patiricia

Recently spent a week on a self-drive canal boat in Burgundy. We (3 couples) rented a boat from Le Boat and picked it up in Chatel Censoir. This is quite a small town with just a small market, but we were able to provision quite well, as there was a butcher and boulangerie as well (as most small towns have). We tried our hands at working our first lock and then tied up in the canal for the night. Each day was an adventure as we traveled the Nivernais canal and sometimes the Yonne river, meeting the lock keepers along the way. Most were quite friendly and helpful. We had one of our group "talk up" the lock keepers and we passed out little key rings with our home town on them. I thought that would be silly, but they seemed to love it!
We enjoyed Auxerre very much. It is a big city, but beautiful and historic and a great walking tour. From there we arranged a tour of Chablis, which was very good. Finally I understand a bit more about French wines. Great lunch in Chablis village as well.
We ended our week in Migennes with the last lock the largest and deepest of them all. All in all a wonderful week with friends, exploring little villages in rural France and finding restaurants and lots of wine!
I have lots more detail if anyone is planning this kind of trip.

taconictraveler

Thanks for this report. We've been looking in to a barge trip with friends. There would be eight of us. BUT barge trips in France seem VERY expensive.

so I wonder if we could do a self-drive canal boat. Could you tell me more about the cost, the route you took, how difficult the "SELF" part was etc.?

How much space did each couple have? Two of our "guys" are 6'2" and not skinny, though not fat.

Many thanks for any more info you can provide.

Sarastro

The self-driven boats are very easy and the routes are pre-determined eliminating any navigational difficulty. Anyone can do it but these are not the same travel experience as are the hotel barges.

The barges are turn-key operations where you are led everywhere. Meals are prepared and served to you, the wine selections are carefully planned, and all ancillary activities are taken care of for you by others.

The self driven boats are just that - self-sufficient. While there are usually a good number of restaurants along the canals should you decide to take advantage of them, renting a self-driven boat is a lot like camping. Many love this type of vacation, including myself, but not everyone is pleased with what must be done during the voyage.

Should you like to obtain additional information, here is a list of the largest boat rental companies currently operating in France:

http://www.leboat.com/

http://www.locaboat.com/

http://www.bourgogne-fluviale.com/

http://www.nicols.com/

http://www.rive-de-france.com/
http://www.minervoiscruisers.com/english/main/

TPAYT

Sounds absolutely fabulous! Let's hear more.

Images2

How many locks did you go through during your weeks trip?

nukesafe

Patericia,

Watch it! Ditch crawling can become addictive. There are over 5,000 miles of navigable waterways in France alone to explore. I have friends who loved it so much they bought their own canal boat in Holland, and have cruised every year for the past ten summers.

Our last tip was a few years ago, and as I recall, boat rental, onboard food, and fuel averaged out to less than $100 per person, per day, for the four of us.

taconictraveler

I'm aware of the differences, and not sure our crowd can manage the self-drive, but it's worth examining, as the cost is so much different. The barge trips were what we had in mind, but seem expensive - but maybe are not for what you get.

Thanks for the sites.

Michael

Our trip was before trip reports were written. But here are the pictures, sandwiched between the two maps that represent our trip:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/mksfca/...7622755059630/

and yes, Sarastro defined best--it is a lot like camping.

aussie_10

We have been thinking of a canal trip and yes we are campers.

Thank you for your report

skibumette

We (2 couples) did this about 10 years ago (on the Canal du Midi). The first decision we made was to get a large enough boat so that we had two "master cabins," each with its own bathroom -- that helped to minimize the campout feel.

We bought food before setting out for breakfast and lunch, although we were usually able to walk or ride our bikes to a boulangerie for fresh croissants each morning. We took provisions for one cook-aboard dinner, but we found wonderful restaurants along the way, even in the smallest villages or next to a lock. We had to consciously plan a dinner on board at the end of the trip in order to use up our provisions.

It takes a half day or so to become proficient at handling the "up" locks -- after that it was just a nice amount of activity during the day. If you have any history of boating, you'll enjoy it. I'd do it again in a heartbeat.

patiricia

taconictraveler, we were a group of 6 with a couple tall good-size guys. We got the largest boat they had, the Magnifique, which actually had 4 cabins, but only 3 heads, so we opted to limit ourselves to 6. we were glad we did -- we used the extra cabin for luggage and stuff we didn't want to clutter our cabins. There isn't a lot of space, or luxuries, but it was a great trip. We used to do a lot of bareboat sailing, and it is very much like that, but easier to navigate! It is quite easy to manage the boat after you get the hang of it. And exploring the towns and finding places to eat and buy breakfast, etc. was so fun. We probably did about 40 locks in the week. Some days were long but others were more lazy. Sometimes some of us would take bikes or just walk between locks. There are so many routes to choose from you could wander your way around forever! Very fun.

LLindaC

we did it with 2 teens 2 years ago. Rained nearly the whole time. Had it not been for great food and loads of wine, it would have been bad. If it were hot, a disaster I would think. You have to schedule your stops to make sure you are somewhere at x time because the locks close from 12-2.
I don't think I'd do it again, though it was different. The darned things move so slowly, we often were rushed through the villages just to make progress.

patiricia

LLindaC, respectfully, we didn't find it that way at all. We had good weather, just one rainy bit and we just ducked into a restaurant for a "winey" lunch. It was hot, but we stayed up on top and got the breeze under our parasol. The locks close but just for an hour. We picked a short trip so we wouldn't be rushed, and we had time to go downstream for a stop in Clamency before we headed back up. We did try to get as far as we could in the evenings before tying up. The locks were open until 7pm and there was light until nearly 11 in July. Just have to be ready to relax and go with the "flow"!

LLindaC

I would have enjoyed it more had it not been so uncommonly wet! However, we actually had to stop in Tonerre just to do laundry and get some things DRY! We only got to use our bikes one time the entire week. But heck, we sure had some GREAT food and wine. Much better in the rural towns than in Pari$.

jetsetj

thanks for the report.
we too have done 2 cruises with Le Boat.
First in south of France-Camargue
second in Holland

We cant wait to do it again. it is so relaxing and fun.
and very affordable. try it ,you will love it.

patiricia

Yes Linda the food and wine was great! we just drank mostly the local plonk for about 6 euros and it was just fine. We had a shock in the cities paying lots more. Loved the escargot!

TPAYT

Michael-----your photos of the boat and canals gave us good insight on what to expect.

Anyone else have photos?

nozard

Patricia, I am interested in more details of your trip on the Nivernais Canal. We are going in the opposite direction from Migennes to Chatel-Censoir. Do you have any suggestions for your nightly stops and the little villages along the way? I love the idea of giving the lock keepers little souvenirs from our hometown. Was it a leisurely cruise with not much to do, or did you feel you missed some sights along the way? Any detailed information would be most appreciated. Thanks, Nancy

vladagoca

I just go back from a canal trip using DIY boat with 5 other people, starting from Migennes. Our experience was not that good. When we arrived they told us the annals through Auxerre ere closed due to the high water levels. We took an alternative canal which was not as exciting as what we planned for. We could not cancel and get refunds. For me, irregardless of poor rainy weather this type of vacation is too expensive for what it is a boring slow canal trip through French country side that it monotonous. If it wasn't for good food and wine this trip for me would be not worth it. Going through the locks is interesting the first 2 locks you go through after that it is a hustle I could do without. They are closed for lunch and close by 6 Pm. Sometimes you have to wait for the lock guy to show up because they are busy with other locks they service. Take my advise rent a cottage, and a car , in the area you would like to visit, you would have much more fun at a half the price. You will also see a lot more of France by moving from place to place in a car. Le Boat rental is too expensive for what it is, a slow moving barge with camping like accommodations and smelly bathrooms disguised as an adventure trip.