Anyone Interested in Another Italy Travel Journal?
Mar 19th, 2004 | 02:19 PM
#1
Original Poster
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 88
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Anyone Interested in Another Italy Travel Journal?
We are back from our two weeks in Italy. I kept a journal and didn't want to post what has been already been written, but our trip was less touristy. Do you think there is enough interest for me to post an abridged version of my "novelette"?
Mar 19th, 2004 | 02:30 PM
#3
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 3,657
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we ALWAYS enjoy hearing about different experiences...aside from never passing up a good restaurant recommendation! You could just start with a post replying here that gives a basic outline, and responding to questions you're likely to get in response (it will also keep the thread together and easy to follow.) Welcome home!
Mar 19th, 2004 | 05:16 PM
#6
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 262
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It seems that many posters here want to go places that are not touristy. They also want to dress in a manner that doesn't shout that they are tourists. So, IMO the Fodor public is lurking on the sidelines waiting for your report.
GO FOR IT !!!
GO FOR IT !!!
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Mar 20th, 2004 | 04:38 AM
#9
Original Poster
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 88
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Thanks for the encouragement and to all who gave me tips on this site before our trip.
The pheasants have finally returned to roost and the journal is in progress... might have to shorten it some for this posting as I can ramble.
Here is the first installment on Rome
Date 3-2?4
Our United flight left at 5:00 p.m.from Mpls. and we had two unexpected stopovers in both Chicago and Frankfort, Germany. E-tickets can have those quirks. We finally arrive in Rome at 3:30 p.m. on 3-3-04.
3-3-04
We found the train connection at the airport and bought our tickets to the Rome Termini at 12.50E each. It was a fast and easy trip into central Rome where we caught the Metro at 1E each. I was reminded of New York City?s subway and although it was crowded and dirty, the Metro was easy and fast.
We had found our Metro stop on our map but ended up turning the wrong way outside on the street level and walked a long way out of our way to find our hotel.This would be our first of many times getting lost. We had bought the Streetwise Map kit for Italy before our trip. They looked great but had some "scale" issues. The weather was very cool and windy.
The first night was spent at the Fellini B&B on Via Rasella. We were looking for the name on the building but after much searching up and down the street we noticed that the name was listed next to the buzzer by the door to what looked like a private residence.
There was no one answering although we had informed the owner of our flight schedule so the little lady across the street that was running the Luna Caprese pizzeria called us over, in Italian, to wait in her shop. She motioned that she would call the owner for us and we were able to slip off the backpack, use her WC and sit and wait. She was 4' something, had dark hair and retro glasses ?ala? Sophia Loren. She really wanted to talk to us and all I understood is that she wanted us to come in out of the cold weather. Wish I would have learned more Italian than just common phrases. She was a very sweet and talkative lady.
The ?suave? but late, Jean Pierre finally showed up on his Vespa and showed us up to our room. The tiny elevator barely held Glenn and the backpack and Jean Pierre and I went up next, in very intimate proximity. Would have preferred that G. was with me instead because although Jean Pierre was attractive, I knew what all those cigarettes could do to a gorgeous mouth!
The B&B took up part of a floor and had an elevated sitting and eating area, an outdoor terrace, rooms that were large, clean and beautifully decorated with a private bath across the hall. We dropped our gear and headed back out to explore Rome.
We walked miles that night and found the Trevi fountain, the President?s house, the Piazza Colanna, and the Spanish Steps. The night was chilly so there were few revelers out and about. We were approached by a young man with a bouquet of red roses on the Steps. He handed one to me and then proceeded to request some money. Although I tried to return the rose, he insisted I keep it and Glenn gave him some change, though not enough to please him. I later passed along the rose to an English speaking couple on the street.
It felt great to get back and take a hot shower and head back across the hall to our room to rest. I tried out the bidet in the morning and realized that it requires technique and some practice to avoid getting wet all over. Do you sit towards the faucet or away from it? I tried both ways on the trip and still don't have a clue.
Our room was 90E but because we had to wait to check in and to check out the next morning, we only paid 80E. I would stay there again. The terrace would be great in the nice weather and the lovely moldings and furnishings made you feel like you were in a classy villa.
Breakfast the next morning was yogurt, juice, bread, fruit, cereal and beverages. As we were not the first to arrive, the milk and yogurt were at room temperature so we had a much lighter breakfast than we normally would have eaten.
3-4-04
The catch 22 of staying at a different place each night is that you have to pack up each morning, find your next hotel or B&B and for us, that meant strapping on the backpack each morning. Next trip I would get a backpack that opens like a suitcase to access clothes easier. Luckily, I booked our next stop for two nights.
We stayed at the Panda Paradise on Via della Croce near the Spanish Steps. This was also upstairs and we were fortunate to be upgraded to a room with a private bath (#20) for the same amount of money, 68E per night. There was a very nice and helpful staff that spoke English and a comfortable room, although it would be noisy if the windows were kept open. Thankfully, the weather was cool enough to keep them closed. Ask for a room away from the street.
We took the Metro back to the Termini to grab the #110 hop on/hop off bus. The announcer spoke Italian fast and English poorly. She had the microphone down her throat! We did get an overview of Rome and got off the bus by the Via Veneto as we had a reservation at the Borghese Gallery at 5:00 p.m. The area around the gallery reminded us of Central Park with lots of people playing, strolling children, walking dogs and playing bocce ball. The gallery had both paintings and sculpture of which Bernini?s ?Apollo Chasing Daphne? was the most stunning. There were lots of students with private tour guides.
We found a small restaurant near the Via Veneto to have a quick bite and ended up next to a table of four Scotts in town for the rugby match on Saturday against Italy. They were on a long weekend holiday away from the wives and kids and were into some scooners of beer. We had a great conversation and some not very memorable food. Our dinner reservations were at 7:30 p.m. which we had discovered is the early seating in Italy. We went to a recommended restaurant from the Fodor?s posting called Girarrosto Toscano, where the waiter?s wear cream colored suit coats and black pants, the dusty wine bottles line the rooms near the ceiling, and the food is pricey. Glenn had spaghetti carbonnera and a mixed grill, I had bean soup. The bill with a bottle of Chianti was 44E and I had much better meals for less money later in the trip. Warning: Do not give the host or hostess your coat to check. I discovered my inner coat pocket had been opened and I had to cancel a debit card to be cautious. The staff at the Panda let us use their computer to e-mail home to contact family re: debit card.
Whew! Told you I was long winded. More to come....
The pheasants have finally returned to roost and the journal is in progress... might have to shorten it some for this posting as I can ramble.
Here is the first installment on Rome
Date 3-2?4
Our United flight left at 5:00 p.m.from Mpls. and we had two unexpected stopovers in both Chicago and Frankfort, Germany. E-tickets can have those quirks. We finally arrive in Rome at 3:30 p.m. on 3-3-04.
3-3-04
We found the train connection at the airport and bought our tickets to the Rome Termini at 12.50E each. It was a fast and easy trip into central Rome where we caught the Metro at 1E each. I was reminded of New York City?s subway and although it was crowded and dirty, the Metro was easy and fast.
We had found our Metro stop on our map but ended up turning the wrong way outside on the street level and walked a long way out of our way to find our hotel.This would be our first of many times getting lost. We had bought the Streetwise Map kit for Italy before our trip. They looked great but had some "scale" issues. The weather was very cool and windy.
The first night was spent at the Fellini B&B on Via Rasella. We were looking for the name on the building but after much searching up and down the street we noticed that the name was listed next to the buzzer by the door to what looked like a private residence.
There was no one answering although we had informed the owner of our flight schedule so the little lady across the street that was running the Luna Caprese pizzeria called us over, in Italian, to wait in her shop. She motioned that she would call the owner for us and we were able to slip off the backpack, use her WC and sit and wait. She was 4' something, had dark hair and retro glasses ?ala? Sophia Loren. She really wanted to talk to us and all I understood is that she wanted us to come in out of the cold weather. Wish I would have learned more Italian than just common phrases. She was a very sweet and talkative lady.
The ?suave? but late, Jean Pierre finally showed up on his Vespa and showed us up to our room. The tiny elevator barely held Glenn and the backpack and Jean Pierre and I went up next, in very intimate proximity. Would have preferred that G. was with me instead because although Jean Pierre was attractive, I knew what all those cigarettes could do to a gorgeous mouth!
The B&B took up part of a floor and had an elevated sitting and eating area, an outdoor terrace, rooms that were large, clean and beautifully decorated with a private bath across the hall. We dropped our gear and headed back out to explore Rome.
We walked miles that night and found the Trevi fountain, the President?s house, the Piazza Colanna, and the Spanish Steps. The night was chilly so there were few revelers out and about. We were approached by a young man with a bouquet of red roses on the Steps. He handed one to me and then proceeded to request some money. Although I tried to return the rose, he insisted I keep it and Glenn gave him some change, though not enough to please him. I later passed along the rose to an English speaking couple on the street.
It felt great to get back and take a hot shower and head back across the hall to our room to rest. I tried out the bidet in the morning and realized that it requires technique and some practice to avoid getting wet all over. Do you sit towards the faucet or away from it? I tried both ways on the trip and still don't have a clue.
Our room was 90E but because we had to wait to check in and to check out the next morning, we only paid 80E. I would stay there again. The terrace would be great in the nice weather and the lovely moldings and furnishings made you feel like you were in a classy villa.
Breakfast the next morning was yogurt, juice, bread, fruit, cereal and beverages. As we were not the first to arrive, the milk and yogurt were at room temperature so we had a much lighter breakfast than we normally would have eaten.
3-4-04
The catch 22 of staying at a different place each night is that you have to pack up each morning, find your next hotel or B&B and for us, that meant strapping on the backpack each morning. Next trip I would get a backpack that opens like a suitcase to access clothes easier. Luckily, I booked our next stop for two nights.
We stayed at the Panda Paradise on Via della Croce near the Spanish Steps. This was also upstairs and we were fortunate to be upgraded to a room with a private bath (#20) for the same amount of money, 68E per night. There was a very nice and helpful staff that spoke English and a comfortable room, although it would be noisy if the windows were kept open. Thankfully, the weather was cool enough to keep them closed. Ask for a room away from the street.
We took the Metro back to the Termini to grab the #110 hop on/hop off bus. The announcer spoke Italian fast and English poorly. She had the microphone down her throat! We did get an overview of Rome and got off the bus by the Via Veneto as we had a reservation at the Borghese Gallery at 5:00 p.m. The area around the gallery reminded us of Central Park with lots of people playing, strolling children, walking dogs and playing bocce ball. The gallery had both paintings and sculpture of which Bernini?s ?Apollo Chasing Daphne? was the most stunning. There were lots of students with private tour guides.
We found a small restaurant near the Via Veneto to have a quick bite and ended up next to a table of four Scotts in town for the rugby match on Saturday against Italy. They were on a long weekend holiday away from the wives and kids and were into some scooners of beer. We had a great conversation and some not very memorable food. Our dinner reservations were at 7:30 p.m. which we had discovered is the early seating in Italy. We went to a recommended restaurant from the Fodor?s posting called Girarrosto Toscano, where the waiter?s wear cream colored suit coats and black pants, the dusty wine bottles line the rooms near the ceiling, and the food is pricey. Glenn had spaghetti carbonnera and a mixed grill, I had bean soup. The bill with a bottle of Chianti was 44E and I had much better meals for less money later in the trip. Warning: Do not give the host or hostess your coat to check. I discovered my inner coat pocket had been opened and I had to cancel a debit card to be cautious. The staff at the Panda let us use their computer to e-mail home to contact family re: debit card.
Whew! Told you I was long winded. More to come....
Mar 20th, 2004 | 06:16 AM
#12
Original Poster
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 88
Likes: 0
Round two:
3-5-04 Glenn and I slept in until 11 a.m. and took the Metro to St. Peters where we discovered we missed the last entrance to the Sistine Chapel. Sacrilege! We didn?t get our jet lag until days later and I wish we would have had another day in Rome. We did hook up with an English speaking tour of the Basilica and really enjoyed the tour. The weather was wonderful and St. Peter?s Square was filled with nuns, couples, students singing around the fountains and people -watchers. We chose to walk back and ended up at P. Narvona which was home to a film crew around the large fountain and Scotsman playing bagpipes at the corner bar. There were lots of kids out with teachers on a field trip. There were hoards of vendors selling watercolor prints and trinkets.
We had tried to eat at Hostaria Romana on the Via del Boccacio but it was just closing at 3 p.m. so we found the little bar called Miscellanea. We had a rice salad with cheese, tomatoes, corn , a salad of ham, black olives, great greens and cheese, a hearty salami, fresh mozzarella and tomato sandwich and a couple of bellini cocktails. All for under 25E! It is the Zorbaz of Italy (a local pizza and Mexican place) with all the rustic tables, beer and college banners. We were the only Americans in the place and we wished we had learned more Italian as there were lots of conversations between the staff and some customers.
I made the trip to have a gelato at Giolitti?s and it was packed with kids. The Grand Marnier and Coffee gelato was great! G. is lactose intolerant and he had a lot of searching to find a yogurt cone.
We both have such shin splints with the miles of walking we have done in the last few days. It reminds us of our trip to NYC. We are seeing more of the city by staying in a different hotel each night but I could really use a massage.
We decided take the Metro and walk down to the Colosseum although it was closed we enjoyed the sunset over the ruins of the Roman Forum and talking to the wild cats. They look well fed. Was anyone else tempted to chip off a stone from the Colosseum to take home? I didn't but it crossed my mind...shame
We thought the Streetwise maps of Rome were not scaled to reality. We often went blocks out of our way as the blocks were much shorter than appeared on the map. A compass would be really helpful.
We noticed the main accessories in Italy were cell phones that took pictures and text messages, pointed high heeled shoes, a cigarette, some real fur coats, red dyed hair, lots of black spandex pants and access to either a wine bar (love them!) or a corner espresso spot. Vespas everywhere! ?Smart? cars look like toys! Other cars look run down, lived in and are parked everywhere, even sidewalks. There are rainbow colored ?pace? banners from the ?70?s hanging in windows, along with laundry. Do they wash by hand? Lots of ?flat iron buildings? as most street end in a piazza.
There are flat-topped pine trees next to palms and cactus plants, cyclamens and primroses blooming in window boxes and the cypress trees that are natures 100 year- old steeples.
On to Florence...
3-5-04 Glenn and I slept in until 11 a.m. and took the Metro to St. Peters where we discovered we missed the last entrance to the Sistine Chapel. Sacrilege! We didn?t get our jet lag until days later and I wish we would have had another day in Rome. We did hook up with an English speaking tour of the Basilica and really enjoyed the tour. The weather was wonderful and St. Peter?s Square was filled with nuns, couples, students singing around the fountains and people -watchers. We chose to walk back and ended up at P. Narvona which was home to a film crew around the large fountain and Scotsman playing bagpipes at the corner bar. There were lots of kids out with teachers on a field trip. There were hoards of vendors selling watercolor prints and trinkets.
We had tried to eat at Hostaria Romana on the Via del Boccacio but it was just closing at 3 p.m. so we found the little bar called Miscellanea. We had a rice salad with cheese, tomatoes, corn , a salad of ham, black olives, great greens and cheese, a hearty salami, fresh mozzarella and tomato sandwich and a couple of bellini cocktails. All for under 25E! It is the Zorbaz of Italy (a local pizza and Mexican place) with all the rustic tables, beer and college banners. We were the only Americans in the place and we wished we had learned more Italian as there were lots of conversations between the staff and some customers.
I made the trip to have a gelato at Giolitti?s and it was packed with kids. The Grand Marnier and Coffee gelato was great! G. is lactose intolerant and he had a lot of searching to find a yogurt cone.
We both have such shin splints with the miles of walking we have done in the last few days. It reminds us of our trip to NYC. We are seeing more of the city by staying in a different hotel each night but I could really use a massage.
We decided take the Metro and walk down to the Colosseum although it was closed we enjoyed the sunset over the ruins of the Roman Forum and talking to the wild cats. They look well fed. Was anyone else tempted to chip off a stone from the Colosseum to take home? I didn't but it crossed my mind...shame
We thought the Streetwise maps of Rome were not scaled to reality. We often went blocks out of our way as the blocks were much shorter than appeared on the map. A compass would be really helpful.
We noticed the main accessories in Italy were cell phones that took pictures and text messages, pointed high heeled shoes, a cigarette, some real fur coats, red dyed hair, lots of black spandex pants and access to either a wine bar (love them!) or a corner espresso spot. Vespas everywhere! ?Smart? cars look like toys! Other cars look run down, lived in and are parked everywhere, even sidewalks. There are rainbow colored ?pace? banners from the ?70?s hanging in windows, along with laundry. Do they wash by hand? Lots of ?flat iron buildings? as most street end in a piazza.
There are flat-topped pine trees next to palms and cactus plants, cyclamens and primroses blooming in window boxes and the cypress trees that are natures 100 year- old steeples.
On to Florence...
Mar 20th, 2004 | 06:25 AM
#13
Original Poster
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 88
Likes: 0
3-6-04
We took the train from Rome to Florence today in our private first class car. The snack man found us an empty car and sold us a couple of waters for the finder?s fee. The colors out the window are getting paler, less terra cotta and more peach and butter yellow houses, green fields, new and very old grape vines on every side hill, even next to the train tracks. (Yum- imagine how that wine tastes!) There are sheep in the fields, some chickens in pens near shacks, manure spread on the fields and some fruit trees in bloom. Curious, they prune trees off at the top so they look like bushes on top of a trunk. Train trip only took 1.5-2 hrs.
Our hotel was the Dali which was near the Duomo. The weather was wet, windy and cold. Glad to have our fleece jackets, umbrella and gloves. Wish we had knit hats too! The markets are open but covered in tarps. We had reservations at the Accademia (had great help from the man at the entrance) and David was memorable for his expression alone as well as his anatomy. I most enjoyed the paintings in the same room as his statue. I found that the gold gilted paintings were not my style and I should have written down the artist but didn?t.
It is dark and we are lost, again. We are looking for a place to eat. Tried to find Trattoria Garga (Fodor recommended) and when we finally do, it is closed until 7:30 p.m. The prices seem high so we wandered around until we found another from my list, Il Latini. It too opened at 7:30 so we wandered into a small store that sold everything from wine to beautiful produce (mixed greens from heaven in a brown paper lined wooden crate) and meats and cheeses. There were cute watermelon tab curtains in the window and I asked the owner if she made them. She explained herself in broken English. Then we went into a bookstore nearby and looked at trends in both fashion and decorating. The place is small and smells like sandlewood incense. The couple working there are young and ?hip?. The nearby wine bar is snobby but warm and we have a couple glasses of wine while we wait. We should have made reservations for the restaurant and we wait outside with the masses in the damp.
We were seated with a couple of lady friends, Linda and Irene and they really made our evening. Irene is an only child and is a librarian; she lives alone with 3 cats. Her friend, Linda works three jobs, has emotionally adopted a condo neighbor?s little dog.
The tables were communal and the waiters brought the courses without asking what you specifically wanted. The bottle of wine sat on the table, salted cured hams hung from the ceiling and there were lots of people and noise. There were plates of antipasti and large dishes of pasta with meat sauce. Glenn had beef and I had veal that was to die for! There was so much food! They even gave us a sparkling wine with the biscotti. Linda was big into eating and took home the rest of the biscotti in a doggie bag. Ha!
We found the hotel and the room is over the street. This would not be an issue, but the bar across the street, Robin?s Hood Tavern is offering 1 shot for every beer. It was very noisy until after 4 a.m. as Italy won the rugby match.
Need to get the rest of this from my notebook on paper...see you all later...
We took the train from Rome to Florence today in our private first class car. The snack man found us an empty car and sold us a couple of waters for the finder?s fee. The colors out the window are getting paler, less terra cotta and more peach and butter yellow houses, green fields, new and very old grape vines on every side hill, even next to the train tracks. (Yum- imagine how that wine tastes!) There are sheep in the fields, some chickens in pens near shacks, manure spread on the fields and some fruit trees in bloom. Curious, they prune trees off at the top so they look like bushes on top of a trunk. Train trip only took 1.5-2 hrs.
Our hotel was the Dali which was near the Duomo. The weather was wet, windy and cold. Glad to have our fleece jackets, umbrella and gloves. Wish we had knit hats too! The markets are open but covered in tarps. We had reservations at the Accademia (had great help from the man at the entrance) and David was memorable for his expression alone as well as his anatomy. I most enjoyed the paintings in the same room as his statue. I found that the gold gilted paintings were not my style and I should have written down the artist but didn?t.
It is dark and we are lost, again. We are looking for a place to eat. Tried to find Trattoria Garga (Fodor recommended) and when we finally do, it is closed until 7:30 p.m. The prices seem high so we wandered around until we found another from my list, Il Latini. It too opened at 7:30 so we wandered into a small store that sold everything from wine to beautiful produce (mixed greens from heaven in a brown paper lined wooden crate) and meats and cheeses. There were cute watermelon tab curtains in the window and I asked the owner if she made them. She explained herself in broken English. Then we went into a bookstore nearby and looked at trends in both fashion and decorating. The place is small and smells like sandlewood incense. The couple working there are young and ?hip?. The nearby wine bar is snobby but warm and we have a couple glasses of wine while we wait. We should have made reservations for the restaurant and we wait outside with the masses in the damp.
We were seated with a couple of lady friends, Linda and Irene and they really made our evening. Irene is an only child and is a librarian; she lives alone with 3 cats. Her friend, Linda works three jobs, has emotionally adopted a condo neighbor?s little dog.
The tables were communal and the waiters brought the courses without asking what you specifically wanted. The bottle of wine sat on the table, salted cured hams hung from the ceiling and there were lots of people and noise. There were plates of antipasti and large dishes of pasta with meat sauce. Glenn had beef and I had veal that was to die for! There was so much food! They even gave us a sparkling wine with the biscotti. Linda was big into eating and took home the rest of the biscotti in a doggie bag. Ha!
We found the hotel and the room is over the street. This would not be an issue, but the bar across the street, Robin?s Hood Tavern is offering 1 shot for every beer. It was very noisy until after 4 a.m. as Italy won the rugby match.
Need to get the rest of this from my notebook on paper...see you all later...
Mar 20th, 2004 | 07:31 AM
#14
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 7,322
Likes: 0
I love travel journals, so keep it coming! I do have one question though: Why do you stay in different lodging each night? All those little details that go along with relocating seem to make this an inefficient way to travel, but that's just my opinion.
Mar 20th, 2004 | 09:48 AM
#15
Original Poster
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 88
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Betsy- Good question- We thought it would get us out to areas of the cities that we would not normally see. Also, I wanted us to try B&B's, hotels and Pensiones (sp?) I didn't mind packing up and moving in the morning but would get a backpack that opens like a suitcase to avoid diving through clothes when you needed them.
More Florence...
3-7-04
The Hotel Johanna is on Via Bonifacio Lupi near the Swedish Consulate. A very posh B&B with a gated courtyard, private bath, large softly decorated room with tray ceiling and antique furniture. They had the breakfast tray in the room when we arrived and as we had only grabbed a quick cappuccino on a corner somewhere, we opted to eat. Once again, we are reminded that you could not be on the Atkins diet in Italy. More bread, cookies, jam, and tea. Good thing we are doing a lot of walking.
Speaking of weight, how do some larger build folks fit into the tiny showers in the pensiones? We are both trim but G. is 6?1 and does extensive work-outs and he found some of the showers to be cramped.
The hostess during the day is elderly and speaks little English but is very proper. There were a ton of keys to get in to all the doors between here and the street and she was very concerned about security. We didn?t understand her concern as the neighborhood was mainly quiet residences and the nearby building seemed to be offices for lawyers, doctors and other white collar occupations. There were lots of secretaries and suits hurrying to work with more briefcases as accessories. We saw a young woman take a parking ticket, yep ? we saw a parking ticket- and move it from her car to another and then drive off. I didn?t realize that anyone cared where or how these folks parked.
I love how there are fresh flower stalls everywhere and people bring home bouquet or plants on the bus or metro. We saw lots of fresh flowers in the corner shrines also. They do love beauty!
Today we had scheduled the Uffizi at 4:00 p.m. but ended up there early. The street mimes were out in force along with musicians. Classical guitar, tenors singing opera, violin soloists right next to those getting signatures to stop drugs or aids and demonstrations for peace. There was to be a peace rally on 3-20-04 and we saw graffiti against Bush and the war in all three large cities.
The best part for me of this gallery was the sketches of the Masters in the lower room. Leonardo, Michelangelo and Raphael were my favorites. There is such mathematical precision in Leonardo?s pen and inks compared to the others, don?t you think? Of course the Birth of Venus drew the biggest crowd.
There were hoards of Japanese that were very slow at moving from room to room. There are so many nationalities in these cities. It seems like a lot of Italians were traveling on vacation also. The younger generation we would see on the streets doesn?t even look like the stereotypic Italian. There were signs of Irish, American, and Scandinavian etc in the faces. The features of the people in Florence do seem more refined than in Rome. Small noses and narrower faces were what I noticed.
We met Jonathan from up state PA who was writing and sketching furiously in his journal. He was studying hotel management and had given a lecture in Cairo, Egypt and had spent the remainder of his trip crossing Europe to see more sights.
Loved the view from Uffizi of the Ponte Vecchio! Today is windy and we are swept along to a favorite restaurant of our trip. Trattoria Icche Ce Ce at Via Magalotti was about to close but we squeezed in for some chicken with lemon, potato gnocchi with four cheeses and steamed artichokes. Wonderful! I really hate the bread charge when you do not want to see, let alone eat bread and yet you want to sit down to rest your feet. Don?t miss this place!
More Florence...
3-7-04
The Hotel Johanna is on Via Bonifacio Lupi near the Swedish Consulate. A very posh B&B with a gated courtyard, private bath, large softly decorated room with tray ceiling and antique furniture. They had the breakfast tray in the room when we arrived and as we had only grabbed a quick cappuccino on a corner somewhere, we opted to eat. Once again, we are reminded that you could not be on the Atkins diet in Italy. More bread, cookies, jam, and tea. Good thing we are doing a lot of walking.
Speaking of weight, how do some larger build folks fit into the tiny showers in the pensiones? We are both trim but G. is 6?1 and does extensive work-outs and he found some of the showers to be cramped.
The hostess during the day is elderly and speaks little English but is very proper. There were a ton of keys to get in to all the doors between here and the street and she was very concerned about security. We didn?t understand her concern as the neighborhood was mainly quiet residences and the nearby building seemed to be offices for lawyers, doctors and other white collar occupations. There were lots of secretaries and suits hurrying to work with more briefcases as accessories. We saw a young woman take a parking ticket, yep ? we saw a parking ticket- and move it from her car to another and then drive off. I didn?t realize that anyone cared where or how these folks parked.
I love how there are fresh flower stalls everywhere and people bring home bouquet or plants on the bus or metro. We saw lots of fresh flowers in the corner shrines also. They do love beauty!
Today we had scheduled the Uffizi at 4:00 p.m. but ended up there early. The street mimes were out in force along with musicians. Classical guitar, tenors singing opera, violin soloists right next to those getting signatures to stop drugs or aids and demonstrations for peace. There was to be a peace rally on 3-20-04 and we saw graffiti against Bush and the war in all three large cities.
The best part for me of this gallery was the sketches of the Masters in the lower room. Leonardo, Michelangelo and Raphael were my favorites. There is such mathematical precision in Leonardo?s pen and inks compared to the others, don?t you think? Of course the Birth of Venus drew the biggest crowd.
There were hoards of Japanese that were very slow at moving from room to room. There are so many nationalities in these cities. It seems like a lot of Italians were traveling on vacation also. The younger generation we would see on the streets doesn?t even look like the stereotypic Italian. There were signs of Irish, American, and Scandinavian etc in the faces. The features of the people in Florence do seem more refined than in Rome. Small noses and narrower faces were what I noticed.
We met Jonathan from up state PA who was writing and sketching furiously in his journal. He was studying hotel management and had given a lecture in Cairo, Egypt and had spent the remainder of his trip crossing Europe to see more sights.
Loved the view from Uffizi of the Ponte Vecchio! Today is windy and we are swept along to a favorite restaurant of our trip. Trattoria Icche Ce Ce at Via Magalotti was about to close but we squeezed in for some chicken with lemon, potato gnocchi with four cheeses and steamed artichokes. Wonderful! I really hate the bread charge when you do not want to see, let alone eat bread and yet you want to sit down to rest your feet. Don?t miss this place!
Mar 20th, 2004 | 07:19 PM
#17
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 7,322
Likes: 0
Hey! We ate at Trattoria Icche Ce Ce (pronounced Ikky Chay Chay) too! Can't remember where we found the recommendation, but we loved the homey ambience and great, reasonably priced food. We walked by in the afternoon to make a reservation and had a very hard time finding the place because of the metal door that was rolled down over the facade while the restaurant was closed.
Mar 21st, 2004 | 07:03 AM
#18
Original Poster
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 88
Likes: 0
Well Cabo the location of the Dali was excellent but it was one of our only nights that we couldn't sleep due to the noise from across the street and the very uncomfortable bed. Maybe if we had gone to the pub across the street for the shot/beer special it would have impressed me more. I would really recommend the hotel in the upcoming post called Il Bargellino.. Read on...
3-8-04
This is a tribute to Ira and his recommendation of the B&B Peterson. It is at Via Guido Monaco and is off a very busy street in an office building. It is the least expensive place we stayed during our trip and had the most interesting accommodations.
The room was large enough with a platform bed that was seriously swayed in the middle. This looked like a concern until we decided to take the extra blanket from the armoire to put between the springs and the mattress. During this ordeal, we discovered a bag with pornographic magazines. Interesting! We left them where we found them but the blanket saved our backs from this bed. Be advised if you stay in Room #1.The room also had a sink which we found was common when the bathroom was down the hall.
We called the hostess, Chiara from the café down the street and she was there shortly to let us in so we could catch a bus to Siena. The Rapide bus left at 10:30 and cost 13E round-trip for the two of us. The day is sunny but windy and the Tuscan countryside is so glorious! Does anyone know what is growing up the dead tree trunks? Is it ivy, mistletoe or bittersweet? Can?t believe I actually saw a bay tree ? could be harvesting the leaves for tonight?s sauce!
The Siena campo was a warm spot that was not too crowded. It must be common for teachers to bring their children out on field trips. We stopped for some large slices of pizza at Il Cavallino Bianco that was cheap and filling. Just up off a side street we added some fruit, some juice and a small slice of panforte to our lunch.
It was so enjoyable to walk the streets without cars or vespas to inter with gawking. I can hardly imagine the horse races through these narrow streets. I bet it is thrilling. Most every building has rings mounted outside to tether your horse. I thought I read that before the race, the horses and riders even go into the churches to be blessed.
I would highly recommend going to the Enoteca Italia near the Fortezza. We enjoyed a couple of glasses of Brunello at 5.50E each that was beyond smooth. The brick/stone interior housed a wine bar filled with comical prints on the wall celebrating the Enoteca?s 70th anniversary. There was an outdoor terrace with lots of potted plants that would be a welcome retreat in the summer. While we were there, a class of wine students went into a large room to sample the wines of the region.
Near the Fortezza is a park that had an old fashioned carousel that parents were lifting their children up on to for a ride. The tinny music followed us through the park.
The exterior of the Siena Duomo is grand and the interior, although chilly today, is just as impressive. I loved the stars on the ceiling. G. took quite a few pictures of the exterior which is so ornate for this quiet little town.
Just a brief note about ATM?s. We must have tried a handful before any would accept any of our cards. We finally found the one in the bus information station below the street and the bus stop worked and it saved us from financial panic. It is only 5 days into our trip and we have gone through nearly $1,000E. We find that the hotel, restaurants and B&B?s really only want cash and will sometime give a discount. Make sure to ask as we saved some money this way.
We ended up on a slow bus back to Florence as we were getting cold and hungry and didn?t want to wait for a later bus. We had hoped to eat good pesto from the Consorzio Agrario near the McDonalds in Siena. It is supposed to be the best but as this is a grocery store/deli, there was no way to heat it and we are not of fan of hard uncooked noodles and cold pesto.
We did find a great little place back in Florence. It was close to Il Latini and was called the Trattoria Marioneon Via della Spada . We had a Tuscan stew, some ossobucco, a semi-expensive bottle of wine and dessert for under $30E for two. The best part of the meal was being seated next to an elderly man who was a local optician. His name was Mario Baracchi and he was a widow who came to this restaurant every night after work for his meal. He is native to Florence and said he was christened at the Baptistery. He spoke wonderful English and told us he works 7 days a week from 7-7p.m. He had all sorts of tips on Florence and some sweet memories of his wife Barbara of whom he was married for 30 years. She was Brittish so he had traveled to England numerous times and had we been planning a trip there in the near future, we would have had a great source of information. Stop in for a meal, the waiters all know him and he never even has to look at the menu, they just bring him what they know he would like to eat. He was so sweet.
Our B&B didn?t offer breakfast but the little coffee shop on the corner had very reasonable prices. The cappuccino is cheap and we discovered not very hot in Italy. That is probably because the people run in on their way to work, etc. and down it quick at the counter with a brioche. The whole elapsed time from the making of the coffee to the exit out the door and on to work seems like 2 minutes.
3-8-04
This is a tribute to Ira and his recommendation of the B&B Peterson. It is at Via Guido Monaco and is off a very busy street in an office building. It is the least expensive place we stayed during our trip and had the most interesting accommodations.
The room was large enough with a platform bed that was seriously swayed in the middle. This looked like a concern until we decided to take the extra blanket from the armoire to put between the springs and the mattress. During this ordeal, we discovered a bag with pornographic magazines. Interesting! We left them where we found them but the blanket saved our backs from this bed. Be advised if you stay in Room #1.The room also had a sink which we found was common when the bathroom was down the hall.
We called the hostess, Chiara from the café down the street and she was there shortly to let us in so we could catch a bus to Siena. The Rapide bus left at 10:30 and cost 13E round-trip for the two of us. The day is sunny but windy and the Tuscan countryside is so glorious! Does anyone know what is growing up the dead tree trunks? Is it ivy, mistletoe or bittersweet? Can?t believe I actually saw a bay tree ? could be harvesting the leaves for tonight?s sauce!
The Siena campo was a warm spot that was not too crowded. It must be common for teachers to bring their children out on field trips. We stopped for some large slices of pizza at Il Cavallino Bianco that was cheap and filling. Just up off a side street we added some fruit, some juice and a small slice of panforte to our lunch.
It was so enjoyable to walk the streets without cars or vespas to inter with gawking. I can hardly imagine the horse races through these narrow streets. I bet it is thrilling. Most every building has rings mounted outside to tether your horse. I thought I read that before the race, the horses and riders even go into the churches to be blessed.
I would highly recommend going to the Enoteca Italia near the Fortezza. We enjoyed a couple of glasses of Brunello at 5.50E each that was beyond smooth. The brick/stone interior housed a wine bar filled with comical prints on the wall celebrating the Enoteca?s 70th anniversary. There was an outdoor terrace with lots of potted plants that would be a welcome retreat in the summer. While we were there, a class of wine students went into a large room to sample the wines of the region.
Near the Fortezza is a park that had an old fashioned carousel that parents were lifting their children up on to for a ride. The tinny music followed us through the park.
The exterior of the Siena Duomo is grand and the interior, although chilly today, is just as impressive. I loved the stars on the ceiling. G. took quite a few pictures of the exterior which is so ornate for this quiet little town.
Just a brief note about ATM?s. We must have tried a handful before any would accept any of our cards. We finally found the one in the bus information station below the street and the bus stop worked and it saved us from financial panic. It is only 5 days into our trip and we have gone through nearly $1,000E. We find that the hotel, restaurants and B&B?s really only want cash and will sometime give a discount. Make sure to ask as we saved some money this way.
We ended up on a slow bus back to Florence as we were getting cold and hungry and didn?t want to wait for a later bus. We had hoped to eat good pesto from the Consorzio Agrario near the McDonalds in Siena. It is supposed to be the best but as this is a grocery store/deli, there was no way to heat it and we are not of fan of hard uncooked noodles and cold pesto.
We did find a great little place back in Florence. It was close to Il Latini and was called the Trattoria Marioneon Via della Spada . We had a Tuscan stew, some ossobucco, a semi-expensive bottle of wine and dessert for under $30E for two. The best part of the meal was being seated next to an elderly man who was a local optician. His name was Mario Baracchi and he was a widow who came to this restaurant every night after work for his meal. He is native to Florence and said he was christened at the Baptistery. He spoke wonderful English and told us he works 7 days a week from 7-7p.m. He had all sorts of tips on Florence and some sweet memories of his wife Barbara of whom he was married for 30 years. She was Brittish so he had traveled to England numerous times and had we been planning a trip there in the near future, we would have had a great source of information. Stop in for a meal, the waiters all know him and he never even has to look at the menu, they just bring him what they know he would like to eat. He was so sweet.
Our B&B didn?t offer breakfast but the little coffee shop on the corner had very reasonable prices. The cappuccino is cheap and we discovered not very hot in Italy. That is probably because the people run in on their way to work, etc. and down it quick at the counter with a brioche. The whole elapsed time from the making of the coffee to the exit out the door and on to work seems like 2 minutes.
Mar 21st, 2004 | 07:54 AM
#20
Original Poster
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 88
Likes: 0
Oh Ira- you naughty, naughty boy you!!!
We really did sleep quite well at Peterson's and it was a bargain. Did you discover that the sink also had a hot place under the side cover? Had we packed a camp kit, we could have cooked in our room. That's a tip- pack a camp kit for Peterson's You might get hungry after replacing the magazines.
3-9-04
Does anyone else hate to have to pay to pee? G. had prostate cancer surgery a year ago and at 46 does not want to entertain the idea of pills or pads so finding a WC was always a consideration. We found that most wine bars, all restaurants, and some museums had free and clean WC?s. It just seemed like we never had the right change when we found a WC that needed coin. Avoid the WC in the McDonald?s! I almost gagged.
And on another note, do you really think the common working Italian shops at these designer places? We found that the market day in Florence was 3-9-04 and in some of the stalls there were jeans, shirts etc. We really didn?t see many people walking around with Fendi bags and Versace clothing. The clothes were mostly polyester and rather cheap looking and I think most of the laundry on the lines looked well worn.
Today we stayed at our favorite hotel, Il Bargellino on Via Guelfa. It was in a great location, very quiet and the owners, Carmel and Joe we wonderful hosts.
Carmel speaks English with a Boston accent and Joe is Italian. His family has been in the hotel business all his life and when the opportunity to buy this place arose, he jumped on the chance.
The place is filled with marble, statues, art and antiques. The rooms are large with 12? ceilings and a sink and bar in the room. The bath is down the hall and is quite large. The best part is the terrace ! Today the sun is out, we have some local beer, olives, salami, cheese and bread along with a book to enjoy. Carmel has lots of plants in pots on the terrace, a couple of finches singing in their cage, the neighbor?s cat, Yoki, to rub against our legs and the lady next door is putting out her wash. We get a great picture without her knowing.
Speaking of wash, there is a great little place where we did a small dark load. It is on Via Nazionale not far from the hotel. There are phones to call home and a cheap internet hook-up. Across the street is the .85E store. (Hey, a dollar store! We are out of toothpaste, hand lotion and need a bottle of cold water!!)
We packed in one woman?s size backpack and that was it for clothes for the two weeks. So far, we have only needed one more long sleeved shirt and shouldn?t have packed light colored pants as we have had such wet spells that they show the wear more than our dark stuff. Bring dark clothes and silk undies if you go in March. Best purchase I made! Other than needing a knit hat or cap, I would pack less undies and socks. Most places have heated towel racks and the hand wash dries overnight.
We spent a wonderful morning on the terrace followed by a brief nap. Then it was off to wander. We had considered shipping some wine home and stopped at a place to check prices. The merchant inside was an investment/merger banker during the week and was very passionate about local wines. We found it was 120E just to ship home a case not including the price of the wines. Guess that is not in the budget but I got some tips on what to try while we are still here. We are red wine fans and so most of what he is selling appeals to us.
While we wander, we stop in to the Gran Caffe San Marco where I buy an olive shaped marzipan ( we take a picture of it before eating it- the craftsmanship was unbelievable!) and some Milano style cookies- Yum!
Found a great local restaurant that night where the only waiter that spoke any English had on a kick boxing T-shirt. I asked if he was a boxer and he said he did Tae Bo. We had a mixed salad, pasta with pesto, bow-tie pasta with ricotta cheese and tomatoes, beef in a wine sauce and water for $25E. It was called Osteria Vineria on Via Nazionale. I would recommend you know Italian menu items as we guessed and guessed well. We found a great place to have gelato near the torture museum and the Tiramisu was heavenly.
We really did sleep quite well at Peterson's and it was a bargain. Did you discover that the sink also had a hot place under the side cover? Had we packed a camp kit, we could have cooked in our room. That's a tip- pack a camp kit for Peterson's You might get hungry after replacing the magazines.
3-9-04
Does anyone else hate to have to pay to pee? G. had prostate cancer surgery a year ago and at 46 does not want to entertain the idea of pills or pads so finding a WC was always a consideration. We found that most wine bars, all restaurants, and some museums had free and clean WC?s. It just seemed like we never had the right change when we found a WC that needed coin. Avoid the WC in the McDonald?s! I almost gagged.
And on another note, do you really think the common working Italian shops at these designer places? We found that the market day in Florence was 3-9-04 and in some of the stalls there were jeans, shirts etc. We really didn?t see many people walking around with Fendi bags and Versace clothing. The clothes were mostly polyester and rather cheap looking and I think most of the laundry on the lines looked well worn.
Today we stayed at our favorite hotel, Il Bargellino on Via Guelfa. It was in a great location, very quiet and the owners, Carmel and Joe we wonderful hosts.
Carmel speaks English with a Boston accent and Joe is Italian. His family has been in the hotel business all his life and when the opportunity to buy this place arose, he jumped on the chance.
The place is filled with marble, statues, art and antiques. The rooms are large with 12? ceilings and a sink and bar in the room. The bath is down the hall and is quite large. The best part is the terrace ! Today the sun is out, we have some local beer, olives, salami, cheese and bread along with a book to enjoy. Carmel has lots of plants in pots on the terrace, a couple of finches singing in their cage, the neighbor?s cat, Yoki, to rub against our legs and the lady next door is putting out her wash. We get a great picture without her knowing.
Speaking of wash, there is a great little place where we did a small dark load. It is on Via Nazionale not far from the hotel. There are phones to call home and a cheap internet hook-up. Across the street is the .85E store. (Hey, a dollar store! We are out of toothpaste, hand lotion and need a bottle of cold water!!)
We packed in one woman?s size backpack and that was it for clothes for the two weeks. So far, we have only needed one more long sleeved shirt and shouldn?t have packed light colored pants as we have had such wet spells that they show the wear more than our dark stuff. Bring dark clothes and silk undies if you go in March. Best purchase I made! Other than needing a knit hat or cap, I would pack less undies and socks. Most places have heated towel racks and the hand wash dries overnight.
We spent a wonderful morning on the terrace followed by a brief nap. Then it was off to wander. We had considered shipping some wine home and stopped at a place to check prices. The merchant inside was an investment/merger banker during the week and was very passionate about local wines. We found it was 120E just to ship home a case not including the price of the wines. Guess that is not in the budget but I got some tips on what to try while we are still here. We are red wine fans and so most of what he is selling appeals to us.
While we wander, we stop in to the Gran Caffe San Marco where I buy an olive shaped marzipan ( we take a picture of it before eating it- the craftsmanship was unbelievable!) and some Milano style cookies- Yum!
Found a great local restaurant that night where the only waiter that spoke any English had on a kick boxing T-shirt. I asked if he was a boxer and he said he did Tae Bo. We had a mixed salad, pasta with pesto, bow-tie pasta with ricotta cheese and tomatoes, beef in a wine sauce and water for $25E. It was called Osteria Vineria on Via Nazionale. I would recommend you know Italian menu items as we guessed and guessed well. We found a great place to have gelato near the torture museum and the Tiramisu was heavenly.
