A Day in Capri?

Apr 23rd, 2008, 05:30 AM
  #1  
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A Day in Capri?

We will have 4 full days in Amalfi and are thinking about devoting one of these to a visit to Capri. I would love to hear thoughts on this from the experienced Amalfi Coasters. (I have spent several days on Capri but this was many years ago; my travel partner has never been).

I have read many of the threads here but still have no real idea about how to best spend the time. We have no interest in a Blue Grotto tour and I am a bit leery of encountering hordes of other day trippers. Perhaps better to concentrate our time on the Coast itself and leave Capri for a trip when we can spend a few days??
Or plan to spend a half-day here?

If anyone would like to take the time to sketch out an ideal "Capri day" (or half day) I would be grateful..this might include a scenic walk, a fabulous lunch overlooking the sea in a restaurant few tourists know about (joke..), etc...

Also, do you all think that I should devote some time to exploring the Sorrentine Peninsula..Marina del Cantone, Massa Lubrense, Nerano.... Is this area at all feasible for day tripping by public transport? Might this be a better option at this busy time of year (end of April) than Capri?
ekscrunchy is offline  
Apr 23rd, 2008, 06:59 AM
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I wouldn't do Capri as a day trip, but if I were, I'd wouldn't miss the views from Monte Solaro, Villa Jovis, Belvedere Cannone or Belvedere Tragara. Capri Town and Anacapri become special only at night when the crowds are gone.

This is my opinion, though.
Castellanese is offline  
Apr 23rd, 2008, 07:15 AM
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C: You know I just may take your advice...it looks like we can keep busy and maybe even avoid the bulk of the crowds on the mainland by concentrating on the less touristy or smaller places.

I was wondering about the Sorrentine Peninsula (?)

When I think of a day trip to Capri I just imagine hordes of people, all in search of the same trails and views....but my partner has never been...
ekscrunchy is offline  
Apr 23rd, 2008, 07:47 AM
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DH and I did the day trip to Capri a few years ago. When you get off the hydrofoil, it was tourist central. we took the cable car to the top and ran into a few bus tours all heading to the same place. So, we went the opposite way where there was noone, then they left and we had the views to ourselves. DH and I have a knack for doing that.......
LoriNY1 is offline  
Apr 23rd, 2008, 08:31 AM
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Eks,

When I visited, I did stay 2 nights and didn't care at all for the hoards of daytrippers and tour groups and monsterous luggage carts going through the narrow streets of town!

What I enjoyed very much were:

boat tour around the entire island - small boat carried about 15 people, didn't stop at Blue Grotto - seas too rough. No problem, beautiful day, beautiful scenery.

Hike up to Villa Jovis - through the neighborhoods of the real Capri no crowds at all

Visit to Chiesa San Michele in Anacapri - famouse ceramic tile floor of the Garden of Eden. Short visit, but special.

Axel Muenth house - gardens are gorgeous with grat views

Buon viaggio!
Dayle is offline  
Apr 23rd, 2008, 08:45 AM
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If you must day trip to Capri, the solution is to walk just a bit out of town. The crowds diminish quickly. Personally I'd recommend Villa Jovis. I haven't been for a while, but there was a small cliffside cafe nearby where you could order a glass of the local white wine served with a few peach slices (one of my favorite memories of Italy). More substantial fare, too. Also, along the way, a small farmhouse restaurant (on the right on the way down).
Fra_Diavolo is offline  
Apr 23rd, 2008, 09:21 AM
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I second what Fra Diavolo says. All those day trippers do not seem to venture too far from the centers in either Capri town or Anacapri town. We were there for a week last year and did most of the walks in the Sunflower guide (the majority of which are mild to moderate and quite pleasant) and would hardly think it the same island once you get out just a tiny bit.
smarty is offline  
Apr 23rd, 2008, 09:36 AM
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Have to add -- I searched a bit on the net and found this

http://tinyurl.com/6fhswe

A Sports Illustrated article about Capri from 1960. It appears people had the same reservations then . . .
Fra_Diavolo is offline  
Apr 23rd, 2008, 10:08 AM
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Thanks, everyone!

Who knew that SI featured travel articles? And how wonderful that you could find it on the net!! Thanks for posting!

ekscrunchy is offline  
Apr 23rd, 2008, 11:47 AM
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If you cannot stay at least overnight, I would suggest Ischia as a better day trip destination.
auldyins is offline  
Apr 23rd, 2008, 02:15 PM
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Absolutely, go -- if you cannot stay, a day trip can still be lots of fun. As already mentioned, the crowds stay mostly in the two towns and in the marina areas. Villa Jovis and the walk from Capri town are lovely and offer wonderful scenery, and there is a restaurant not too far from VJ along the road. The route is through a residential area. Also, we found it quite entertaining to sit at a cafe and watch the crowds in both towns. Great window shopping in Capri and more realistic priced shopping in Anacapri. Other lovely experiences include the walk to Punta Tragara, the boat ride around the island, the bus ride to Anacapri, the chair lift to Monte Solaro with fabulous views from the top. It will be a whirlwind, very fun day. Having done a day trip to Ischia, I would recommend Capri instead. There is nothing else like it in that part of Italy.
gabriele is offline  
Apr 23rd, 2008, 02:35 PM
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I always wonder when people visit Capri and complain about crowds. The hot sweating crowds are right around the shops and the square in Capri town and the immediate vicinity.

If a visitor walks not even that far on the various paths they may find themself alone.

I have stated before that on some of my walks in the middle of the day, admittedly not in July or August, it seemed like myself and my companion were alone on the island.

Sunflower Landscapes by Julian Tippett has some of these walks in the Sorrento book.

On my first trip to Capri I took a path that had the most beautiful views of Faraglioni and I have not been able to locate it since.

But I hope the tales of over crowding continues to help scare people away, then I can enjoy the square too.
SeaUrchin is offline  
Apr 24th, 2008, 12:58 AM
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Hi Eks - I find it relatively easy to avoid the crowds (- although I never go in July/Aug).

The secret is ... go against the flow

The mob piles off the ferry, crams into the funicular and heads up to Capri town.

Instead I jump on the Anacapri bus near the port ... and head directly up to Anacapri. If the summit's clear I jump on the chairlift up Monte Solaro first thing.

After a coffee in the piazza and a wander around Anacapri, I head back down towards Capri ... and wander down the lane (- or catch another bus) down to the beach at Marina Piccola.

I often have lunch down there, then head back up to Capri town mid-afternoon. By that time the crowds have dispersed and it's much more pleasant in town.

Hope this helps ...

Steve
Steve_James is offline  
Apr 24th, 2008, 04:28 AM
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This is all very helpful! I will let you know the outcome when I return..we leaving in a few days..

I have been reading the Carla Capalbo book and she mentions a walk of 30 minutes from Anacapri to Da Gelsomina Restaurant, where the terrace offers amazing views of Ischia and the Bay...any thoughts of this idea?
ekscrunchy is offline  
Apr 24th, 2008, 05:19 AM
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Have a look at the Web site:
http://www.dagelsomina.com/index.html
Zerlina is offline  
Apr 24th, 2008, 06:40 AM
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Eks - Crowds really won't be a problem in Capri at this time of year (- even less so if you avoid weekends).

Buon viaggio

Steve
Steve_James is offline  
Apr 24th, 2008, 06:53 AM
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You will be fine as long as you get off the beaten path a little bit. Another idea: Walk to the Arco Naturale. There is a little restaurant right there. After you are done eating you can continue around to Grotta Matermania and back on through to Capri.
nnolen is offline  
Apr 24th, 2008, 07:03 AM
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Hi eks -

Our day trip to Capri was in September a few years ago. We got off the ferry, took the funicular up to Capri Town, then immediately went up to Anacapri, and then immediately up to Monte Solaro. No crowds.

Then back down to Anacapri for lunch and to see the piazza, the church, and the Munthe villa. Not too crowded either.

Then back down to Capri and straight out Via Tragara. Not crowded.

When we went back to Capri Town, though, the crowds were pretty heavy. But we were ready to leave by then anyway, so we did.

I wouldn't even consider not going to Capri. It's magical, even as a day trip.

Rob
robertino is offline  
Apr 24th, 2008, 08:06 AM
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Wonderful. As I said, I have been to Capri many years ago when I stayed for a few days. With all of this advice, I will plan a day there next week.

Zerlina thank you for posting that link. Da Gelsomina looks lovely (the rooms are very reasonable, too) and they have a pool so perhaps we can swim after lunch!
ekscrunchy is offline  
Apr 24th, 2008, 09:03 AM
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I took a quick look at the transport options from Amalfi, where we will be staying, to Capri.

The only morning ferry (traghetti from Conzolozio LMP) I see so far is one at 9:30, a good time for us, that costs 15 Euro one way. (Return at 4:30pm)

So the access alone will cost 60 Euro for two, correct?
Are there other options?
ekscrunchy is offline  

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