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Old Mar 17th, 2012, 09:02 AM
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Continuation of Day 6: Granada!

We arrived at the Granada train station and were met by a cab driver. The owner of the rental apartment we were using had arranged to send him and the taxi cost us 10 euros to get from the train station to the apartment we rented in the Albaicin. (http://www.vrbo.com/181071). Although the apartment was a three-bedroom and I was only looking for a two-bedroom, I really fell in love with the views it provided of the Alhambra. We arrived at the meeting point and found the apartment owner who took us to the apartment. The taxi could only get so close since many roads in the Albaicin are unreachable by car. The apartment was lovingly decorated with lots of furniture and decorations purchased by the owners on their travels throughout Spain and Africa. It was quirky too. For instance, there was only one bathroom on the ground floor despite the fact that our bedrooms were on the second and third floors. We enjoyed the two terraces, particularly the ability to eat breakfast outside in the morning, and the constant views of the Alhambra. All that being said, in retrospect, I think I might have selected to stay in a hotel closer to downtown. We walked past several on the Carrera del Darro along the river that looked lovely. While it looks like the Albaicin is slowly getting cleaned up, it’s not all the way there yet. We encountered graffiti all around, stray dogs wandering around, and dog poop everywhere! Additionally, although the apartment had individual space heaters, it was generally cold at night. The Albaicin is a fascinating place to visit, I just don’t think I would make it my home base again in Granada.

After getting ourselves acquainted with the apartment, we walked up to the Mirador San Nicolas to see the sunset. The mirador was crowded with tourists and locals alike and is indeed an amazing lookout spot, particularly as the sun descends in the west. Immediately below the Mirador was a restaurant, El Huerto de Juan Ranas, that had outdoor seating with more great views of the Alhambra. We each had a nice glass of wine while the sky continued to change color. Eventually, it got too chilly to sit outside and although our dinner reservations at Mirador de Morayma were for 8:30 we headed over anyway. We were greeted by a waiter who told us we were the only people who made reservations for the night and he quickly flipped on all of the light switches! We felt bad that he was opening up the place just for us, but fortunately, in about thirty minutes more guests began to trickle in. The restaurant had been recommended by the apartment owner and it was very nice, although by far the most expensive meal we had during our week in Spain. I would recommend it for the warmer weather months when the large windows and terrace are open so you can really enjoy the views of the Alhambra.

Thursday, Day 7: Exploring Granada

We had tickets to the Nasrid Palaces at 10:30 this morning so we woke up early and walked downtown to get the Number 30 bus to the Alhambra. Our walk brought us down through Caldereria Nueva, a street that is lined with tea salons, kebab restaurants, and many Moorish craft shops and street stalls. It’s what I imagined the streets in Morocco to look like. Our timing was excellent because as soon as we got off the Caldereria Nueva, we spotted the 30 bus and headed for it. The goal was to be at the Alhambra by 9 in order to explore the Alcazaba before entering the Nasrid so we skipped breakfast at home. The first place serving food that we came upon on the grounds of the Alhambra was the Hotel America. Note: keep walking! There is a small stand selling snacks and coffee outside the Alcazaba for probably much cheaper than what we paid for our breakfast. At the Hotel, we ordered three coffees, three croissants and the “fruit of the season,” which came as six whole kiwis rolling around on a plate, and the bill came to 23 euros! Yikes.

Finally arriving at the Alcazaba, we climbed the stairs to the Torre de la Vela (Watchtower) for the amazing views of the Albaicin and the rest of the sprawling city. We tried to locate our apartment, but without binoculars were out of luck. After exploring the rest of the Alcazaba, we walked out in time for our 10:30 tickets to the Nasrid Palace. It was just as impressive as everyone has said, though I think I would go back with a tour guide to be able to more fully appreciate it, particularly since our audio guides were not functioning properly at this point. From the Nasrid we walked into the Charles V Palace. What an amazingly deceptive place – the square exterior doesn’t give any indication of that giant circular interior courtyard! Lastly we visited the Generalife and were able to see even better views of Granada, this time with the Alcazaba and Nasrid Palaces in the foreground. We finally departed the Alhambra grounds at 1:30, at this point hungry for lunch.

We managed to catch the 30 bus back downtown and walked to Restaurant Oliver, a recommendation from Maribel’s Guide to Granada (http://www.maribelsguides.com/). I would highly recommend this guide. We put away our other guidebooks and relied solely on her advice while in Granada, in addition of course, to the comments from this forum! The bar area at Oliver was crowded and we felt like sitting down at this point so we were escorted into the back dining room which was full of locals, mainly those on their lunch break, eating. The food was great! Mom and I split the paella mixta while Dad enjoyed cod with tomatoes. We particularly enjoyed the yogurt cake for dessert as well as the fresh fruit that was served. The fruit in Granada was generally outstanding! Here again, the waiter was so nice! Just around the corner from the restaurant is the Capilla Real (Royal Chapel). We enjoyed the chapel as well as its treasury and small museum full of Flemish paintings. I would say that we were inside for about forty-five minutes. It really is a small chapel.

By this time, and after a big lunch, we were all getting a little tired so we returned back to the apartment and had our first Spanish siesta of the trip. It was nice to sit on the couch and look back at the Alhambra after exploring it all morning. Eventually, we flipped on the television and found Julie & Julia being aired on an Arab language station. There we were in Spain, watching an American movie in English with Arab subtitles – talk about cultures crossing! It seemed a perfect little modern-day example of all the blending of cultures in Andalusia, and in particular, Granada.

With our strength regained, we left the apartment and walked to Pena Flamenca La Plateria for a 10:30 pm flamenco show. From my understanding, this place is normally a members-only club, but on Thursday evenings it opens its doors to everyone. We headed into the bar first and experienced our first taste of the free tapas tradition in Granada. With three beers, we were given a tasty potato salad and we supplemented that with jamon and some cheese. At around 10:30 everyone exited the bar and walked across the courtyard to gain access to the flamenco space. The tickets were 8 euro each (what a good deal!) and once seated inside at tables we were served complimentary pitchers of sangria. Waiters occasionally came around to take food and drink orders too. The flamenco performance was fantastic. We were there until 1 am and really enjoyed it. The crowd seemed to be a mix of locals and tourists and before the show and during the break we were able to talk to those sharing our table about their travel stories and recommendations. What a great night!
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Old Mar 17th, 2012, 12:21 PM
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thanks for your reply re Casa de Palatos. Even though I have places I'm interested in seeing in Spain marked on various city maps, I still don't have enough of a concept of how long of a walk it is to reach them. I prefer to walk a lot when I'm traveling as it's so much fun to explore.

I'm still happily following your adventure. Re Granada, were you happy you saw the Alhambra in the morning? I am not sure if I should see it in the morning or afternoon There doesn't seem to be a consensus in all the research I've been doing.
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Old Mar 17th, 2012, 12:48 PM
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Good report, and well done for a major first holiday plan.

Now what is it about Americans that they have to store eggs in a fridge? Is there evidence that unfertilised eggs last longer chilled and what about picking up flavours from the fridge.

Still my partner stores honey in a fridge so go figure.
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Old Mar 17th, 2012, 01:49 PM
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Excellent work again nyc, we too are staying in an apartment in the Albaicin. Will follow up on your dining experiences and the flamenco in particular sounds wonderful. Thank you again.
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Old Mar 18th, 2012, 05:23 AM
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JerseySusan: We were happy to be there in the morning because the light was particularly good, but it was freeeeeezing until about 11 am when things finally began to warm up. I'm guessing that won't be an issue in the warmer months. Sorry that I can't compare it to the afternoon session.


Friday, Day 8:

After the very late night of flamenco, we decided to set no alarm clocks this morning. When we all did wake up, Mom and I walked up to Plaza Larga to buy some pastries and fruit from the market that’s set up in the plaza each day. These are the kinds of moments that we most love about travel – getting to pretend that you’re a local for a bit, asking which fruit the seller recommends, trying to ask the pastry shop employee if she sells the items to go (para llevar?). Apartment rentals make it that much more fun, by being able to take your purchases in hand, return home and enjoy a great breakfast on the terrace, looking out over the Alhambra hill.

Since we were staying the Albaicin, but had not explored it all that much, we decided to do Maribel’s self-guided tour of the area for the morning part of the day and visit the Carthusian Monastery in the afternoon. The tour of the Albaicin was great and I highly recommend it! We walked down to the Plaza Nueva where we discovered a nice shop, La Estampaora, and purchased some watercolor prints of Granada. From there we followed her guide to a tee. A few notes on the walking tour: (1) you need to be a good walker for the tour as it involves some steep walking a la San Francisco; (2) the guide doesn’t explicitly tell you to stop in the Iglesia de San Salvador, but do! It’s a beautiful church that, like so many others, was once a mosque and there’s a nice courtyard; (3) definitely, definitely stop at Bar Aliatar in Plaza Aliatar. The snails were great and it was here that we had our first and only meal in Granada made up of complimentary tapas with drinks. The first complimentary tapa was a plate of delicious langoustines, followed by tortilla, followed by slices of cheese on bread with fantastic olive oil drizzled on top. I loved this place, particularly enjoying the sun while sitting outside and listening to the musicians. Other than that, no other notes on the tour, except to do it!

After we finished, we hopped on a bus that took us downtown where we transferred to the Number 8 bus to take us to the Carthusian Monastery. Only trouble: we got on the bus going in the wrong direction and didn’t realize it for quite some time. Thus, we had to hop back off and retrace our steps, adding a bit of time to our journey. A visit to the Monastery is well worth the trip, though. The chapel is just as over the top as described in the guide books, and the other spaces of the monastery off the central courtyard have a number of interesting paintings that give you a sense of the history of the Carthusians.

After our visit, we hailed a cab outside the monastery that brought us back downtown where we started to walk and window shop. At this point, many locals were done with their workdays and also out walking, talking, and browsing in the many shops downtown. It was great to watch all of the families out together, particularly the number of grandmothers and/or grandfathers accompanying their children and grandchildren. Our destination, or rather, my destination was Gran Café Bib-Rambla because we had been in Spain for nine days and had not yet had any churros. We arrived and promptly ordered churros, chocolate, and three espressos. It was delicious. The churros here were not served sprinkled with cinnamon sugar the way I’m used to having them in NY, but maybe that’s a Mexican style? Not sure. The outdoor seating area quickly filled up with lots of families with children anxious for the fried treats too. We followed up with a little shopping, including a stop at a small store called Pashmina Republic selling beautiful scarves. Three purchases caused the shop owner to gift my father with a scarf of his own! It came in handy during our evening tour of the Nasrid Palaces.

I was on the fence about doing a night tour, but eventually decided that since we had the time, we might as well. It’s amazing what you notice at night that you didn’t notice during the day and the spaces really have a magical quality about them at night. In addition to the Nasrid, we were able to walk into the Charles V Palace where we could look up through the large open courtyard to see the stars spread out in the sky. We all agreed that it was a great way to spend the early evening. I would suggest getting up there early so you can watch the sun set and the colors change over the Albaicin hill and, as everyone says, don’t do a nighttime visit without also doing a daytime visit.

The plan was to return back downtown and eat dinner at Los Diamantes on Calle Navas but when we got there it was packed! And neither Mom nor Dad felt like squeezing in at the bar so we walked further down the street and came to a place called La Chicota that was also very crowded. We ordered racione portions of albondigas (meatballs – and, oops, forgetting about our Lenten obligations! Although really any fast would have been ruined by those churros!), fried boquerones, and pisto (ratatouille). The food was good, but I kept wishing we had been able to try the fried boquerones at Los Diamantes!

And with that, our nine days in Spain were over. The next day, we packed our bags and dragged them down the cobblestone streets of the Albaicin, through the Caldereria Nueva on our way to Plaza Nueva where we had some breakfast before meeting Manuel, the cab driver who had brought us to the apartment just a few days earlier. Our travels back home were happily uneventful and we returned to NY full of stories to tell. I feel fortunate that this trip, unlike so many others, did not feel like it was over in a second (sorry for the double negative.) Perhaps that’s due to changing scenery every three days, I’m not sure. It was a fantastic trip and a great introduction to the beautiful country of Spain and its tremendously welcoming people.

Now where to next?
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Old Mar 18th, 2012, 11:09 AM
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Take a look at Belle Epoque San Sebastián, a favourite for Spanish and French holiday makers for some 150 years. The culinary capital of Spain, beautiful landscapes, some of the finest city beaches on the continent and a local culture that people take great pride in. European capital of culture 2016.

See these articles: "Is San Sebastián the best place to eat in Europe?": http://www.guardian.co.uk/lifeandsty...rink.shopping2
NYT, last august: http://travel.nytimes.com/2011/08/07...tin-spain.html

I've lived here and visited almost every year since the late 1980's and could give you lots of suggestions for both San Sebastián and the beautiful Basque region in general.
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Old Mar 20th, 2012, 01:14 AM
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So so sad you didn´t visit the impressive Plaza de España in Seville. Its also in one of the most beautiful zones of seville. Plaza de España is a stunning building, pictures dont do it justice, for its grandness and beauty. For the next time.

http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_Gn6pLZ-HaK...2010%2B104.jpg

http://sientesevilla.com/wp-content/...re-690x517.jpg
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Old Mar 20th, 2012, 06:03 AM
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Plaza de España - STAR WARS!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=edhLosefD0Q
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Old Mar 20th, 2012, 12:38 PM
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We're also sorry that we didn't get to see Plaza de Espana. It was on our list, particularly to get a chance to see it at night illuminated, but just didn't get a chance.
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Old May 1st, 2012, 12:57 PM
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nyc, I'm not even finished with your report yet, but I had to comment. I'm reading your report just for entertainment value mixed with nostalgia for Spain. I lived "en la Macarena" in Sevilla with a host family - 12 years ago, I can hardly believe - and I walked to school near the Cathedral every day. So it sounds like you experienced the very same daily walk I did. I think that neighborhood is a little more off the beaten path, so I'm glad you sought it out!

Also, to echo the others, congratulations on your trip with your parents - I went with my parents to Italy when I was in my mid-twenties and we had a blast. It's always an adventure, isn't it???

Great report, thank you so much for sharing it! Now I have to go dig up my journal and re-live the memories!
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