A Girlfriend Getaway to Greece - Our Trip Report
Nov 2nd, 2006, 05:56 PM
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A Girlfriend Getaway to Greece - Our Trip Report
After our children were grown, several friends and I decided to leave our spouses, pets, jobs, and other responsibilities for a week each fall and travel to Europe. We consciously choose "less traveled" destinations in the off-season to avoid crowds and to see places we haven't been to previously. Last year 4 of us explored Croatia, this year it was Greece. We love to hike, learn about local history & culture, and sample local cuisine. Fortunately, we're pretty low-maintenance women and manage with just a carry-on suitcase and a modest budget.
Thanks to all of the Fodorites who answered my frequent trip-planning questions. As always, you are my most reliable resources! We made all of our own reservations even though I briefly corresponded with Uli at Dolphin Hellas Travel. I'm just used to doing things myself…
After arriving in Athens, we flew to Crete for 4 days, took the Flying Cat to Santorini for 2 days, and then flew to Athens for a final day of touring. This itinerary worked perfectly since Santorini provided R&R between more hectic touring on Crete and in Athens. We traveled the very last week of October and the weather was sunny and in the low-70's each day. Superb!
We found the Greek people to be exceptionally friendly. Most everyone spoke English and cheerfully tolerated our attempts to speak a little Greek. We had many conversations with waiters and shopkeepers and clearly felt a warm welcome from everyone on Crete and Santorini (Athens is much more impersonal but everyone was pleasant). In turn, we tried to leave a very positive impression of American tourists. We spent a lot of time visiting village churches and an elderly lady gave one of my friends a very animated explanation (in Greek) of how to worship. We were amazed at the gentleness of the many dogs and cats wandering about, especially on Santorini. Hopefully they will be cared for over the winter.
Our only complaint on the trip was the signage, or lack thereof, especially on Crete. Many maps seemed to be works of fiction and street signs were nonexistent or impossible to read. We got lost many times and a less confident driver than my friend would have abandoned the car every day and called a taxi! As many of you have reported, driving is crazy in Greece! Roads are VERY narrow and VERY curvy off the National Road, there are no guardrails next to the 500-foot high cliffs (sometimes there is chicken wire), and drivers tailgate and pass each other constantly. We observed hundreds of shrines along the roadside and alternately said silent prayers for those who perished and made irreverent jokes about "dead tourists" to ease our own anxiety. A local woman told us that sometimes shrines are erected in thanksgiving for miracles (perhaps an accident averted) and that made us feel better. Despite the driving conditions, we were very glad to have a car so we could travel on our own schedule and stop whenever we wished (basically, whenever we saw a church or a scenic overlook). Traffic was never a problem and our designated driver did a wonderful job. We all agreed that the driving experience would have exceedingly more stressful had we been with our husbands (happily, we had no yelling, blaming, or reluctance to ask for directions!).
To be continued…Accommodations, restaurants, & activities on Crete…
Thanks to all of the Fodorites who answered my frequent trip-planning questions. As always, you are my most reliable resources! We made all of our own reservations even though I briefly corresponded with Uli at Dolphin Hellas Travel. I'm just used to doing things myself…
After arriving in Athens, we flew to Crete for 4 days, took the Flying Cat to Santorini for 2 days, and then flew to Athens for a final day of touring. This itinerary worked perfectly since Santorini provided R&R between more hectic touring on Crete and in Athens. We traveled the very last week of October and the weather was sunny and in the low-70's each day. Superb!
We found the Greek people to be exceptionally friendly. Most everyone spoke English and cheerfully tolerated our attempts to speak a little Greek. We had many conversations with waiters and shopkeepers and clearly felt a warm welcome from everyone on Crete and Santorini (Athens is much more impersonal but everyone was pleasant). In turn, we tried to leave a very positive impression of American tourists. We spent a lot of time visiting village churches and an elderly lady gave one of my friends a very animated explanation (in Greek) of how to worship. We were amazed at the gentleness of the many dogs and cats wandering about, especially on Santorini. Hopefully they will be cared for over the winter.
Our only complaint on the trip was the signage, or lack thereof, especially on Crete. Many maps seemed to be works of fiction and street signs were nonexistent or impossible to read. We got lost many times and a less confident driver than my friend would have abandoned the car every day and called a taxi! As many of you have reported, driving is crazy in Greece! Roads are VERY narrow and VERY curvy off the National Road, there are no guardrails next to the 500-foot high cliffs (sometimes there is chicken wire), and drivers tailgate and pass each other constantly. We observed hundreds of shrines along the roadside and alternately said silent prayers for those who perished and made irreverent jokes about "dead tourists" to ease our own anxiety. A local woman told us that sometimes shrines are erected in thanksgiving for miracles (perhaps an accident averted) and that made us feel better. Despite the driving conditions, we were very glad to have a car so we could travel on our own schedule and stop whenever we wished (basically, whenever we saw a church or a scenic overlook). Traffic was never a problem and our designated driver did a wonderful job. We all agreed that the driving experience would have exceedingly more stressful had we been with our husbands (happily, we had no yelling, blaming, or reluctance to ask for directions!).
To be continued…Accommodations, restaurants, & activities on Crete…
Nov 3rd, 2006, 10:48 AM
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thank you so much for starting this report. I have wanted to have a girlfriend to Greece for so long. I was worried about coming across stray animals which I heard are not treated well in Greece and this gives me concern about visiting.
Nov 3rd, 2006, 10:58 AM
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LowCountryIslander,
It seems as though we are following each other around Europe....didn't you travel to Croatia in Sept/Oct? We got back from Croatia in early October and now were planning on Greece next September as well!
It seems as though we are following each other around Europe....didn't you travel to Croatia in Sept/Oct? We got back from Croatia in early October and now were planning on Greece next September as well!
Nov 3rd, 2006, 12:10 PM
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Hi dixieland....
You are correct!
When I say your posting on another Greece thread I thought the say thing!
Yes, I was in Croatia at the end of September, got home and less than a month later have started my September 2007 trip (Turkey and Greece) planning...it's a "disease" with me!
Now I have to get my nerve up to post my Croatia trip report, that first one seems so daunting!
Sorry Lina for hi-jacking your trip report...Please continue!
You are correct!
When I say your posting on another Greece thread I thought the say thing!
Yes, I was in Croatia at the end of September, got home and less than a month later have started my September 2007 trip (Turkey and Greece) planning...it's a "disease" with me!
Now I have to get my nerve up to post my Croatia trip report, that first one seems so daunting!
Sorry Lina for hi-jacking your trip report...Please continue!
Nov 3rd, 2006, 01:37 PM
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Chania, Crete:
Our flight from Athens to Chania on Aegean Airways went smoothly. It only took the pilot two attempts before he stuck the landing (no kidding). We had a car reserved through www.economycarrentals.com, which is a broker service, and picked it up at Europcar. A stationwagon (hatchback, really) was just the right size for the 4 of us and our 4 small suitcases.
We liked the old part of Chania very much. Personally, I would never stay in one of the resorts in the outskirts. Being the end of tourist season, we had the old town practically to ourselves and it was lovely. The dogs roaming around were very sweet and never begged at the sidewalk cafes. Since I missed my pup back home, it was nice to have a dog sleep at our feet at dinnertime.
Hotels: After getting VERY lost, we finally found Pandora Suites Hotel on Lithinon Street. The exterior is not well marked. Unfortunately the 2BR suite was very disappointing and we decided to move to Casa Delfino. Before we left, though, we viewed a nice double room with a magnificent view over the harbor, so I wouldn't rule out staying at Pandora if that's all you need. The 2BR suite was just too stark and had no space for the 4 of us to gather and relax. Our 3-level suite at Casa Delfino was much nicer and included 2 full baths. It was well worth 100 euros extra per night. The staff was fantastic and the breakfast was excellent. Casa Delfino is also located in a lovely part of the old town.
Restaurants: Our favorite restaurant was Tamam and we ate there twice. There seemed to be a nice mix or tourists and (mostly) locals. We had their spinach & cheese pies, grilled feta, Greek salad, layered eggplant, chicken kebab, lamb w/yogurt, moussaka, and house white wine. Excellent! We also ate at Ela once. It was good, but not as good as Tamam, and seemed to cater more to tourists. Sadly, the canvas cover is drawn over the restaurant in the evening so you can't enjoy the open air (there is no roof). The veal stew and mixed vegetable platters were good, and their spinach and cheese pies were excellent. All restaurants gave us raki (jet fuel) and a complimentary dessert (OH! The yogurt with cherry preserves at Ela was soooooooo good!).
One evening we walked all around the harbor to the lighthouse. It was blocked for repairs at the end but we got around it to take some spectacular pictures. There is a bar/taverna on that jetty and we had a glass of wine up on the roof and sat there until after sunset.
Activities: We toured the monasteries on the Akrotiri peninsula and west to Elafonisi beach, stopping at many churches, the caves near Topolia, and Moni Hrissosklaitissa (a gorgeous monastery on the coast) on the way. Those of us that had bathing suits went swimming at the beach and the others enjoyed the tide pools and rocky shore (very reminiscent of the volcanic beaches on the Big Island in Hawaii). The beach is not very developed and there are no shops or eating places (maybe one snack bar).
Another day we drove to Imbros and hiked the gorge since the Samaria Gorge was closed. We were so concerned about our footing on the rocky path that we were looking down the whole time and missed the second sign on the path pointing to the gorge. So, uphill we went to a cell phone tower! We got nice aerial photos of the area and a good cardiovascular workout, but lost an hour to this little adventure. I can hear the blonde jokes now, but we really did think that the path was going to head downhill any minute! The Imbros Gorge was spectacular and took us about 2 hours to complete. The Imbros was a highlight of our visit to Crete and I recommend it to everyone who is reasonably fit (the entire path is very rocky). Unless the Samaria is dramatically different, I don't see the need to hike an additional several hours for more of the same. We passed other hikers but often didn't see another soul for long stretches. At the bottom, we took a taxi back to Imbros. Well, it was actually a pick up truck and three of my friends sat on wooden planks in the open bed of the truck (I was too chicken) as we careened around the hairpin turns heading back north. I counted 8 shrines on that stretch, but we made it safe and sound.
We were told that there were "cute villages" throughout western Crete and were expecting something akin to Tuscan "cute villages" but that was not the case. The only village we visited that truly had charm was Vamos (east of Chania). The stone buildings in the very old part of town are in the process of being restored, the streets are very narrow, and beautiful gardens abound. However, we saw many interesting places and got a sense of how locals live. The terrain varied dramatically from rocky mountains to terraced hills to flat farmland. Near Elafonisi there are dozens of huge greenhouses but we never determined what was grown there.
Coming next: Heraklion & Knossos
(I didn't intend to be so wordy…this report will be longer than I intended!)
Our flight from Athens to Chania on Aegean Airways went smoothly. It only took the pilot two attempts before he stuck the landing (no kidding). We had a car reserved through www.economycarrentals.com, which is a broker service, and picked it up at Europcar. A stationwagon (hatchback, really) was just the right size for the 4 of us and our 4 small suitcases.
We liked the old part of Chania very much. Personally, I would never stay in one of the resorts in the outskirts. Being the end of tourist season, we had the old town practically to ourselves and it was lovely. The dogs roaming around were very sweet and never begged at the sidewalk cafes. Since I missed my pup back home, it was nice to have a dog sleep at our feet at dinnertime.
Hotels: After getting VERY lost, we finally found Pandora Suites Hotel on Lithinon Street. The exterior is not well marked. Unfortunately the 2BR suite was very disappointing and we decided to move to Casa Delfino. Before we left, though, we viewed a nice double room with a magnificent view over the harbor, so I wouldn't rule out staying at Pandora if that's all you need. The 2BR suite was just too stark and had no space for the 4 of us to gather and relax. Our 3-level suite at Casa Delfino was much nicer and included 2 full baths. It was well worth 100 euros extra per night. The staff was fantastic and the breakfast was excellent. Casa Delfino is also located in a lovely part of the old town.
Restaurants: Our favorite restaurant was Tamam and we ate there twice. There seemed to be a nice mix or tourists and (mostly) locals. We had their spinach & cheese pies, grilled feta, Greek salad, layered eggplant, chicken kebab, lamb w/yogurt, moussaka, and house white wine. Excellent! We also ate at Ela once. It was good, but not as good as Tamam, and seemed to cater more to tourists. Sadly, the canvas cover is drawn over the restaurant in the evening so you can't enjoy the open air (there is no roof). The veal stew and mixed vegetable platters were good, and their spinach and cheese pies were excellent. All restaurants gave us raki (jet fuel) and a complimentary dessert (OH! The yogurt with cherry preserves at Ela was soooooooo good!).
One evening we walked all around the harbor to the lighthouse. It was blocked for repairs at the end but we got around it to take some spectacular pictures. There is a bar/taverna on that jetty and we had a glass of wine up on the roof and sat there until after sunset.
Activities: We toured the monasteries on the Akrotiri peninsula and west to Elafonisi beach, stopping at many churches, the caves near Topolia, and Moni Hrissosklaitissa (a gorgeous monastery on the coast) on the way. Those of us that had bathing suits went swimming at the beach and the others enjoyed the tide pools and rocky shore (very reminiscent of the volcanic beaches on the Big Island in Hawaii). The beach is not very developed and there are no shops or eating places (maybe one snack bar).
Another day we drove to Imbros and hiked the gorge since the Samaria Gorge was closed. We were so concerned about our footing on the rocky path that we were looking down the whole time and missed the second sign on the path pointing to the gorge. So, uphill we went to a cell phone tower! We got nice aerial photos of the area and a good cardiovascular workout, but lost an hour to this little adventure. I can hear the blonde jokes now, but we really did think that the path was going to head downhill any minute! The Imbros Gorge was spectacular and took us about 2 hours to complete. The Imbros was a highlight of our visit to Crete and I recommend it to everyone who is reasonably fit (the entire path is very rocky). Unless the Samaria is dramatically different, I don't see the need to hike an additional several hours for more of the same. We passed other hikers but often didn't see another soul for long stretches. At the bottom, we took a taxi back to Imbros. Well, it was actually a pick up truck and three of my friends sat on wooden planks in the open bed of the truck (I was too chicken) as we careened around the hairpin turns heading back north. I counted 8 shrines on that stretch, but we made it safe and sound.
We were told that there were "cute villages" throughout western Crete and were expecting something akin to Tuscan "cute villages" but that was not the case. The only village we visited that truly had charm was Vamos (east of Chania). The stone buildings in the very old part of town are in the process of being restored, the streets are very narrow, and beautiful gardens abound. However, we saw many interesting places and got a sense of how locals live. The terrain varied dramatically from rocky mountains to terraced hills to flat farmland. Near Elafonisi there are dozens of huge greenhouses but we never determined what was grown there.
Coming next: Heraklion & Knossos
(I didn't intend to be so wordy…this report will be longer than I intended!)
Nov 4th, 2006, 01:16 PM
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seeall: I really liked the order of our trip. If you visit Crete in the summer, you would definitely want more time to spend on the beaches. We only saw the western side but did a lot of driving since you often "can't get there from here" and have to go back up to the National Road or a junction somewhere. We saw the highlights of western Crete in 3 1/2 days, but you could easily spend a week on the island.
How much time you spend on Santorini depends on the type of vacation you're taking (sightseeing vs. relaxing). Two days is minimum.
We saw all of the Acropolis, Agora, and surrounding areas in one full day in Athens. I would like to see other areas of mainland Greece, but probably wouldn't spend more time in Athens.
That's just my opinion!
How much time you spend on Santorini depends on the type of vacation you're taking (sightseeing vs. relaxing). Two days is minimum.
We saw all of the Acropolis, Agora, and surrounding areas in one full day in Athens. I would like to see other areas of mainland Greece, but probably wouldn't spend more time in Athens.
That's just my opinion!
Nov 4th, 2006, 01:21 PM
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Heraklion & Knossos:
I was prepared to dislike Heraklion, based on tour books and many posts on this forum. However, for the time we were there (1 night) it was very nice.
We stopped at Knossos on the way to Heraklion. It was not as restored as I expected (after reading about the controversy with Sir Arthur Evans, I guess I expected a Disney-ish feel). There are good displays and descriptions in every area, but a live guide would probably have been worthwhile. We weren't opposed to hiring a guide, but the way they "assault" you at the gate was a big turn-off. We were simply amazed at the history and age that the ruins represented. The Heraklion Museum was closed by the time we reached town.
Fortunately, finding our way into Heraklion was much easier than in Chania! We stayed at the Lato Boutique Hotel which was visible from the harbor area, so it just took some winding around to reach the entrance. We did find ourselves facing two dozen very large, blue busses at the bus depot at the harbor (we were going in the wrong direction), but a little James Bond-ish driving fixed that. The Lato was fine…the furniture and bedding could have used an update but the location and terraces facing the harbor were ideal. The hotel smells very smoky and only has a teeny tiny elevator, but serves a very nice breakfast. We left our car parked in front of the hotel for Europcar to pick up.
We walked along the harbor and out on the pier to the old castle and beyond. It's longer than it looks! We sat at the end with many locals and chatted while we watched the water and the harbor activity. After walking along the pedestrian-only section and doing a little shopping, we at Tazarkis (?), which was recommended by the Lato receptionist. It is immediately behind a tiny church. Dinner was excellent: stuffed mushrooms, stuffed red peppers with cheese, lamb kebab (actually ground lamb on a skewer), grilled octopus, seafood risotto, and plenty of "wine from the barrel" (house wine).
After breakfast the next morning, we took a 5-minute cab ride to the Flying Cat hydrofoil. Our driver was delightful and told us about his travels to the U.S. to perform at Greek festivals. Turns out he was a dancer but we didn't have time for lessons! We had business class seats on the Flying Cat and they were very comfortable. The ride was smooth and the view approaching Santorini was AMAZING!
Coming next: Santorini
I was prepared to dislike Heraklion, based on tour books and many posts on this forum. However, for the time we were there (1 night) it was very nice.
We stopped at Knossos on the way to Heraklion. It was not as restored as I expected (after reading about the controversy with Sir Arthur Evans, I guess I expected a Disney-ish feel). There are good displays and descriptions in every area, but a live guide would probably have been worthwhile. We weren't opposed to hiring a guide, but the way they "assault" you at the gate was a big turn-off. We were simply amazed at the history and age that the ruins represented. The Heraklion Museum was closed by the time we reached town.
Fortunately, finding our way into Heraklion was much easier than in Chania! We stayed at the Lato Boutique Hotel which was visible from the harbor area, so it just took some winding around to reach the entrance. We did find ourselves facing two dozen very large, blue busses at the bus depot at the harbor (we were going in the wrong direction), but a little James Bond-ish driving fixed that. The Lato was fine…the furniture and bedding could have used an update but the location and terraces facing the harbor were ideal. The hotel smells very smoky and only has a teeny tiny elevator, but serves a very nice breakfast. We left our car parked in front of the hotel for Europcar to pick up.
We walked along the harbor and out on the pier to the old castle and beyond. It's longer than it looks! We sat at the end with many locals and chatted while we watched the water and the harbor activity. After walking along the pedestrian-only section and doing a little shopping, we at Tazarkis (?), which was recommended by the Lato receptionist. It is immediately behind a tiny church. Dinner was excellent: stuffed mushrooms, stuffed red peppers with cheese, lamb kebab (actually ground lamb on a skewer), grilled octopus, seafood risotto, and plenty of "wine from the barrel" (house wine).
After breakfast the next morning, we took a 5-minute cab ride to the Flying Cat hydrofoil. Our driver was delightful and told us about his travels to the U.S. to perform at Greek festivals. Turns out he was a dancer but we didn't have time for lessons! We had business class seats on the Flying Cat and they were very comfortable. The ride was smooth and the view approaching Santorini was AMAZING!
Coming next: Santorini
Nov 5th, 2006, 09:43 AM
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Congratulations Lina, it sounds as if you did your "homework" before going to Western Crete, and I agree with many of your assessments including Imbros Gorge.
I agree Casa Delfino is in the nicest part of Chania, also most convenient -- fortunately for us budgeteers, there are many lodgings just a few steps down the no-cars street (Theotokopoulos) which are quite nice and not as pricey.
REading your right-on opinions, I look forward to hearing what you thought of Santorini.
I agree Casa Delfino is in the nicest part of Chania, also most convenient -- fortunately for us budgeteers, there are many lodgings just a few steps down the no-cars street (Theotokopoulos) which are quite nice and not as pricey.
REading your right-on opinions, I look forward to hearing what you thought of Santorini.
Nov 7th, 2006, 03:56 PM
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We arrived in Santorini without any reservations since the ferry was dependent on good weather and we didn't want to lose our deposits in case we didn't make it. The travel gods were looking out for us, however, so the weather was clear and the seas were calm.
Upon arrival, we approached several car rental agents to negotiate a 30-hour rental. Each place only had a few vehicles (since it was late October) so we were competing with other travelers doing the same thing, but we did get a good price (45euros). After driving in Crete, the roads in Santorini were not intimidating at all! We briefly stopped in Fira to sign the car rental papers but couldn't wait to get out of town. Too busy, too many people, too many souvenir shops…
Our first stop was to photograph yet another church and have a beer on Dana Villas' terrace in Firastefani, one of the few places open. We couldn't get over the beautiful view of the caldera…you have to see it to believe it! It was hard to figure out how to get into the village of Oia because from the road there is just a series of parking lots. We finally picked one and walked into the pedestrian-only section. A few busloads of older Americans were in town so it was a bit crowded in the streets. Several times we said, "If it's like this in October, what must it be like in July?"
It didn't take long to fall in love with Oia…we loved the landscape of homes perched on the hillside, the winding streets, nooks & crannies, steps (yes, we loved the steps!), flower boxes, painted doors, little shops, and dogs wandering around. After the busloads of people left, the city was virtually empty and we were the only patrons in most stores. After viewing several other properties, we finally found Lava Oia and Mrs. Petridou, with whom I had corresponded prior to the trip. We didn't have a reservation but she had an apartment that would accommodate four of us. It turned out to be perfect and I would highly recommend her lodgings. She is a LOVELY woman and very hospitable. Our 2BR cave house was plain but clean and comfortable. It also had more windows than some other properties. The terrace had a magnificent view and was roomy enough for the 4 of us, a dog, and 5 cats! Lava Oia is close to a market where we bought beer & wine, cheese, yogurt, fruit, and other snacks. Two bakeries were nearby for breakfast items.
We had dinner that night at Katina's Fish Taverna down on Ammoudi Beach and watched the sunset. It was nice to have a different perspective of the caldera. Dinner was good (fried melted tomatoes, fried eggplant, sea bass, grilled octopus, mussels, and more "wine from the barrel" but not the best we had. We enjoyed our waiter, Benny, and all the dogs that patrolled the waterfront. The next day we ate a late lunch at Skala and had stuffed mushrooms, tzatziki, vegetables stuffed with rice & spearmint, and baked eggplant with feta and tomatoes. It was an exceptional meal with a view to match.
Sadly, we only spent one night and two days on Santorini but it was enough time to explore most of Oia, take at least 100 photos, do some power shopping (including nice jewelry from Oro), and lounge on our terrace, soaking up the sun and the view for many hours. It is definitely a place I'd like to return to with my husband. The combination of mountains and water will win my heart every time, but Santorini is truly one of the most beautiful places I've been.
At the end of the day, we drove along the back side of the island to get back to Fira and drop off our car. After some photos from the top of the funicular, we headed to the airport and Athens.
Someone asked about the dogs…we found that most of the dogs in Oia wore collars and appeared to be pets. They were called by name by the shopkeepers as they wandered in and out of the stores and we saw food put out for them. They appeared healthier than on Crete and were quite a sight as they sunned themselves on the rooftops or ledges. One pup made himself very comfortable in the corner of our terrace. They were very, very gentle and not a nuisance at all (but dodging their poop is!) Our waiter at Katina's said that he would take his dog with him when he left during the winter season, so I can only hope that the others are cared for as well.
Coming up: Athens
Upon arrival, we approached several car rental agents to negotiate a 30-hour rental. Each place only had a few vehicles (since it was late October) so we were competing with other travelers doing the same thing, but we did get a good price (45euros). After driving in Crete, the roads in Santorini were not intimidating at all! We briefly stopped in Fira to sign the car rental papers but couldn't wait to get out of town. Too busy, too many people, too many souvenir shops…
Our first stop was to photograph yet another church and have a beer on Dana Villas' terrace in Firastefani, one of the few places open. We couldn't get over the beautiful view of the caldera…you have to see it to believe it! It was hard to figure out how to get into the village of Oia because from the road there is just a series of parking lots. We finally picked one and walked into the pedestrian-only section. A few busloads of older Americans were in town so it was a bit crowded in the streets. Several times we said, "If it's like this in October, what must it be like in July?"
It didn't take long to fall in love with Oia…we loved the landscape of homes perched on the hillside, the winding streets, nooks & crannies, steps (yes, we loved the steps!), flower boxes, painted doors, little shops, and dogs wandering around. After the busloads of people left, the city was virtually empty and we were the only patrons in most stores. After viewing several other properties, we finally found Lava Oia and Mrs. Petridou, with whom I had corresponded prior to the trip. We didn't have a reservation but she had an apartment that would accommodate four of us. It turned out to be perfect and I would highly recommend her lodgings. She is a LOVELY woman and very hospitable. Our 2BR cave house was plain but clean and comfortable. It also had more windows than some other properties. The terrace had a magnificent view and was roomy enough for the 4 of us, a dog, and 5 cats! Lava Oia is close to a market where we bought beer & wine, cheese, yogurt, fruit, and other snacks. Two bakeries were nearby for breakfast items.
We had dinner that night at Katina's Fish Taverna down on Ammoudi Beach and watched the sunset. It was nice to have a different perspective of the caldera. Dinner was good (fried melted tomatoes, fried eggplant, sea bass, grilled octopus, mussels, and more "wine from the barrel"
but not the best we had. We enjoyed our waiter, Benny, and all the dogs that patrolled the waterfront. The next day we ate a late lunch at Skala and had stuffed mushrooms, tzatziki, vegetables stuffed with rice & spearmint, and baked eggplant with feta and tomatoes. It was an exceptional meal with a view to match.Sadly, we only spent one night and two days on Santorini but it was enough time to explore most of Oia, take at least 100 photos, do some power shopping (including nice jewelry from Oro), and lounge on our terrace, soaking up the sun and the view for many hours. It is definitely a place I'd like to return to with my husband. The combination of mountains and water will win my heart every time, but Santorini is truly one of the most beautiful places I've been.
At the end of the day, we drove along the back side of the island to get back to Fira and drop off our car. After some photos from the top of the funicular, we headed to the airport and Athens.
Someone asked about the dogs…we found that most of the dogs in Oia wore collars and appeared to be pets. They were called by name by the shopkeepers as they wandered in and out of the stores and we saw food put out for them. They appeared healthier than on Crete and were quite a sight as they sunned themselves on the rooftops or ledges. One pup made himself very comfortable in the corner of our terrace. They were very, very gentle and not a nuisance at all (but dodging their poop is!) Our waiter at Katina's said that he would take his dog with him when he left during the winter season, so I can only hope that the others are cared for as well.
Coming up: Athens
Nov 7th, 2006, 05:54 PM
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Hi Lina,
I enjoyed reading your report and very excited to go to Santorini. We will be there on April 3, 2007 for 3 nights, considering is not the best season to be there,
1) Do you think I should change it to 4 nights and stay 1 less day in Crete or leave it the way it is?
2)Is it possible to have info on the apt you stayed in, how much did pay(if you don't mind)we are also 4 people. I was thinking about getting two double rooms. Any suggestions for hotels that seemed very nice out there. How you looked at everything and enjoyed things as said in your report are the same things I would love to experience during my visit.
I enjoyed reading your report and very excited to go to Santorini. We will be there on April 3, 2007 for 3 nights, considering is not the best season to be there,
1) Do you think I should change it to 4 nights and stay 1 less day in Crete or leave it the way it is?
2)Is it possible to have info on the apt you stayed in, how much did pay(if you don't mind)we are also 4 people. I was thinking about getting two double rooms. Any suggestions for hotels that seemed very nice out there. How you looked at everything and enjoyed things as said in your report are the same things I would love to experience during my visit.
Nov 7th, 2006, 06:31 PM
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seeall: someone else may be able to advise you better than I can about your trip. You should probably find out when shops and restaurants open up again in Oia in the spring. We were told that by Nov. 1 everything but a few markets would be closed...the shoulder season is great, but the off-season sounds dead. There is definitely more to do on Crete and it is not as weather dependent either. We were lucky to have temps in the low 70's every day with brilliant sunshine, but I think poor weather would be better tolerated on Crete than on Santorini.
SeaUrchin: I agree that witnessing the mistreatment of animals would ruin my vacation. There may be visitors to Greece that are put off by the roaming dogs, but we were not (and my friends are not all animal lovers!). Hopefully they are cared for in the off-season.
SeaUrchin: I agree that witnessing the mistreatment of animals would ruin my vacation. There may be visitors to Greece that are put off by the roaming dogs, but we were not (and my friends are not all animal lovers!). Hopefully they are cared for in the off-season.
