A Trip to Rome w/jaunts to Florence & Frascati, & of course, Limoncello!
Jun 17th, 2009, 10:33 PM
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Susan,
Just found your trip report, and I can't wait for you to continue!
Just some questions about the apartment:
There's no picture of the sofabed - did you happen to take any pictures of the apartment?
The website mentioned it was renovated - do you know when it was renovated?
On the last trip to Rome, we really had some rock-hard beds in the hotels...how was the bed here?
I have to say, that price is pretty spectacular, but as you indicated it is noisy.
Just found your trip report, and I can't wait for you to continue!
Just some questions about the apartment:
There's no picture of the sofabed - did you happen to take any pictures of the apartment?
The website mentioned it was renovated - do you know when it was renovated?
On the last trip to Rome, we really had some rock-hard beds in the hotels...how was the bed here?
I have to say, that price is pretty spectacular, but as you indicated it is noisy.
Jun 17th, 2009, 10:58 PM
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Hi Susan, I was just thinking of you recently and that I hadn't seen any Rome trip reports in a while...was happy to see this! A great start. I will be back in Italy after a 2 year absence..can't let that happen again! Will be waiting to read the rest of your report.
Cin Cin
Jen
Cin Cin
Jen
Jun 18th, 2009, 08:27 AM
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Anna, I don't think I have a picture of the sofa bed. In any event, I never used it so don't know if it's comfortable. The bed was fine, though. The pictures on the website are very accurate.
Hi Jen, nice to hear from you! Too bad I won't be in Rome at the same time so we could meet again for dinner. I'm actually going to Paris in July. I'm on a tight budget and have a free room there with my Hilton Honors points.
I did lose the portion of the report that I had written and am now having trouble copying and pasting. I'll get more of the report up as soon as I can.
Hi Jen, nice to hear from you! Too bad I won't be in Rome at the same time so we could meet again for dinner. I'm actually going to Paris in July. I'm on a tight budget and have a free room there with my Hilton Honors points.
I did lose the portion of the report that I had written and am now having trouble copying and pasting. I'll get more of the report up as soon as I can.
Jan 22nd, 2011, 12:56 PM
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Well, it's now almost two years later. I never got around to finishing this report and figured maybe I should do so before returning to Rome in a few weeks. The rest might not be quite as detailed, because I'm sure I've forgotten some things, but my notes and pictures will help.
After the concert, I continue north of Piazza Navona to the Palazza Altemps. The entry fee is E10 and includes the Palazzo Massimo alle Terme, which I plan to see later in the week. (It also includes the Diocletian Baths). Lots of classical sculpture, which I enjoy but not as much as some other (Bernini comes to mind). I don't normally do much shopping in museum shops, which may be surprising since I love books, but I decide to take a look. Maybe I need to do this more often. I buy a book, A Journey to Rome, which is one of my favorite souvenirs of all my trips. It is filled with lovely delicate watercolors by Daniele Ohnheiser that each accompany an excerpt from an author's letters, diaries or memoirs about Rome. It includes Dickens, Shelley, Ruskin, Goeth, Stendhal and more. Wonderful!
I wander back through the Piazza Navona and buy a couple scarves from a vendor south of the piazza, then get a gelato and head back to my apartment to put my feet up for a while before dinner. Having read great reviews, I'm going to Al Bric, on Via Pellegrino just off Campo dei Fiori. I was going to have the parrapedelle with wild boar and sausage but change my mind. I start with the Broiled Artichokes with bacon and pecorino cheese, delicious, and then have the Cinghiale with Blueberry Sauce. It's very good, but not quite as good as I had anticipated, so maybe I should have gone with the parrapedelle (the guy next to me had it and raved about it). The other thing about this restaurant is that the house wine was pretty bad (and I'm not that picky, normally I'm fine with the house wine). This was particularly surprising, since Al Bric is also an enoteca. With ½ liter of the house wine, E44.
I head over to the Piazza Navona for my usual Limoncello. The piazza is pretty empty, most artists are gone because it's so cold. On the way back to the apartment, there are a lot of Irish guys celebrating their soccer win. They're having a great time!
The next morning, I walk over to Camp dei Fiori and get a banana from the market for breakfast, then catch the bus to the Vittorio Emanuele II Monument. Naturally, I've seen this many times but have never gone inside. I had read that you only had to go up a couple of flights of stairs to get to the elevator that takes you to the top. I start up the very broad staircase, up up up! One flight of stairs here is equivalent to two or more normal flights. After climbing a couple of flights and seeing more stairs, I stop at that flight and ask a lady how much further it is. Turns out that it will be a lot more stairs! I mention that I have trouble with my knee, and she immediately says to follow her. She takes me over to a small elevator not generally for the public and says I can take that up. Great! I thank her and take this small elevator up to the point where the elevator going to the top starts, which is E7.
Of course, the views from the top are wonderful. Although it's still a chilly day, it's blue skies and sunny. Up on top in the sun, it's actually warm enough to take my jacket off, since I have a sweater underneath. I spend a good amount of time up here just enjoying the various views all around and ask a young Japanese girl to take my picture. Sometimes I'll be somewhere for a couple of days and then realize I don't have any pictures of myself. I like to get at least a few each trip.
On the way down, I go in to the museum and really enjoy this as well. That statue of General Cialdini at the Battle of Castelfidardo in 1859 is quite impressive! I think I walked down a flight or so, then asked about the small elevator, which took me right down to ground level. Very good, as going down stairs is even worse for the arthritis than going up.
I get a spicy salami and mozarella pannini and a bottle of water from one of the vendors right outside (E6) and sit in the sun to eat, then walk around a little past the Forum of Trajan. Later I get a bus up Via Nazionale to go to Castroni's. You could easily spend a fortune here on all kinds of specialty foods. I do find some tuna-stuffed red peppers in a jar that I had bought a couple of years ago in Bologna which are delicious, so I got a jar of those and a couple other things. Then back to the apartment for a while before dinner.
I go over to the Piazza Navona before dinner to see my friend, one of the artists. I usually get a painting on each trip. I love his work, so it isn't hard to find one I want. I tell him it might have to be the last one, because I'm running out of wall space at home! Paintings are among my favorite things to buy, because then you see them every day at home and are reminded of a great trip. I have the most of Rome but also have them from Florence, Venice, the Amalfi Coast and Paris.
Dinner is at one of my favorite places, Hostaria la Romano La Danesina on Via del Governo Vecchio. I especially love their Terrine Pomodoro Bufalo Mozarella, a wonderful, thick homemade tomato soup with thick slices of Buffalo Mozarella floating on top. Mmmm! I start with Bruschetta Pomodoro Basilia and also have Carciofa Giuda, another favorite, along with the soup. With ½ liter of the house wine, E23. It's late and I figure the cafes in the Piazza Navona are probably close to closing, so instead I decide to try the tiny bar right next to my apartment. I'm delighted to find four or five people there singing (Brazilian music), and one is playing the flute. I enjoy my Limoncello while listening. Apparently they just get together there to share their music, it's not a formal concert at all. They are very good, though. I stop to tell them how much I enjoyed it on my way out. The owner tells me to take care, and I say, don't worry, I live right next door. As I unlocked my door, I realized what I had said. I didn't say I was staying next door; I said I live next door! Wishful thinking, I guess.
I got to bed pretty late and was tired, so the next morning I sleep in and am very lazy, then get an early lunch at Lo Zozzone on Via del Teatro Pace. They have a large selection of sandwiches. The one I order has ham, cheese, artichokes and mayonnaise, E3.50. Very good! Then I go over to Via dei Banchi Vecchi to a favorite jewelry shop, Sancesario Emilio. Two brothers and their sister make all the beautiful jewelry. I always check out what's on sale and do get a few things, a bracelet for myself and a couple gifts.
Next, I take the bus to the Palazzo Massimo alle Terme. Lots of Greek and Roman sculpture, including the “woman” lying on her side, but when you go around the other side, you see the sculpture is man and woman combined. Very unusual! I particularly enjoy the wonderful frescoes, as well as the mosaics on the top floor. There's also a very large sculpture of the Goddess Minerva. With my late start and shopping before the museum, it's late afternoon before I'm through, so I take the bus back to my apartment to put my feet up before dinner, as usual.
For dinner I go to La Sagrestia, Via del Seminario, just to the left of the Pantheon if you're facing it. The Bresaola with Rucola and Parmigiana is delicious, as is the Gnocchetti with Mussels & Gorgonzola. With ½ liter of house wine and yummy Panne Cotta for dessert, E40.
When I come back out to the Piazza Rotonda, I decide to have my Limoncello there. I always enjoy watching the people. A huge group of students in yellow vests crosses the square, followed by one single chaperone in an orange vest. I can't imagine that such a large group has only one chaperone! Amazing. A school in the US would never allow that. I know in our high school, you have to have at least one chaperone for every ten students. A few minutes later, I have to smile at a couple of ladies in very high heels going by. I figure they can't be Italian, because they are watching the cobblestones very closely! The Italians can race across those cobblestones just as if they were smooth sidewalk. Next there are a few kids running around the fountain playing Hide & Seek. A lively evening in the Piazza Rotonda!
After the concert, I continue north of Piazza Navona to the Palazza Altemps. The entry fee is E10 and includes the Palazzo Massimo alle Terme, which I plan to see later in the week. (It also includes the Diocletian Baths). Lots of classical sculpture, which I enjoy but not as much as some other (Bernini comes to mind). I don't normally do much shopping in museum shops, which may be surprising since I love books, but I decide to take a look. Maybe I need to do this more often. I buy a book, A Journey to Rome, which is one of my favorite souvenirs of all my trips. It is filled with lovely delicate watercolors by Daniele Ohnheiser that each accompany an excerpt from an author's letters, diaries or memoirs about Rome. It includes Dickens, Shelley, Ruskin, Goeth, Stendhal and more. Wonderful!
I wander back through the Piazza Navona and buy a couple scarves from a vendor south of the piazza, then get a gelato and head back to my apartment to put my feet up for a while before dinner. Having read great reviews, I'm going to Al Bric, on Via Pellegrino just off Campo dei Fiori. I was going to have the parrapedelle with wild boar and sausage but change my mind. I start with the Broiled Artichokes with bacon and pecorino cheese, delicious, and then have the Cinghiale with Blueberry Sauce. It's very good, but not quite as good as I had anticipated, so maybe I should have gone with the parrapedelle (the guy next to me had it and raved about it). The other thing about this restaurant is that the house wine was pretty bad (and I'm not that picky, normally I'm fine with the house wine). This was particularly surprising, since Al Bric is also an enoteca. With ½ liter of the house wine, E44.
I head over to the Piazza Navona for my usual Limoncello. The piazza is pretty empty, most artists are gone because it's so cold. On the way back to the apartment, there are a lot of Irish guys celebrating their soccer win. They're having a great time!
The next morning, I walk over to Camp dei Fiori and get a banana from the market for breakfast, then catch the bus to the Vittorio Emanuele II Monument. Naturally, I've seen this many times but have never gone inside. I had read that you only had to go up a couple of flights of stairs to get to the elevator that takes you to the top. I start up the very broad staircase, up up up! One flight of stairs here is equivalent to two or more normal flights. After climbing a couple of flights and seeing more stairs, I stop at that flight and ask a lady how much further it is. Turns out that it will be a lot more stairs! I mention that I have trouble with my knee, and she immediately says to follow her. She takes me over to a small elevator not generally for the public and says I can take that up. Great! I thank her and take this small elevator up to the point where the elevator going to the top starts, which is E7.
Of course, the views from the top are wonderful. Although it's still a chilly day, it's blue skies and sunny. Up on top in the sun, it's actually warm enough to take my jacket off, since I have a sweater underneath. I spend a good amount of time up here just enjoying the various views all around and ask a young Japanese girl to take my picture. Sometimes I'll be somewhere for a couple of days and then realize I don't have any pictures of myself. I like to get at least a few each trip.
On the way down, I go in to the museum and really enjoy this as well. That statue of General Cialdini at the Battle of Castelfidardo in 1859 is quite impressive! I think I walked down a flight or so, then asked about the small elevator, which took me right down to ground level. Very good, as going down stairs is even worse for the arthritis than going up.
I get a spicy salami and mozarella pannini and a bottle of water from one of the vendors right outside (E6) and sit in the sun to eat, then walk around a little past the Forum of Trajan. Later I get a bus up Via Nazionale to go to Castroni's. You could easily spend a fortune here on all kinds of specialty foods. I do find some tuna-stuffed red peppers in a jar that I had bought a couple of years ago in Bologna which are delicious, so I got a jar of those and a couple other things. Then back to the apartment for a while before dinner.
I go over to the Piazza Navona before dinner to see my friend, one of the artists. I usually get a painting on each trip. I love his work, so it isn't hard to find one I want. I tell him it might have to be the last one, because I'm running out of wall space at home! Paintings are among my favorite things to buy, because then you see them every day at home and are reminded of a great trip. I have the most of Rome but also have them from Florence, Venice, the Amalfi Coast and Paris.
Dinner is at one of my favorite places, Hostaria la Romano La Danesina on Via del Governo Vecchio. I especially love their Terrine Pomodoro Bufalo Mozarella, a wonderful, thick homemade tomato soup with thick slices of Buffalo Mozarella floating on top. Mmmm! I start with Bruschetta Pomodoro Basilia and also have Carciofa Giuda, another favorite, along with the soup. With ½ liter of the house wine, E23. It's late and I figure the cafes in the Piazza Navona are probably close to closing, so instead I decide to try the tiny bar right next to my apartment. I'm delighted to find four or five people there singing (Brazilian music), and one is playing the flute. I enjoy my Limoncello while listening. Apparently they just get together there to share their music, it's not a formal concert at all. They are very good, though. I stop to tell them how much I enjoyed it on my way out. The owner tells me to take care, and I say, don't worry, I live right next door. As I unlocked my door, I realized what I had said. I didn't say I was staying next door; I said I live next door! Wishful thinking, I guess.
I got to bed pretty late and was tired, so the next morning I sleep in and am very lazy, then get an early lunch at Lo Zozzone on Via del Teatro Pace. They have a large selection of sandwiches. The one I order has ham, cheese, artichokes and mayonnaise, E3.50. Very good! Then I go over to Via dei Banchi Vecchi to a favorite jewelry shop, Sancesario Emilio. Two brothers and their sister make all the beautiful jewelry. I always check out what's on sale and do get a few things, a bracelet for myself and a couple gifts.
Next, I take the bus to the Palazzo Massimo alle Terme. Lots of Greek and Roman sculpture, including the “woman” lying on her side, but when you go around the other side, you see the sculpture is man and woman combined. Very unusual! I particularly enjoy the wonderful frescoes, as well as the mosaics on the top floor. There's also a very large sculpture of the Goddess Minerva. With my late start and shopping before the museum, it's late afternoon before I'm through, so I take the bus back to my apartment to put my feet up before dinner, as usual.
For dinner I go to La Sagrestia, Via del Seminario, just to the left of the Pantheon if you're facing it. The Bresaola with Rucola and Parmigiana is delicious, as is the Gnocchetti with Mussels & Gorgonzola. With ½ liter of house wine and yummy Panne Cotta for dessert, E40.
When I come back out to the Piazza Rotonda, I decide to have my Limoncello there. I always enjoy watching the people. A huge group of students in yellow vests crosses the square, followed by one single chaperone in an orange vest. I can't imagine that such a large group has only one chaperone! Amazing. A school in the US would never allow that. I know in our high school, you have to have at least one chaperone for every ten students. A few minutes later, I have to smile at a couple of ladies in very high heels going by. I figure they can't be Italian, because they are watching the cobblestones very closely! The Italians can race across those cobblestones just as if they were smooth sidewalk. Next there are a few kids running around the fountain playing Hide & Seek. A lively evening in the Piazza Rotonda!
