A Merry marvelousmouse, and (likely more than one) cup of good cheer!
Jan 3rd, 2018, 01:52 PM
#21
Great reporting! I was born in 1947 and remember rationing, I had the cheese ration instead of the meat ration. I also remember the bomb sites in London. And yes, WWI was a very big deal in Europe - the lost generation.
Jan 3rd, 2018, 02:45 PM
#22
I really wished their cafe served food. They have the space and there really isn’t much nearby. But that appears to be uncommon in Britain- wonder if it’s due to food handling laws (it is in the states) or if it’s just not profitable.>>
I'm pretty certain, MM, that they used to serve food, at least some of them as I have friends who used to run a Youth Hostel and they were always having to get back there in the late afternoon to cook and serve dinner. In fact I just googled our of our local hostels, the one in Penzance, and they offer both breakfast and dinner.
As usual you've seen a lot more of York than I have. I went there to work a few times so I never had enough energy to see anything afterwards, and the only other time i went there with DH we stayed out near the race course and only went into York for a day, seeing the Minster and the Shambles but not a lot else as I recall. So thank you for describing to me what I'm missing!
I'm pretty certain, MM, that they used to serve food, at least some of them as I have friends who used to run a Youth Hostel and they were always having to get back there in the late afternoon to cook and serve dinner. In fact I just googled our of our local hostels, the one in Penzance, and they offer both breakfast and dinner.
As usual you've seen a lot more of York than I have. I went there to work a few times so I never had enough energy to see anything afterwards, and the only other time i went there with DH we stayed out near the race course and only went into York for a day, seeing the Minster and the Shambles but not a lot else as I recall. So thank you for describing to me what I'm missing!
Jan 3rd, 2018, 03:10 PM
#23
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That’s good to know, annhig. Penzance is on my future trip list
They did strangely have food for sale listed- mostly frozen pizza- but said the only option was the vending machine. So maybe it was out, maybe they stock stuff seasonally. They do have a bar that appears to get good business, which is why I was surprised by the lack of food.
They did strangely have food for sale listed- mostly frozen pizza- but said the only option was the vending machine. So maybe it was out, maybe they stock stuff seasonally. They do have a bar that appears to get good business, which is why I was surprised by the lack of food.
Jan 3rd, 2018, 03:27 PM
#24
https://www.yha.org.uk/hostel/penzance
looking at the menu this one seems to be heavy on the pizza as well but it sounds as if other things are available, which is just as well as it's not that close to the centre of town, where there are loads of eating places.
looking at the menu this one seems to be heavy on the pizza as well but it sounds as if other things are available, which is just as well as it's not that close to the centre of town, where there are loads of eating places.
Jan 3rd, 2018, 03:31 PM
#25
Still following along. Isn't the Castle Museum wonderful? I've belonged to it off and on over the years, my last membership ran out in 2016. Just so well done -- and to have it and the Railway museum (plus other good museums and galleries) in the same relatively small town (fewer the 200,000) make York one of the best city stays in the UK.
Jan 28th, 2018, 10:45 PM
#26
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PSA: The punishment trip report will continue until morale improves.
Anyway, yes, Janis, the Castle museum is delightful. It was perhaps a bit of a lackluster trip in some ways, but I had some wonderful luck in terms of museums. The Castle museum, much like the museum I’m discussing next, was one of those places that is clearly loved by its docents and community. I’m a sucker for that kind of museum.
Next stop on for this train: the little town of Barnard Castle. Well, actually, the train doesn’t go all the way. You also need to catch a bus. It truly is rural; if you intend to do Barnard Castle as a day trip, be mindful of when the last bus leaves. Also make sure of what bus you catch. There are two buses that seem to be the same, but one is the scenic route and one is the extra long, extra scenic route. It took me a long time to get to the town because of the latter; it took considerably less time to get back because someone told me about the former.
This is a small but cute place, and the structure pictured above is a market where the townswomen sold their eggs. You can’t tell from the photo, I know, but it’s at the base of the main hill/drag. Why precisely it is placed in the middle of High Street, no one really knows, and reportedly, drivers of lorries have cursed the builder for its placement over the years. I chose the town for its main attraction, but as a matter of fact, it turned out to be one of my favorite stops. It’s a place that does get its share of tourists, but is clearly mostly for the town.
Barnard Castle doesn’t have very many choices in lodging, and I found Newgate House, a well reviewed b&b, that is very close to Bowes Museum. The couple that owned it were very nice, the house is lovely, and the breakfast was a bit more generous than I had expected. She asked what I wanted; I asked what she had, and we agreed that full English and porridge sounded fine. Well, once I had finished the large bowl of porridge, I was thinking twice about the full English! But I drank my tea, nibbled through the rest of the food, and checked out the local history books she had on display.
I ventured forth to the town’s namesake, which is actually in ruins. Barnard Castle has not been very lucky in terms of holding on to their buildings intact. The clerk there was so pleasantly persistent that I found myself hypnotized and handed over the fee to enter and browse through the remains. Well, all right. So I’ll admit it. I don’t know when it will happen, perhaps not for decades, but I have developed a burning desire to spend a summer gallivanting around the British countryside armed with a National Trust membership. All of the properties I visited this trip were unexpected and interesting. In fact, when planning this trip, one of the frustrations I had ran into is that a lot of the quirkier sights are National Trust and open only intermittently in the winter. I had been luck to be in BC on a sunny weekend, and this particular ruin is well marked and has a lot of interesting details as well as a great view of the river.
I then went to the Christmas market at the The Bowes Museum. I had checked it out the night before, and it is more of a local farmers and crafts market than Christmas market. I got to wander around and try samples and talk to several of the vendors. Much like at home, if you can get people talking about the weather, you can get them to talk about anything. The market has a fee for entry, but it’s actually a bargain. The market entree of 5 pounds includes the museum which is normally 12 pounds, I think.
The Bowes Museum was founded by an illegitimate son of the Gentry and his actress mistress that later became his wife. He met her when London’s polite society snubbed him to the point he preferred life in Paris. The museum is their story. Partly literally, because it pays homage to their (long gone) house and lives, but also partly because it’s their child. They couldn’t have children and this museum became their legacy and their obsession. They both died working towards the goal of giving the town its museum. I guess it’s kind of a romantic story, if you love museums.
I feel that I must build up to their piece d’ resistance. So let me tell you about the rest of the collection!
They have a textile collection that is mainly oriented towards the lady’s (no longer existing) jewelry and clothing. She was a Parisian socialite and she spent an absurd amount of money at all the finest tailors and jewelers. Unfortunately, very little of it survived, but (perhaps more usefully) they kept meticulous records, and so the museum knows what she bought and what it cost. I don’t think that it is said explicitly, but I gathered that the museum bankrupted the couple, and her husband likely sold much of her jewelry off in an effort to keep their dream alive. So there are reproduction pieces and some artwork of Josephine. One portrait pictures her with her Labrador, and this is one of the earliest depictions of this breed. I really would have loved to have known Josephine and her husband! Then the bulk of the textile collection is probably pieces that locals have donated. Not anything exquisite, probably, but a decent collection that is very well looked after. This is another museum where the love just shines through.
The exhibit that I really enjoyed and had not expected was the porcelain collection.
Josephine collected like mad in preparation for the museum, and at least one other collection has been added. If you like porcelain, this a worthy stop for that reason alone.
My favorite piece:
(Most likely Meissen. I’m attracted to the unusual Meissen odds and ends).
And now, finally...drum roll please...the main act...James’ Cox most amazing Silver Swan! The Swan is an Automaton, and once upon a time, Cox the clockmaker had a “Museum” in London where people could go and pay to watch his fabulous clockwork creations. The Bowes owns a very small mouse, and then also the Swan. The only surviving piece that comes close to the Swan is Cox’s Peacock in the Hermitage Museum. However, automatons are an old fascination, and often the toys of the very wealthy. The V&A owns the organ automaton Tipoo’s Tiger, and if you enjoy absurdity or possibly the colonized giving their governors the collective finger, you should google it. Now. I’ll wait. *whistles and strolls off to admire the Swan*
Back already? Well, the Bowes’ main claim to fame is that the beloved Swan- quite fittingly the symbol of the museum- plays at 2 pm every day. Yes, that is the only reason I stopped overnight in Barnard Castle. Completely worth it too. Automatons often don’t play on display for conservation reasons. I’ll spare you the pictures, mine don’t do it justice, but it’s even more amazing in person. The Swan essentially moves its neck and bobs for the Silver fish that are jumping out of waves that are created by rotating polished glass rods. Everyday, though, it does something wrong during its performance. Any guesses as to what that is?
Anyway, if you go, keep in mind it is the main attraction. I was there a half hour prior and was lucky enough to get one of the last really good view points.
I had to book it back to the bus station afterwards. I knew I’d be cutting it rather close, but as it happened the bus was very late. Time for a coffee and people watching!
On to Edinburgh!
(I suspect the formatting is off and I’m positive I made spelling errors. Sorry folks. The mobile site is all wonky tonight).
Anyway, yes, Janis, the Castle museum is delightful. It was perhaps a bit of a lackluster trip in some ways, but I had some wonderful luck in terms of museums. The Castle museum, much like the museum I’m discussing next, was one of those places that is clearly loved by its docents and community. I’m a sucker for that kind of museum.
Next stop on for this train: the little town of Barnard Castle. Well, actually, the train doesn’t go all the way. You also need to catch a bus. It truly is rural; if you intend to do Barnard Castle as a day trip, be mindful of when the last bus leaves. Also make sure of what bus you catch. There are two buses that seem to be the same, but one is the scenic route and one is the extra long, extra scenic route. It took me a long time to get to the town because of the latter; it took considerably less time to get back because someone told me about the former.
This is a small but cute place, and the structure pictured above is a market where the townswomen sold their eggs. You can’t tell from the photo, I know, but it’s at the base of the main hill/drag. Why precisely it is placed in the middle of High Street, no one really knows, and reportedly, drivers of lorries have cursed the builder for its placement over the years. I chose the town for its main attraction, but as a matter of fact, it turned out to be one of my favorite stops. It’s a place that does get its share of tourists, but is clearly mostly for the town.
Barnard Castle doesn’t have very many choices in lodging, and I found Newgate House, a well reviewed b&b, that is very close to Bowes Museum. The couple that owned it were very nice, the house is lovely, and the breakfast was a bit more generous than I had expected. She asked what I wanted; I asked what she had, and we agreed that full English and porridge sounded fine. Well, once I had finished the large bowl of porridge, I was thinking twice about the full English! But I drank my tea, nibbled through the rest of the food, and checked out the local history books she had on display.
I ventured forth to the town’s namesake, which is actually in ruins. Barnard Castle has not been very lucky in terms of holding on to their buildings intact. The clerk there was so pleasantly persistent that I found myself hypnotized and handed over the fee to enter and browse through the remains. Well, all right. So I’ll admit it. I don’t know when it will happen, perhaps not for decades, but I have developed a burning desire to spend a summer gallivanting around the British countryside armed with a National Trust membership. All of the properties I visited this trip were unexpected and interesting. In fact, when planning this trip, one of the frustrations I had ran into is that a lot of the quirkier sights are National Trust and open only intermittently in the winter. I had been luck to be in BC on a sunny weekend, and this particular ruin is well marked and has a lot of interesting details as well as a great view of the river.
I then went to the Christmas market at the The Bowes Museum. I had checked it out the night before, and it is more of a local farmers and crafts market than Christmas market. I got to wander around and try samples and talk to several of the vendors. Much like at home, if you can get people talking about the weather, you can get them to talk about anything. The market has a fee for entry, but it’s actually a bargain. The market entree of 5 pounds includes the museum which is normally 12 pounds, I think.
The Bowes Museum was founded by an illegitimate son of the Gentry and his actress mistress that later became his wife. He met her when London’s polite society snubbed him to the point he preferred life in Paris. The museum is their story. Partly literally, because it pays homage to their (long gone) house and lives, but also partly because it’s their child. They couldn’t have children and this museum became their legacy and their obsession. They both died working towards the goal of giving the town its museum. I guess it’s kind of a romantic story, if you love museums.
I feel that I must build up to their piece d’ resistance. So let me tell you about the rest of the collection!
They have a textile collection that is mainly oriented towards the lady’s (no longer existing) jewelry and clothing. She was a Parisian socialite and she spent an absurd amount of money at all the finest tailors and jewelers. Unfortunately, very little of it survived, but (perhaps more usefully) they kept meticulous records, and so the museum knows what she bought and what it cost. I don’t think that it is said explicitly, but I gathered that the museum bankrupted the couple, and her husband likely sold much of her jewelry off in an effort to keep their dream alive. So there are reproduction pieces and some artwork of Josephine. One portrait pictures her with her Labrador, and this is one of the earliest depictions of this breed. I really would have loved to have known Josephine and her husband! Then the bulk of the textile collection is probably pieces that locals have donated. Not anything exquisite, probably, but a decent collection that is very well looked after. This is another museum where the love just shines through.
The exhibit that I really enjoyed and had not expected was the porcelain collection.
Josephine collected like mad in preparation for the museum, and at least one other collection has been added. If you like porcelain, this a worthy stop for that reason alone.
My favorite piece:
(Most likely Meissen. I’m attracted to the unusual Meissen odds and ends).
And now, finally...drum roll please...the main act...James’ Cox most amazing Silver Swan! The Swan is an Automaton, and once upon a time, Cox the clockmaker had a “Museum” in London where people could go and pay to watch his fabulous clockwork creations. The Bowes owns a very small mouse, and then also the Swan. The only surviving piece that comes close to the Swan is Cox’s Peacock in the Hermitage Museum. However, automatons are an old fascination, and often the toys of the very wealthy. The V&A owns the organ automaton Tipoo’s Tiger, and if you enjoy absurdity or possibly the colonized giving their governors the collective finger, you should google it. Now. I’ll wait. *whistles and strolls off to admire the Swan*
Back already? Well, the Bowes’ main claim to fame is that the beloved Swan- quite fittingly the symbol of the museum- plays at 2 pm every day. Yes, that is the only reason I stopped overnight in Barnard Castle. Completely worth it too. Automatons often don’t play on display for conservation reasons. I’ll spare you the pictures, mine don’t do it justice, but it’s even more amazing in person. The Swan essentially moves its neck and bobs for the Silver fish that are jumping out of waves that are created by rotating polished glass rods. Everyday, though, it does something wrong during its performance. Any guesses as to what that is?
Anyway, if you go, keep in mind it is the main attraction. I was there a half hour prior and was lucky enough to get one of the last really good view points.
I had to book it back to the bus station afterwards. I knew I’d be cutting it rather close, but as it happened the bus was very late. Time for a coffee and people watching!
On to Edinburgh!
(I suspect the formatting is off and I’m positive I made spelling errors. Sorry folks. The mobile site is all wonky tonight).
Last edited by marvelousmouse; Jan 28th, 2018 at 10:53 PM.
