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We had booked ourselves on a 2 hour cruise to the Summer Isles this morning. With about 20 passengers and a dog on board, the boat set sail towards this group of uninhabited islands near the mouth of Loch Broom.


Strolling around the harbour, while waiting to board

Funny gate signage along the harbour road

Our cruise boat

Departing from Ullapool


We had enjoyed some of these coastal views from the shore while driving through Coigach peninsula (en route to Ullapool, yesterday), but the views from the water provided an altogether different perspective. We enjoyed the cruise and spotted marine life (including seals and porpoises) and birds (including eagles). All this with informative and highly entertaining commentary from the hilariously funny navigator and guide (who also graciously lent us his pair of binoculars).


On board

Setting sail

Seals

Birds on rocky ledge

Pretty coves and beaches

More seals

Views

Sea Cave from outside

Within the sea cave, the boat backed up all the way inside !

Coigach peninsula from the water

Salmon farms

Lighthouse


We headed back to our B&B. Given the frenetic pace of the trip so far, it was a relief to have a light day (giving my sore feet and our car a rest from all the driving) and allowed for an afternoon nap to rejuvenate !

As I checked my email, I had received a very confusing message from Calmac (the ferry services provider for the Western Isles, where we were headed later in the trip). The email listed my original return journey to the mainland from Barra (Castlebay-Oban) AND an alternate route requiring me to retrace to South Uist (at 4am!) and take the Lochboisdale-Oban ferry (at 6am). I visited the Calmac office in Ullapool who confirmed my suspicion that this was a cancellation and rerouting. They coudnt explain why or print the revised tickets, but gave me vague assurances this would all be OK and could be dealt with when I got to Barra! Evidently, my saga with the Scotland ferries hadn’t quite ended with the Orkney fiasco. More on this story, follows later in my report.


In the evening, we strolled around charming Ullapool and climbed up the Ullapool hill to enjoy views over the village and loch.


Ullapool

Ice cream parlour

Fish n Chips Shop

Art studio

Climbing up the hill

Aerial view of Ullapool

Visit to the Highland Stoneware store, after descending the hill


Coming next : The highlight of our trip - 4 days in Torridon ....

That Cul Mor and Suilven view is so dramatic. So wild, barren, windswept. You’ve seen so much.

I’m trying not to make more holiday plans while travelling, but…the evenings are free to read TR’s!
It’s dangerous, isn’t it, lol.

More gorgeous photos.

My ex did the full Stac Pollaidh trail to the top -- its only 2 or 3 miles but was quite challenging with a lot if elevation gain. I stayed down in the small car park in our campervan and had a nice picnic with our Scottie and Airedale. He wanted to take the Airedale with him but I nixed that idea!

Adelaidean, I agree - your TR is whetting my appetite for Northern Italy again - we last visited the Dolomites in 2018 and there's so much in the region left to see.

janisj, thanks. Stac Pollaidh does appear innocuous from the base, but it was a hard slog. The photos don't do justice as the views were so sweeping and expansive.

After breakfast and a quick fuel stop, we set off on our long drive to Torridon. The stretch of the A835 down Loch Broom was marred by rain and fog, but it cleared up by the time we hit Corrieshalloch Gorge, our first stop.

We parked very close to the Falls of Measach and made our way to a (shaky) suspension bridge with an impressive view of the crashing falls. After crossing the bridge, there's a wooded path to a metal platform offering another terrific viewpoint.


From suspension bridge, view of falls crashing down,

The suspension bridge

View of bridge and falls from the metal platform


We then joined the A832 which winds its way around the coast all the way to Kinlochewe, stopping regularly to enjoy the scenery.


Along the route

Along the route

Along the route

Gruinard Bay, along the route


A minor detour led us to the remote Mellon Udrigle beach, hidden behind farmland and pastures.


Passing through farmlands

Mellon Udrigle Beach

Mellon Udrigle Beach


We continued onwards to Gairloch....


Near Poolewe

At Poolewe

View over Gairloch

View over Gairloch Beach

,.... followed by a minor detour to Badachro for a quick meal.


Badachro Inn

Badachro Inn

Seals basking on a rock in the bay at Badachro, as we left


As we drove down the western shore of Loch Maree, we pulled over to enjoy the stunning and much-photographed Lone Pine Tree viewpoint with Slioch in the background.

The lone pine tree viewpoint


We made another stop further down the shore by the Beinn Eighe Reserve Car Park, which offers two trails. We just chose to linger and enjoy some sunshine, after a sudden shower abated.


Loch Maree

Beinn Eighe

Loch Maree, the sun comes out


We made our way to the Glen Docherty viewpoint beyond Kinlochewe, one of the most iconic views along the NC500. Absolutely breathtaking!


Glen Docherty viewpoint

We rejoined the A896 which cuts through the stunning Glen Torridon, stopping for a short walk at the Coulin Estate along the shores of Loch Clair, with our first sighting of the mighty Liathach.


Beinn Eighe pops its head, en route to Torridon

At the shores of Loch Clair

Loch Clair, Liathach looms over

Glen Torridon


Driving through Glen Torridon had given us a sneak preview of what to expect over our next three days (just wow!). We headed to our Airbnb (one of our best experiences ever), located in an idyllic spot along the shores of Loch Torridon to be warmly received by our hosts, and their adorable golden retriever.


The river Torridon flows by our B&B

B&B grounds

A warm welcome and a daily dose of love and cuddles!

Great report. Love the photos. I would love to do the NC500 someday.

Thank you twk, glad you're enjoying the TR.

With good weather and clear skies, we set off for Applecross. Our host recommended we take the coastal road to Applecross, and return via the Bealach Na Ba, so we descend the steepest section after crossing the pass. There’s little to choose between which direction to take, the views are sensational regardless.


As we drove the A896, our first stop was the panoramic viewpoint over Loch Torridon roughly midway between Annat and Balgy,the photos barely do it justice.


Loch Torridon viewpoint

Loch Torridon viewpoint


After passing Shieldaig, we branched off to the coastal route. It’s a tortuous single track road, with stunning scenery all around, so enjoy the very slow drive. I’ll let the pictures do the talking.


Driving past Shieldaig

Low lying cloud

The iconic red roof house near Ardheslaig

The low lying cloud reappears

Croft land near Kenmore

Fearnbeg

Fearnmore


As the road winded south from Fearnmore, views of Rona and Skye in the far distance emerged. Wow!






We stopped at the remote Applecross Sands. We were the only ones on this remote beach, until a lady arrived with her little dog.


Applecross Sands

Applecross Sands


The road continued to wind its way around Applecross Bay.


Along the coastal road

Applecross Bay


The whole approach to Applecross was beyond words, with deer and highland cows enjoying some sun.


Approaching Applecross

Deer

Highland coos


We made two short refuelling breaks – for ourselves at the Walled Garden Cafe, and for our car the historic community-owned petrol station.


Applecross Walled Garden

Applecross Community filling station


After parking our car, we explored the tiny little village of Applecross on foot, it’s literally a single street lined with whitewashed houses (dominated by the Inn), but what a setting !


The village

Applecross Inn

Takeaway

Snacking by the shore

Deer by the parking area

Close up


We then set off to tackle the Bealach na Ba. It means “Path of the Cattle” and is one of the highest mountain roads in the UK. It’s a very narrow, winding, single track record with limited passing places, several hairpin bends and sharp gradient changes. It needs to be driven very carefully especially as it has become so popular, also attracting some reckless drivers. The views are hard to describe, and we made several stops wherever there were larger laybys or designated areas to pull up and stop.


Start of the road from Applecross

.. and off we go

.. the route is popular with bikers

Views

Views

Views


As we got to its highest point and crossed the moutain pass, the road seemed almost vertical as we descended (and we actually passed a car along this, my driving skills were put to the ultimate test!)


At the high point of the pass

At the bottom

The road finally connects to Tornapress, before rejoining the A896 along Loch Kishorn and heading back towards Sheldiag.


Loch Kishorn

The Bealach Cafe at Tornapress


On reaching the village of Shieldaig, our first order of business was to complete the ~5km circular walk along the Shieldaig peninsula. The start of the path is confusing – we parked by the campsite and entered through the primary school gate ! The rest of the path had some arrow waymarkers painted in the rocks. There are some tricky sections - including a steep section with a chain to hold onto and part of the return through the birch trees. The views were just terrific.


Shieldaig village

Along our walking route

Views

Views

Views

Some tough sections of the route

Views, the Torridon hills look unreal

Heading back to Shieldaig

Back at the start, signpost


We returned to visit the Shieldiag village, before heading back home to Torridon. What a memorable day !


Shieldaig Village

Loch Shieldaig

Oh wow, stunning. You had great weather for that drive.

Having mapped out some walks around Loch Torridon with our hosts, we had a pretty good plan for our 3rd day in Torridon.


We first drove to the Beinn Alligin park, and hiked a short way up from the bridge to enjoy some views.


Climbing a short way up the slope of Beinn Alligin, from the carpark

Views from slopes of Beinn Alligin

Descent and return


Our first walk focused on the northern shore of the Loch. We drove up to a layby with some parking space outside the private road leading to the Torridon Estate, and then proceeded on foot.


Start of the trail

Along the way

Along the way, lots of pretty coves

Through the woods


After a forested path and crossing a little stream, we sighted some deer and birds.


Past the stream

Stork

Deer


The path eventually led us to a lovely spot marked Rechullin on the map, at the edge of Inveralligin.


On the way

At Rechulin

Mini golf course !

Views


At this point, we tuned back and enjoyed the stunning vistas again, passing by the Torridon Estate guesthouse and grounds.


Heading back

Along the way

The Torridon Estate guesthouse


We stopped by Fasag for a bite at the Torridon Store and Café and a visit to the open air church nearby.


At Fasag

By the open air church

By the open air church

At the cafe


We then stopped briefly at the deer museum in the Torridon village itself, with lots of deer behind a wired fence.





We returned to our B&B, dropping off the car. We used the afternoon to wrap up the final (episodes of Line of Duty Season 6 (which we found on BBC's iPlayer on the TV at our B&B; Netlfix unceremoniously yanked this off their India network). Later that evening, we walked along the southern shore, heading in the direction of the famous 5* resort and hotel - The Torridon before turning back to our B&B.


By the river Torridon

View of Torridon Village, Liathach towers over

Along the loch south shore

The Torridon hotel, in the distance

Along the pebbly beach, before turning back

Sheep grazing

Goats grazing

Back to our B&B

We were lucky to have a fourth straight day of clear weather in Torridon. We drove to The Torridon Outdoors/Activities Centre located by the Bo&Muc café (part of The Torridon hotel estate), which is also a starting point for two trails.

The path begins behind the Beinn Bar and heads through a wooded path to a fork where you can choose the longer Balgy trail (about 14km) or the much shorter Torridon trail (about 2 km).


Starting at the Bo&Muc cafe grounds


We picked the Balgy trail first. We made a detour to a small peninsula - Aird Mhor. We didn’t walk all the way to Balgy but it was good 5-6kms out before we turned to retrace. It was a beautiful walk, and we were the only ones there.


Along the path

Views

Views

Little cove

The peninsula

The peninsula

Return route


As we returned to the fork in the road, we now headed in the direction of the “Torridon trail”. This took us past The Boathouse (a self-catering accommodation available to let by The Torridon) and a little pine clad islet.


The Boathouse

The pine clad islet


The route then goes through the walled garden of the Torridon (where all the vegetables, herbs etc. are grown and sourced for the hotel) before leading through the stables back to the Bo&Muc café.


The Torridon Garden

The Torridon Garden

The Torridon Stables (now operate as B&B acco)


As we left, we passed the stately Torridon Hotel itself, with highland cows grazing near the entrance gates.


The Torridon


In the evening, we drove the 9 mile narrow, winding single track road to Lower Diabaig for dinnerl at the highly recommended and very popular Gille Brighde restaurant. It's one roller coaster of a drive (thankfully hardly any cars passed) with a few viewpoints and spaces to pull aside and stop. The scenery is glorious, and Lower Diabaig is nestled in the remotest corner along Loch Torridon.


The drive begins

Views

Over Inveralligin

Bench with a view

Passing Upper Diabaig

Lower Diabaig emerges in view


The wonderful (vegetarian) meal and hospitality at Gille Brighde was a fitting end to our 4 days in Torridon. Reflecting back on our trip, Torridon ranks among the most beautiful places we have seen anywhere on the planet, not just in Scotland.


At the Lower Diabaig pier

Along the shore

Outside the restaurant

Inside the restaurant

Stay tuned - our week in the Outer Hebrides, coming next !

With the NC500 and Orkney behind us, this segment of the trip report now focuses on our week in the Outer Hebrides.Our itinerary was :

Lewis & Harris : 4 nights, based in Tarbert
Uist : 1 night, based in Eriskay
Barra : 2 nights based in Castlebay

The islands are connected to each other and the Scottish mainland itself by ferries operated by Calmac.

We were booked on an afternoon ferry from Uig (at the northern tip of Isle of Skye) to Tarbert (Harris). The alternate sailing is Ullapool-Stornoway. However, I just wanted to experience Skye again (even if only a quick drive through the island) to relive our memories from 2017 (we spent a long weekend, based out of Portree).

Its hard to resist the urge to keep pulling over every few miles in Skye. With that in mind, we made a rather early start after bidding a sad farewell to Torridon. We drove quickly down the A896 to Loch Carron and switching over to the slower A890 which led us to the Kyle of Lochalsh (and the bridge that connects Skye to the mainland).


Kyle of Lochalsh, Skye bridge


The rainclouds fortuitously cleared as we got to Skye ! After a quick stop at the Co-Op Store at Broadford to stock up on fuel (surprisingly our cheapest fill during this entire trip?!) and provisions, we continued down the A87. And then the Skye magic began to slowly unfold.





We also made two stops at Sligachan and Portree. I had to keep a close eye on the clock, as we had a 2.30pm ferry to catch (cars need to check in an hour early)!


The Old Bridge and Sligachan Hotel :

The Black Cuillin Mountains

Portree harbour

Driving through Bpsville Terrace, Portree


As we worked our way up the A855 through the Trotternish peninsula, so many of our fondest hiking and trekking memories came back to life. We eventually took the narrow single-track road near Quiraing that leads to Uig.


Past the Old Man of Storr

Lealt Falls

Quiraing

Along the Quiraing - Uig road


Thankfully, we reached Uig in good time. At Uig harbour, we parked our car in one of the boarding lanes at the port, and took a short stroll.


The road descends into Uig

The Brewery

The Local Store and Filling Station

The Uig pier


It was a calm ~ 2 hour sailing . It had been a long and tiring day, so as we hit Tarbert we just drove to our B&B (located close to the port and right by the loch), relaxed and called it an early night.


Reaching Tarbert, by the port

At our lochside B&B

Including the map at the start of this segment is a nice, helpful touch ~ appreciated!

I loved my days in Lewis and Harris! Looking forward to hearing about your experience there!

Thank you everyone for your comments, and continuing to follow my trip report.

Lewis and Harris is actually a single, large island with Lewis to the north and Harris to the south, separated only by mountains. I had planned our driving routes for the next 3 days so we could maximise coverage, without needless backtracking given the large distances. Today, our focus was the historic sites in Lewis and parts of northern Harris.

Our first stop was the very impressive Callanish Standing Stones, which predate the Stonehenge and make for an enthralling experience as you can walk amidst them. It’s unclear whether this was a ritualistic site or an astronomical observatory. There are a few minor sites Callanish 2 and Callanish 3 in the proximity as well.


At Callanish 1

At Callanish 1

At Callanish 1

Views from Callanish 1, visitor centre in the distance

Callanish 2

Callanish 2, from afar

Callanish 3

Callanish 3, from afar


Our next stop was the Dun Carloway Broch, built around 200BC and used as a defensive structure, providing refuge to people and their livestock. We made it out just before a bus arrived depositing a large tour group!


Climbing up to the broch

At the broch

Views from the broch


Our final stop on Lewis was the Garenin Blackhouse village, to get a preview of the traditional blackhouses with thatched roofs built in the 1800s across the Hebrides. Today, these serve as self catering accommodation!


Entrance area and reception

The village houses

Art gallery next door


We retraced back to Harris and joined the minor road B8011. As we approached Uig Bay, we visited the replica of 12th century chess pieces, erected close to the spot where an ivory carved set was discovered in the 1800s and possibly the oldest chess set in the world ! The Ardroil Beach at Uig Bay was staggering – white sands stretching as far as the eye could see, and the clearest blue water.


Chess piece exhibit by Uig Bay

Approach

Lots of coves

The beach

By the sea

Finally a family joins us


Our next stop was the wild and rocky beach at Mangersta. We had this beach to ourselves!


Mangersta

Mangersta

Along the beach

View of Mangersta, from parking


A short drive down the road brought us to ​​​​​​the magnificent Mangersta sea stacks.


The stacks

Cliffs, with exposed pink stone - which I suspect makes for dramatic sunsets


As we headed back, we made a final detour through the Valtos peninsula to pass through the little villages of Cliff, Kneep and Reef with more stunning beaches and coastal landscape.


Beach at Reef

Beach at Cliff

Church near Miavaig, what a setting


We then made our way back to Tarbert, absorbing more of Harris' gorgeous scenery en route and excited about what the next 2 days held in store!


En route to Tarbert

En route to Tarbert


What a day it had been – the Outer Hebrides made us feel we had been teleported into a different universe and time !

So enjoying your journey!

These outer areas of Scotland are so otherworldly, it's strange to think that people actually live there! I think it's fascinating to think about what that kind of life would be like.