I'm trying to refine details for early June, and have 3 days to split between Cordoba & Granada. Currently planning 1 night & 1 day in Cordoba, then train to Granada for 2 nights, leaving Granada late (10 pm) via Vueling to Barcelona. There is NEVER enough time, but... am I better with current plan, or do experienced Fodorites suggest 2 nites/days for Cordoba & 1 for Granada? A couple friends said allow only 1 day for Granada. Since the only flight out is late evening, we would have a very full day, including time for early evening tapas. Thanks for your thoughts/advice.

Do you have 3 nights in total to stay in hotels?
Or are you counting the late night in Granada as a night?

If you have 3 total nights I'd split 1 night Cordoba and 2 in Granada. DOn't know your entire itinerary but if you're staying in Sevilla you could do Cordoba as a daytrip thus avoiding a 1-nighter or visit in between.

I think you could enjoy your time either way - I spent 2 full days in each and enjoyed myself immensely. But I'm one of many on this board who strongly recommend visiting the Alhambra twice, once during the day, when everything is open and when many people are then, and then again at night, when only a few people are allowed in and only the Nasrid Palace is open - utterly magical! So I'd recommend the plan that gives you enough time in Granada to do that. Be sure to reserve your tickets for the Alhambra in advance.

Enjoy!

Stick with your plan of two nights in Granada. I did one in Cordoba. It was fine. The mosque is amazing, but a day and evening was enough. I did three in Granada, would have loved more, and hope to go back. The whole area is beautiful with lovely views over the mountains, etc. Early June, the gardens should still be in full bloom. Just thinking about it makes me want to be there again.

Also agree with CathyM. If you are going to be in Seville, then do Cordoba as a day trip.

Thanks for the good advice.

Cathy M - sorry I wasn't clear. Planning to arrive 7-8 pm Cordoba, spend the next day, then the only evening train to Granada (9:30 pm arrival). We will spend next day, next night, and following day, leaving Granada late on the 2nd evening. That is unless we switch and spend 2 nites & days in Cordoba & only 1 in Granada!

Considered Cordoba as day trip, but logistics work better for me to stay in Cordoba. Train from Seville-Granada requires change in Cordoba anyway, and makes that trip even longer. We have experience with living out of a suitcase, and don't mind moving to Cordoba. Plus staying in Cordoba gives an opportunity to see dine & stroll at night. I do like the suggestion to visit the Alhambra at night, which I'd not considered. Thanks kja! And I will definitely reserve Alhambra tix in advance, probably for opening time.

Thanks again.

Thanks for clarifying - with 3 nights I definately think the 2 nights Granada, 1 Cordoba is best.

However, I'm a little confused about your comment on the train requiring change in Cordoba. I'm not aware that the train from Sevilla to Granada stops in Cordoba. You can take a bus or train from Sevilla to Granada - either way it's about 3 hours. Neither option goes through Cordoba, as far as I'm aware. If you wanted to avoid a 1-nighter in Cordoba you could take a train in the morning from Sevilla to Cordoba, put your luggage in storage at the bus station (directly across from the train station), and then take a bus or train to Granada after visiting Cordoba all day. Honestly there's alot more going on in Sevilla (or Granada) at night versus Cordoba.

Definately make a night visit to the Alhambra - it's a totally different feeling than during the day, even the colors look different.

In that case, definitely do the two nights in Granada. As it is, you will have only one full day and most of the second. Otherwise, you would have only part of the first day after travelling from Cordoba, and part of the second before departing Granada. Don't rush the Alhambra visit.

Splitting between Córdoba and Granada would be fine, but Córdoba is MUCH more than usually gets out on this forum.

Yesterday the major Andalusian TV network Canal Sur had a 40 min program of the Córdoba caliphate "one of the most extraordinary epochs in our land" of which the traces can be very much both seen, tasted and experienced even in the Andalucía of today. The program can be seen on-line in short on the Canal Sur website, and here is a small introduction of the program for those who read Spanish: http://www.canalsur.es/portal_rtva/i...icia?id=169025

Read up on the fascinating history and prepeare to dig into not only the main tourist attractions. I visited this summer and had some fabulous days, great concert at Gran Teatro de Córdoba, long walks in what used to be the capital of al-Andalus and the most advanced city in the Western world, great tabernas, bars and cafés. And, of course, quite spectacular sights.

Lots of cultural events in June. The all night flamenco fiesta in late June attracts the world's greatest flamenco artists and puts the city, the plazas, the theaters and the people upside down until the light of day (Noche blanca del flamenco/Flamenco white night).

The "other" Córdoba around Plaza de las Tendillas, the Plaza Mayor-like Plaza de la Corredera, the Roman ruins etc can be highly recommended. All very close to the main tourist attractions but a totally different and more local atmosphere. Bustling outdoor cafés long into the night.

Several fine bodegas/tabernas in this area. Here you'll find great local places on every corner. Had some excellent meals in a couple of them recently. Taberna Salinas comes recommended in the Michelin guide, and we were perfectly happy after two raciones, a bottle of wine and a couple of brandys for some 35€. http://www.tabernasalinas.com/

Felt immediately at home in Plaza de las Tendillas. The thousands of people gathering here for the midnight eating of the grapes on New Years eve is traditionally directly televised on national tv. The clock on Plaza de las Tendillas has got no bells. Since 1961 the hours has been chimed in by recorded flamenco chords from the guitarist Juanito Serrano. Great atmospehere and good spirit well into the small hours, at least in the week-ends. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fexMbX4EsRE&NR=1

We lived in modern Hotel Córdoba Centro, some 300 meters north of the Mezquita, next door to the main Tendillas Plaza. Some 60€ for a double. Can warmly recommend it. http://www.booking.com/hotel/es/cord...?rid=702348143

And perhaps visit the 10th century Palace city Madinat al-Zahra just outside town? http://www.andalucia.com/magazine/en...d4/madinat.htm

I highly recommend you see the Alhambra at night. Also make a point of tourist the gardens in the morning, while it is still cool, on a separate visit.

Wow, thanks for all of the great info! As usual, it's hard to choose how to split the time, but I think I will stay with my current plan, which is to allow 1 day for Cordoba & 2 for Granada. I don't mind the 1 nighter in Cordoba, and like being albe to walk around a bit before dinner, eat somewhere in Cordoba, and also wake up there the next morning. It's still limited time, but seems perferable to making it just a day stop off the train or bus. (I just revisited the Renfe site & see that there are now trains listed from Sevilla-Granada. When I first looked, I thought I had to stop in Cordoba, but either I misread or they schedule changed again!)

I think you will be happy with your decision. Granada was full of life on a cool, rainy tuesday night in November, so I can only imagine how vibrant it is in June. Two nights there would be great.

I agree that so many people delegate Cordoba to a quick day trip from Sevilla and has a lot more to offer than just the Mesquita. The problem is that most people have limited time and have to choose between Sevilla, Granada & Cordoba. Given the choice of these 3 personally I'd advise someone who is on a first trip to Andalucia to focus on Sevilla and Granada. If there's time for all 3 that would be the best scenario, of course. But unfortunately this is why Cordoba usually becomes a day trip.

Thanks, Cathy M. Allocating time between so many amazing places is always hard. Currently, we'll have 2 full days in Seville, 1 in Cordoba, then 2 in Granada. Many have suggested the day trip from Seville, but I feel really strongly about spending the night in Cordoba. Fortunately we've many trips where we've moved ever day or every other day, so when necessary, we don't give it a thought. There are always trade offs, but all of your comments make me feel that while not perfect, out current 2-1-2 is a reasonable plan to maximize our limited time in Spain. Thanks all!

One more thought/question (kja & CathM)- will I need to purchase 2 separate tickets for the Alhambra? One for opening time in the morning, and then another for the evening? And another (probably stupid) question: How long do you suggest for the evening return visit? I am trying to balance competing interests: evening at Alhambra / dining & strolling through Granada city streets. Need to have an idea on whether I should figure on 1 hour or 3 @ the Alhambra at night. If you can give me your thoughts, I'd appreciate it. Thanks so much for taking so much time for my questions!

Yes, you'll need to purchase 2 separate tickets. I believe the booking site for the Alhambra tickets also has it set up this way. I'm probably not the best person to ask about the Alhambra night visit as I did this visit 10 years ago and it was unfortunately raining so we probably visited more quickly (one hour) than if it had been nice weather.

I totally understand wanting to spend the night in Cordoba. You know your trip style more than anyone. My comment above was more in agreement with kimhe that Cordoba has alot to offer.

yes, you do need a separate ticket for the alhambra at night. the way the tickets for both night and day work is that you are given a time for your entry to the Nasrid Palaces and you have to arrive at the entrance to the Palaces [which is about a 15 minute stroll from the ticket offices] within 30 mins of that time.

during the evening, only the Nasrid palaces and a few shops on the way to them are open. so your visit will last as long as the walk to and from the palaces, plus as long as you spend in there. reckon 90 mins to 2 hours - the palaces are very beautiful when they are lit up. this being southern Spain, however late you come out, you will be able to get a meal.

in the day, there are loads of other things to see besides the Nasrid palaces, including the Generalife gardens. However, the way it is laid out, it seemed easier to see the Generalife at the end, so you can tour main site including the palaces, then make for the Generalife. the whole lot took us about 6 hours, which again was very convenient for having what was for us a late lunch when we came out!

Great info - thanks ladies! So daytime plan would be to do a cursory pass through Nasrid Palaces, concentrate of the rest of the property, and return for detailed look at the Palaces at night? I really appreciate the benefit of your experience - thank you!

So daytime plan would be to do a cursory pass through Nasrid Palaces, concentrate of the rest of the property, and return for detailed look at the Palaces at night? >>

well you could do that, but please don't by-pass them altogether during the day, because they are still well worth a look. in fact we did the night-time visit first, so that the next day we were not too disappointed when the palaces were crowded and we decided we'd spent enough time there.

Like annhig, I wouldn't do just a cursory pass through the Nasrid Palace during the day - to me, seeing things in different lights was a source of fascination. Too, I used the audio-guide during the day, and I wanted to take full advantage of it. BTW, I thought it quite good, but it's been a while since I was there. I don't think the audioguide is available at night, and honestly, I hope it isn't - part of what made the place so special at night is how quiet it was - quiet enough for me to hear the fountains! Many people who visited the evening that I was there left after about an hour. I loved the hour after that - there were just a few people who stayed and as I said, all were very quiet. So I agree with annhig - at least 90 minutes, maybe 2 hours for your evening visit.

As I recall, my daytime slot was the 1st of the afternoon session, which I think meant that I had about 4 hours to explore. I ran out of time. People who go in the afternoon MUST leave when it closes at the end of the day (before the evening opening), but I think people who come in the morning can now stay through the afternoon if they so choose. The web site might provide information about that.

I think your division of time is well considered. Cordoba is underrated! And I had truly wonderful meals there. Unfortunately, that was WAY too long ago to feel confident making recommendations. I will, however, recommend the Palacio de Viana, a wonderful "musuem" of patios - a well restored palace with (as I recall) 9 different courtyards in different styles.

Enjoy!

Your help/suggestions is really invaluable. A full day will be devoted - nothing we will rush off to next. Whenever we finish, we finish. Some wine, a siesta, shower and back a couple hours before dinner. I would never have considered - so again, thank you for sharing your experience. I am so looking forward to this trip!