lvs

Well I planned the first 2 parts of our summer trip to France months ago and left 3 days open after that trying to decide what to do. I first thought about heading to Cahors from the Sarlat area but friends told us how beautiful the Gorges du Tarn area was, so I've been reconsidering.

Here's our itinerary to date:

first 3 nights St. Emilion (picking
up a rental car at Orly and
driving)
7 nights Sarlat
3 nights open
4 days Paris (probably driving back)

We would spend the first day after leaving Sarlat at Peche Merle (pending tickets available), Cirq-Lapopie, and Figeac, and then we could continue on to Conques or Rodez for that evening. For the next 2 days we thought about spending that time in the Gorges du Tarn area, perhaps staying around Ste Enimie. From there we would drive back to Paris.

Does anyone have opinions on this and does it make sense? Any other options for overnights that I'm missing.

Also, does anyone have an idea how long the drive from there would be back to Paris?

Thanks!
Linda

StuDudley

How much is set in concrete????

I think that's a lot of time in St Emilion. IMO it's only a 2-3 hr visit, and the surrounding area is not nearly as interesting as the Dordogne, Lot, Gorge du Tarn, or the Puy du Dome (all areas you'll be passing through).

If this was my trip, I'de somehow catch a TGV to Bordeaux or Libourne, then pick up a car & drive to St Emilion for 1 night. The 7 nights in the Dordogne, 1 night in Conques (not Rodez), 2 nights in St Enimie, then 2 nights in Besse en Chanduesse (or some other place close by) in the beautiful Puy du Dome. Then I would dump the car in Clermont Ferrand and take the 1:15pm train back to Paris - 3 1/2 hr trip. Much better than driving.

I would never attempt to drive from St Enimie into Paris - viamichelin says it's 6 hrs - what a waste of a day.

Stu Dudley

lvs

Hi Stu,

Thanks for a quick reponse.

The evenings in St. Emilion and Sarlat are pretty set with deposits in place. By the time our flight arrives in Orly (about 11:30 am) and we get to Bordeaux the day is pretty shot. So that leaves just 2 days in the Bordeaux area. We enjoy wine so we were planning on visiting a couple of regions around Bordeaux and then heading toward Sarlat the following morning. Didn't semm like too much time.

Is there a TGV that we can pick up at the Orly airport that goes to Bordeaux? I couldn't find one on the internet. The connecting flight was over 4 hours after we arrive in Orly so it seemed to make sense to just drive.

Any suggestions where to stay in Conques?

Don't see how we could fit the Puy du Dome in unless we only stayed one night in the Tarn. Do you think that is preferable?

If not and we return to Paris from the Tarn area is there a good train connection nearby to take us to Paris? If not, does it still make sense to drive to Clermont Ferrand from the Tarn? How long is that?

Thanks,
Linda

StuDudley

Only 3 nights that far south doesn't leave you with too many options if you head due east after the Dordogne. Train connections from the Gorge du Tarn area are not very great. I didn't check too much, but from Millau or Rodez it's really not practical to catch a train back to Paris or to drive.

I love the Gorge du Tarn. but with your schedule I'de probably save that for another trip.

What I would probably do is to not really leave the Dordogne area, and make it back to Paris on the train from Brive la Gaillard - where there is a 4 hr train that leaves at 2:45pm. You could spent the last 3 nights visiting sites that are a little too far east from Sarlat to do on a single day trip from Sarlat.

I would leave Sarlat & visit Peche Merle, St Cirq Lapopie, and then take the lovely Cele River to Figeac. Then stay in Rocamadour for 1 night - getting there late in the day to avoid the hoards of tourists. Next day visit Rocamadour some more, then the Gouffre de Padirac, then some of the villages around the Dordogne River - Carrenac, Loubressac, Autoire, Montal (chateau), Castelnau Brentoux (chateau), and stay 2 nights in the Collognes la Rouge area. From Collognes, visit Turenne, Meyssac, Martel, & a cave in that area (forgot the name). Next morning visit anyplace near Collognes you missed, and make the short drive to Brive to pick up a early afternoon train for Paris.

Stu Dudley

StCirq

Well, 3 nights in St-Emilion is 3 nights too many, IMHO. If nothing else, I'd spend them in Bordeaux. St-Emilion is a bit of a snore IMO, and an overpiced one, too. The monolithic church is cool, and there are some neat restaurants tourists don't usually find that are very special, but 3 nights there? Would make me crazy. I'd totally rethink that.

After 7 nights in Sarlat, I agree with Stu: stay in the area. Go to Figéac and St-Célé and Rocamadour and Gouffre de Padirac and Martel and Collonge-la-Rouge and, yes, St-Cirq-Lapopie (holding nose), and Rodez and Villefranche-de-Rouergue and take the train back from Clermont or some major city. You could probably hightail it to the Gorges-du-Tarn from there in the time allotted, too. St-Enimie is a nice but peculiar place - you might want to stay in Florac or at the B&B I've mentioned on occasion just outside it.

lvs

OK OK I get the point about St. Emilion! It's just a place to sleep in the area and visit some wineries and chateaux for 2 days. In fact we've booked a hotel that Stu recommended on this site- Le Logis des Remparts. I thought St. Emilion made sense because when we leave we're closer to Sarlat than other towns in the Bordeaux region.

I can appreciate both of your suggestions to stay in the Dordogne. We usually travel in a compact area and like to really get the feel of a place. I guess I had assumed we would have enough time in the 7 nights to take in Rocomodour and the surrounding towns. If you both think that it is better to extend an additional 3 days we surely can reconsider (although the Tarn seemed so tempting).

St.Circ, you recommmended shooting down to the Tarn for a day- from where? Rocomodor?

So, if we were to spend one night in Rocomodour- where should we stay?

And if we were to spend 2 nights in Collonges la Rouge- where should we stay?

I have a few other questions:

Is there a TGV from Orly? Didn't get an answer on that. If not, does it make sense to take a train from Orly (f there is one) to another train which goes into Bordeaux? Coudn't we be half way to Bordeaux by car by then?

Is it possible to make a reservation for Lascaux II or Peche Merle by email? I couldn't find a way to do that. For Lascaux the only thing I have read is that you have to pick up tickets in person in a nearby town, and for Peche Merle you can call to make a reservation but their site doesn't seem to allow for an email reservation. My French being only fair, I was concerned to try and do that by phone. I was able to book a reservation by email for Font de Gaume so that is taken care of.

Thanks again,
Linda

StCirq

<<St.Circ, you recommmended shooting down to the Tarn for a day- from where? Rocomodor?>>

You can't "shoot down to the Tarn" from Rocamadaour as far as I know. Check a map.

For Lascaux II reservations go online and make them now for an English tour. Also for all others that you might require English for.


So, if we were to spend one night in Rocomodour- where should we stay?

Outside the town in some quiet place where the Black Virgin won't bother you.

And if we were to spend 2 nights in Collonges la Rouge- where should we stay?

Oh God NO, don't spend 2 nights in Collonges-la-Rouge! You seem to have a penchant for bedding down in towns where nothing at all happens after sunset, when you could be moving on to towns where it's actually interesting to spend the night. You're NOT planning your trip well agt all. Collonges is worth about an hour....then move on.

No, there's no TVG from Orly.

I have a few other questions:

Is there a TGV from Orly? Didn't get an answer on that. If not, does it make sense to take a train from Orly (f there is one) to another train which goes into Bordeaux? Coudn't we be half way to Bordeaux by car by then?

Is it possible to make a reservation for Lascaux II or Peche Merle by email? I couldn't find a way to do that. For Lascaux the only thing I have read is that you have to pick up tickets in person in a nearby town, and for Peche Merle you can call to make a reservation but their site doesn't seem to allow for an email reservation. My French being only fair, I was concerned to try and do that by phone. I was able to book a reservation by email for Font de Gaume so that is taken care of.

Thanks again,
Linda





ou can't

lvs

OK StCirc, I appreciate your honesty! So if you had an additional 3 nights following 7 days in Sarlat where would you stay?

Regarding Lascaux II and Peche Merle, do you know the email address for the online sites where I can sign up for English tours

Linda

StuDudley

St Cirq, like myself, stays mostly in houses when in the Dordogne (she actually has a second home there - we stay in rented Gites). So, we're really not the best source for suggesting specific hotels. There have been lots of recommendations on this site for hotels in the Rodamacour area. I suggested the Collognes area bcause it's central for seeing the sites in that region, and also getting to Brive for your trainn to Paris. There's nothing going on in the town, however, but that sometimes is a good thing after staying in Sarlat & Rocamadour. The michelin Guide lists 1 hotel/restaurant in Collognes and also a B&B (unusual for mishelin to list a B&B, so it must be pretty good). There is also a restaurant with rooms in Turenne - which is very close to Collognes. Turenne is actually on the cover of the hardbound book "The Most Beautiful Villages of France". There is a B&B in Turenne also.

We've spent 8-9 weeks vacationing in the Dordogne, 2 weeks vacationing just southh o cahors, and 2 weeks just west of the Gorge du Tarn. I would notaattampt a day-trip to the Gorge from the Rocamadout/Collognes area - just too far & the Gorge really needs some time. We stayed close to it and tok two dy-trips there - to see it with different sunlight exposures. There are several caves there which we did not visit on these day trips, because we've seen them on other passes through this area..

You need to learn how to use some very helpful sites:

http://www.reiseauskunft.bahn.de/bin/query.exe/en

To determin train schedules. Note that dates are in DD/MM/YYYY format and you may have to put in your age .

www.viamichelin.com
to determine driving times between A & B, and also look up restaurants & hotels in a town or near the town. The ones I noted above will be in there. You can find their web sites & e-mail address, and a description by Michelin in English.

You will not run out of things to do in 7 day in the Dordogne. I always recommend staying east of Soulliac to visit Rocamadour, padirac, etc. because there is just too many neat things in this region & you won't wantr to make 3 day-trips there to see them. Get the Green Michelin Guide for info all the sites in this region in addition to the ones I've mentioned.

Visiting Perigueux, Brantome, Hautefort, Jumilhac, Grottes des Villars, Puyguilhem, St Jean de Cole, and Bourdeilles are in the same "dilemma" as the Padirac/Rocamadour area - too many things to see on a day trip & too much driving for 2-3 day-trips. When we were in the Dordogne near Domme for 4 weeks in '06, we did an overnight to Brantome to visit these sites.

Do you have my 20 page itinerary for visiting the Dordogne? E-mail me at [email protected] if you want a copy (it's free). Do so soon because we leave for 6 weeks in France on June 20.

Stu Dudley

StCirq

One hotel I actually can recommend not too far from Rocamadour is Domaine de la Rhue, a wonderful B&B owned and operated by a Dutch family (or at least that was the case a few years ago).

As far as I know you need to call or fax Lascaux and Peche Merle for reservations. There used to be a website you could use, but I can no longer find it. Alternatively, for Lascaux at least, you can reserve in advance through an outfit called Semitours. I suspect they inflate the price, though. If you need an English-language tour for either or both, be sure to specify that.

StuDudley

When you use www.viamichelin.com to determine driving times to/from Sarlat or restaurants in/near Sarlat - remember the real name of Sarlat is "Sarlat la Caneda". If you use only "Sarlat" you'll get info about some other city named Sarlat.

Stu Dudley

lvs

Thanks Stu and St.Cirq. I'll get to work on your recommendations. I do have your itinerary, Stu. It has been very helpful!

Linda

zunrise

Having just returned from an 18 day Provence/Dordogne trip, via the Tarn, I would highly recommend the B & B Castelou Pelies, run by a lovely British couple, Carol & Roger Bell. Clean room, overlooking the river, powerful hot shower and they serve a generous breakfast. It was 60E per night for the room including breakie. Website is www.aveyronchambre.com.
I also prebooked (in May it was not necessary but).. Peche Merle at [email protected]
and the Font de Gaume at [email protected].
Note Peche Merle required prepayment by credit card.
You will enjoy the drive, beautiful country and lovely views.
Regards,
Zunrise

lvs

Thanks Zunrise for the suggestions. I emailed Roger Bell but unfortunately his b&b is filled.

We've had a bit of a change in our itinerary for our next 3 days upon leaving Sarlat. Here is our initial plan:

day 1: touring Peche Merle, Figiac and St. Circ Lapopie on to Conques or Estaing for overnight.

days 2 and 3: we leave for Cap d'Agda on the Mediterranean coast about 30 minutes south of Montpellier where we will stay with friends for 2 nights.

day 4: Paris either by train from Montpellier or car

Our goal is to travel through the Tarn enroute to Cap D'Agda to get a first time look at it.

So I have a few questions:

Does it make sense to overnight near Conques or Estaing the first night? Would that give us enough time to explore Peche Merle, Figiac, St. Circ, Conques/Estaing?

How much time will it take to get to the Tarn from Conques/Estaing?

How long will it take to get to Montpellier and the coast from the Tarn if we want to have a leisurely drive?

If there is a better location to overnight on day 1 please advise. We are really down to the wire now to find a place to stay that one night!

Thanks,
Linda

Lexma90

Re making reservations for Pech Merle, we used the following website for our visit in 2007; the website appears to stil be active, and has a link for on-line reservations: http://www.quercy.net/pechmerle/english/visite.html.

While I haven't visited Figeac, Pech Merle and St Cirq LaPopie are very close to each other. St Cirq LaPopie was a bit cutesy, but made for a good lunch stop after our morning reservation at Pech Merle.

On St. Emilion, we stayed there on the way to the Dordogne on one trip (one night). It was nice enough, and has several very good restaurants, as you probably already know. We stayed at the same hotel you will be at, and found it very nice. There's a comfortable terrace out back. I don't know a huge amount on visiting the vineyards in the area, other than for the biggies, you can't just waltz in for a visit. You'll have to get someone to arrange visits beforehand; ask your hotel if they have the connections to do that.

There are several good caves in St. Emilion; we enjoyed Ets Martin, at 25 rue Guadet. My notes say that the proprietor of the wine we happened to be buying stopped in the cave during our purchase, so we got meet him. Also, Chateau la Gaffeliere, just outside St. Emilion was open, so we visited there.