rex

I already searched here - - no one was ever posted about it. But maybe you have seen it? Or researched it, and decided to... or not to... go there?

Advised by St Cirq that the Dordogne will be much more attractive than the Vezere for canoeing... and that the vicinty of St. Cyprien/Beynac would be the most appealing.

http://www.canoes-portdenveaux.com

The pictures look good, and the half-board rate(s) are surprisingly low.

Thanks in advance for any replies.

Best wishes,

Rex

rex

topping... hoping... maybe a re-post with a more generic title

"Canoes on the Dordogne"?

rex

ttt...

hopingtotravel

Rex, I don't have the answer to your questions, but did want to assure you that it's not nuts to spend 24 hours in the Dordogne.
There's obviously a lot more to see, but while spending 2 nights at La Roque-Gejeac leaving us only 1 day to drive around, see the Sarlat market, take a gabare ride, drive downriver, look at the view from Domme, etc., we covered a lot of ground.
I would have liked to have seen more, but as you say, some trips are just to find out where you would want to spend more time.
Good luck on your scouting vacation!

StCirq

Yes, I know the place. That's where we go canoeing on the Dordogne, in St-Vincent-de-Cosse. I've driven and walked by the chambres d'hôtes and auberge a dozen times or more, but never checked out the accommodations. I've eaten at the snack bar, and it's very minimalist cold drinks, a few microwaved food items.

It looks nice enough, and the price is good, but one note of caution: It's right ON the banks of the river, and the river does get high and even flood at times in spring and fall. And insects right at river's edge can be a pain. I'd definitely canoe there, but I'd seek higher ground for lodging.

Also, St-Vincent-de-Cosse isn't a village, just a narrow lane winding around with a few scattered residences and farms. With potentially only one night in the Dordogne (sigh), personally I'd want to be in at least a small village so I could people watch and check out the architecture. And there's no shortage of villages in that neck of the woods.

StCirq

I should add that right down the lane from the Porte d'Enveaux complex is a kind of nature theme park for kids, with rope walks and such, and there's a kind of summer camp atmosphere that pervades, between the canoe outfit and the kids' park.

If you want a truly spectacular combination campground/chambre d'hôtes/auberge, check out La Rivière right outside Les Ezies on the road to St-Cirq. It's a 4**** establishment, and back far enough from the river that floods and bugs wouldn't be a problem.

The owners, the Dalbavies, are incredibly nice and helpful. You could visit a cave in the morning, plus the artisan store in Les Eyzies, and easily hop over to St-Vincent-de-Cosse for an afternoon canoe ride, then check out Beynac. Then again, you could canoe right from La Rivière, but I've already explained about the advantages of canoeing on the Dordogne.

http://www.lariviereleseyzies.com/ch3.htm

rex

Alright.. still learning here... I guess I though before that you were encouraging me not to think of places to stay on the Vezere (because Les Eyzies does look attractive) - - but now I understand that those comments were really focused on the canoeing itself. I did like the looks of the place that contained that picture of the confluence... Terrasses something or other - - in Limeuil.

Are you favorable towards Limeuil? or no?

StCirq

Limeuil's a sweet hilltown, and the rivers' confluence and the elbow bridge (and the Restaurant Chai) are nice features. I don't know if I know Les Terrasses - I probably do but can't picture it in my mind's eye at the moment - but if it's right on the water you again might have water/dampness/insect issues. If it's up in the upper town, that's great. It's probably not.

Limeuil's medieval sewage system can also be a problem - smelly down by the river when it's hot. Everything flows down grooves in the cobblestones from the top of the hill right into the river - including sometimes things that aren't supposed to.

StuDudley

In Limeuil, it's interesting to see the muddy Vezere merg with the clear Dordogne river.

Warning about demi-pension (half board). Sometimes you get a different menu for 1/2 board than you get if you don't do 1/2 board. Naturally, the regular menu will be a little more interesting. Demi-pension people were drooling over the majestic presentation and creative menu we received at a simple place on the Lot River last year. If this is important to you, inquire when you reserve.

If this were my trip & I was only going to be there for 1 night and wanted to canoe, I would stay in Beynac or La Roque-Gageac.

I think I mentioned this on an earlier thread, but St Cirq's canoe rental place at St-Vincent-de-Cosse was closed for the season when we were there the third week of Sept in '03. There is an excellent canoe rental place next to the nature theme park for kids. that she mentioned.

Stu Dudley

rex

This is the third place that has written back to me, clarifying tha they do not offer demi-pension for one night stays. I can't exactly blame them. It was priced too low to be true.

I'll take a look at where Les Terrasses is located within Limeuil.

rex

Les Terrasses (de Beauregard) is on "Route de Trémolat" - - which I am thinking is the same as D31 - - so it could be anywhere, looking at the map of Limeuil on www.mappy.com and that includes right down on the river.

I guess I will have to write to them.

rex

Ah... I forgot that you can get quite a precise map locator image from www.logisdefrance.com

So, here's a screen capture direct from that...

http://www.geocities.com/rexbickers/LimeuilLocation.JPG

Looks safely "up the hill" to me - - prettyy much in the center of whatever village there is there.

I'll throw my hat in there.

toni

Dear Rex, I'd be ever so grateful for the trip report on your return as I am heading for San Sebastian, Dordogne and Paris in June/July. I plan to canoe as well. Cheers

StCirq

Yes, it's definitely up the hill. There's really only one street in Limeuil, going straight up the hill.

Do have a meal, or at least dessert, at Le Chai (old French word for wine store - has nothing to do with tea). Their assortment of ice creams and sorbets is amazing!

rex

<<There's really only one street in Limeuil>>

Only (possible) negative in this comment... are you saying that Limeuil is also not much of a vilage? The picture they show at the bottom of their own web page - - http://www.terrasses-beauregard.com - - looks like there is <i>something</i> of substance and charm there.

StCirq

There are a number of artisan shops, caf&eacute;s, and restaurants there, but no big commerce. The one street that runs up and down the hill is primarily residential. It's got plenty of charm, but at night will be a quiet place. I think there's one restaurant (name escapes me) that may also have a few rooms to let.

But in less than 10 minutes you can be in Le Bugue, which is a fairly bustling market town with all the commerce you might want, should you want it.