A fresh look at Naples, Italy.
May 29th, 2004, 08:59 AM
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A fresh look at Naples, Italy.
I hadn't been to Naples in about 7 years or so, and I only spent a day there then. I rembered it as many have described it -- a big, loud, ugly, dirty, congested city. Since we were flying Easy Jet into Naples from London to head out to Ischia a few days, we spent two nights there this week. First of all, let me say I think we picked the perfect hotel for us. We booked a Mercure Hotel (the Angioini) for its location. We arrived in Naples about 8:30 PM and after getting our luggage took the airport bus to Piazza Municipio. The bus costs 3€ each (hey, how neat that this Italian computer has a € symbol I can use). Just before coming to the stop at Municipio, we passed our hotel, so it was a one block walk back to it, easily rolling our luggage -- no need to worry about dealing with the notorious Naples taxi drivers. When we left for Ischia this morning, we rolled our luggage about a block and a half to the port where we caught the boat to the island. What great convenience coming and going!
After our arrival (it was now after 10 PM) we stepped next door to Osteria Antonio where we sat at one of the six tables outside and had wonderful, cheap dinners of pasta and veal dishes.
Our main goal staying in Naples was to see the Archeology Museum, which we walked to yesterday morning, arriving about 10:00. When I walked up to the counter to buy our tickets, for some strange reason the man handed me two and said, "free". I have no idea why, because everyone else seemed to be paying. We booked a free reservation for the "pornographic" secret cabinet about a half hour later, which worked perfectly. Much of the museum was closed and being renovated, which is probably a good thing. There was still enough to overwhelm us -- particularly the Pompeii stuff. I remain unclear if it would normally make more sense to see the museum before going to Pompeii, or the other way around.
We spent the whole rest of the day (we were at the museum until just after noon) walking!! First we wandered the "market" area, found a typical small pizza shop where we had two wonderful pizzas and a pitcher of good house red for a total of 12€. From there we took a funicular to the top of the "mountain" and walked about five miles or so through that lovely upper area of Naples, the gardens where the ceramic museum is (which we passed on), and all the way down and out to Molo Beverello. From there we walked along the coast all the way back into town. Had a great dinner in the evening at Cero, (behind the opera house and Palazza Real) which we expected to be very touristy, but surprise we were the only Americans there. All the others were Italian, including a group of 20 youngish tour representatives, half male, half female, all beautifully dressed in what looked like Prada suits, the men with yellow ties, the girls with yellow scarfs. They proceeded to have an incredibly wonderful and loud time, and their enthusiasm rubbed off on us. We put ourselves in the hands of our waiter, who first disappointed me when he couldn't produce the 28€ bottle of Sicilian Donna Fugato Tancredi I ordered, but instead recommended a local full bodied wine for 14€ which was great. We said we only wanted pastas and a meat, so he brought us two unusual and wonderful pasta dishes -- one was ziti with what seemed to be only carmelized onions, hunks of veal, and white wine. The other was a rigatoni with tomatoes and bits of veal sausage (?) with lots of fresh basil. Also had a veal chop covered with roasted tomatoes, slim whole green peppers, and lots of mushrooms, and a veal scallopine topped with fresh mozzerella and tomatoes. Lee indulged in dessert of a huge goblet of tiny fresh strawberries. The waiter asked him if he wanted lemon sorbet or vanilla ice cream on top, and when he hesitated, the waiter said, "never mind, I'll bring you both", which he did. What an amazing meal for a grand total of 61€!
But as usual, food has made me digress! What I meant to mention here was that yes, the city is still dirty (I've never seen so much trash in the streets anywhere else in the world), coupled with the entire city being torn up with construction, mainly for the new Metro lines. It is of course, loud and congested with the traffic, especially all those motorcycles or vespas. But we found it amazingly friendly. We couldn't have had nicer or friendlier service at the three restaurants we went to. And our hotel was great -- very nice room and bath and a tremendous breakfast buffet, including a huge pastry table, big bowl of fresh strawberries in addition to the other fruit, eggs scrambled with cheese, and of course the usual meats and cheeses as well as fresh mozzerella, tomatoes, and a variety of other things. The hotel was 138€ a night with breakfast (special internet deal, two in a double for the normal price of a single). Our room actually had a king bed as well as a twin and a long wall of dresser and storage space.
Anyway, our stay in Naples originally planned as just a necessary stop, became a great two night break!
After our arrival (it was now after 10 PM) we stepped next door to Osteria Antonio where we sat at one of the six tables outside and had wonderful, cheap dinners of pasta and veal dishes.
Our main goal staying in Naples was to see the Archeology Museum, which we walked to yesterday morning, arriving about 10:00. When I walked up to the counter to buy our tickets, for some strange reason the man handed me two and said, "free". I have no idea why, because everyone else seemed to be paying. We booked a free reservation for the "pornographic" secret cabinet about a half hour later, which worked perfectly. Much of the museum was closed and being renovated, which is probably a good thing. There was still enough to overwhelm us -- particularly the Pompeii stuff. I remain unclear if it would normally make more sense to see the museum before going to Pompeii, or the other way around.
We spent the whole rest of the day (we were at the museum until just after noon) walking!! First we wandered the "market" area, found a typical small pizza shop where we had two wonderful pizzas and a pitcher of good house red for a total of 12€. From there we took a funicular to the top of the "mountain" and walked about five miles or so through that lovely upper area of Naples, the gardens where the ceramic museum is (which we passed on), and all the way down and out to Molo Beverello. From there we walked along the coast all the way back into town. Had a great dinner in the evening at Cero, (behind the opera house and Palazza Real) which we expected to be very touristy, but surprise we were the only Americans there. All the others were Italian, including a group of 20 youngish tour representatives, half male, half female, all beautifully dressed in what looked like Prada suits, the men with yellow ties, the girls with yellow scarfs. They proceeded to have an incredibly wonderful and loud time, and their enthusiasm rubbed off on us. We put ourselves in the hands of our waiter, who first disappointed me when he couldn't produce the 28€ bottle of Sicilian Donna Fugato Tancredi I ordered, but instead recommended a local full bodied wine for 14€ which was great. We said we only wanted pastas and a meat, so he brought us two unusual and wonderful pasta dishes -- one was ziti with what seemed to be only carmelized onions, hunks of veal, and white wine. The other was a rigatoni with tomatoes and bits of veal sausage (?) with lots of fresh basil. Also had a veal chop covered with roasted tomatoes, slim whole green peppers, and lots of mushrooms, and a veal scallopine topped with fresh mozzerella and tomatoes. Lee indulged in dessert of a huge goblet of tiny fresh strawberries. The waiter asked him if he wanted lemon sorbet or vanilla ice cream on top, and when he hesitated, the waiter said, "never mind, I'll bring you both", which he did. What an amazing meal for a grand total of 61€!
But as usual, food has made me digress! What I meant to mention here was that yes, the city is still dirty (I've never seen so much trash in the streets anywhere else in the world), coupled with the entire city being torn up with construction, mainly for the new Metro lines. It is of course, loud and congested with the traffic, especially all those motorcycles or vespas. But we found it amazingly friendly. We couldn't have had nicer or friendlier service at the three restaurants we went to. And our hotel was great -- very nice room and bath and a tremendous breakfast buffet, including a huge pastry table, big bowl of fresh strawberries in addition to the other fruit, eggs scrambled with cheese, and of course the usual meats and cheeses as well as fresh mozzerella, tomatoes, and a variety of other things. The hotel was 138€ a night with breakfast (special internet deal, two in a double for the normal price of a single). Our room actually had a king bed as well as a twin and a long wall of dresser and storage space.
Anyway, our stay in Naples originally planned as just a necessary stop, became a great two night break!
May 29th, 2004, 09:44 AM
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Patrick, thanks for taking the time to post a message. I enjoyed reading your interesting and positive report about Naples. We will consider taking a day trip there from Sorrento when we go in July. Other than being at the train station on one visit and at the airport on another, we really didn't see much of Naples although my mother really wanted to go back to Mergellina which I think is near Naples and Torre del Greco where she was born. The last time we were in Italy, our son got the chance to visit Naples with our cousins who live in Ercolano - he said it was crazy, crowded and busy but he loved it! Please tell us about Ischia when you get a chance.
It sounds as if you are having a great time!
It sounds as if you are having a great time!
May 29th, 2004, 12:00 PM
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We were in Sorrento a couple of weeks ago and spent a day in Naples with my two teenagers. We saw the museum and then just walked around. I was actually trying to find the Capella San Servo (sorry about spelling) and was so close many times I'm sure, but had to give up never finding it. We got totally lost, wandering through many colorful back alleys with charming shops and nobody speaking any English and never at all felt in any danger or threatened.
I did get robbed by the taxi driver who did not turn on the meter and charged 12 E for a 5 minute ride to the train station. But considering we were totally lost and were ready to go home, kind of a small price to pay.
Joelle
I did get robbed by the taxi driver who did not turn on the meter and charged 12 E for a 5 minute ride to the train station. But considering we were totally lost and were ready to go home, kind of a small price to pay.
Joelle
May 29th, 2004, 08:58 PM
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Thanks for reporting, Patrick.
Naples does seem to have had a bad reputation as an undesirable place to visit.
I know I had been hesitant to go there because of stories about crime, dirt, etc.
We've decided to give it a try partly because of Ira's trip report, and because we want to visit the Archeological Museum before visiting Pompeii; so we're going in September.
Your report is reassuring that it will hopefully be a positive experience.
Naples does seem to have had a bad reputation as an undesirable place to visit.
I know I had been hesitant to go there because of stories about crime, dirt, etc.
We've decided to give it a try partly because of Ira's trip report, and because we want to visit the Archeological Museum before visiting Pompeii; so we're going in September.
Your report is reassuring that it will hopefully be a positive experience.
May 29th, 2004, 11:13 PM
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Patrick, thanks for the post, providing a fresh look indeed. True enough, Naples is very dirty with both the streets and trash barrels overflowing with trash (I wonder why they don't have a trash pick up daily in that city?!). It is a pity that the residents don't take pride in their city in that regard but they certainly make up that lack with their vitality and life -- something that I have not been able to find in any other Italian city. And yes, some of the best food and cheapest prices in Italy too! However, despite all that, it is a city to be cautious about - I was there 9 months ago and was robbed on the #204 bus in front of the Piazza Garibaldi and Naples train station - having just returned from the Archaeological Museum. Needless to say, I am a bit timid about Naples now and frankly, nervous to go back. However, I have learned to hide my money somewhere on me (in my clothes) and not take a bus if I can help it! I am going back to the south in 3 months (staying in Sorrento this time!) and will venture back to Naples to visit my friends in the lovely Vomero area (the "mountain" area you described!) and also in Posillipo. Naples is an experience that one never forgets and it is a city that can be enjoyed -- with a bit of caution!
May 30th, 2004, 07:24 AM
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Patrick, So good to hear from you! You're missed on the boards, but it's these fabulous trips of yours every year that make you the valuable contributor you are. So glad that you're having a great time.
May 30th, 2004, 10:51 AM
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Hi Ira, I have never had a feeling of fear or having to be extra cautious in any of those other cities you mentioned.....only in Naples! (My sister lives in Berlin and I think that is a safe city). It's all about the mentality of the inhabitants........I like Naples and will return again, just a bit wary this time around, that's all.
Jun 23rd, 2004, 03:57 AM
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Patrick -- I was hoping you would post re Ischia and Ravello, and possibly other stops on your recent trip. Also, I believe you were staying at Hotel Parsifal, and am interested in your opinions on that hotel. We are also thinking of going to Ischia for the day from Capri.
Jun 23rd, 2004, 09:42 AM
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Gabriele, I'm way behind in my regular posts, but we were happy at the Parsifal. I must say the rooms are dowdy at best, almost threadbare, but since we had a room with a gigantic arched covered terrace (maybe about 14 feet by 14 feet) we really didn't care any more. The staff is probably the friendliest and most helpful bunch I've ever encountered in Italy, and I guess I offended when I offered a tip for bringing our bags down to the room, not realizing it was an owner. They would only do half pension, and we thought we'd probably eat out instead at least one night, but found the food very good (despite comments to the contrary here), the service so friendly, and the view from the dining room so spectacular, we ate there both nights.
Jun 23rd, 2004, 09:56 AM
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a funny thing happened in Naples!
Just returned from a big Europe trip....my husband, always eager for a good deal, was approached by a street guy, who was selling a video camera. (our old one has bitten the dust) My husband listened for a while, bartered (from 300 Euros down to 100) and decided not to take it, a decision which I am sure was not affected by his lovely wife shaking her head vehemently, not trusting the street vendor.
He followed us for a while, even crossing the street to accost us, but finally gave up. One block later, a different chap on a motorcycle approached us, and I abandoned the two of them for the shops. On my return, my husband was grinning at his purchase, all tied up in a plastic bag, for 120 U.S.
when we returned to our room, he gleefully opened the bag to find a camera bag filled with sand!
He laughed out loud and chalked it up to experience!
Just returned from a big Europe trip....my husband, always eager for a good deal, was approached by a street guy, who was selling a video camera. (our old one has bitten the dust) My husband listened for a while, bartered (from 300 Euros down to 100) and decided not to take it, a decision which I am sure was not affected by his lovely wife shaking her head vehemently, not trusting the street vendor.
He followed us for a while, even crossing the street to accost us, but finally gave up. One block later, a different chap on a motorcycle approached us, and I abandoned the two of them for the shops. On my return, my husband was grinning at his purchase, all tied up in a plastic bag, for 120 U.S.
when we returned to our room, he gleefully opened the bag to find a camera bag filled with sand!
He laughed out loud and chalked it up to experience!
Jun 23rd, 2004, 10:21 AM
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regarding the free museum...
Probably this has been covered while I was out, but the last week of May (M-Su) Italy had a free museum week (for most of the state run ones). Not sure if this is an annual event. You still had to get tickets and the sellers were tired of explaining - some refused to talk and just scowled behind a pile you had to grab from yourself.
I mostly took advantage of this in Rome where I somehow hit about 8 museums per day (the smaller ones I hadn't seen yet). Some were barely worth the 20 min it took to fly thru each room, but others were worth a long linger.
Altemps had some detailed writeups about the wrongheaded restorations done even in ancient times (such as for fashionablity) to just about every sculpture, which made me wonder about Naples arch. museum which has almost no signage and roman sculptures that look heavily/clumsily restored. Still, there is a lot to say for the raw Naples experience vs. touristy Rome.
Probably this has been covered while I was out, but the last week of May (M-Su) Italy had a free museum week (for most of the state run ones). Not sure if this is an annual event. You still had to get tickets and the sellers were tired of explaining - some refused to talk and just scowled behind a pile you had to grab from yourself.
I mostly took advantage of this in Rome where I somehow hit about 8 museums per day (the smaller ones I hadn't seen yet). Some were barely worth the 20 min it took to fly thru each room, but others were worth a long linger.
Altemps had some detailed writeups about the wrongheaded restorations done even in ancient times (such as for fashionablity) to just about every sculpture, which made me wonder about Naples arch. museum which has almost no signage and roman sculptures that look heavily/clumsily restored. Still, there is a lot to say for the raw Naples experience vs. touristy Rome.
