francebound

I, (Francebound but really Italybound) appreciate all the feedback from the Fodor forum folks, and it has helped me organize my scattered thoughts into a plan. Care to critique the 30th anniversary itinerary so far?

No flights booked yet, so I've switched it up - we're now flying into Florence and home from Venice. Staying for a couple of nights in Florence (Tourist House Ghiberti), then on to Tuscany and 6 nights near Siena (Agriturismo Marciano). Relax, go for drives and enjoy the countryside, walks, etc.

That's the start, and we're finishing off in Venice (Rosa di Venezia) for 4 nights before going home.

That leaves 7 days to think about. Cinque Terre seems to be getting mixed reviews to say the least, and Santa Margherita Ligure sounds better. Has anyone stayed here: http://www.nuovariviera.com/ing/index.html
How about Villa Rosa in Camogli: http://www.bed-and-breakfast-in-ital...30&IDRegione=8

What about a couple of nights in Lucca and then on to SML for 5 nights? Or split the time between SML and Lago di Garda? Where to stay in Lago di Garda? We like b&b's or small hotels.

I promise to do a trip report and "give back" by sharing my impressions of the accommodations & etc. So pile on the suggestions - I'm all ears!

Dayle

Hi francebound,

I forget when your trip is happening....

We stayed in SML for 3 nts at Hotel Laurin***, but that was in 2000. We liked the hotel, loved the town. From there, we did a day trip by train to Riomaggiore and hiked back as far as Vernazza before pooping out. Had a memorable lunch in Corniglia in the little piazza. Also 2 very nice dinners in SML. Would would have loved to stay an extra night, but our next hotel wouldn't allow a cancellation with just 24 hours notice....We also spent an afternoon wandering around town, and a 1/2 day early morning by boat to Portofino where we enjoyed a very long lunch next to the tiny harbor, with lots of vino, of course.

I think 5 days would allow you to also visit Camogli, or perhaps Carrara (marble quarries) enroute, if you are interested. We would have enjoyed at stop and tour there....

If you are going during summer, the lakes would be more appealing IMHO.

Dayle

PS- our trip was mid-May. Hiking trail was busy, but not too bad. Vernazza was very crowded. Again, this was 10 years ago. I can't believe it.

francebound

Hi Dayle - We're Italy bound May 2011. Wish us luck with the weather; our friends who just got back had rain 10 out of the 13 days. They still had fun though!

trunchbulldiaries

By far one of the most spectacular hotel experiences I've had to date is at the Hotel Continental in Santa Margherita. Beautiful hotel in a wonderful natural location in a fantastic town. A little pricey, but definitely worth it. Check out their website.
Have a great time!

zeppole

Both the Nuova Riviera in Santa Margherita Ligure and the Villa Rosa in Camogli involve considerable uphill walks from the sea, restaurants and the train station. The walk in Camogli is charming, but it is a climb. (I've never walked to the Nuova Riviera in Santa Margherita Ligure, but it is not "in town.".)

I live in the area so I don't stay in hotels around here. But if you want to stay in the B&B category, check out La Luna sui Tetti in Santa Margherita Ligure and read reviews on Tripadvisor. (It is better located.)

If you would enjoy a real hideaway in Camogli, check out La Rosabianca di Portofino. It is in a village high above Camogli, but there are two very good restaurants within a short walking distance, plus two charming bars, a good bakery with prepared foods, and a food store. La Rosabianca has kitchen facilities. It has beautiful cliff views. To get to the beach, you will need to walk down stairs -- lots and lots of stairs -- or take a bus, and either walk up those same hundreds of stairs or take a bus back up (they stop at 8pm.) There are taxis, but they cost about 20e (given the price of the room, it evens out.) It's not for everybody, but if you like to hike, want tranquility and a very special experience of village life on the Riviera, it's fun.

Otherwise, in Camogli itself, La Camogliese isn't much more expensive than a b&b, and it is right in town, at sea level. You can read recent reviews on Tripadvisor.

zeppole

It occurs to me to add that Sestri Levante on the Riviera is more enjoyable in my view than Santa Margherita Ligure and certainly more affordable. It has better food, too, if that matters to you. It is well situated on the train line so you can see everything on the coast north and south of it easily, and you can even take fun bus rides into the hills to see Ligurian life away from beach (I'd target Varese Ligure, an hour away.) Check out the Albergo Marina for affordability and charm in Sestri Levante, read the Tripadvisor reviews for it.

You mentioned that you might split the time with Lago di Garda. The best spots on Lago di Garda are not easily reached from its southern shore, which is the only part of the lake with train stations. What you might consider instead -- especially if you stay in Sestri Levante -- is to spend two nights in Parma. You could include a visit to historic Modena while there, or a short bus ride would take you out to the exceptionally pretty castle of Torrechiara. Parma itself is beautiful small town with truly beautiful architecture, and great food and shopping.

If you prefer a lake visit after your time on the Riviera, you might do better to take the dogleg by train from Milan to Stresa for a night or two, so you can visit the islands and take the cable car up into the mountains. It's an hour's train ride north of Milan.

zeppole

Excuse me for not being clear: The town of Stresa is on Lago Maggiore, just north of Milan.

francebound

Zeppole,
I really appreciate your suggestions. Thank you so much!

francebound

Zeppole,
One other question. We will be coming from the Siena area and will have a rental car. Would you suggest we drop off the car before arriving in the Riviera, and continue our travels by train? Is it in fact easier to not have to worry about finding parking etc.?

zeppole

Parking is usually pretty tight -- and expensive -- all along the Riviera, especially if your stay includes a weekend. However, if you choose someplace like La Rosabianca di Portofino above Camogli, you might want to keep your car, and there are places to park it. If you pick a less famous seaside town than Santa Margherita Ligure or Sestri Levante -- like Bonassola or Zoagli, both extremely charming -- your hotel can usually help find you a parking space.

Although you might find it more fun and practical to get around by boat and train if you are headed to Portofino, Camogli or le Cinque Terre, having a car also enables you more easily go inland if you like the idea of seeing more of Liguria than the holiday coast.

With a car, you could also consider towns without train stations but with ferries to le Cinque Terre, and hiking opportunities even more enjoyable than le Cinque Terre. Both Lerici and the very tiny and charming town of Tellaro are easier if you have car. Lerici has a fair amount of parking. Tellaro you have to work with your hotel to find it, and it may be pricey.

To me, the real issue would be where you want to go after you leave the Riviera. If you are simply headed to Venice, might be more fun to just be rid of it earlier. If you are splitting your time with another destination, a car might enable you see more.

francebound

Have spoken directly to Laura at Rosabianca and booked for 4 nights @ 60 euros p/p per night, including what sounds like a big breakfast. We are coming in on the 2nd Sunday in May, which I believe is the day of the special festival in Camogli, so that might be fun to go to if we can get there in time.

Laura says in her email: We have available a mini apartment with private bathroom and a real goodview (you can see our golfo ligure).You can only arrive here by a nature trail (10 minutes, it isn't hard).

That should be interesting; good thing we pack light!

Also chose Parma as our next destination, and hope to get in to Agriturismo Leoni. Parma sounds great, and as I am a big fan of good food I am excited about the gastronomic opportunities.

What would I do without these suggestions! My husband thinks I am a little crazy to book all this ahead of time, but I think it's fun to plan.

zeppole

That's great! The Sagre delle Pesche is THE big to-do in Camogli for the whole year, so you may catch some fireworks.

Given that you are staying at La Rosabianca and headed next to Parma, I suggest you keep your car.

Also if you are driving from Siena to Camogli, I recommend that you get off the autostrada in Rapallo, not Recco. If you get off at Recco, you will need to drive somewhat through Camogli to get up to the road that takes you to San Rocco and La Rosabianca. If you get off at Rapallo, you reach the road to La Rosabianca before you hit Camogli traffic. Before you come next year, communicate again with the b&b again about the best route to take, especially if the feste is that weekend and be sure to get clear directions about parking and parking rules.

Since you will be there for 4 nights, and since your mini-apartment means you can do some picnics, I highly recommend that you invest in a copy of David Downie's "Food and Wine for the Italian Riviera and Genoa." It has very detailed descriptions of the restaurants, bars, bakeries and highy-regarded food stores right where you are staying, plus other ones you can walk to down the road or down the cliff to the sea-- and anyplace else you visit in those 4 days. It is filled with beautiful pictures.

(One place Downie doesn't mention in his guidebook is the restaurant Da Marin, which is just fine for an antipasto and plate of pasta, and only a few minutes walk from your b&b.)

I've never been to Agriturismo Leoni, but it does get wonderful reviews. If you are driving around Parma, the castle of Torrechiara is a lovely place, and of course Parma itself is stunning.

Have a great trip.

zeppole

PS: If you are arriving on the weekend of the Sagra delle Pesche, you MUST reserve to eat at the restaurants nearest your b&b. They are La Cucina di Nonna Nina -- a highly regarded destination restaurant for the region -- or Da Mirin, a simpler place with fine pasta and seafoods.

You can find their telephone numbers on the web. You should make those reservations by the end of March for sure. If you have difficulty, ask the b&b to call for you.

If you think you want to be right in Camogli for the evening, it will be mobbed and again you will need to make a reservation at a restaurant well in advance. Ask the b&b if any shuttle buses will be running until midnight. Otherwise, you'll face a baptism of fire walking up the stairs from Camogli to San Rocco. The staircase is well lit, it is only 30 minutes straight up, and you are unlikely to see a wild boar in spring. Actually, you'll probably have plenty of human company on the staircase that night, but you will break a sweat on that climb.

zeppole

Just thought I better reassure you that if you don't like crowds, your b&b tucked in its tiny village will be an oasis of tranquility, even during the Sagre delle Pesche. Up to you if you want to head down to the feste in town. The village bakery near you is likely to open on Sunday until 7:30pm (check with the b&b) and it sells wine, vegetable tarts, sliced meats as well as other treats. You can stay home if you like!

ekc

Having just returned from our Northern Italian trip, I second the Parma recommendation! We spent 3 nights there is a lovely hotel next to the Duomo and loved it. We spent a few lovely days driving around the area and the food was great!

zeppole

ekc,

I'll be in Parma at the end of the month, just to eat and shop for eats. I'll be using Plotkin, but any other reccomendations from you? Also, did you spend any time pursuing violets there? Or visit the theaters?

francebound

ekc,
I'm excited about Parma idea. I've looked at so many hotel, b&b, & agriturismo properties I can't remember if there was one near the Duomo that caught my eye. What was the name of the place you stayed? I don't suppose you've done a trip report?