WeisserTee

Scootoir, enjoying your trip report, and am happy that you took a little time to explore Basel. So many people who take these cruises arrive in Basel the day they board the ship and spend no time in the handsome, wonderfully livable city I'm proud to call home.

I may have even walked past you, as we went to the Christmas market stalls on Munsterplatz at the same time people were lined up for the concert!

How lucky you were to catch Diane Bish performing. I'm not a huge fan but my Mom is and she watches all her shows that are filmed in Europe.

By the way, it is still wayyy too warm for December. Sorry your bed was not comfortable -- that's a major fail on a cruise ship and it seems so many other things went well.

Looking forward to the next installment!

Scootoir

Friday December 4

After breakfast we boarded a little train for the trip into Rudesheim. We had planned to take the gondola over the vineyards to the reunification monument but with the rain and a mechanical delay on the gondolas we decided on Siegfried’s Music Cabinet Museum. It was interesting to see the different instruments most of which were 100 years old. One even played violins mechanically.

After the visit we walked the shopping street and found an uncrowded Kathe Wolhfahrt shop and took advantage. I found a glass ornament of a suitcase covered with stickers naming different German cities. This will go well with my London and Paris suitcase ornaments. Bunny and I both bought a hand painted wooden ornament marked Rudesheim 2015. This town had a very nice little Christmas market with handmade items along with the usual foodstuffs and gluhwein. Our tour mates from San Diego collected the gluhwein mugs. They must have brought larger suitcases than we did.

Then it was time to board the little train and return to the boat for lunch. The boat set sail and after lunch reached a stretch of the Rhine filed with castles. We piled on our coats to go on the upper deck to watch the scenery. It was brisk and beautiful. During this time the crew passed out blankets and then “Rudesheimer Coffee” with sugar, flamed brandy, coffee and whipped cream. I didn’t care for it much, chocolate might have helped.

We docked in Koblenz around 4pm and could go out to explore the town. I decided to stay in to read and journal but Bunny decided to venture out to the Christmas market. She bought a couple of ornaments unlike any we had seen but got lost! The concierge on a Viking boat steered her in the right direction.

Tonight we had John Dory for dinner, a fish I had not had before. It was pretty good but mine had bones which put me off from finishing it. That’s OK, we’ve had too much to eat on this trip. Tomorrow we visit Cologne.

Scootoir

Saturday December 5

After breakfast this morning I sat in the lounge reading and watching the scenery. We sailed between the remaining towers of the bridge at Remagen which the Germans failed to destroy at the end of World War II. The advancing U.S. Army captured and was able to utilize it to move men and materiel over the Rhine until it famously collapsed due to overuse 10 days later.

At 10:30 “Frühschoppen” was served in the lounge. This included pretzels, sausages and beer. I had a thick pretzel spread with cream cheese (yummy) but skipped the morning beer. Lunch was served at noon (there is a lot of eating on this cruise) before our afternoon tour of Cologne.

Our guide Markus met us at the boat and led us into Cologne. He was a good guide and very tall so we could spot him among the crowds—and it was really crowded on this Saturday. We walked along the riverbank then turned into the town to walk through some squares and to the city hall where a number of weddings were taking place. We had a break of about 30 minutes until our cathedral tour time. Bunny and I walked to the Café Reichard where I had the only decent cup of tea I have had in Germany, including on the AmaCerto. The restroom was a bit of an adventure with doors to the stalls that go from clear to “fogged” when locked. Mr. Wonderful and I stayed in a Belgian hotel a few years ago that had an opaque glass door to the bathroom, perhaps this is a European trend that should not spread.

We toured the cathedral and I was able to take lots of photos. There was a particularly attractive advent wreath in the cathedral. We had walked through part of the Christmas market and admired some wooden ducks that we both wanted on our patios but didn’t want to carry home. So after the tour we decided to return to the AmaCerto and skip the crowded Christmas market. Tea was being served in the lounge and I had a small sandwich and a madeline. I love madelines but tonight is the farewell dinner so I didn’t want to spoil it.

After dinner everyone gathered for Christmas carols in the lounge; at least there was Silent Night among Jingle Bells and Rudolph. Santa appeared, surprisingly not played by the Captain who seemed more of “a right jolly old elf”. This Santa was very tall with an American accent. We all received a gift of a boxed wooden Christmas cottage that lights up. It will go well with a lovely wood musical village I bought at a local store at home. We are also told to leave our shoes in the hall for St. Nicholas Day and we’ll find some treats in the morning.

We sail all night to reach Amsterdam by lunch time.

annhig

Still following your trip - and your culinary adventures. John Dory is a fish we see quite a lot of in Cornwall - they are quite tasty but as you discovered they are rather bony, with a very large head in proportion to their bodies.

Nice to be able to see all the different markets and Christmas decorations too.

travlsolo2

Am enjoying your trip report!

Scootoir

Sunday December 6

Our shoes in the hall are full of chocolate, I like this tradition. After breakfast we sailed along the Dutch canals and got a glimpse of modern and more traditional windmills. The sun is trying to come out but if feels chilly on the water so I have added layers to my sweater and jeans. The jeans may stay behind tomorrow as they are old and I need space in my suitcase for Christmas purchases. We have paid our gratuities and picked up our pink luggage tags for the following morning.

After lunch we head to buses and drive the short distance to a pleasure boat dock for the canal cruise. We spent about an hour on the little boats. Amsterdam looks charming from the water. As we passed the house where Anne Frank and her family lived in hiding our guide pointed out the huge line of people waiting to get in. I was able to take lots of photos through the window of the boat—good thing the camera has a setting for this.

After the canal cruise we had a bus tour but I think it would have been better to give us a walking tour or free time at this point. The bus tour did not orient me at all. We passed some spots more than once but I still didn’t have a clear idea of the lay of the land. There are limited places where busses may stop and they finally left us off in a shopping area that was packed with people. Bunny and I were on a mission to find a Christmas ornament from the Netherlands but the prospects did not look good. We were on a street with many chain stores like Clark’s, H&M and Top Shop. As we walked we decided to go in one of two cheese shops on the street—jackpot! I bought tulip shaped chocolates for the Christmas dinner dessert table at home, a small package of orange chocolates to enjoy this week, a blue and white handled cheese slicer and a blue, white and orange china ball ornament straight off their tree. Bunny bought one too. Our last stop was Waterstones, alas no tea and scones like the London store.

We made it back to the corner we thought was the meeting spot for our bus and group. Fortunately some of our tour mates were there as it was more difficult to recognize now that it was dark. That night we had a lovely dinner with the couples from San Diego and New Zealand. The corn soup was good as was the turkey and all the trimmings.

We were one of the last groups to leave the dining room. In the lounge was a trio of young musicians playing guitar and violins and playing classical pieces. I enjoyed this very much. Then it was time to Skype with Mr. Wonderful (I really missed him) and pack.

thursdaysd

Sounds like you had a good time. Best wishes for the flight home, and thanks for the TR.

Scootoir

Monday December 7

We were up early to be ready for our taxi at 8:15. The ship was docked close enough to walk to the train station but with our luggage and a chilly drizzle the taxi was a good idea. Unlike the EuroStar, the Thalys train from Amsterdam to Paris does not have a comfortable waiting area or any security to speak of even after the attack in August or the more recent Paris Attacks. We could have used the first class lounge but it was far from our platform so we decided to wait near track 15. When the train arrived we hoisted our bags on board, set them on the racks and settled into our seats. Lugging them onto the train was the reason we traveled with smaller bags.

Back in August when we booked this trip we planned to visit Paris for a few days after the cruise. Since Air France could get us to Basel and the Thalys could bring us from Amsterdam it seemed pretty reasonable and I’ll find any excuse to go to Paris! When the Paris attack took place we discussed other options but finally decided to stick with our plan to go to Paris.

The train was very comfortable and the ride smooth. We read and watched the scenery until we arrived at the Gare du Nord in Paris about 12:30. Rolling our bags along the platform we headed to the taxi queue but found we were be hustled by other taxi drivers or guys trying to steer us to their driver. We didn’t like this and kept on walking to the queue and waited just a few minutes for the next car. Not sure what was up with the hustlers but we felt more secure with an established location and drivers. We thought it would be too easy to be targeted as “older” women travelers by these guys.

When we travel Mr. Wonderful and I always carry a printed map of our hotel location in case we get lost or separated. It’s also handy when first arriving in town to show a cab driver. Our hotel was located across the river near the Rodin Museum so we had a nice look at Paris from the taxi. We got a glimpse of a favorite Metro station near the Comedie Francaise, passed the Louvre and over the Seine. Soon we pulled up in front of the Hotel de Varenne and checked in. We asked the desk clerk for a lunch recommendation and she sent us to have crepes at Aux Ducs de Bourgogne down the street. The galettes (savory buckwheat crepes) were very good and the owner was a charmer.

After lunch we started walking on the rue St. Dominique to the church Bunny wanted to visit, Chapelle Notre Dame de la Médaille Miraculeuse, the Church of Our Lady of the Miraculous Medal. On the way we came to another church in a square right by our hotel and decided to take a look. This was the Basillica Saint Clotilde and a lovely docent offered to give us a tour. She described how the church was built as a parish church in the 1800s and why it honors Clotilde. She was married to King Clovis and influenced his conversion. We learned our guide loves Los Angeles having visited many times (Bunny and I are from southern California). This was one of those moments on a trip that is unexpected and turns out to be something special.

After the tour we continued to the Mary of the Medal church on the rue du Bac. When we got there a service was going on (Bunny said it was the Rosary). We took seats at the back and listened for a while. On our way out Bunny stopped to speak to someone in the office and planned to attend Mass in the morning. We visited a religious gift shop on the street hoping to find a medal for Bunny’s sister. I ended up buying a small nativity scene framed in a book that opened to show the family inside. I am a recently retired librarian so this was a lovely treasure from Paris.

On our way home we bought sandwiches for a quick dinner. Back at the hotel the clerk allowed us to eat them in the breakfast room and we bought bottled water from him. That night we had tickets to a 7:30 Christmas concert at the Sainte Chapelle. We got there a little before 7 anticipating extra time needed to go through security there. We knew the security check was more extensive here. Once inside we marveled again at how beautiful this glorious chapel is. The concert was wonderful and included instrumental selections before the strings were joined by singers. They sang one of my favorite French carols, and even included “Jingle Bells” in English which was fun. When in Paris don’t miss a concert here; it was easy to purchase the tickets online.

After the concert we stopped for hot drinks and shared an apple tart at a café across from Sainte Chapelle. We noticed some of the singers arrived a little later and it was a rather festive place.

Scootoir

Tuesday December 8

After breakfast at the hotel we walked to the Musee d’Orsay. Bunny was feeling a little puny and did not get up early for 8am Mass. There was a line to get through security before buying tickets but once inside it wasn’t too busy until after lunch. We were able to view many favorite paintings and could take our time. I visited the Musee d’Orsay the week it opened in December 1986 but a strike kept us from visiting in 2011 so I was finally able to visit again after its refurbishment. We had lunch a little early in the 5th floor café. The waiter was very helpful to Bunny and helped her choose something her stomach was up for.

After the museum we stopped in a nearby gift shop to look at some Limoges boxes. The one I liked was 240 euros, a bit more than I wanted to pay. It began to rain so we headed back to the hotel to rest. At this point I was feeling like I was coming down with a cold so the rest was good for both of us.

We had chosen the Hotel de Varenne for its convenient location and good reviews on TripAdvisor. We paid about $225 per night including breakfast. The room was comfortable with attractive decorating. One thing I liked was having the toilet in its own little water closet with a small sink separate from the bathroom. In warm weather the courtyard with its tables would be a lovely spot for breakfast or a drink in the afternoon. Compared to the beds on the ship these are very comfortable. There are restaurants and services nearby and we could easily walk to museums and sights.

In the early evening we walked west on the rue de Grenelle toward Invalides and my favorite neighborhood in the 7th near the Eiffel Tower. I thought we could have dinner at La Terrasse or Café Roussilon but the first place we came to was the rue Cler and I remembered my sister and her husband liked Café Central. We had a good dinner there too. Bunny had eggs Benedict (no sauce) which I was surprised to find on a Paris menu at dinner and I had a salmon burger that was really good.

This evening allowed me to take some sparkling photos of Invalides with the Eiffel Tower in the background and the department store windows. That’s where we headed next. Bunny had spotted the taxi stand so we walked back there for a ride to the Boulevard Haussmann. I like the windows at Printemps which were fanciful but Galleries Lafayette featured Star Wars. I had heard this was the case but it was even more disappointing in person. The tree inside Galleries Lafayette was pretty spectacular and made for another sparking photo.

FabulousFrance

Ahhhh Paris...
I never tire of reading about my favorite city on earth.

Scootoir

My favorite too FabFrance

Treesa

I'm enjoying your report very much. Thank you.

rncheryl

Thanks for this review. We are sailing on Avalon Tranquility II in September Rhine adventure and have jotted down some of your recommendations.

Good thing DH relies on me to do trip planning, and then goes along with anything I have planned with a smile. Win-win. I also love traveling with college roommates. Girl power.

We have seen Diane Bish many times here in Ft Lauderdale. What an amazing talent!

rncheryl

Oh, I forgot to mention, I have that Paris Suitcase ornament too!

travelchat

Following you along your travels - pure pleasure!

kathleen

Also following this thread since we're booked on an AmaWaterways trip next fall (Portugal-Douro River). I'm curious about the light switch/tape information. Could you elaborate or explain again?

And I'm enjoying hearing about the trip and your adventures both on the boat and off, whether on the excursions or on your own. Thanks for posting a wonderful trip report! Hope there is more.

Scootoir

Hi Kathleen,

When you walk in the cabin there are 4 light switches on the wall. The fourth one operated the bathroom window and switched it from clear to opaque. We used a piece of tape to keep the switch in place so we didn't accidently flip that switch and change the window from opaque to clear. When it's clear you have a view strait to the toilet...

kerouac

Who has a view? Someone in the cabin or someone out on the river?

kathleen

Thanks. I understand. The door to the bathroom, from the bedroom, has a glass window. Keeping the window in the frosted position affords privacy as well as keeping much of the light out of the bedroom at night, if someone should use the bathroom. Good idea.

Scootoir

Someone in the cabin can see into the bathroom Kerouac. Possibly someone on the river if you had the drapes open and the angle were just right. ;-)

Kathleen the bathroom window is in the wall between the bedroom and bath, not a window in the bathroom door. It will light up the cabin whether the window is clear or opaque. It's a nuisance.