Go Back  Fodor's Travel Talk Forums > Destinations > Europe
Reload this Page >

6 women, 2 flats, 2 cars (oops - 3 cars), big house -- 2+ weeks in England

Search

6 women, 2 flats, 2 cars (oops - 3 cars), big house -- 2+ weeks in England

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old Jun 6th, 2009, 06:04 PM
  #41  
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 136
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Sian Phillips! *thud* I still remember her from "I, Claudius".
Feldie is offline  
Old Jun 6th, 2009, 07:00 PM
  #42  
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 27,614
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
"I just had to explain the situation and at Paddington they called a supervisor over to override the computer to spit out the tickets." - I recently had the same problem with SNCF train tickets. I took the canceled card with me, and got the tickets against it with no problem.

Oddly, my other Citibank card was just canceled for the same reason - "possibly compromised" - although again I'm allowed to continue using it for purchases until the new one shows up, just that the account isn't accessible on the web. Makes me wonder if changing the card number lets them change the terms.
thursdaysd is offline  
Old Jun 6th, 2009, 08:20 PM
  #43  
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 16,658
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Oh fabulous read! I certainly would love the tea at the Ritz in London. Enjoying every word. Keep it coming. Loved the house you rented in the countryside - what a treat.
MomDDTravel is offline  
Old Jun 6th, 2009, 08:34 PM
  #44  
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Posts: 3,037
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Hi janis,

I'm enjoying your report and looking forward to reading more. I'll say right up front that you are a better person than me- just the thought of travelling with 5 other women is enough to set my teeth on edge and if it were me there would have been violence by day three. It sounds like you took everyone's foibles in stride and handled things with grace and humour.
Apres_Londee is offline  
Old Jun 6th, 2009, 09:18 PM
  #45  
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Posts: 4,258
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Enjoying your report, janis.
travelgirl2 is offline  
Old Jun 7th, 2009, 04:56 AM
  #46  
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Posts: 5,521
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Your report is a delight. Can't wait to read more.
VirginiaC is offline  
Old Jun 7th, 2009, 02:15 PM
  #47  
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Posts: 2,832
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Nice report, but I would hazard a guess that the friends who accompanied you on the trip aren't reading it: especially the "slightly jet-laggy and grouchy" one and the "separate checks nazi". Do they not know about Fodor's forums?
azzure is offline  
Old Jun 7th, 2009, 02:43 PM
  #48  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 72,823
Likes: 0
Received 50 Likes on 7 Posts
"<i>if it were me there would have been violence by day three</i>"

We didn't have any violence until day 13 - well not "violence " exactly . . . .

<B>Tues. May 12. Wandering through Wapping, the Town of Ramsgate (the pub - not the town), Prospect of Whitby, the Eye and Oxo Tower</B>:

Today everyone went their separate ways in 1's and 2's. Because we all decided the group celebratory ride on the Eye would be a no-go - the three of us in the one flat decided to meet up at the Eye at 5:00 PM and go ourselves.

I slept in a bit, did laundry, hit the Waitrose and just relaxed until about 10:00 and then decided to walk east from the Marina. I've spent a bit of time farther east, taken the tourist jaunt to the Prospect of Whitby, and on the south side of the river but never really walked through Wapping. It was a really nice walk - apparently Wapping has been greatly gentrified and parts have a real village-y feeling. Lots of places to access the Thamseside path. Came to the Town of Ramsgate pub next to the Wapping stairs (one of my friends used to live between the Marina and Wapping and she mentioned liking this place). I popped in and it seemed like the sort of place I'd like as my local. Very comfortable but not posh and w/ a nice terrace out by the river. I had a half of cider and now fortified kept walking east. Went past the Prospect of Whitby and wandered down to the river bank several times.

I didn't have my AtoZ or a proper map w/ me but knew after Limehouse the river would swing quite a ways south and I could take the DLR back. Instead I walked north to the Commercial Row and found a bus stop that listed the much appreciated #15 . . . So not knowing exactly what I'd do next I jumped on and headed west back towards the city. I rode the 15 for nearly 45 minutes and it was amazing how the riders changed as we wended our way west. When I got on almost all the passengers were muslim. Mainly women completely covered. Then several blocks west they started getting off and most new comers were Afro/Caribbean. Then slowly the bus became almost totally South Asian. It was really fascinating - we went through most of the British Empire in a few miles. By the time the bus got to Tower Hill it was a complete mixed melting pot . . . .

I stayed on the bus all the way to Charing Cross w/ the idea of hitting TKTS for the Billy Elliot matinee. But decided against because it had been breezy all day and my eyes were really watery and itchy and I figured it would be tough sitting through the show. So instead I wandered over to Chinatown for a late lunch. I don't remember the name of the place - it was a small one on Wardour St and I had a great wor wonton soup.

From there I went over to the TIC on Regent St to buy my Great British Heritage Pass to use our second week. I'd advised everyone to get a GBHP - and they decided to wait until we were in London instead of ordering them in advance.

I met the other two at 5:00 in front of County Hall. There was some sort of horror movie exhibit at the Movieum and there was this one REALLY annoying guy who was made up w/ dripping blood and an eye dangling and he kept running around on the embankment screaming at the top of his lungs and scaring folks.

We bought our tix and were on board by 5:30. It was clear and the views were stupendous of course. In all the times I've been on the Eye (I think this makes 5 or 6) I've never stood in the right place for the photo that gets taken just before the finish. This time I made a point of it and even bought the cheesy thing

We then walked along the southbank and to the OXO Tower. I had intended to just go up for drinks, but they had just closed the cocktail bar and Brasserie for remodeling. The space that used to be the posher restaurant was divided into 1/2 restaurant and 1/2 brasserie. It was 6:30-ish and they were booked up, but the hostess said they could squeeze us in if we could be out by 8:00. So we ate in the Brasserie side and it was wonderful. Had sea bass, w/ wild mushrooms and artichoke puree w/ some sort of olive dumpling thing and a glass of wine.

We got out just before 8PM and walked along past the Tate and Globe then across the Millennium Bridge up to St Paul's and then hailed a cab back to the Marina.

We told the cabbie not to worry where to drop us - the Tower Hotel or anywhere convenient. Well, we drove in under the hotel and all these navy personnel and police came running from all directions. Seems the access road was closed and there was some sort of event going on. The cabbie was sort of trapped but they let him through and we jumped out and were almost swallowed up by a parade - band, several marching units that were coming from the direction of the Tower of London and then through the Marina to parts unknown.

Back to the flat and collapsed for the rest of the evening . . .

Next: <B>London Walks - Jewish East End, British Library, Meeting NeoPatrick for drinks, Ceremony of the Keys
janisj is online now  
Old Jun 7th, 2009, 02:50 PM
  #49  
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 5,613
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
How brave of you to mastermind of such a group, and lucky they were to have you.

If your companions didn't bother to haunt fodor's before the trip and educate themselves, they don't deserve to read the frank and unvarnished trip report.
stokebailey is offline  
Old Jun 7th, 2009, 02:50 PM
  #50  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 72,823
Likes: 0
Received 50 Likes on 7 Posts
azzure: Didn't see your post. The grochy/jet laggy bit wouldn't offend the lady - she copped a plea to that one.

And the two "ORD ladies" were very easy going and able to laugh at themselves and were perfectly OK w/ being frightened of the Eye.

I did think long and hard about "separate check nazi" though. So far she has never accessed Fodors that I know of. She would not be surprised by the comments since the separate checks issue was a running theme throughout the entire trip - she never capitulated and w/ some funny consequences the 2nd week. She still thinks she is right. Though the "nazi" bit probably was a bit strong.
janisj is online now  
Old Jun 7th, 2009, 02:54 PM
  #51  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 72,823
Likes: 0
Received 50 Likes on 7 Posts
I was posting a reply the same time as stokebailey and it seems to have vaporized so here goes again . . . .

azzure: Didn't see your post. The grochy/jet laggy bit wouldn't offend the lady - she copped a plea to that one.

And the two "ORD ladies" were very easy going and able to laugh at themselves and were perfectly OK w/ being frightened of the Eye.

I did think long and hard about "separate check nazi" though. So far she has never accessed Fodors that I know of. She would not be surprised by the comments since the separate checks issue was a running theme throughout the entire trip - she never capitulated and w/ some funny consequences the 2nd week. She still thinks she is right. Though the word "nazi" probably was a bit strong if she ever does check in . . . .
janisj is online now  
Old Jun 7th, 2009, 03:56 PM
  #52  
 
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 2,637
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
janisj:

Excellent details and so interesting to hear about the odd quirks of your group of ladies.

You should be browned off by now but it seems your patience is endless. Separate checks and the funny consequences the 2nd week will enlighten us further.

More please and thank you for sharing.

Sandy
SandyBrit is offline  
Old Jun 7th, 2009, 04:03 PM
  #53  
yk
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 25,882
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Hi janis, do you recall the prices at the Brasserie at the OXO Tower? How's the view from the Brasserie side, do all the tables get a decent view?

Oh, Harvey Nichols runs the restaurant & brasserie now?
http://www.harveynichols.com/output/Page128.asp

I found the sample menu... http://www.harveynichols.com/files/p...enuapril09.pdf
yk is offline  
Old Jun 7th, 2009, 04:50 PM
  #54  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 72,823
Likes: 0
Received 50 Likes on 7 Posts
Weird - my double post was not there - honest. I re-posted and now the first one shows. Guess the site can't handle all these simultaneous posts . . .

yk - the Brasserie temporarily shares the same space at the restaurant. The main way you can tell which is which is the resto has table cloths and the Brasserie end doesn't. The restaurant is on the down-river end of the room -- towards St Pauls/Tate Modern -- and the Brasserie is on the up river (west) end.

I knew Harvey Nicks was running the place but didn't know about the remodel going on. The Brasserie mains ran between about £15 and £22 or a bit more. Didn't see the restaurant menu but in the past (the old management) their mains were around £25+
janisj is online now  
Old Jun 8th, 2009, 01:00 PM
  #55  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 72,823
Likes: 0
Received 50 Likes on 7 Posts
<B>London Walks - Jewish East End, British Library, Meeting NeoPatrick for drinks, Ceremony of the Keys</B>:

This morning (Wed) the ORD ladies/sister went to Hampton Court Palace - after a slight hiccup. I had put together a written itinerary w/ the various full group activities/events interspersed w/ lots of "morning at leisure" and "this might be a good day for shopping" type entries. But there it was on the "plan" 'Wed: meet at 9:00 am to visit the Tower of London. After lunch head to St Paul's'.

Well, the night before no one had mentioned it and I <u>totally</u> forgot about it. That was when I first realized the girls considered the itinerary set in stone. At 8:45 the 3 of them were on our doorstep ready to go (I wasn't even dressed yet ). I felt so bad but they headed over to Starbucks for their morning coffee and to decide what to do. I threw on some clothes and ran over there and we talked about some options. They weren't upset at all - thank goodness. I felt I had let them down (the other two - my room mates - weren't planning on going to the Tower that day in any case) After kicking around the possibilities they decided to go to HCP and I explained how to get to Waterloo and the train to the Palace.

I went back to the flat and the other two were deciding this would be a good day for St Paul's and shopping. I was again free (!) until the keys ceremony tonight.

I looked through the London Walks brochure and found a Wednesday walk leaving from Tower Hill which could not have been more convenient. It was "Jewish East London" guided by Steve and was really interesting. I had been to some of the places (Spittalfields, Brick Lane, etc etc ) but never to the Bevis Marks synagog nor seen the Huguenot weaver's houses. When we entered the synagog, a curator (not sure of his actual title) took over the narrative and he was even better than Steve. His knowledge and passion for the history of the bldg was obvious. The interior is really beautiful and in a way reminds me of the layout of St Martin's in the Field.

http://www.bevismarks.org.uk/

After the walk I wandered some more through the area and then walked back past Aldgate, tower Hill and to the Marina. Did a little bit of hand laundry and then set out for the British Library. Really only did the Treasures Gallery - there is a special Henry VIII exhibit that did have tix available but I thought I'd not have enough time to do it any sort of justice. It was already 4 PM and I was meeting Neo Patrick at 5:30 near Covent Garden. So the Treasures it was. The one new thing I don't remember from before are the computerized stations where you can bring up the image of a book or document and "turn the pages" and read it.

Then off to the Lobby bar of One Aldwych to meet NeoPatrick. Later he is going to a play just around the corner so it was a perfect place to meet up. We had a nice long visit and good drinks/nosh. Not cheap of course since this is a pretty posh hotel. Two (very well made) Pimm's, two Rob Roy's, and shared appetizer calimari and caprese salad came to £65. But even at the prices - I'd go back there again. The service was great and the seating was mostly couches and over stuffed chairs.

After saying goodbye to NP, I wandered around Covent Garden for a while and then headed back to the marina. We all met at 9:00 and walked over for the Ceremony. Everyone really enjoyed it - our Yeoman Warder was especially good. There was a group of young Belgians who were a bit too boisterous - actually more than boisterous joking about passing gas and such The Beefeater played along w/ them for a while - and then got serious and lowered the boom. They were meek as lambs after that. We spent more time in the upper ward after they played Last Post than on previous times I've attended. He mentioned the "unlocking ceremony" in the mornings. You don't need to book for this since you can view it from the wharf.

Afterwards we wandered back to the marina and a couple of us popped into Cafe Rouge for a nightcap.

Next: <B>Panic time, two ladies locked inside their flat! Silver Vaults, Dinner at Rule's
janisj is online now  
Old Jun 8th, 2009, 01:31 PM
  #56  
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 27,614
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
" I felt I had let them down " - as others have said, you really are a saint! BTW, you were right to skip Henry VIII - I started it at 3:00 and didn't have enough time.
thursdaysd is offline  
Old Jun 8th, 2009, 04:00 PM
  #57  
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,214
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
I am glued to your report! I agree with the others, you are a saint. . . and a GREAT travel planner . . . and trip report writer! Can't wait for the next installment.

Sandy (in Denton)
sandy_b is offline  
Old Jun 8th, 2009, 08:33 PM
  #58  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 72,823
Likes: 0
Received 50 Likes on 7 Posts
Panic time, two ladies locked inside their flat! Silver Vaults, Dinner at Rule's (and yes - separate checks). Our last night in London

One of the ORD ladies is in the nursery business and has been itching to get to Kew. She couldn't really get anyone else excited about the idea (I think some were still in shopping mode). I had some errands to run but offered to go w/ her. She thanked me but was feeling brave and thought it was about time she try to navigate the tube on her own. I told her about the Maids of Honour and the cafes w/i the Gardens and off she went.

the others were going off in various directions to help the London retail economy. My plans were to hit some books shops to pick up material that is harder to find in the States. Mostly guide books and such to use in my travel talks. Plus 2 road atlases we'd need on Friday for our two rental cars. Then on to the Silver Vaults - just maybe I'd find that elusive perfect tantalus. And finally to the gift shop at the Tower to see what new things they have.

Phone rings. "<blue>Help, where is Marty?</blue>" "She just left for Kew" "<blue>Oh no! we're locked in!</blue>" "How can you be locked in?" "She locked the door from the outside!!!!" "Well - you have another set of keys - unlock it." "It DOESN'T work!" Now - I wasn't dressed yet but was sure they could get the door open. I yelled upstairs to my roommates (who were ready to go out) They would go over to the other flat where the others would put their keys out through the letter slot and then the door could be unlocked. After several minutes my roommates came back - mission accomplished.

In the evening (on our way to Rules) they fessed up that they hadn't been locked in afterall - they'd figured out the locks later that afternoon.

Earlier in the planning everyone decided a posh dinner this last night would be a good ending for London. They wanted really traditional and I suggested either Simpson's in the Strand or Rule's, and Rules won the vote. So I contacted Rules early in April - and no luck. They were booked up and had no space for a party of 6. What to do - I tried for other nights and the only option seemed to be Monday which wouldn't work because we already had Calendar Girls tix. There were a couple of days they could have fit us in for lunch. I remembered they have a private room so I asked about that - and Yes - they would be happy to book the private Betjeman Room on the Thurs night. Hooray!. OOPS - then the other shoe drops. In the private dining room each diner must have the same meal (8 choices of set meals - but all have to choose the <B>same</B> one). OK - what do you think the odds are that we could all agree on the very same menu??? Me too

So I called the person I'd been exchanging e-mails w/ and said "I know the Betjeman Room would be a wonderful experience -- BUT since most of the group has never been there before, it would be a shame if we were limited to one set meal. What would you suggest?" Well - he said let me see what I can do -- and he soon sent me an e-mail saying they could accommodate us in the main dining room at 7 PM. !!! Yippee - another bump avoided.

I managed to hit all my planned stops (but no Tantalus - or at least any close to my target price ) and also managed to take a header in the middle of Queen Victoria Street (near Blackfriar's station). Was walking across the street which was pretty torn up w/ pot holes and construction around the closed station. My heel caught the back edge of a pothole and I went down like a lead weight. Full on both knees w/o breaking my fall. Two men walking behind me ran up to help and a cabbie stopped and got out to see if I needed anything. I was sooooooo lucky. One knee was scraped a bit but no real broken skin and all body parts seemed to be working. The two men carried my parcels across the street and one followed me for about 1/2 a block to make sure I was OK.

<B>Dinner at Rules</B>: Everyone LOVED the place, the service, the food. But of course, you know who had to ask out waiter for separate checks! At RULE's fer cryin out loud! he was very accommodating - but once again it took them the longest time to get them all straightened out.

I had a smoked salmon starter and Venison Osso buco and it was WONDERFUL. Because of all the various starters/mains we had individual glasses of wine instead of ordering bottles. Bwteen the 6 of us we had 5 different starters, five different mains, and 6 different puddings ("desserts" in American) - so it was a really good thing we weren't stuck w/ ONE set menu!

After dinner it was back to the marina to pack and get ready to move to the country.

next: Train to Oxford, Rental cars, losing one car along the way, moving into our country retreat

Last edited by Moderator1; Jun 30th, 2020 at 09:15 AM. Reason: Removed broken html
janisj is online now  
Old Jun 9th, 2009, 04:57 AM
  #59  
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 5,613
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Locks and things can be baffling over there.

Were you the "try bites of each others'meals" school, or the kind who think that's horrifying? I won't admit my school if you're the second type.
stokebailey is offline  
Old Jun 9th, 2009, 08:12 AM
  #60  
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 6,629
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
I've traveled in a group where one person wanted separate checks. We asked the waiter to give her a separate check and the rest of us split the remainder.

I guess I would understand separate checks if the meals were wildly different (one person or couple consistently ordered multiple courses or many more drinks than the other) but usually it all evens out in the end.
Cathinjoetown is offline  


Contact Us - Manage Preferences - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Do Not Sell or Share My Personal Information -