21 Nights in Italy-The Best Laid Plans
Oct 21st, 2009, 12:17 PM
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21 Nights in Italy-The Best Laid Plans
This is the trip report I promised and I hope I can remember to thank all of you Fodorites who so kindly helped me along the way.
Before we left the SF Bay Area for Italy we had unusual weather for September, there was thunder, lightning, and rain on Saturday the 12th. Was this a sign?
We arrived in Venice feeling pretty good considering we had such a long flight that included two stops. The day was overcast but warm. We purchased our 3 day vaporetto passes, some francoboli (stamps for the postcards we intended to send), and headed towards St. Mark's Square. I had convinced everyone, DH and our friends Russ and Maureen, that carry on was the way to go. I would not change this but gave it serious consideration after lugging my Rick Steves 19" and my big wonderful Ricardo tote bag up and over that first bridge! When we rounded the corner and came into St. Mark's Square it took my breath away. I was FINALLY here in Italy! I had been planning this trip for the last nine months. The square was crowded and we waded through the bizillion people towards our B & B. My internal GPS was working perfectly, but I stopped briefly just to make sure and asked a lovely waitress. Then after another bridge, we arrived at Corte Campana.
Before we left the SF Bay Area for Italy we had unusual weather for September, there was thunder, lightning, and rain on Saturday the 12th. Was this a sign?
We arrived in Venice feeling pretty good considering we had such a long flight that included two stops. The day was overcast but warm. We purchased our 3 day vaporetto passes, some francoboli (stamps for the postcards we intended to send), and headed towards St. Mark's Square. I had convinced everyone, DH and our friends Russ and Maureen, that carry on was the way to go. I would not change this but gave it serious consideration after lugging my Rick Steves 19" and my big wonderful Ricardo tote bag up and over that first bridge! When we rounded the corner and came into St. Mark's Square it took my breath away. I was FINALLY here in Italy! I had been planning this trip for the last nine months. The square was crowded and we waded through the bizillion people towards our B & B. My internal GPS was working perfectly, but I stopped briefly just to make sure and asked a lovely waitress. Then after another bridge, we arrived at Corte Campana.
Oct 21st, 2009, 02:36 PM
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bon_voyage - I'm just starting to gather my senses after being back at the grind for a couple of weeks. I will write more tonight from home so I can go through my notes.
zerlina-Of course the trip was wonderful! The best laid plans part are some of the many things I had on my list to see and do that did not pan out for one reason or another but that just leaves an opening for next time, right? The sign...weather is weather and out of our control so you just deal. I'll get more into details shortly, I promise!
zerlina-Of course the trip was wonderful! The best laid plans part are some of the many things I had on my list to see and do that did not pan out for one reason or another but that just leaves an opening for next time, right? The sign...weather is weather and out of our control so you just deal. I'll get more into details shortly, I promise!
Oct 21st, 2009, 06:03 PM
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I was so anxious to finally begin this post but I knew that having my notes from my journal handy would make it better. So, I begin again...
I was struck by the beauty of the architecture, so much Moorish influence. I was amazed too see that so many of the first floors that have sunk and are unusable. I saw a few however, that had been built up three to four feet higher so that even when the canals rise they remained untouched.
I have to interject and tell you all that about six weeks into my planning stages of this trip, we had to put down our family dog, Riley, a yellow lab. He would have been twelve years old five days after we put him down. It was the most humane thing for us to do considering he had a tumor on his spleen. However the grieving was so very difficult.
Back to Venice. We were on the #2 Alilaguna, admiring the beautiful palazzos when I saw a small gray motor boat with a father, his son, and their yellow lab. This was the first of many reminders on our trip of my dear pup, and I welcomed each and every one. On the #2 there was a group of young boys (ragazzi)that got on at one of the stops, and I must say that I absolutely LOVED listening to them speak their native tongue. They were talking and joking about their I phone covers and were adorable. I've been studying the Italian language for a couple of years now and I'm very grateful to know what I do at this point because it was so much fun speaking in Italy. Listening to the children, everywhere we went, was music to my ears.
Our arrival at Corte Campana was great. My friend, Maureen, pointed out that she had stayed previously at the Hotel Colombina, which shares a courtyard with Corte Campana. Our host Riccardo was fantastic, and helped us girls with our baggage up the four flights of stairs. He got us checked in, gave us some sage advice about not seeing Doges Palace in the morning but better at around four in the afternoon; Rialto Market in the morning, etc. He recommended a restaurant that in hindsight, I wish we would have tried for dinner, Osteria di Alberto. But it was only around 2:30 p.m. and we wanted to sit outside and enjoy some pizza and wine. We found a small square that had outside tables and did just that. Whew! We had arrived.
I can't believe I've written this much about just our first day! More to come...the skies opened up the next day!
I was struck by the beauty of the architecture, so much Moorish influence. I was amazed too see that so many of the first floors that have sunk and are unusable. I saw a few however, that had been built up three to four feet higher so that even when the canals rise they remained untouched.
I have to interject and tell you all that about six weeks into my planning stages of this trip, we had to put down our family dog, Riley, a yellow lab. He would have been twelve years old five days after we put him down. It was the most humane thing for us to do considering he had a tumor on his spleen. However the grieving was so very difficult.
Back to Venice. We were on the #2 Alilaguna, admiring the beautiful palazzos when I saw a small gray motor boat with a father, his son, and their yellow lab. This was the first of many reminders on our trip of my dear pup, and I welcomed each and every one. On the #2 there was a group of young boys (ragazzi)that got on at one of the stops, and I must say that I absolutely LOVED listening to them speak their native tongue. They were talking and joking about their I phone covers and were adorable. I've been studying the Italian language for a couple of years now and I'm very grateful to know what I do at this point because it was so much fun speaking in Italy. Listening to the children, everywhere we went, was music to my ears.
Our arrival at Corte Campana was great. My friend, Maureen, pointed out that she had stayed previously at the Hotel Colombina, which shares a courtyard with Corte Campana. Our host Riccardo was fantastic, and helped us girls with our baggage up the four flights of stairs. He got us checked in, gave us some sage advice about not seeing Doges Palace in the morning but better at around four in the afternoon; Rialto Market in the morning, etc. He recommended a restaurant that in hindsight, I wish we would have tried for dinner, Osteria di Alberto. But it was only around 2:30 p.m. and we wanted to sit outside and enjoy some pizza and wine. We found a small square that had outside tables and did just that. Whew! We had arrived.
I can't believe I've written this much about just our first day! More to come...the skies opened up the next day!
Oct 21st, 2009, 06:44 PM
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Hi Galestorm! I was hoping to find your trip report before we leave...We leave in just two days - a little over a day and a half, really. I remember counting down with you...Look out Roma, the hanabillies are on their way! I am anxious to hear about your Rome experiences! About it all//////1
Oct 22nd, 2009, 10:57 AM
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hanabilly - Yes I remember our count downs! I doubt I'll get to Rome in this report before you go but I really hope you have a fabulous time.
I didn't get everywhere I wanted to see but I LOVED our private tour of ancient Rome. I highly recommend our guide, Francesca Caruso, because she was so intuitive and really helped you visualize what it must have been like then. I have two e mail addresses for her but I have her card at home. I think the first address is one she is trying to discontinue - [email protected]. The second is probably the best - [email protected].
Definitely see and do as much as you can, eat gelato at the Frigidarium (and everywhere else!)across from Da Bafetto (good pizza, rude waiter). Be adventurous!
The public tranportation system, buses and the metro were easy to use.
I took around 800 pictures on this trip and I'm still trying to get them all organized.
Be sure to buy yourself something special along the way. Enjoy!
I didn't get everywhere I wanted to see but I LOVED our private tour of ancient Rome. I highly recommend our guide, Francesca Caruso, because she was so intuitive and really helped you visualize what it must have been like then. I have two e mail addresses for her but I have her card at home. I think the first address is one she is trying to discontinue - [email protected]. The second is probably the best - [email protected].
Definitely see and do as much as you can, eat gelato at the Frigidarium (and everywhere else!)across from Da Bafetto (good pizza, rude waiter). Be adventurous!
The public tranportation system, buses and the metro were easy to use.
I took around 800 pictures on this trip and I'm still trying to get them all organized.
Be sure to buy yourself something special along the way. Enjoy!
Oct 22nd, 2009, 12:20 PM
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galelstorm...
I agree, Francesca Caruso is terrific. I've known her 2 years now and always make a point to see her when I am in Rome.
You are correct, she is using the gmail account now and no longer getting any forwarded emails from the other address.
I was just in Rome last week and our apartment was 5 steps away from Fridgidarium...YUM!
I agree, Francesca Caruso is terrific. I've known her 2 years now and always make a point to see her when I am in Rome.
You are correct, she is using the gmail account now and no longer getting any forwarded emails from the other address.
I was just in Rome last week and our apartment was 5 steps away from Fridgidarium...YUM!
Oct 22nd, 2009, 10:03 PM
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Gale,
Just a note before bed - I hope I can sleep tonight! It will be the last chance for a really good sleep until we are soundly ensconced in our Rome hotel Saturday night. I just wanted to say my heart truly goes out to you having to put down your dog. First of all, there's nothing like a lab, and a yellow lab at that.
About the only bummer we anticipate with any trip is having to drop off our dog, Max. We are so lucky to have wonderful friends to babysit him - he loves going to camp at their house. But, we miss our boy and our best friend every time we see a dog. We have I don't know how many pictures of dogs in France!
Looking forward to more of the report. I'll chime in when we're back. Yippeeee
Just a note before bed - I hope I can sleep tonight! It will be the last chance for a really good sleep until we are soundly ensconced in our Rome hotel Saturday night. I just wanted to say my heart truly goes out to you having to put down your dog. First of all, there's nothing like a lab, and a yellow lab at that.
About the only bummer we anticipate with any trip is having to drop off our dog, Max. We are so lucky to have wonderful friends to babysit him - he loves going to camp at their house. But, we miss our boy and our best friend every time we see a dog. We have I don't know how many pictures of dogs in France!
Looking forward to more of the report. I'll chime in when we're back. Yippeeee
Oct 23rd, 2009, 01:22 PM
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Oh my gosh, we just had to put our 12 year old springer to sleep because of a ruptured tumor on her spleen. She was fine until the day before she had to be put to sleep. I have never cried more than when we lost our little girl dog, Molly. Miss her every day.
Oct 23rd, 2009, 08:13 PM
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Hi Gale, looking forward to your report. It was a really unlucky year for weather. I had 5 good days and then rain for most of the remainder of the trip. Glad you still had a wonderful time, my trip was less than spectacular but of course the minute I got home, all I could think about was going back.
Oct 25th, 2009, 03:12 PM
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After eating something to tide us over until dinner, we wandered through Venice stopping periodically for a glass of wine or two. We watched the tourists line up for the gondola rides outside the Hard Rock Cafe then headed a different direction and walked through Campo Santa Maria. I noticed a girl seated in an alcove where a Vivaldi concert was being advertised and and I stopped to inquire about it in my best Italian. As I was walking away from checking out the beautiful fruits and vegetables at the fruttivendolo in the square, the church bells at Santa Maria Formosa started to ring and I literally got tears in my eyes it was so beautiful to hear. We walked a little further and came upon a restaurant window. We all stopped to stare at the young man slicing cold meats. We were all drooling but saw that the restaurant didn't open until 7:00. There were four old movie theater seats right in front of the restaurant and we sat for awhile, then DH wandered off and came back and we followed him down a narrow alley to yet another square where families gathered, and children were playing. DH had found Sts Giovanni e Paolo. We watched for awhile the went back through the alley and headed back to the restaurant. Yay! They were open! We were asked if we had a reservation (as they were already filling up quickly), we told them we did not but we were promptly seated a table beyond the small first room. We immediately ordered the cold meat platter and a bottle of Piova-Robosa and dug in. For our main courses Russ ordered the cuttlefish in ink sauce, served with white polenta. Maureen had what would become her standard salata caprese, but the buffala mozzarella here was the creamiest I have ever had! I ordered the lamb chops and they came with a small white bean salad, arugula and stewed tomatoes. DH had spinach and ricotta ravioli. This was the only dish that was just OK. Total bill was E120 and we were satiated. By now the day had gotten to us, not to mention the wine, and we walked back to Corte Campana, stopping for a quick gelato on the way. Zzzzzzz. Some time during the night, maybe 2:00 or 2:30 I was awakened by a terrifically loud clap of thunder. I laid awake listening to the rain alternate between down pour and drizzle and thunder, or was that DH's snoring?
DH and I got up and went for an early walk around 7:20. I had to retrace my steps (with camera in hand) because I failed to get the name of the restaurant that we enjoyed so much the evening previously. It was Enoteca Mascareta on Calle Lunga Santa Maria Formosa and I couldn't believe I had stumbled on one the very restaurants that had been on my list! We headed to back for breakfast, chatted with Ricardo, grabbed Russ and Maureen and started our day of exploring. It was a little rainy in the morning, getting heavier as the day progressed. We wandered through the Castello, Cannereggio, and San Polo neighborhoods, visited the open market at Rialto. DH had a good time in the fish market since he sells wholesale seafood here in SF. We had taken a light lunch of our leftover cold meats, grabbed some rolls and bought wine. We stood under an overhang and ate while we watched the rain. I think we may have been in front of the courthouse or some sort of legal establishment as we kept seeing many men in business suits coming and going. We walked over to Santa Maria Glorioso dei Frari and went in to see see the church in all it's glory (pun intended). It was spectacular. Russ and DH observed an alcove up off to the right that they reported had body parts behind the glass, teeth, fingers, and things. I didn't venture in to peek. I understand the parts were supposed to be those of saints, remind me never to become a saint! By now it was POURING, we stopped for a cappuchino and DH was starting to get grumpy about the rain so he wanted to head back to the B&B. The three of us looked at him and said we hadn't come to Venice to spend our time inside. Now mind, you, DH is slightly directionally challenged so while Russ, Maureen, and I stayed out in the rain wandering for another hour or two before we headed back, DH had barely managed to get there about fifteen minutes before we did! We rung out our clothes, showered, and relaxed for awhile in the common area. We met another couple staying at the B&B, they were from Australia and had just arrived during the deluge. Nice couple and I was jealous as they had seven whole weeks to explore Italy! The rain subsided and we dressed and headed out to a restaurant Maureen had noticed earlier, Ca Dolfin. The food here was marginal and nothing worth noting but we were full and ready to walk. We stopped for a glass of wine, walked into Piazza San Marco and it was absolutely deserted. What a contrast from the first morning we arrived. We had the entire square to ourselves. I guess the rain made people stay in.
The next morning we awoke to a bright, sunny day. This was the day we had decided to go to Burano. We had our breakfast, chatted with our Aussie friends and headed to the vaporetto. We were at S. Zaccaria and started out at the wrong stop but finally found the right place for the boat to Burano. It was a ferry boat and the trip took about an hour and twenty minutes. The sun was sparkling on the sea and we relaxed and enjoyed the ride. The ferry took us past Lido, which looked like nothing I had imagined, after reading Maria de Blasi's "1000 Days in Venice". We arrived at Burano and walked down the main canal in search of a restaurant that Russ and Maureen had eaten at when they were there before, Il Gatto Nero. We meandered past the stalls and vendors, rounded the corner to another canal and looked to our right and found the restaurant. They had tables outside which were mostly full and inside was too warm. The Maitre D asked us if we had a reservation(I'm seeing a pattern here) and we told him no. Then he asked me in Italian what time it was which caught me off guard but I gathered my wits and answered him and he said he had some people that would be late so they put two tables together for us outside, handed us a glass of prosecco while we waited and we sat down for a scrumptious meal. Maureen and I had a carafe of prosecco and Russ wanted red wine which DH shared with him. The red wine came in the cutest little pitcher and I bought one to take home with me. Yes, I carried the darn thing for the next 18 days and it made it home in one piece believe it or not. DH and I shared a pappardelle for two that was incredible! It was made with smoked ricotta and tomatoes and it had a little bite of hot pepper in there somewhere. Man, was it good! Maureen and Russ shared a salad that had a balsamic vinegar that was thick and syrupy...mmm. Maureen and I had branzino (sea bass) and orata (sea bream), while DH had eel and Russ, the spaghetti con vongole. The eel was just OK, but the spaghetti with clams was fantastic. They were the tiniest clams and that sauce too had a little spice to it. We tried some panna cotta, had cappuchino and needed to walk. The island is so beautiful, dotted with it's brightly painted houses and fruit trees of every variety, fig, lemon, pomegranate you name it. We wandered back through the main area and bought a few souvenirs along the way back to catch the vaporetto. We got off the vaporetto in Cannereggio and happened upon the Jewish Ghetto. What a beautiful neighborhood with families and children playing. We bought some cold meats from a salumeria there for later and the boys headed back to the B&B while Maureen and I walked and window shopped. I wanted to find a store that Russ and I had seen earlier that sold Venetian flags. We found it and purchased two flags then walked over to Osteria di Alberto and had a glass of prosecco before going back to the B&B. We got a little lost on our way back, and we only went in a couple of circles...REALLY! This was what I wanted to do most in Venice, just wander around and be there. We went over near the Rialto bridge for dinner that night and the guys that are out front hawking for the restaurants were so obnoxious! We settled on one, ate and went out for a night cap before going back to the B&B to pack up. The next morning we woke up, dressed and were heading down the stairs. We saw Ricardo as he came up, said our goodbyes, and promised to send pictures. We went back over to the S. Zaccaria vaporetto stop to go to La Ferrovia to catch our train to Florence, and then on to Perugia.
DH and I got up and went for an early walk around 7:20. I had to retrace my steps (with camera in hand) because I failed to get the name of the restaurant that we enjoyed so much the evening previously. It was Enoteca Mascareta on Calle Lunga Santa Maria Formosa and I couldn't believe I had stumbled on one the very restaurants that had been on my list! We headed to back for breakfast, chatted with Ricardo, grabbed Russ and Maureen and started our day of exploring. It was a little rainy in the morning, getting heavier as the day progressed. We wandered through the Castello, Cannereggio, and San Polo neighborhoods, visited the open market at Rialto. DH had a good time in the fish market since he sells wholesale seafood here in SF. We had taken a light lunch of our leftover cold meats, grabbed some rolls and bought wine. We stood under an overhang and ate while we watched the rain. I think we may have been in front of the courthouse or some sort of legal establishment as we kept seeing many men in business suits coming and going. We walked over to Santa Maria Glorioso dei Frari and went in to see see the church in all it's glory (pun intended). It was spectacular. Russ and DH observed an alcove up off to the right that they reported had body parts behind the glass, teeth, fingers, and things. I didn't venture in to peek. I understand the parts were supposed to be those of saints, remind me never to become a saint! By now it was POURING, we stopped for a cappuchino and DH was starting to get grumpy about the rain so he wanted to head back to the B&B. The three of us looked at him and said we hadn't come to Venice to spend our time inside. Now mind, you, DH is slightly directionally challenged so while Russ, Maureen, and I stayed out in the rain wandering for another hour or two before we headed back, DH had barely managed to get there about fifteen minutes before we did! We rung out our clothes, showered, and relaxed for awhile in the common area. We met another couple staying at the B&B, they were from Australia and had just arrived during the deluge. Nice couple and I was jealous as they had seven whole weeks to explore Italy! The rain subsided and we dressed and headed out to a restaurant Maureen had noticed earlier, Ca Dolfin. The food here was marginal and nothing worth noting but we were full and ready to walk. We stopped for a glass of wine, walked into Piazza San Marco and it was absolutely deserted. What a contrast from the first morning we arrived. We had the entire square to ourselves. I guess the rain made people stay in.
The next morning we awoke to a bright, sunny day. This was the day we had decided to go to Burano. We had our breakfast, chatted with our Aussie friends and headed to the vaporetto. We were at S. Zaccaria and started out at the wrong stop but finally found the right place for the boat to Burano. It was a ferry boat and the trip took about an hour and twenty minutes. The sun was sparkling on the sea and we relaxed and enjoyed the ride. The ferry took us past Lido, which looked like nothing I had imagined, after reading Maria de Blasi's "1000 Days in Venice". We arrived at Burano and walked down the main canal in search of a restaurant that Russ and Maureen had eaten at when they were there before, Il Gatto Nero. We meandered past the stalls and vendors, rounded the corner to another canal and looked to our right and found the restaurant. They had tables outside which were mostly full and inside was too warm. The Maitre D asked us if we had a reservation(I'm seeing a pattern here) and we told him no. Then he asked me in Italian what time it was which caught me off guard but I gathered my wits and answered him and he said he had some people that would be late so they put two tables together for us outside, handed us a glass of prosecco while we waited and we sat down for a scrumptious meal. Maureen and I had a carafe of prosecco and Russ wanted red wine which DH shared with him. The red wine came in the cutest little pitcher and I bought one to take home with me. Yes, I carried the darn thing for the next 18 days and it made it home in one piece believe it or not. DH and I shared a pappardelle for two that was incredible! It was made with smoked ricotta and tomatoes and it had a little bite of hot pepper in there somewhere. Man, was it good! Maureen and Russ shared a salad that had a balsamic vinegar that was thick and syrupy...mmm. Maureen and I had branzino (sea bass) and orata (sea bream), while DH had eel and Russ, the spaghetti con vongole. The eel was just OK, but the spaghetti with clams was fantastic. They were the tiniest clams and that sauce too had a little spice to it. We tried some panna cotta, had cappuchino and needed to walk. The island is so beautiful, dotted with it's brightly painted houses and fruit trees of every variety, fig, lemon, pomegranate you name it. We wandered back through the main area and bought a few souvenirs along the way back to catch the vaporetto. We got off the vaporetto in Cannereggio and happened upon the Jewish Ghetto. What a beautiful neighborhood with families and children playing. We bought some cold meats from a salumeria there for later and the boys headed back to the B&B while Maureen and I walked and window shopped. I wanted to find a store that Russ and I had seen earlier that sold Venetian flags. We found it and purchased two flags then walked over to Osteria di Alberto and had a glass of prosecco before going back to the B&B. We got a little lost on our way back, and we only went in a couple of circles...REALLY! This was what I wanted to do most in Venice, just wander around and be there. We went over near the Rialto bridge for dinner that night and the guys that are out front hawking for the restaurants were so obnoxious! We settled on one, ate and went out for a night cap before going back to the B&B to pack up. The next morning we woke up, dressed and were heading down the stairs. We saw Ricardo as he came up, said our goodbyes, and promised to send pictures. We went back over to the S. Zaccaria vaporetto stop to go to La Ferrovia to catch our train to Florence, and then on to Perugia.
