23 Days in Northern Greece, Peloponesse, Athens
Oct 16th, 2021, 08:48 AM
#21
Our Greek friends told us Mystras was a mandatory stop too! We enjoyed our time exploring there too.Byzantine architecture was a change from all the ancient Greek sites.
When we planned our first month long trip to Greece we used a travel agent in Athens for some parts of it . The one thing he emphasized was that driving in the Peloponnesean peninsula will take longer than you think as it is very mountainous. Google maps should have talked to him!
I am enjoying your trip report immensely!
When we planned our first month long trip to Greece we used a travel agent in Athens for some parts of it . The one thing he emphasized was that driving in the Peloponnesean peninsula will take longer than you think as it is very mountainous. Google maps should have talked to him!
I am enjoying your trip report immensely!
Oct 16th, 2021, 09:37 AM
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Thank you for all this information on Messene and Mystras - and the incredible photos too. Do you recall how long it took from Olympia to Messene and from Messene to Mystras? As a non-driver, I’ve thought about staying in Kalamata or Kardamyli and arranging taxis from there for both ancient sites.
Oct 16th, 2021, 04:55 PM
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I understand what you are saying about driving through the mountains. I am terrified of mountain driving. This past August we were able to visit our daughter and her family who live in France. We hadn't seen them for 2 years because of COVID. Our daughter planned a 6-day trip through the French Alps. We had to take 2 cars. Our daughter and son-in-law did all the driving. I was a terrified passenger! I couldn't believe my daughter was able to drive on the very narrow and windy roads with so many switchbacks and sometimes no guardrails or any kind of protection. Many times we had to wait for a car to pass us because there wasn't room for 2 cars.
I admire you for driving through the mountains and for being a solo traveler. Do you often take solo trips?
I admire you for driving through the mountains and for being a solo traveler. Do you often take solo trips?
Oct 17th, 2021, 04:25 PM
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I understand what you are saying about driving through the mountains. I am terrified of mountain driving. This past August we were able to visit our daughter and her family who live in France. We hadn't seen them for 2 years because of COVID. Our daughter planned a 6-day trip through the French Alps. We had to take 2 cars. Our daughter and son-in-law did all the driving. I was a terrified passenger! I couldn't believe my daughter was able to drive on the very narrow and windy roads with so many switchbacks and sometimes no guardrails or any kind of protection. Many times we had to wait for a car to pass us because there wasn't room for 2 cars.
I admire you for driving through the mountains and for being a solo traveler. Do you often take solo trips?
I admire you for driving through the mountains and for being a solo traveler. Do you often take solo trips?
Thank you for all this information on Messene and Mystras - and the incredible photos too. Do you recall how long it took from Olympia to Messene and from Messene to Mystras? As a non-driver, I’ve thought about staying in Kalamata or Kardamyli and arranging taxis from there for both ancient sites.
Oct 17th, 2021, 04:45 PM
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Mykines (Mycenae)
Friday: My original plan was to spend the night in Monemvasia, but I wasn't looking forward to a single overnight followed by another long drive to Nafplio. I tried to shift around my dates in Nafplio and Athens, but the places I had were already booked. Mykines was a last minute addition to my route - I took what was available.
It turned out to be a pleasant stop. I arrived in time for lunch, and then drove to the site. I was very lucky to be the only visitor at "Agamemnon's Tomb." There were more tourists here than at most sites, but even still it wasn't crowded. There were a few nice pieces in the museum. I got a good sense for how different the Myceneans were from the Classical Greeks.
The Lion Gate
Scene from a Mycenean vase - possibly Achilles battling the Amazon Queen Penthisilea. This is much different iconography from what we see from the classical age!
I ate at the hotel - the owner's mother oversaw a feast for us! I had mostly been earing at tavernas; the food was always great, but usually so filling that I only ordered one main dish. it was a nice change to have a multi-course meal.
Appetizers: anchovies, tzatziki, gigantes beans
Salad
Perch
Desset: orange cake
I woke to a stunning sunrise - this turned out to be a nice stop!
Morning view
Final thoughts: Mycenae itself is a must see. There is not much to the town itself; it looks like it caters to coach tourists. I stayed at La Petite Planete. Mykines fit nicely into my schedule, and La Petire Planete is a solid option for those on a driving tour looking for a stop in the area. They also had a parking lot for busses and dining room made for large groups - I wonder if they would still serve such great dinners when mass-tourism returns.
It was hard dropping Monemvasia from my schedule. If I had someone to share the driving with I would have still gone. It's definitely on my list of places to spend time in when I return. I also suspect that I would enjoy two nights there - I like to take my time and linger.
Friday: My original plan was to spend the night in Monemvasia, but I wasn't looking forward to a single overnight followed by another long drive to Nafplio. I tried to shift around my dates in Nafplio and Athens, but the places I had were already booked. Mykines was a last minute addition to my route - I took what was available.
It turned out to be a pleasant stop. I arrived in time for lunch, and then drove to the site. I was very lucky to be the only visitor at "Agamemnon's Tomb." There were more tourists here than at most sites, but even still it wasn't crowded. There were a few nice pieces in the museum. I got a good sense for how different the Myceneans were from the Classical Greeks.
The Lion Gate
Scene from a Mycenean vase - possibly Achilles battling the Amazon Queen Penthisilea. This is much different iconography from what we see from the classical age!
I ate at the hotel - the owner's mother oversaw a feast for us! I had mostly been earing at tavernas; the food was always great, but usually so filling that I only ordered one main dish. it was a nice change to have a multi-course meal.
Appetizers: anchovies, tzatziki, gigantes beans
Salad
Perch
Desset: orange cake
I woke to a stunning sunrise - this turned out to be a nice stop!
Morning view
Final thoughts: Mycenae itself is a must see. There is not much to the town itself; it looks like it caters to coach tourists. I stayed at La Petite Planete. Mykines fit nicely into my schedule, and La Petire Planete is a solid option for those on a driving tour looking for a stop in the area. They also had a parking lot for busses and dining room made for large groups - I wonder if they would still serve such great dinners when mass-tourism returns.
It was hard dropping Monemvasia from my schedule. If I had someone to share the driving with I would have still gone. It's definitely on my list of places to spend time in when I return. I also suspect that I would enjoy two nights there - I like to take my time and linger.
Last edited by michael_cain_77398; Oct 17th, 2021 at 04:48 PM.
Oct 17th, 2021, 10:14 PM
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Nafplio
I spent four days in Nafplio. I'd been on the road for five weeks already (I'd already spent three weeks in France, trip report pending), so it was time to slow down and take a break. Nafplio was a beautiful town to do it in, though I also started to feel a bit listless. The town was packed with couples and families, most of them from other parts of Greece. There didn't seem to be many foreign tourists. I enjoyed Nafplio, but it would have been nice to have been with friends or a partner. It was the first time I started to feel lonely - probably from being around all the couples having romantic dinners!
Saturday: I stopped by Epidaurus en route. The theater really was stunning. The Askeplion was disappointing, especially after all the other great sites I'd visited. There isn't much left beyond the foundations of the buildings, and the descriptions of the ruins weren't very dynamic. This was a major sanctuary in the classical age; I wish there had been more to bring the past alive. I didn't do much in Nafplio that afternoon beyond walk around.
Sunday: I took a walk along the coast to Karathonas Beach. The walk was very nice. The beach ... I'm spoiled for beaches where I live, so I didn't do much more than have a quick swim, grab a beer, and walk back. All in all it was a very lazy Sunday.
Along the coastal path
Monday: Today I went uphill, to the Palamidi Fortress. This is worth doing, if for nothing else than the exercise and the views! Afterwards I went to the museum. I was planning to dedicate a solid afternoon here, but it wasn't as extensive as I thought.
There were close to 1000 stairs - I don't think anyone agrees on the exact number
Tuesday: I'm running out of things to do at this point! I've had my relaxing days, and I had friends waiting in Athens. I did the short drive to Tiryns, a Mycenean citadel just outside of town. I spent the afternoon at Arvanitias Beach, which is only a ten or fifteen minute walk from the center. It's a rocky beach bounded by some derelict buildings which I assume were former clubs or restaurants. I've seen it listed as one of the "best beaches in Greece," which cannot possibly be true.
Final thoughts: If this had been my first stop I probably would have wanted to explore all the sites in the area - Nemea, Argos, Asine, etc. If I were with friends I could have easily spent long afternoons at cafes. As it was, three days would have been enough.
I stayed at the Nasfimedon Hotel, which occupies a historic mansion close to the center. This was lovely.
The Nasfimedon
I spent four days in Nafplio. I'd been on the road for five weeks already (I'd already spent three weeks in France, trip report pending), so it was time to slow down and take a break. Nafplio was a beautiful town to do it in, though I also started to feel a bit listless. The town was packed with couples and families, most of them from other parts of Greece. There didn't seem to be many foreign tourists. I enjoyed Nafplio, but it would have been nice to have been with friends or a partner. It was the first time I started to feel lonely - probably from being around all the couples having romantic dinners!
Saturday: I stopped by Epidaurus en route. The theater really was stunning. The Askeplion was disappointing, especially after all the other great sites I'd visited. There isn't much left beyond the foundations of the buildings, and the descriptions of the ruins weren't very dynamic. This was a major sanctuary in the classical age; I wish there had been more to bring the past alive. I didn't do much in Nafplio that afternoon beyond walk around.
Sunday: I took a walk along the coast to Karathonas Beach. The walk was very nice. The beach ... I'm spoiled for beaches where I live, so I didn't do much more than have a quick swim, grab a beer, and walk back. All in all it was a very lazy Sunday.
Along the coastal path
Monday: Today I went uphill, to the Palamidi Fortress. This is worth doing, if for nothing else than the exercise and the views! Afterwards I went to the museum. I was planning to dedicate a solid afternoon here, but it wasn't as extensive as I thought.
There were close to 1000 stairs - I don't think anyone agrees on the exact number
Tuesday: I'm running out of things to do at this point! I've had my relaxing days, and I had friends waiting in Athens. I did the short drive to Tiryns, a Mycenean citadel just outside of town. I spent the afternoon at Arvanitias Beach, which is only a ten or fifteen minute walk from the center. It's a rocky beach bounded by some derelict buildings which I assume were former clubs or restaurants. I've seen it listed as one of the "best beaches in Greece," which cannot possibly be true.
Final thoughts: If this had been my first stop I probably would have wanted to explore all the sites in the area - Nemea, Argos, Asine, etc. If I were with friends I could have easily spent long afternoons at cafes. As it was, three days would have been enough.
I stayed at the Nasfimedon Hotel, which occupies a historic mansion close to the center. This was lovely.
The Nasfimedon
Oct 18th, 2021, 01:46 PM
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Athens
And finally, Athens! I met up with a friend here, and it was the first visit for both of us. It's now the second week of October, and almost on-cue the weather has shifted. We had a couple of hours of rain at some point each day or evening, which slowed down our explorations, especially in the evening. Instead of walking to far we mostly spent our nights in the Psyrri / Monostraki area where we were staying. The streets were packed with tavernas and clubs; it felt like all of Athens must go there for dinner.
Wednesday: The trip from Naflpio to Athens seemed like it took forever! First my car's navigation system took me on a "faster" route along rural roads out of Nafplio. There was nothing stressful, but it also wasn't fast. At Corinth I finally rejoined the main road, and from here on out it was just tiring. I had no problem returning the car, but did have to wait a bit for a shuttle to the airport to catch a taxi. Then there was an accident on the road & we were stuck in traffic for an hour. Then we had to find an ATM ... and everyone we stopped at was out of service. My plan was to arrive in Athens by noon, but I didn't arrive at my place until 3 pm. It wasn't a stressful day - these are all normal travel misadventures - but I was beat!
Rather than go day by day (there will be a lot of and then we sat in a cafe waiting for the rain to pass) I'll just offer my personal take on the major sites:
Acropolis: As expected, it was fantastic. Surprisingly, an hour was enough on the summit. I loved seeing the Acropolis from different angles throughout the day.
Agora: We spent a pleasant morning wandering around here. A lot of the must-see sites in Athens were clustered together, so like the Acropolis it took less time to explore than I was expecting.
Areopagus Hill: A great place to watch the sunset. Very popular, too.
Sunset from Areopagus
Filopappou Hill: There is a network of trails that were fun to explore. This was the site of many of Athen's original demes, which are like smaller villages that make up the polis. It is also the site where Theseus battled the Amazons when they tried to conquer Athens. If you like history, this is worth a morning or afternoon. It gave me a better sense of how the original city was laid out ... I didn't realize how separate the demes were from each other. We had the best views of the Acropolis from here, and you could see all the way to the coast.
A deme in the archaic age
Acropolis view
The deme today - you can see the rut marks from the wagons in the stone
The National Archaeology Museum: There were some important works here, and it is worth a visit, but was also somewhat disappointing. I was expecting more from the "National" museum. The general layout and presentation (lighting, sound, descriptions) were not inspiring. The descriptions were black print on grey backgrounds, and often places low to the ground. I'd squat down to read them, and my shadow would then block the text. And then the text itself would often turn out to be dull. For example, there was a statute of a young boy with a dog. I squatted down to read the description, which told me that it was a statue of a young boy with a dog. Ugh.
It's worth a visit, but it pales in comparison to the national museums of other countries, or even to the archaeological museums in Saloniki, Delphi, Olympia, and Delos. Given Greece's history, this should be one of the premier archaeological museums in the world.
The Acropolis Museum: This had an infinitely better design and presentation than the National Musuem. I admired the way the top floor recreated the panels on top of the Acropolis. Most of it was plaster casts, as a certain Lord E had taken most of the panels to London. There was one marble panel that was discovered later; when this is set side-by-side with the plaster casts you realize the scale of the cultural loss that occurred.
Apollo and Poseidon, one of the few marbles from the Parthenon still in Greece
The Churches:We poked our heads in a lot of the Orthodox churches we passed. They were all nice, but none had the scale or grandeur of the great churches in Thessaloniki.
.
Covid Testing: We got tested through Homed, which has a clinic at 18 Ermou Street. It was very efficient, and we got our tests around 9 pm of the same day as we had tested. In terms of restrictions, you needed to show proof of vaccination to enter museums and to dine inside, but not to dine outside. I had a French passe sanitaire that was accepted everywhere, my buddy had his American CDC card.
Restaurants
Usually I plot out restaurants in different neighborhoods, and have a whole eating-itinerary planned in big cities. I didn't do any of that this time. We mostly ate at the tavernas in the Monostraki / Psyrri / Plaka area. Since this is also the tourist area, food was hit-or-miss. We never had a bad meal, but there were a few that were just average - especially compared to the home cooked taverna food I had had in the countryside.
There were two that stood out, though, and are worth bookmarking:
Antica Restaurant & Cafe - across from the Agora, and on a strip where all the restaurants had similar menus. This one stood out, as it offered dishes that went beyond gyros and souvlaki.
Grilled calamari with a fish roe and squid ink purée
Grilled octopus with a fava bean purée
Thes "Greek Creative Cuisine" - In the middle of Psirri, this could be considered "gourmet" taverna food. Reservations are recommended. We got lucky, or the host just liked our look, as he slipped us in without a reservation.
Chicken fillet with Metsovo smoked cheese and roasted potato cream
Codfish roe mousse with Symi shrimp
Final thoughts, Athens: You could probably "do" Athens in a day and a half -that would give you time for the Acropolis, Acropolis museum, the Agora, and a few meals. I try to spend a week in a major city, so for me 3 1/2 days felt short. I felt like I saw the major sites, but if I had a full week I would have explored other neighborhoods, visited the smaller museums, and possible explored the nightlife. I had originally wanted to check out the gay-oriented music clubs in the Gazi neighborhood --- but they didn't get going until after midnight, and I might be ageing out of that life style. As it was, I had no interest this trip.
Final thoughts, Greece: This was an ambitious schedule! I was trying to pack in a lot, without feeling rushed. For the most part I had a good balance. I learned a lot about my own pace for when I do a driving trip - most importantly, I don't like being on the road for more than two or three hours. But also - there is no way I could have done this trip without a car.
I travel solo a lot, but this trip I felt more "solo" than usual. I'm social, but not gregarious - I like meeting other travelers, but I'm not the kind of person who can go into a bar and come out with a dozen new acquaintances. Usually I'll chat with other travelers over breakfast, and sometimes you bond. That didn't happen this trip. Part of this, I suspect, was due to Covid. People stayed in their own pods. Partly there just weren't that many solo travelers; I mostly saw couples or other families.
There is nothing I would have cut. At the most, I would have subtracted a day in Nafplio and added one to Athens. If I knew how nervous mountain driving made me I would have stayed in Ioannina rather than Monodendri - but I had to learn that lesson the hard way.
There is so much I would still like to see, especially in the Peloponesse: I think an overnight in Corinth would be worthwhile. I want to go back and spend the night in Delphi. And there's Monemvasia, and the Mani Peninsula, and the Messene coast ... I suspect another trip is in order!
Thanks to everyone who liked these posts! I learn a lot from trip reports here, and I enjoy sharing mine.
And finally, Athens! I met up with a friend here, and it was the first visit for both of us. It's now the second week of October, and almost on-cue the weather has shifted. We had a couple of hours of rain at some point each day or evening, which slowed down our explorations, especially in the evening. Instead of walking to far we mostly spent our nights in the Psyrri / Monostraki area where we were staying. The streets were packed with tavernas and clubs; it felt like all of Athens must go there for dinner.
Wednesday: The trip from Naflpio to Athens seemed like it took forever! First my car's navigation system took me on a "faster" route along rural roads out of Nafplio. There was nothing stressful, but it also wasn't fast. At Corinth I finally rejoined the main road, and from here on out it was just tiring. I had no problem returning the car, but did have to wait a bit for a shuttle to the airport to catch a taxi. Then there was an accident on the road & we were stuck in traffic for an hour. Then we had to find an ATM ... and everyone we stopped at was out of service. My plan was to arrive in Athens by noon, but I didn't arrive at my place until 3 pm. It wasn't a stressful day - these are all normal travel misadventures - but I was beat!
Rather than go day by day (there will be a lot of and then we sat in a cafe waiting for the rain to pass) I'll just offer my personal take on the major sites:
Acropolis: As expected, it was fantastic. Surprisingly, an hour was enough on the summit. I loved seeing the Acropolis from different angles throughout the day.
Agora: We spent a pleasant morning wandering around here. A lot of the must-see sites in Athens were clustered together, so like the Acropolis it took less time to explore than I was expecting.
Areopagus Hill: A great place to watch the sunset. Very popular, too.
Sunset from Areopagus
Filopappou Hill: There is a network of trails that were fun to explore. This was the site of many of Athen's original demes, which are like smaller villages that make up the polis. It is also the site where Theseus battled the Amazons when they tried to conquer Athens. If you like history, this is worth a morning or afternoon. It gave me a better sense of how the original city was laid out ... I didn't realize how separate the demes were from each other. We had the best views of the Acropolis from here, and you could see all the way to the coast.
A deme in the archaic age
Acropolis view
The deme today - you can see the rut marks from the wagons in the stone
The National Archaeology Museum: There were some important works here, and it is worth a visit, but was also somewhat disappointing. I was expecting more from the "National" museum. The general layout and presentation (lighting, sound, descriptions) were not inspiring. The descriptions were black print on grey backgrounds, and often places low to the ground. I'd squat down to read them, and my shadow would then block the text. And then the text itself would often turn out to be dull. For example, there was a statute of a young boy with a dog. I squatted down to read the description, which told me that it was a statue of a young boy with a dog. Ugh.
It's worth a visit, but it pales in comparison to the national museums of other countries, or even to the archaeological museums in Saloniki, Delphi, Olympia, and Delos. Given Greece's history, this should be one of the premier archaeological museums in the world.
The Acropolis Museum: This had an infinitely better design and presentation than the National Musuem. I admired the way the top floor recreated the panels on top of the Acropolis. Most of it was plaster casts, as a certain Lord E had taken most of the panels to London. There was one marble panel that was discovered later; when this is set side-by-side with the plaster casts you realize the scale of the cultural loss that occurred.
Apollo and Poseidon, one of the few marbles from the Parthenon still in Greece
The Churches:We poked our heads in a lot of the Orthodox churches we passed. They were all nice, but none had the scale or grandeur of the great churches in Thessaloniki.
.
Covid Testing: We got tested through Homed, which has a clinic at 18 Ermou Street. It was very efficient, and we got our tests around 9 pm of the same day as we had tested. In terms of restrictions, you needed to show proof of vaccination to enter museums and to dine inside, but not to dine outside. I had a French passe sanitaire that was accepted everywhere, my buddy had his American CDC card.
Restaurants
Usually I plot out restaurants in different neighborhoods, and have a whole eating-itinerary planned in big cities. I didn't do any of that this time. We mostly ate at the tavernas in the Monostraki / Psyrri / Plaka area. Since this is also the tourist area, food was hit-or-miss. We never had a bad meal, but there were a few that were just average - especially compared to the home cooked taverna food I had had in the countryside.
There were two that stood out, though, and are worth bookmarking:
Antica Restaurant & Cafe - across from the Agora, and on a strip where all the restaurants had similar menus. This one stood out, as it offered dishes that went beyond gyros and souvlaki.
Grilled calamari with a fish roe and squid ink purée
Grilled octopus with a fava bean purée
Thes "Greek Creative Cuisine" - In the middle of Psirri, this could be considered "gourmet" taverna food. Reservations are recommended. We got lucky, or the host just liked our look, as he slipped us in without a reservation.
Chicken fillet with Metsovo smoked cheese and roasted potato cream
Codfish roe mousse with Symi shrimp
Final thoughts, Athens: You could probably "do" Athens in a day and a half -that would give you time for the Acropolis, Acropolis museum, the Agora, and a few meals. I try to spend a week in a major city, so for me 3 1/2 days felt short. I felt like I saw the major sites, but if I had a full week I would have explored other neighborhoods, visited the smaller museums, and possible explored the nightlife. I had originally wanted to check out the gay-oriented music clubs in the Gazi neighborhood --- but they didn't get going until after midnight, and I might be ageing out of that life style. As it was, I had no interest this trip.
Final thoughts, Greece: This was an ambitious schedule! I was trying to pack in a lot, without feeling rushed. For the most part I had a good balance. I learned a lot about my own pace for when I do a driving trip - most importantly, I don't like being on the road for more than two or three hours. But also - there is no way I could have done this trip without a car.
I travel solo a lot, but this trip I felt more "solo" than usual. I'm social, but not gregarious - I like meeting other travelers, but I'm not the kind of person who can go into a bar and come out with a dozen new acquaintances. Usually I'll chat with other travelers over breakfast, and sometimes you bond. That didn't happen this trip. Part of this, I suspect, was due to Covid. People stayed in their own pods. Partly there just weren't that many solo travelers; I mostly saw couples or other families.
There is nothing I would have cut. At the most, I would have subtracted a day in Nafplio and added one to Athens. If I knew how nervous mountain driving made me I would have stayed in Ioannina rather than Monodendri - but I had to learn that lesson the hard way.
There is so much I would still like to see, especially in the Peloponesse: I think an overnight in Corinth would be worthwhile. I want to go back and spend the night in Delphi. And there's Monemvasia, and the Mani Peninsula, and the Messene coast ... I suspect another trip is in order!
Thanks to everyone who liked these posts! I learn a lot from trip reports here, and I enjoy sharing mine.
Oct 18th, 2021, 01:53 PM
#32
Appreciate your summary and thoughts. I've been to Athens 2 times before and it doesn't do it fo rme. That said we will likely spend several night there on our trip in the spring, primarily to get over jetlag. So your suggestions will be useful. I know how time consuming writing TS can be so so know that your time was well spent -- I learned alot and got some good insights.
Oct 18th, 2021, 04:17 PM
#34
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That's probably the approach I'll take in the future too with Saloniki or Athens - it'll just be a layover for a few days. I don't envision doing a trip only for Athens. I do have friends in Turkey and Egypt, though, who visit regularly. They often stay on the coast, near Vouno. They tell me it's like "an island in the city." I haven't been, and I think that area is more expensive than downtown - but it's an option I'll explore next trip.
Oct 18th, 2021, 05:37 PM
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I enjoyed your report and photos! I definitely want to visit Nafplio when we go to Greece, hopefully in 2022. And we will spend 3 or 4 nights in Athens at the end of our trip. I was in Greece in 1972!!! I am definitely dating myself. I went with a group and it was my first international trip. We spent a week in Athens that included a few day trips, such as Delphi, Cape Sounion, and a day visiting Aegina Maria, Hydra and sailing past Poros. My husband has never been to Greece. We plan to visit a few islands. Was this your first trip to Greece? Do you plan on visiting any of the islands? When I was in Athens, people were still allowed to actually walk through the Parthenon!
Jun 9th, 2023, 10:07 AM
#37
I just found your trip report and love it! I’m hoping to visit the Pelopponese next spring so am saving this till I get around to serious planning. Lots of great info and I love your photos! This was also a trip I had planned but had to cancel because of the pandemic. Funnily enough, I was planning to stop in Marseille beforehand and fly to Salonica and recall wondering what it would be like to arrive at midnight - and now I know!
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