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A week in Provence! Report.

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A week in Provence! Report.

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Old Aug 30th, 2004 | 05:48 AM
  #1  
AR
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A week in Provence! Report.

Unfortunately, not a "Year in Provence". Here's my report to anyone that's interested in visiting and a nod of gratitude for contributors on various threads with regard to the region that provided much help with our plans.
We booked a gite with views of Gordes and it's own private swimming pool so that our 7 year old daughter could enjoy, and flew from Gatwick to Marseille. We stopped off in Aix on the way for lunch and a browse. Aix is charming, with a very large market (it was Saturday) selling flowers, linen, fruit & veg etc.
The next day we went to the farmer's market at Le Coustellet to buy garlic, green beans, mushrooms, cheese and potatoes. We chose a nice big chicken that seemed to have been ready prepared. As it was taken out of the glass counter, it's head flopped out as it had been tucked underneath. My wife's face was a picture and the cleaver was out double quick to remove the head.
The next day we visited Avignon where the underground car park brought us up directly into the main square. I had always known of Avignon as a Papal town, but must admit that I'd never heard of the bridge and it's song before.
After lunch we pressed along to Chateauneuf-du-pape and a visit to a wine cave. The views from the ruins are spectacular, especially Mont Ventoux and the Dentelles de Montmirail. We continued to Orange and visited the Roman Theatre. I'd read on various threads and in the guide books that a visit to Orange could be avoided without missing much, but I enjoyed the roman remains there.
The next day was a visit to St Remy and on to Arles. This was my favourite stop with it's magnificent amphitheatre and charming town. Unfortunately, it was market day in St Remy and it was too busy. We did, however, manage to find Nostradamus' birth house.
We had a hiatus the next day as a dentist was needed. However, it was all resolved swiftly (if expensively!) and efficiently.
The one thing about France (which some call charming) is the fact that it always seems closed! As someone so spoilled that I'm used to 24/7, I always find it amusing that I passed the same shops day after day for the whole week and they were always closed!
If anyone is interested, I will continue with the second half of the report.
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Old Aug 30th, 2004 | 06:08 AM
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The owners of the closed shops were no doubt off on their August vacation--many operations close during at least part of that time.

Please do post the rest of your report--hearing about Provence always makes my day.

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Old Aug 30th, 2004 | 09:12 AM
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AR
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Thanks Underhill. The last comments were made somewhat tongue in cheek.
By the middle of the week, the family had become tired of my driving around (and my driving) - so I went alone along the N100 through Apt and Forcalquier to Sisteron. The views of the Alps were brilliant, as was the sight of the citadel at Sisteron from a distance. The town itself was a disappointment, but the drive back along the Durance was great.
The rest of the time was spent locally with visits to L'isle-sur-la-Sorgue, Fontaine de Vacluse, Menerbes and Gordes. I loved L'isle-s-l-Sorgue and Fontaine especially. Gordes was impossible for crowds, but as we were so close it was easy to return early for breakfast and the place almost to ourselves.
For the last full day we visited Rousillon and the ochre mines. The place was stunning with vivid red and yellow colours of the rocks. We are still washing it out of the clothes!
On our route back to Marseille airport for an evening flight, we detoured to Cassis on the coast. There is a free park and ride in operation there which proved useful. We then drove along the coast (on top of the mountain) to la Ciotat but my driving proved too much for the family!!
All in all a fantastic visit in the one area of France that I have never been to. We will definately come again to Provence, perhaps going further east next time to take in the Canyon at Verdon and the Cote d'Azur.
I would highy recommend the website we booked from - www.welcomecottages.com. I think they may now be France Direct. We have used them three times and every one has been faultless.
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Old Aug 30th, 2004 | 09:25 AM
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Thanks for the trip report, I leave in one week for a similiar trip, this was a great preview. What was the weather like, is it still quite warm or has it toned down?
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Old Aug 30th, 2004 | 12:11 PM
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AR
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The weather was great. Not blisteringly hot but very pleasant. We had one night of thunder, but the rest was superb (between 23 to 28 degrees centigrade each day). Have a nice trip and enjoy. The crowds will have died down in another week.
Are you staying in the same area?
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Old Aug 30th, 2004 | 01:24 PM
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Thanks, AR. My husband and I have a week in Provence in early October and we plan to do much the same as you. My husband likes to drive around, too, so I think we may be doing an identical trip, LOL! Thanks for the tip about Rousillon. I'll make sure we wear our least favorite clothes the day we go there, because I want to hike around a bit. What did you think of Cassis? Did you walk around the town at all? We'd like to see the calanques while we're there.
 
Old Aug 30th, 2004 | 05:42 PM
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AR: thanks for the weather update. I know that it could change and be totally different in a week, but this will help me pack for now.
We will be staying in Perns les Fontaine, which is right by Isle sur la Sorgue, for two weeks. We will be doing a fair bit of driving around and visiting the same sites you were. I too get a little tired of my husbands driving, it can be terrifying, but once we are home, I always compliment him on his good driving and navigating. He's always surprised, says " I never would have known by the way you act in the car"...I'm going to bite my tongue this trip!
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Old Aug 30th, 2004 | 06:50 PM
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Hi,
What a wonderful trip. We rented a gite for a week in Uzes last summer. We went to many of the same places and your report brought back great memories. My DH is a great navigator, but his driving also makes me nervous. I found that if I look out the side window, instead of straight ahead, I do better. If all else fails, ride in the back seat. I hate to comment and complain, as that does not help the situation. Plus I know he doesn't want to get into an accident, so it is my letting go of being in control.

Yes go again and stay longer if you can.
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Old Aug 30th, 2004 | 11:00 PM
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AR
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Thanks all.
Yes, dln - we did have a good walk around Cassis, both around the town and the harbour. The sea is crystal clear. We were hovering around the boats for the calanques. The prices (from memory) were: To visit 3 calanques was 11 Euros and was of 45 minutes duration. 5 Calanques was 15 Euros and took an hour. 8 Calanques was a 90 minute trip and I forget the price. I think that you could disembark at one for an additional 15 Euros.
On the subject of car hire, I found Hertz in Marseille-Provence Airport to be one of the most disorganised shambles I have ever hired a car from. I don't know if any of the others there are different, but it took an age to actually get the car and even took over 30 minutes just to drop the car off. Even though it has a separate desk for returns, nobody mans it and you have to queue with everyone else. Even the Gold Club members had to queue (and they were not happy). There was only one guy in front of me and it still took half an hour to just pass over the keys.
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