3 Weeks in Portugal: A photographic report of a trip in progress
May 30th, 2021, 10:45 PM
#62
Original Poster
Join Date: Mar 2003
Posts: 964
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
May 31st, 2021, 04:12 AM
#63
Join Date: Dec 2005
Posts: 676
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Fantastic trip report! Bringing this part of the world alive! I’m so surprised your photos are just taken with your iPhone. I have the 11 too and mine aren’t as pretty. Are you using a special lens too? Anyway, breathtaking!
May 31st, 2021, 05:16 AM
#64
Original Poster
Join Date: Mar 2003
Posts: 964
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Aveiro: The “Venice” of Portugal, (if Venice were reduced to 1/100 its actual size, and had sexually provocative paintings of women painted on their gondolas). A nice place to stretch your legs for an hour, and have a coffee or lunch.
May 31st, 2021, 10:21 AM
#65
Original Poster
Join Date: Mar 2003
Posts: 964
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I have the 11 pro, which has a telephoto and wide angle lens. I also play with different exposures when I take multiple versions of the same shot. If you tap on a bright part of the image I’ll will make the entire image darker. If you tap on a dark part of the image, it will make everything brighter. Google some articles or video tutorials on taking the best pics with your iPhone. It’s pretty versatile.
Jun 1st, 2021, 09:51 AM
#66
Join Date: Oct 2012
Posts: 1,291
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
You have quite a few photos that are among the best/most interesting travel photos I have ever seen. Wow. I love the surprise factor. The photo with the very colorful and joyous ceiling combined with the somber full-length portraits is startling. Where was that taken?
Jun 1st, 2021, 10:48 AM
#67
Original Poster
Join Date: Mar 2003
Posts: 964
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
That’s very nice, thank you. That was taken with the wide angle lens, so that I could fit in the ceiling and the portraits. All I can tell you is that it was at the Coimbra University, on the guided tour that takes you though the former royal palace.
Jun 1st, 2021, 11:16 AM
#68
Original Poster
Join Date: Mar 2003
Posts: 964
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Guimarães
After our brief stop in Aveiro, it was a quick 90 minute drive to what turned out to be one of our favorite cities, Guimarães, another UNESCO World Heritage site. Portugal’s first monarch was born here, and it was also the country’s first capital.
We arrived in time for lunch, and stumbled by chance on Histórico by Papaboa, which wins our award for most beautiful outdoor dining space of the trip, with its very pleasant courtyard in back, around a lovely fountain.
In general, there are no major sights, but the historic center is very well preserved, and there are a lot of lively outdoor cafes in all the main squares. We did really enjoy our visit to the Palace of the Dukes of Bragança, whose architecture looked much different than the other places we have visited thus far. We also enjoyed the small castle and the convent of Santa Clara, but mostly, it was just a very pleasant town for soaking up the atmosphere. We had an excellent splurge dinner at HOOL, at the Hotel da Oliveira, located on the beautiful praça of the same name.
Our original plan was to stay one night at the Pousada Mosteiro de Guimarães, but they delayed their reopening and cancelled our stay. Fortunately, I found a bed and breakfast at the last moment that was full of charm.
Staying at Casa do Ribeiro was like staying in the home of a beloved aunt, complete with antique furnishings. Our hostess was wonderful, showing us around the gorgeous rooms of her husband’s ancestral home, introducing us to portraits of parents, grand parents and great-grand parents, and telling us about the time the king came to town. She then served us biscuits and home-made sparkling wine on the terrace, overlooking the stunning garden and the fields of their working farm.
Our bedroom was large and comfortable, if a bit chilly and dark, but that did not detract from the enjoyment of our one night stay. They served us a very an ample breakfast in the sunny garden in the morning, and it was an absolute pleasure
Palace of the Duke of Bragança
Palace interior
We arrived in time for lunch, and stumbled by chance on Histórico by Papaboa, which wins our award for most beautiful outdoor dining space of the trip, with its very pleasant courtyard in back, around a lovely fountain.
In general, there are no major sights, but the historic center is very well preserved, and there are a lot of lively outdoor cafes in all the main squares. We did really enjoy our visit to the Palace of the Dukes of Bragança, whose architecture looked much different than the other places we have visited thus far. We also enjoyed the small castle and the convent of Santa Clara, but mostly, it was just a very pleasant town for soaking up the atmosphere. We had an excellent splurge dinner at HOOL, at the Hotel da Oliveira, located on the beautiful praça of the same name.
Our original plan was to stay one night at the Pousada Mosteiro de Guimarães, but they delayed their reopening and cancelled our stay. Fortunately, I found a bed and breakfast at the last moment that was full of charm.
Staying at Casa do Ribeiro was like staying in the home of a beloved aunt, complete with antique furnishings. Our hostess was wonderful, showing us around the gorgeous rooms of her husband’s ancestral home, introducing us to portraits of parents, grand parents and great-grand parents, and telling us about the time the king came to town. She then served us biscuits and home-made sparkling wine on the terrace, overlooking the stunning garden and the fields of their working farm.
Our bedroom was large and comfortable, if a bit chilly and dark, but that did not detract from the enjoyment of our one night stay. They served us a very an ample breakfast in the sunny garden in the morning, and it was an absolute pleasure
Palace of the Duke of Bragança
Palace interior
Last edited by russ_in_LA; Jun 1st, 2021 at 11:20 AM.
Jun 1st, 2021, 01:13 PM
#70
Join Date: Dec 2005
Posts: 676
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Got it! I will. Headed to Croatia on June 24 and really want to take nice pictures! On to more of your report!
I have the 11 pro, which has a telephoto and wide angle lens. I also play with different exposures when I take multiple versions of the same shot. If you tap on a bright part of the image I’ll will make the entire image darker. If you tap on a dark part of the image, it will make everything brighter. Google some articles or video tutorials on taking the best pics with your iPhone. It’s pretty versatile.
Jun 1st, 2021, 11:38 PM
#72
Original Poster
Join Date: Mar 2003
Posts: 964
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Jun 2nd, 2021, 01:51 PM
#73
Original Poster
Join Date: Mar 2003
Posts: 964
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Braga
Arguably the most famous sight in Braga, the Bom Jesus do Monte Sanctuary is actually located in the hills about 15 minutes from the center of town. Although we went in the morning , I would suggest going in the afternoon, so that the famous stairs are in full sun and not backlit.
After our trip down the stairs and back up again, we headed for the historic center of Braga. Although the town is chock-a-block with churches (some 35 in total), we were a bit churched out at this point, so we only visited the Sé, but it was very much worth the time.
This was another town that surprised me with how pleasant the center was. The two main streets are as wide as Paris boulevards, but pedestrian only, as car traffic has need diverted into underground tunnels. There are also many gardens and public spaces that have been planted with flowers in full bloom . A very easy place to like, it is definitely worth spending few hours there. This would be an easy day trip from Porto, only about 1:10 away by train.
After our trip down the stairs and back up again, we headed for the historic center of Braga. Although the town is chock-a-block with churches (some 35 in total), we were a bit churched out at this point, so we only visited the Sé, but it was very much worth the time.
This was another town that surprised me with how pleasant the center was. The two main streets are as wide as Paris boulevards, but pedestrian only, as car traffic has need diverted into underground tunnels. There are also many gardens and public spaces that have been planted with flowers in full bloom . A very easy place to like, it is definitely worth spending few hours there. This would be an easy day trip from Porto, only about 1:10 away by train.
Jun 2nd, 2021, 08:03 PM
#75
Join Date: Jun 2005
Posts: 736
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Absolutely stunning! And now I am utterly confused! I am working on a 3-4 week trip for 2022 and was thinking:
Madrid - Seville - Lisbon (with our 3 20-something kids for 10 days), then off to Porto for two weeks just with my husband to slow it down. But your pictures are amazing and I love the detailed sight descriptions. I didn't realize there was so much to see and experience in Portugal.
Madrid - Seville - Lisbon (with our 3 20-something kids for 10 days), then off to Porto for two weeks just with my husband to slow it down. But your pictures are amazing and I love the detailed sight descriptions. I didn't realize there was so much to see and experience in Portugal.
Jun 3rd, 2021, 12:23 AM
#76
Original Poster
Join Date: Mar 2003
Posts: 964
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Absolutely stunning! And now I am utterly confused! I am working on a 3-4 week trip for 2022 and was thinking:
Madrid - Seville - Lisbon (with our 3 20-something kids for 10 days), then off to Porto for two weeks just with my husband to slow it down. But your pictures are amazing and I love the detailed sight descriptions. I didn't realize there was so much to see and experience in Portugal.
Madrid - Seville - Lisbon (with our 3 20-something kids for 10 days), then off to Porto for two weeks just with my husband to slow it down. But your pictures are amazing and I love the detailed sight descriptions. I didn't realize there was so much to see and experience in Portugal.
Last edited by russ_in_LA; Jun 3rd, 2021 at 12:32 AM.
Jun 3rd, 2021, 02:04 PM
#77
Original Poster
Join Date: Mar 2003
Posts: 964
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Porto: Day 1
Porto really took me by surprise, in a good way. It’s somewhat grittier than Lisbon, but there are renovations going on everywhere. The buildings that have been restored are gorgeous, and there are cranes in every direction, working on projects in progress. There is an exciting energy to the city, and it makes me really want to come back to check on the progress in the future.
The density of sights within a relatively small area also surprised me. We stayed about a 7 minute walk north of the gorgeous Igreja do Carmo, with its twin towers and beautiful azulejo tiles on the exterior, which we visited on our first day. Another minute brought us to the Lello bookstore, one of the most beautiful in the world, famous for its spectacular staircase (after a look at the line to get in, we saved this for later). Two minutes later found us at Igreja dos Clérigos, with its famous tower, visible from most of the city. Unfortunately the tower was closed, but the church itself still warranted a visit. Another brief stroll and we were at the double feature of Igreja de Santo António dos Congregados, with its tiled facade, and right across the street, the São Bento train station, with its unmistakable tiled interior. From there, it was a few minutes up the hill to the 12th century Sé, as well as the Episcopal Palace, with its grand staircase and fantastic views from the terrace out front. From there we took a steep walk downhill to the riverfront. All of this we managed to do before lunch! We then skirted around a gaggle of unruly football fans, (the game was the following day) and had a great seafood meal at a riverside restaurant, with a view of the Luís l bridge and Gaia across the river.
After lunch we headed for the Bolsa Palace, where we were fortunate enough to be the only two visitors, on what turned out to be a private tour (there are usually up to 50 visitors at a time). As far as I’m concerned, this is one of the sights not to be missed. The building took 60 years to complete, due to the intricately carved granite, as well as the delicate plaster work and trompe l’œil. The moorish-inspired room was a real show stopper.
Afterwards, we huffed up the pedestrian Rua das Flores, where we discovered the Museu da Misericórdia do Porto, which was having a joint exhibition of fashion photographer Peter Linbergh and sculptor Alberto Giacometti. This ended on the roof of the museum, where our tickets were good for two glasses of port at Rooftop Flores, an outdoor bar with amazing views over the city. At this point we had walked close to 6 miles, so we were very happy to relax under a shady tree and rest a while.
On our way back to the apartment, we stopped at the Lello bookstore, but Sam was too tuckered out to stand in line for another half hour. However, I’m glad that I waited, because the staircase there was a close second to the Bolsa Palace as far as gorgeous Porto interiors go.
At this point my feet were starting to rebel and I hobbled back to the apartment. Fortunately, we planned a train ride up the Douro river valley for the next day, so they would have plenty of time to rest.
Igreja do Carmo
Igreja do Carmo
Igreja dos Clérigos,
Igreja de Santo António dos Congregados
São Bento station
The Sé
Bishops Palace
Lunch by the riverside
Bolsa Palace
View from Bolsa Palace
Bolsa Palace
Bolsa Palace
Bolsa Palace
Bolsa Palace
Museu da Misericórdia do Porto
View of the Sé from Museu da Misericórdia do Porto,
View from Rooftop Flores
Lello Bookstore
Lello Bookstore
Lello Bookstore
Lello Bookstore
The density of sights within a relatively small area also surprised me. We stayed about a 7 minute walk north of the gorgeous Igreja do Carmo, with its twin towers and beautiful azulejo tiles on the exterior, which we visited on our first day. Another minute brought us to the Lello bookstore, one of the most beautiful in the world, famous for its spectacular staircase (after a look at the line to get in, we saved this for later). Two minutes later found us at Igreja dos Clérigos, with its famous tower, visible from most of the city. Unfortunately the tower was closed, but the church itself still warranted a visit. Another brief stroll and we were at the double feature of Igreja de Santo António dos Congregados, with its tiled facade, and right across the street, the São Bento train station, with its unmistakable tiled interior. From there, it was a few minutes up the hill to the 12th century Sé, as well as the Episcopal Palace, with its grand staircase and fantastic views from the terrace out front. From there we took a steep walk downhill to the riverfront. All of this we managed to do before lunch! We then skirted around a gaggle of unruly football fans, (the game was the following day) and had a great seafood meal at a riverside restaurant, with a view of the Luís l bridge and Gaia across the river.
After lunch we headed for the Bolsa Palace, where we were fortunate enough to be the only two visitors, on what turned out to be a private tour (there are usually up to 50 visitors at a time). As far as I’m concerned, this is one of the sights not to be missed. The building took 60 years to complete, due to the intricately carved granite, as well as the delicate plaster work and trompe l’œil. The moorish-inspired room was a real show stopper.
Afterwards, we huffed up the pedestrian Rua das Flores, where we discovered the Museu da Misericórdia do Porto, which was having a joint exhibition of fashion photographer Peter Linbergh and sculptor Alberto Giacometti. This ended on the roof of the museum, where our tickets were good for two glasses of port at Rooftop Flores, an outdoor bar with amazing views over the city. At this point we had walked close to 6 miles, so we were very happy to relax under a shady tree and rest a while.
On our way back to the apartment, we stopped at the Lello bookstore, but Sam was too tuckered out to stand in line for another half hour. However, I’m glad that I waited, because the staircase there was a close second to the Bolsa Palace as far as gorgeous Porto interiors go.
At this point my feet were starting to rebel and I hobbled back to the apartment. Fortunately, we planned a train ride up the Douro river valley for the next day, so they would have plenty of time to rest.
Igreja do Carmo
Igreja do Carmo
Igreja dos Clérigos,
Igreja de Santo António dos Congregados
São Bento station
The Sé
Bishops Palace
Lunch by the riverside
Bolsa Palace
View from Bolsa Palace
Bolsa Palace
Bolsa Palace
Bolsa Palace
Bolsa Palace
Museu da Misericórdia do Porto
View of the Sé from Museu da Misericórdia do Porto,
View from Rooftop Flores
Lello Bookstore
Lello Bookstore
Lello Bookstore
Lello Bookstore
Jun 4th, 2021, 09:30 AM
#78
Join Date: Mar 2016
Posts: 321
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Hi! I'd like to inform that lello's staircase is again red. I saw a pic yesterday and asked my friend who published it, and pic was taken the day before. So between Russ stays and now, they paint it again in red. They were doing a lot of refreshments last year, and I was very sad with the color of the stairs, as they were as Russ pics, but now they are again in the original color.
Concerning the 1st picture, Igreja do Carmo: in fact there are two independent churches, Igreja do Carmo and at the left side you can see the other, Igreja das Carmelitas. Between them (as they cannot share a wall) is the narrowest house in Portugal. It used to be the house of the man who rang the bells.
Concerning the 1st picture, Igreja do Carmo: in fact there are two independent churches, Igreja do Carmo and at the left side you can see the other, Igreja das Carmelitas. Between them (as they cannot share a wall) is the narrowest house in Portugal. It used to be the house of the man who rang the bells.
Jun 4th, 2021, 01:40 PM
#79
Join Date: Sep 2004
Posts: 361
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I have been following your wonderful trip report with great interest. My husband and I are planning our first trip to Portugal (May 2022). We also plan on a 3 week visit and virtually all of the locations you detail sound very appealing. At the moment I am struggling with how many 2/3 night stays we want to include in our itinerary. You point out that most can been seen on day trips from either Lisbon or Porto but we know from previous travels that in some locations you can have a much more meaningful experience by staying a couple of nights. But - we are a decade older than you and prefer not to rent a car or move around (changing accommodations) that frequently. So - we are thinking a week in Lisbon, a week in Porto - and possibly 2 or 3 shorter stays somewhere. Of the following locations - which do you think would be most meaningful for short stays vs day trips? Sintra, Evora, Coimbra, or Guimaraes? We are also considering staying in a Quinta along the Douro for a couple days of relaxation. As everyone has mentioned - your photographs are fabulous. Thank you so much for sharing them with us and providing meaningful details from your trip. I’m looking forward to the next installment!
