingembre, puree de pommes;
Clafoutis aux fruit de saison (pears and plums);
Vin gamay and Bordeaux
52 euros

I gave this meal a C+. Great orange sauce and very tender duck but I expected fois gras to be warm and fat onto duck to be crispy. Clafouti had no crunch either. Another meal with too much food. Ionly ate half of each meal.

Long part next.
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Old Apr 28th, 2016, 05:24 AM
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Long version: OK, on to Giverny. I wrote above about the cab ride and the three of us looking for the ticket holders line. As you face the ticket line, turn right and see group and ticketed painted in green on the wall. The building where tickets are sold IS Monet's home.

There are quite a few other buildings. The Musee of Impressionism is further along that road on the right. Please don't confuse it with artist's atelier.

Upon entering the ticketed area, one has the option of seeing the lily pond first, and I did. The American philanthropist Annenberg donated an underground passage to it. Before, one had to cross the road. Monet got. Complaints about possible poisoning of the local waters.

My photos should show what was in bloom, but the early spring plants like forsythia were in full bloom. Azaleas, tulips and other bulbs just right. There were just a few other tourists.

Back to thehouse
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Old Apr 28th, 2016, 05:47 AM
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Kindle 3, TDudette 0.

Back to the house. It isn't huge but it is neat. The front yard has thousands of the same plants plus arches that will be covered in roses.

The house was decorated by Monet himself. I found it inviting and more than special that 2 Cezanne's are in a bath room (copies now but not then). One can leave through the gift shop that was Monet's final studio.

It took me a little over an hour and by noon:30 I was hungry. There is a less expensive cafe but Nymphaes was close. Afterwards, I peeked into the gift shop next to it and said ooh la la at the prices.

The morning cabby had given us his cards. As I spot a huge black cloud, I asked a guy if he'd call and he did. The instant he drove up, it started to snow!

I was one hour waiting for the 2:53 (14:53) train but found a table and wrote some TR.

Upon return to St. Lazare, my a.m. buddies who visited the museum, just made the train as tout le monde called for taxies also. They loved the Caillebotes in the museum. Monet collected much art. Copies in the house and the rest donated in this and other museums.
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Old Apr 28th, 2016, 05:56 AM
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Took a cab home and rested and read emails about possible strike. Le Clement can accommodate me until Monday if I cannot get to Bordeaux. I sent an email to the TGV folks.

The folks at La Vachon were very nice, but the food was not as good as last night. I strolled along the street and liking this area with its many places to eat. A person should live here.

Bon soit, mes amies.
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Old Apr 28th, 2016, 06:08 AM
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TDudette:

I am enjoying your trip report and conversations. Feels like I am right there at your side! I imagine the gardens at Giverny provide an ever-changing show throughout the growing season. I was there in late summer and the gardens were lovely. Did you walk through Monet's house? I was blown away by his collection of Japanese woodblock prints. Had lunch at Les Nympheas, too.
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Old Apr 28th, 2016, 06:49 AM
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TDu, I am enjoying your report but it sounds like the food you are finding is mediocre!
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Old Apr 28th, 2016, 06:53 AM
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I wrote soit again. So far, I have lost my umbrella, kindle stylus, and forgot my razor.

Hi 2010 and thanks. Yes, I was in the house and feel the same way about ALL of the works he collected. Book about Giverny says he had over 300 of the wood blocks.

I am in my room in Bordeaux now. It is 2-4 steps up from Le Clement. Going to the symphony tonight and hope to get TR caught up after.

OH, my Visa chip card worked on the auto ticket machine! So many Yippees!
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Old Apr 28th, 2016, 07:14 AM
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Hi jubi, The time differences are placing messages after I have posted BUT before my post. Yes, food not spectacular but so far La Boussole was best. I did offer to adopt the owner if he would make cake all the time... I miss WFD!

StCirq, I just tried to call. No ans. Will try later. Hope you got home.
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Old Apr 28th, 2016, 08:14 AM
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TD; I can just feel your enthusiasm and joy!!

Great vacation and lovely to stay with a friend.
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Old Apr 28th, 2016, 08:26 AM
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Just found this, and am enjoying reading about your adventure!
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Old Apr 28th, 2016, 08:41 AM
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TD, glad for all the Yippees! I am enjoying this immensely and looking forward to more.
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Old Apr 28th, 2016, 08:56 AM
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Love your description of Giverny. I have yet to get there. One of these days. Enjoying following along.
Not snowing here, but rainy and very cool.
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Old Apr 28th, 2016, 08:58 AM
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TD, thanks for the description of Giverny [can't believe that I've never been there] and your continuing struggle to get a really good meal in Paris.

hope you get to Bordeaux ok.

St C - sounds like a great meal with the Fodors crowd.
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Old Apr 28th, 2016, 09:20 AM
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TD, great report. Glad the TGV obliged and got you to Bordeaux. We went to Giverny in June and the flowers were lovely. Unfortunately every school trip seem to have converged there on the same day. We were fortunate to be in Monet's home when the skies opened. Quick storm that was over by the time we got through inside.
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Old Apr 28th, 2016, 11:52 AM
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Sorry, TDude, was finally back home and surveying the garden to see what might have happened in our absence. Phone was inside. We'll meet you in Le Buisson at 10:17 tomorrow. No problem. Look for a haggard couple. We;re going to have an epic lunch.

What a long day! What a lot of logistics! What a lot of complicated French to deal with! What a success when we finally managed to skirt our way around the local train strikes and get our way home to Les Eyzies and pick up our ride

home with Jocélyne, who lectured us all the way home about hiring a friend of hers whom she claims is dishonest, and we shouldn't go there. I was so fried and tired, I finally just told her to zip it and save it until I had some energy for small-town rivalry stuff again.

Really nice to be back in the quiet countryside again, though how can you not love Paris?
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