And now I have mis-spelled "Frankfurt".
Just not my week!

Welch--Just came back from Spain and used Renfe to Seville (Cordoba was stop on the way), so I can help you with some air-to-train timing, but not with itinerary since one's travel inclinations are always unique. But I do have to say, given the recent rain, all of Andalucia was LUSH.

We were warned that our plane to Spain from US may not be on time, that taxi drivers would rip us off, etc. Well, actually, our plane from PHL was exactly on time, and our taxi driver was perfect--we were into the Madrid Renfe in 20 minutes on a Saturday morning. (And our next taxi driver when we came back to Madrid was equally wonderful) However, what I NEVER read anywhere is that the walking from the plane to the actual terminal would be endless. We are really fit people who tend to run through airports, and it was still about a 15-minute walk to get to the customs area off the plane. Customs line was really fast, but there was still a walk to baggage. We don't check luggage, so we made a beeline for taxi ranks. Walking to the front of the line was our only hassle, not waiting in line. This airport--ALL TERMINALS--requires a lot of walking power.

In fact, I found myself laughing. Philadelphia is my personal pet peeve--I hate EVERYTHING in that airport, but my personal wish for "May you all go to hell" is reserved for the little mini-car drivers within the airport who think their electric carts have priority over all pedestrians. Run over a kid? No problem--after all, they did honk the horn. Well, in Madrid, they actually NEED those services.

I digress. Again, taxi driver from Madrid airport zipped us in in 20 minutes (allow 1/2 hr on a Sat and you'll be fine), and then I was worried about navigating the station. Entered on street level/top floor of station. Go down one floor and enter security line (the flora/fauna is one floor below that). Time to navigate: took us less 10 minutes--maybe even less than 5. We had ordered Preferente level and got to wait in 1st Class lounge. Just turn right after you exit Security line and then walk to around Gate 14 and it should be on your right.

Don't get a Rail Pass. Waste of cash. The Renfe website is quirky, but if you expect it to be quirky, you will be OK. Just search under my name, and you'll get some tips on how to navigate. Good luck!

Thanks so much for this info AlessandraZoe! I'm generally a fast, fast walker but have a bad knee to deal with right now, so we'll see.
With a 3 PM arrival into MAD on a Wednesday would 2 1/2 hours seem a reasonable time to allow for the train connection, departing Madrid at 5:30PM?
The only reason we would use the pass is that I get a very good discount.
I'm thrilled to hear it's looking green. I guess this years rain has had benefits.

I just don't know if 2.5 is enough! Here's why: Both our drives into town from the airport were on Saturdays mid-day so my knowledge of Madrid midweek late-day traffic hours is about zip. Both our drives were under 1/2 hr.

Even with on-time planes though (both into Madrid were), we just could not get to the taxi ranks in under 20 minutes to one-half hour. And again, that's with our "do the hustle" walk/run with "no-problem" customs with not having to wait for baggage.

Here's the bad knee news: we had two flights of stairs to do when we exited the first plane to get to terminal: one two-fer up and one two-fer down. Maybe if you come into a different gate you'll be fine with the knee, but again, we do get around a few airports, are pretty hale and hearty folk, and we STILL found the circumstances a tad strange. 10 or so minute into our walk from the plane, my daughter turned to me and said, "I'm expecting we'll be required to complete hurdles around the next corner".

The airport is pretty, though!

Great article about flamenco/sevillanas in La Andaluza! You might stumble upon such things in many places around town at late hours. It could be totally spontaneous, but often the bar will hire someone to play and then anything might happen. To my knowledge, the La Andaluza chain (three bars in Sevilla) are not among the most renown places for neither sevillanas nor flamenco, but - as shown here - with the right people at the right time "expert" advice is of no use.

Having said that, I would strongly recommend a visit to Casa de la Memoria. This month, two of the greatest flamenco dancers in the world today, Pastora Galván and Rafael Campallo, perform here. No 30+€ cover charge nor 40€ dinner, some of the best artists find much inspiration in occasionally being in this kind of intimate and "touristy" places (you would find many Spaniards here as well) to experiment and get an up-front feeling different from that in the big theatres. Galván just returned from a great tour of New York (City Center), Washington (Lisner auditorium), Boston (Opera House), Florida (Adrienne Arsht Center) and London (Sadler's Wells). The programme for your days in Sevilla will eventually be listed here: http://www.casadelamemoria.es/eventos.htm

For the rather up-beat and jolly sevillanas - as opposed to the generally more austere and deeply felt flamenco - El Rejoneo (C/Betis, 31) and the very popular Casa Anselma (C/Pages del Corro, 49) in the Triana district are sure bets from around midnight. Samara Amador, the flamenco singer daughter of the living legend dancer Rafaela Carrasco, often sings at El Rejoneo:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gRyOoBPuz4g

But if you want to be sure of experiencing hard-core flamenco, I recommend wee hours at El Mantoncillo in C/ Alfarería, 104 (also in Triana). Here you might end up with some of the best flamencos in the city, many of whom would rarely or never perform in public.

Finally, Elisabeth Eaves' article starts out with mentioning the Hospital de la Caridad. If you are into chilling paintings and Sevilla golden-age history, go and see this. The 17th century repenting founder Miguel Mañara was - according to himself - "the most evil man that ever lived". All the paintings he commisioned from some of the most famous golden-age arists for the hospital and it's adjoining church dealt with the theme of death and redemption. The hospital, the church, the paintings and Mañara's grave are all in Calle Temprado, 3.
http://www.lonelyplanet.com/spain/seville/sights/411842

Yes interesting article. You should know though that Sevillanas, the typical folk dance of Sevilla, (but danced in many areas of Spain) is not a true flamenco dance. It is a regional dance.

Sevillanas is fun and danced by all ages, but all that easy. It is sometimes interpreted in a very flamenco style, but there are so many versions. In fact Carlos Saura did an entire musical documentary on it. You should all learn it so that if it should happen spontaneously (or not spontaneously) you could participate. Especially those going to Sevilla during Feria.

As youwill see one does not have to be a professional dancer.....Ole!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6oPYQ...eature=related

and more typical with dear Rocio Jurado.. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IDQYzKN1VUk&NR=1

Thanks so much for the link to the paintings. It seems like a "must do".
I have a dear friend, an artist, who would likely travel to Seville just for this kind of exhibit.
I am having second thoughts about Marbella. After much reading I realize the town is not my style.
That said, would it be worth the effort to use as a base for exploring the Pueblos Blancos and coast given the cushy hotel (Ritz Villapadierna) and baths (those are definitely up my alley)?

I think you should stay with your hotel in Marbella, sounds like a fabolous deal. Fine base and perhaps the city also holds some surprises? This looks like a superb beach seafood restaurant: http://11870.com/pro/chiringuito-los-3-pepe/media. El Estrecho is supposedly one of the most popular tapas bars among locals, tucked away in a very narrow street in the Old town: http://11870.com/pro/el-estrecho/media

Marbella is ok, steer clear of from some of the adjoining tourist towns Fuengirola (yuk) and even Belamadena.

When exactly did you say your trip was? When will you be in Marbella?

We will be in Marbella April 23-26 (give or take a day).
I think the season is still low enough not to worry too much about traffic.
The restaurant/tapas bar links are great. Thank you!

I had a great paella in Marbella in one of the many beachfront places. The advertise paella for two, but fyi with a tapa and a drink it is really enough for 4!

Well lucky you, Flamenco star Eva Yerbabuena is there exactly at that time at the Teatro Municipal......
with her show LLuvia
Her site
http://www.evayerbabuena.com/agenda.php?mmaa=042010

and clips from You Tube
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7o26Mhy7yqg

more
http://www.flamenco-world.com/artist...erbabuena2.htm

Looks as if Marbella did hold a great surpise! Think you should ask the hotel to reserve tickets as soon as possible, they will sell out both days.

Reviews of Yerbabuena's "Lluvia" from The Guardian two months ago: http://www.guardian.co.uk/stage/2010...babuena-review



http://www.flamenco-world.com/magazi...8022009ing.htm

On Monday the 19th of April, Adela Campallo dances at Casa de la Memoria in Sevilla. Great talent, just returned to the stages last year after a serious car accident five years ago:
http://www.flamenco-world.com/artist...lo23112009.htm

Thanks for all the wonderful dance links!
I am getting a little nervous about the walking involved in the cities. Although in my 50's, I have a problematic knee which is in line for silicone but not before the trip.
How difficult would it be to take things a little "easy" in Seville, Cordoba and Granada?

anyone with even a slightly bad knee should ask for a wheelchair in madrid airports. The distances can be huge, especially T4.

I think we have managed to rework our flights so that we can get all the way to Seville via FRA and LIS using TAP and miles.
It will cost a $150.00 change fee but we don't have to take the taxi/train in Madrid and it's far less hassle.

take a carriage ride when you arrive in sevilla. fixed price and fun.

in my opinion i wouldnt stay more than 3 nights in seville.
check out Los Gallos for flamenco.