3 weeks – minus 3 days – in France
Jun 9th, 2018 | 11:20 AM
#1
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Joined: Jan 2003
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3 weeks – minus 3 days – in France
Our trip to France this past April-May was wonderful. We arrived three days late, courtesy of Air France and SNCF. Since we had a Fly-Train air ticket, one part was linked to the other, so we couldn’t begin with the flight until the rail day was functioning. It’s a long story and not that important because we finally did arrive.
Avignon (Hotel de l’Horloge-a lovely place that graciously accommodated us as we shifted two of the nights we’d booked with them) was our first five nights and from that location we took day trips to Arles, Aix-en-Provence, and a one day wine tour. The day spent on the Avignon sights – Bridge, Palace of the Popes, etc. – was especially fun. It was a good stay, had a couple of noteworthy meals, a Sunday brunch in Aix at the Hotel de Caumont, and La Vache a Carreaux in Avignon, to mention two.
Because we had to cancel our stay in Carcassonne, we trained directly to Toulouse (Novatel Toulouse Centre Wilson hotel-a contemporary, tasteful, professional place with a very good breakfast) for three nights. We stayed in a central location, not far from the rail station, and while there took a day trip to Albi to see the one-of-a-kind cathedral. Actually, the two places in Toulouse most noteworthy architecturally to us were also cathedrals, St. Sernin and the Church of the Jacobins.
Now, to our favorite destination of the trip, Sarlat-la-Caneda and those surrounding caves with incredible, absolutely stunning, prehistoric cave art! During the next four days we would tour a total of five caves: Pech Merle, Lascaux 4, Font-de-Gaume, Rouffignac, Abri du Cap Blanc, plus the Prehistory Welcome Center in LesEyzies-de-Tayac. We picked up a rental car in Toulouse and programmed in the route to Pech Merle, our first cave, an extraordinary beginning introduction to our next four days! Then onward to Sarlat and our B&B (Les Cordeliers- excellent in-town place with friendly, helpful and all around great hosts who created and served fabulous breakfasts). Even as we look back to those few days, we still can’t pick a favorite cave, as they were all different and each was extraordinary in its own way. Pech Merle and Lascaux 4 we visited on our own, buying tickets ahead of time on-line, and touring with a group. The other three caves were part of an itinerary, as we had hired a private guide, who is a national guide-lecturer, licensed by the ministry of culture. She was amazing, so knowledgeable, and though it was pricey, we learned much from her explanations of the art. That day we started at 9am and ended at 6pm. We highly recommend this touring method if it’s at all possible. In Sarlat we ate at a couple of nice places, one being a really wonderful pizza place, Pizzeria Romane.
We boarded a train to Paris where we spent our remaining six nights (Artus hotel-wonderful hotel, terrific staff, centrally located in the 6th Arr.) We did many of the things we’d done before in Paris 20 years ago, such as visiting museums, churches, classic sights. This time we included a tour of the Opera Garnier and attended an evening concert in the St Germain church. Both were well worth it, especially the concert in that glorious church setting.
Although we had a trying beginning to the visit, we were able to avoid rail strike days during our visit, and found the people we met to be very friendly and always pleasantly helpful to two who spoke almost no French. Thanks so much for everyone’s help in making this a successful trip!
Avignon (Hotel de l’Horloge-a lovely place that graciously accommodated us as we shifted two of the nights we’d booked with them) was our first five nights and from that location we took day trips to Arles, Aix-en-Provence, and a one day wine tour. The day spent on the Avignon sights – Bridge, Palace of the Popes, etc. – was especially fun. It was a good stay, had a couple of noteworthy meals, a Sunday brunch in Aix at the Hotel de Caumont, and La Vache a Carreaux in Avignon, to mention two.
Because we had to cancel our stay in Carcassonne, we trained directly to Toulouse (Novatel Toulouse Centre Wilson hotel-a contemporary, tasteful, professional place with a very good breakfast) for three nights. We stayed in a central location, not far from the rail station, and while there took a day trip to Albi to see the one-of-a-kind cathedral. Actually, the two places in Toulouse most noteworthy architecturally to us were also cathedrals, St. Sernin and the Church of the Jacobins.
Now, to our favorite destination of the trip, Sarlat-la-Caneda and those surrounding caves with incredible, absolutely stunning, prehistoric cave art! During the next four days we would tour a total of five caves: Pech Merle, Lascaux 4, Font-de-Gaume, Rouffignac, Abri du Cap Blanc, plus the Prehistory Welcome Center in LesEyzies-de-Tayac. We picked up a rental car in Toulouse and programmed in the route to Pech Merle, our first cave, an extraordinary beginning introduction to our next four days! Then onward to Sarlat and our B&B (Les Cordeliers- excellent in-town place with friendly, helpful and all around great hosts who created and served fabulous breakfasts). Even as we look back to those few days, we still can’t pick a favorite cave, as they were all different and each was extraordinary in its own way. Pech Merle and Lascaux 4 we visited on our own, buying tickets ahead of time on-line, and touring with a group. The other three caves were part of an itinerary, as we had hired a private guide, who is a national guide-lecturer, licensed by the ministry of culture. She was amazing, so knowledgeable, and though it was pricey, we learned much from her explanations of the art. That day we started at 9am and ended at 6pm. We highly recommend this touring method if it’s at all possible. In Sarlat we ate at a couple of nice places, one being a really wonderful pizza place, Pizzeria Romane.
We boarded a train to Paris where we spent our remaining six nights (Artus hotel-wonderful hotel, terrific staff, centrally located in the 6th Arr.) We did many of the things we’d done before in Paris 20 years ago, such as visiting museums, churches, classic sights. This time we included a tour of the Opera Garnier and attended an evening concert in the St Germain church. Both were well worth it, especially the concert in that glorious church setting.
Although we had a trying beginning to the visit, we were able to avoid rail strike days during our visit, and found the people we met to be very friendly and always pleasantly helpful to two who spoke almost no French. Thanks so much for everyone’s help in making this a successful trip!
Jun 10th, 2018 | 05:23 AM
#2
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 57,091
Likes: 5
oh, what a lovely TR. Thanks so much for posting it.
DH and I spent 3 nights in Toulouse a few years ago and despite the almost overwhelming heat, we enjoyed it a lot. On another visit Sarlat was also a favourite of ours along with Lascaux 2 [this was years ago when we we had our kids with us] and Pech Merle, though the kids possibly enjoyed the Gouffres de Padirac most so I have very fond memories of this area.
DH and I spent 3 nights in Toulouse a few years ago and despite the almost overwhelming heat, we enjoyed it a lot. On another visit Sarlat was also a favourite of ours along with Lascaux 2 [this was years ago when we we had our kids with us] and Pech Merle, though the kids possibly enjoyed the Gouffres de Padirac most so I have very fond memories of this area.
Jun 12th, 2018 | 08:05 AM
#3
Original Poster
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 958
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Thank you, Ann. I know we’ll also have fond memories of the Dordogne region for many years and especially of the extraordinary parietal art in all those caves. No doubt we’ll be visiting more of this art in the not too distant future, maybe venturing to Altamira Cave (replica) in Spain, which has been on our list for ages. France was delightful (each region that we were in) and we were happy to have the opportunity to visit again.Thanks for reading.
