2 weeks in the Lot and Languedoc. A relaxed break. Long.
Jun 23rd, 2010, 08:04 AM
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2 weeks in the Lot and Languedoc. A relaxed break. Long.
Here's a somewhat belated trip report from our two weeks in France.
As most of you know we live in the Netherlands so we drove to France, and stayed in two self catering houses. The first was only available from the Sunday which is why we left when we did.
We didn't visit chateaus or indeed many touristy places, and, as the main aim was relaxation we kept our day trips short. Oh and we ate mostly at home, so no restaurant recommendations.
We set off on Saturday May 22 on a lovely warm, sunny day. We decided not to leave too early to give Parisians a chance to escape the city for the long Whit weekend. Sadly it didn't help and we were stuck in a huge jam. Luckily the Prius has Kitty, our GPS system, built in, and she can see jams and divert us around them. She quickly took us off the motorway and through a maze of streets and eventually we emerged, relatively unscathed on the road to Orleans.
We had decided to break the journey in Orleans, as it was a good days drive, and a place we'd never been before. We booked a room at the Hotel Escale Oceania. It is only 2stars, but in a lovely building, right on the river, and with free parking. http://tinyurl.com/288e8cx
We wandered around the city and eventually found a place to eat www.aubonmarche-orleans.com/. The food was good and the terrace crowded. They were turning people away shortly after we got there.
We really enjoyed Orleans and fully intend to return and spend longer there.
After a good buffet breakfast (included in the weekend B&B price) we continued on our way south.
Our first house is a lovely converted barn. The owners, a Dutch couple, Peter and Louis are very discrete, whilst being friendly and helpful. Their house is on the same plot, but does not overlook the barn. They live there for 6 to 8 months a year, and, coincidentally, live not far from us the rest of the time.
We had a delightful view of fields, and a lovely garden to use. We loved watching the woodpeckers, a hare, and so many other birds there. They also get visited by deer and badgers, though we didn't see either.
You can see some photos of it here. The website is only in Dutch I believe, though the owners speak good Engish.
http://www.gites.nl/Gite/Maison+de+Rosalie/491/
The first day was spent driving around getting a feel for the place. We liked Cardaillac a lot, and enjoyed Figeac too, especially when we found a McD there so I could download some missing drivers onto my netbook!
Tuesday we drove along the beautiful Céré valley and booked a tour for Peche Merle for later in the week, as we knew the weather would not be so good then.
Rocamadour was a disappointment to me, although not too crowded it did feel very touristy, even in the chapels it was hard to get a feel for the place. Maybe the three coaches parked there should have warned us. I hate to think what it is like in August.
We had an enormous thunderstorm on the Tuesday evening, which was spectacular. We just don't get them like that in the Netherlands.
Wednesday was wet so we went to another cave – Grotte de Presque, which we enjoyed. The guide spoke good English and with a small group of French, Dutch and English was very patient and happy to explain things.
We then went on to Autoir, but a coach had just arrived so we pressed on and explored Loubressac instead, which was empty and delightful. We spent the afternoon exploring St Céré. Sadly the castle was closed so we couldn't visit the Lurçat Museum, which I would have enjoyed.
Thursday we had our trip to Peche Merle
We loved Peche Merle but I am glad we didn't go when it was any busier though. Even though we were in there longer than the allotted 50 minutes it still felt rushed. The guide spoke slow French so I could understand most of what she said, and she did some of the talk in English too.
We then drove home along the Lot valley and through tiny roads enjoying the wild flowers and the lovely countryside.
Friday we pottered about a bit and finally headed along the Dordogne river to Argentat. I think this was possibly my favourite place. We just sat at a café on the river front for about two hours.
Eventually though we left and headed home along yet another river – the Cére.
So my views of week one – highlights? The caves, a couple of the villages, the peace, the flowers, the people and strangely the thunderstorm.
Lowlights – Paris traffic, and nutty French motorcyclists.
The wet weather caused my arthritis to play up so I was not able to walk as far as I would have liked. I hoped things would improve in the south, but it was not to be.
Saturday 29th of May saw us all packed up and ready to head south again. After paying our hosts for the electricity and bedlinen rental (very Dutch!), and enjoying a cup of coffee with them we set off. Yet again a warm travelling day.
We ignored Kitty's advice and followed some D roads south, making for a more pleasant, and not much slower journey.
We arrived at our second house in Fosse in the late afternoon. This time we had a studio, attached to the owners house, but with it's own garden and complete privacy. The English owners, Peter and John welcomed us and showed us what was what and left us to it, though they did check back during the week to ensure everything was OK.
This is the second house (which you can read about in English)
http://www.gites.biz/Gite/The+Orchard+Studio/3602/.
It is quite small, and more aimed at outside living than anything else.
Sadly for us the first few days were cold due to the really strong north wind blowing continuously.
Sunday we went to Espereza to the market. All we heard spoken seemed to be English. It is a very popular area with ex-pats it seems (our hosts live there full time having moved there 4 years ago). Every shop we went into all week we heard lots of English voices, and there were lots of RHD French registered cars about.
Having picked up some food at the market we headed back. Later we went to see the Roman aqueduct at Ansignan. Built in the 3rd century it is still doing it's job today, surrounded by grapevines fed by it's waters. It was lovely to be able to explore it, and walk through it with was no-one else there.
Monday we headed for the coast, in the hope it would be warmer there. The wind was even worse in fact and at times it was hard to stand up. We crossed into Spain for lunch before driving back up the coast. Collioure was packed to the gunnels so we didn't even try and find a place to park.
I didn't enjoy the coast tbh. It was very built up and just didn't appeal to me.
That evening my husband stepped outside to get something, missed a step and pulled a muscle in his leg. Luckily the Prius is an automatic and so he could still drive.
Tuesday it was still really windy and beginning to really get me down. Nonetheless we headed off on a castle hunt. First we went in to Caudies to fine a pharmacie and get some strapping for his leg. Then we went off to Aguilar, Queribus, and Peyrepertuse. We shall have to return another year to actually visit them – my husband just couldn't manage the walk up to them, and nor could I. Plus it was so windy people at Peyrepertuse were saying it was very dodgy up there, though not quite windy enough for it to close.
We headed home via the Gorge de Galamus. Wow! Not for the faint hearted, especially driving it the way did. I was terrified, but also exhilarated by it. My husband didn't understand until we reached a pull-out and he could see for himself.
We visited the Hermitage too, which we both really enjoyed. My husband used one of my walking poles and we went the short route through the tunnel to it. Slow progress but we made it.
As the weather continued to be so miserable I seriously considered heading home early. My husband said give it one more day.
That day dawned wet. Very wet. But warmer, and with less wind. Eventually it cleared up a bit, but we didn't do a lot. Hunkered down and read.
Finally no wind. Thursday dawned sunny and warm and wind free. What a relief, what a difference!
We decided to visit Les Orgues by Iles sur Tetes and Serrabonne Priory. Both absolutely worth it. We couldn't walk around Les Orgues because his leg was bad again, but he did manage to get up to Serrabonne, which is wonderful. The carvings and the arches and the whole thing is just so unexpected from the outside.
Friday was a glorious day so we didn't do a lot. We visited Força Real for the view, and finally made use of the pool, before packing and cleaning and getting ready for home.
Highlights? Again the wild flowers everywhere, Gorge de Glalmus, Serrabonne, the aqueduct.
Lowlights? The wind, the coast, and my husband's leg.
And so back home. We stopped in Le Puy-en-Levay the first night, at a small hotel www.hotelvalvert.com/ . It was cheap, had free wifi, and the owners very friendly. Sadly the room was on the main road, so noisy, though it did quieten down eventually. There are rooms at the back which are quieter but they were all booked.
We also ate at the hotel. And yes we did have Puy Lentils, though not with the vegetarian menu, which I chose.
It is another town I want to return to and explore some more, but we had to press on. Our last night in France was spent at a rather boring Ibis in Tinqueux on the edge of Reims. I wouldn't recommend it.
I will happily return to the Lot again, and maybe to a different part of Languedoc, or further west in the Pyrenees maybe. Quite a turn around for someone who didn't want to go!
Hopefully next time we can do some walking.
As most of you know we live in the Netherlands so we drove to France, and stayed in two self catering houses. The first was only available from the Sunday which is why we left when we did.
We didn't visit chateaus or indeed many touristy places, and, as the main aim was relaxation we kept our day trips short. Oh and we ate mostly at home, so no restaurant recommendations.
We set off on Saturday May 22 on a lovely warm, sunny day. We decided not to leave too early to give Parisians a chance to escape the city for the long Whit weekend. Sadly it didn't help and we were stuck in a huge jam. Luckily the Prius has Kitty, our GPS system, built in, and she can see jams and divert us around them. She quickly took us off the motorway and through a maze of streets and eventually we emerged, relatively unscathed on the road to Orleans.
We had decided to break the journey in Orleans, as it was a good days drive, and a place we'd never been before. We booked a room at the Hotel Escale Oceania. It is only 2stars, but in a lovely building, right on the river, and with free parking. http://tinyurl.com/288e8cx
We wandered around the city and eventually found a place to eat www.aubonmarche-orleans.com/. The food was good and the terrace crowded. They were turning people away shortly after we got there.
We really enjoyed Orleans and fully intend to return and spend longer there.
After a good buffet breakfast (included in the weekend B&B price) we continued on our way south.
Our first house is a lovely converted barn. The owners, a Dutch couple, Peter and Louis are very discrete, whilst being friendly and helpful. Their house is on the same plot, but does not overlook the barn. They live there for 6 to 8 months a year, and, coincidentally, live not far from us the rest of the time.
We had a delightful view of fields, and a lovely garden to use. We loved watching the woodpeckers, a hare, and so many other birds there. They also get visited by deer and badgers, though we didn't see either.
You can see some photos of it here. The website is only in Dutch I believe, though the owners speak good Engish.
http://www.gites.nl/Gite/Maison+de+Rosalie/491/
The first day was spent driving around getting a feel for the place. We liked Cardaillac a lot, and enjoyed Figeac too, especially when we found a McD there so I could download some missing drivers onto my netbook!
Tuesday we drove along the beautiful Céré valley and booked a tour for Peche Merle for later in the week, as we knew the weather would not be so good then.
Rocamadour was a disappointment to me, although not too crowded it did feel very touristy, even in the chapels it was hard to get a feel for the place. Maybe the three coaches parked there should have warned us. I hate to think what it is like in August.
We had an enormous thunderstorm on the Tuesday evening, which was spectacular. We just don't get them like that in the Netherlands.
Wednesday was wet so we went to another cave – Grotte de Presque, which we enjoyed. The guide spoke good English and with a small group of French, Dutch and English was very patient and happy to explain things.
We then went on to Autoir, but a coach had just arrived so we pressed on and explored Loubressac instead, which was empty and delightful. We spent the afternoon exploring St Céré. Sadly the castle was closed so we couldn't visit the Lurçat Museum, which I would have enjoyed.
Thursday we had our trip to Peche Merle
We loved Peche Merle but I am glad we didn't go when it was any busier though. Even though we were in there longer than the allotted 50 minutes it still felt rushed. The guide spoke slow French so I could understand most of what she said, and she did some of the talk in English too.
We then drove home along the Lot valley and through tiny roads enjoying the wild flowers and the lovely countryside.
Friday we pottered about a bit and finally headed along the Dordogne river to Argentat. I think this was possibly my favourite place. We just sat at a café on the river front for about two hours.
Eventually though we left and headed home along yet another river – the Cére.
So my views of week one – highlights? The caves, a couple of the villages, the peace, the flowers, the people and strangely the thunderstorm.
Lowlights – Paris traffic, and nutty French motorcyclists.
The wet weather caused my arthritis to play up so I was not able to walk as far as I would have liked. I hoped things would improve in the south, but it was not to be.
Saturday 29th of May saw us all packed up and ready to head south again. After paying our hosts for the electricity and bedlinen rental (very Dutch!), and enjoying a cup of coffee with them we set off. Yet again a warm travelling day.
We ignored Kitty's advice and followed some D roads south, making for a more pleasant, and not much slower journey.
We arrived at our second house in Fosse in the late afternoon. This time we had a studio, attached to the owners house, but with it's own garden and complete privacy. The English owners, Peter and John welcomed us and showed us what was what and left us to it, though they did check back during the week to ensure everything was OK.
This is the second house (which you can read about in English)
http://www.gites.biz/Gite/The+Orchard+Studio/3602/.
It is quite small, and more aimed at outside living than anything else.
Sadly for us the first few days were cold due to the really strong north wind blowing continuously.
Sunday we went to Espereza to the market. All we heard spoken seemed to be English. It is a very popular area with ex-pats it seems (our hosts live there full time having moved there 4 years ago). Every shop we went into all week we heard lots of English voices, and there were lots of RHD French registered cars about.
Having picked up some food at the market we headed back. Later we went to see the Roman aqueduct at Ansignan. Built in the 3rd century it is still doing it's job today, surrounded by grapevines fed by it's waters. It was lovely to be able to explore it, and walk through it with was no-one else there.
Monday we headed for the coast, in the hope it would be warmer there. The wind was even worse in fact and at times it was hard to stand up. We crossed into Spain for lunch before driving back up the coast. Collioure was packed to the gunnels so we didn't even try and find a place to park.
I didn't enjoy the coast tbh. It was very built up and just didn't appeal to me.
That evening my husband stepped outside to get something, missed a step and pulled a muscle in his leg. Luckily the Prius is an automatic and so he could still drive.
Tuesday it was still really windy and beginning to really get me down. Nonetheless we headed off on a castle hunt. First we went in to Caudies to fine a pharmacie and get some strapping for his leg. Then we went off to Aguilar, Queribus, and Peyrepertuse. We shall have to return another year to actually visit them – my husband just couldn't manage the walk up to them, and nor could I. Plus it was so windy people at Peyrepertuse were saying it was very dodgy up there, though not quite windy enough for it to close.
We headed home via the Gorge de Galamus. Wow! Not for the faint hearted, especially driving it the way did. I was terrified, but also exhilarated by it. My husband didn't understand until we reached a pull-out and he could see for himself.
We visited the Hermitage too, which we both really enjoyed. My husband used one of my walking poles and we went the short route through the tunnel to it. Slow progress but we made it.
As the weather continued to be so miserable I seriously considered heading home early. My husband said give it one more day.
That day dawned wet. Very wet. But warmer, and with less wind. Eventually it cleared up a bit, but we didn't do a lot. Hunkered down and read.
Finally no wind. Thursday dawned sunny and warm and wind free. What a relief, what a difference!
We decided to visit Les Orgues by Iles sur Tetes and Serrabonne Priory. Both absolutely worth it. We couldn't walk around Les Orgues because his leg was bad again, but he did manage to get up to Serrabonne, which is wonderful. The carvings and the arches and the whole thing is just so unexpected from the outside.
Friday was a glorious day so we didn't do a lot. We visited Força Real for the view, and finally made use of the pool, before packing and cleaning and getting ready for home.
Highlights? Again the wild flowers everywhere, Gorge de Glalmus, Serrabonne, the aqueduct.
Lowlights? The wind, the coast, and my husband's leg.
And so back home. We stopped in Le Puy-en-Levay the first night, at a small hotel www.hotelvalvert.com/ . It was cheap, had free wifi, and the owners very friendly. Sadly the room was on the main road, so noisy, though it did quieten down eventually. There are rooms at the back which are quieter but they were all booked.
We also ate at the hotel. And yes we did have Puy Lentils, though not with the vegetarian menu, which I chose.
It is another town I want to return to and explore some more, but we had to press on. Our last night in France was spent at a rather boring Ibis in Tinqueux on the edge of Reims. I wouldn't recommend it.
I will happily return to the Lot again, and maybe to a different part of Languedoc, or further west in the Pyrenees maybe. Quite a turn around for someone who didn't want to go!
Hopefully next time we can do some walking.
Jun 23rd, 2010, 08:30 AM
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Really enjoyed your trip report. Sorry to hear of your weather and health issues, though.
We were in Collioure and the Costa Brava a week later and the weather couldn't have been better. It truly can make a major difference, but sounds like you did the best with what you were given.
Thanks again!
We were in Collioure and the Costa Brava a week later and the weather couldn't have been better. It truly can make a major difference, but sounds like you did the best with what you were given.
Thanks again!
Jun 23rd, 2010, 08:33 AM
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I loved that! You make everything so exciting.....but then France does excite me at the slightest suggestion! Hetismij I really envy you living so close and being able to just 'drive' there.
Thank you for such a lovely report.
Thank you for such a lovely report.
Jun 23rd, 2010, 10:27 AM
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Sorry about the incessant wind and your husband's leg but a great trip report. We'll be staying in Cucugnan ( visiting the various Cathar castles) in late September. We'll then spend three days in Prades before heading to Rennes-les-Bains. I have heard about how bad the the wind can get and am hoping it's not a problem. I'm determined to get to the top of both Queribus and Peyreptuse assuming they are open. I do have Collioure as a possibility but not if it's that crowded. Also plan on driving the Gorge de Galamus but your experience has me a bit concerned. I did have a look via video and didn't think it looked too bad. We are from Colorado so have some experience with that sort of road. Maybe I'll let Mr. History drive.
I would be interested in what you thought of the drive up to Serrabone. I've been thinking it'd be much worse than the Gorge. Forca Real is also on my itinerary.
Thanks for all the information. It certainly helps.
I would be interested in what you thought of the drive up to Serrabone. I've been thinking it'd be much worse than the Gorge. Forca Real is also on my itinerary.
Thanks for all the information. It certainly helps.
Jun 23rd, 2010, 11:38 AM
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Thanks for the kind comments.
If you drive the Gorge from St Paul up it is not scary - you are against the cliff wall. The majority of people seem to do it that way round. We did it the other way round, coming from the castles and needing to get back to Fosse. It was a tad scary, but it is well protected and you are in no danger of falling over the edge It is worth doing. Do visit the hermitage too. There are tow parking places for it. One is big with a kiosk selling drinks etc, but it is quite a long walk to the Hermitage. You get good views of it from that car park. The other is a smaller car park, further away from St Paul, but with an easier walk including a short tunnel.
You could do the round trip and walk back along the road of course.
Queribus isn't such a long walk up, and I am told is worth the effort for the views alone. Peyreptuse is a longer slog, but the better castle as I understand it. But not when it's blowing a gale
Have a great holiday!
If you drive the Gorge from St Paul up it is not scary - you are against the cliff wall. The majority of people seem to do it that way round. We did it the other way round, coming from the castles and needing to get back to Fosse. It was a tad scary, but it is well protected and you are in no danger of falling over the edge
It is worth doing. Do visit the hermitage too. There are tow parking places for it. One is big with a kiosk selling drinks etc, but it is quite a long walk to the Hermitage. You get good views of it from that car park. The other is a smaller car park, further away from St Paul, but with an easier walk including a short tunnel.You could do the round trip and walk back along the road of course.
Queribus isn't such a long walk up, and I am told is worth the effort for the views alone. Peyreptuse is a longer slog, but the better castle as I understand it. But not when it's blowing a gale
Have a great holiday!
Jun 23rd, 2010, 12:27 PM
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I said to B.J. the other day, "I wonder what happened to hetismij. She hasn't been posting lately". Now I find out you were on holiday in France. It sounds like you had a wonderful time, despite the winds. Last October we spent some time in Provence, (after meeting with you in Amsterdam) and the Mistral winds blew most of the time we were there. My long hair was one big natty mass of knot at the end of each day. I'll have to Google Earth some of the places you visited as I am not familiar with most of the names. I'm glad you had a wonderful journey and a safe return home.
Robyn
Robyn
Jul 11th, 2010, 11:06 AM
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Thanks for your interesting report. Sorry to hear about the bad weather and husband's leg. We were in Provence in early June and had lovely weather. We are planning a trip to the Dordorgne/Lot area of France next year. I love reading trip reports. Don't you just love France!
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