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Old Jun 5th, 2003, 03:54 AM
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1st timers (Italy) would appreciate advice.

Last October I travelled to France (16 days) with an old friend from high school . She and I had such a good time we're now planning a trip to Italy next year -- my sister may even join us.

We LOVED Paris. Museums, cafes, shopping. But more than anything we loved just walking around seeing/experiencing that magnificent city. Went down to the Dordogne, rented a car and drove up to Saumur, then Brittany--all in 7 days. We loved the paysage, but all that driving was a BIG mistake. We just barely touched the surface of each place---don't want to repeat that error.

We don't dine or shop extravagantly, but in France we averaged about 100E for two for dinner. Hotel rooms averaged 100 to 135 Euro per night.

With that in mind--we could use some advice about our first trip to Italy--15 days on the ground. We'd originally thought we would include 4 days in Provence and some time at Lake Como, but now think that doesn't make sense. We like visiting the countryside, but being in a town at night---walking to and from dinner.

We've pared it down to:
(Fly to Milan, train to Florence)
FLORENCE: 3 nights.

(Train to Lucca, rent car)
CASTELNUOVO di Garfagnana: 3 nights

SIENA: 2 nights

MONTEPULCIANO or Montalcino: 3 nights

(Turn in car at Orvietto, train to Rome)
ROME: 4 nights
(Fly out of Rome)

Does that sound about right for sampling the ambience of each place and seeing the sights? Rome has been added only after reading all these threads--many fans here. Given how much we liked Paris, I now think Rome may be a perfect place to end the trip.

We are considering mid June or late September. I wonder if either timeframe will offer better discounts? We are OK with arriving in a town without reservations, as long as it's not "high" season. Would you recommend one time over the other?

We welcome input from experienced Italy-travellers. Thanks in advance!

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Old Jun 5th, 2003, 04:44 AM
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"Museums, cafes, shopping. But more than anything we loved just walking around seeing/experiencing that magnificent city" You were describing Rome as well... you'll be glad you didn't miss it. Four nights in Rome will let you skim the surface, but don't worry, you'll fall in love with Rome and, like Paris, will already start thinking about a second visit........
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Old Jun 5th, 2003, 04:51 AM
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Hi
It sounds great. But Rome has so many treasures in museums and galleries and historic sights that 3.5 days or so will indeed just skim the surface. It is also quite a large city, and pretty spread out, and unlike Paris, the metro system's stops are much fewer and farther betweeen. Buses and walking take a lot of time. Do some pre-trip reading and research to figure out your priorities in Rome.

I have files on Florence and Rome; if you'd like to see them, email me at
[email protected]
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Old Jun 5th, 2003, 04:59 AM
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Sounds like a great trip to me. I especially "endorse" the 8 nights in Tuscany/Umbria, not counting the 3 in Florence, leaving you plenty of time to really enjoy that area.
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Old Jun 5th, 2003, 05:15 AM
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I'm thinking maybe we'd arrive in Montepulciano or Montalcino with no reservations.

That would give us flexibility. By then, we might want to only stay 2 nights and add that 5th night in Rome (after checking availability at our Rome hotel, of course).

What about the seasons---any preferences which might weigh on our decision?
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Old Jun 5th, 2003, 05:15 AM
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JeanneB - it sounds great! You will have a blast. My personal opinion would be mid-September. I went in October and the weather was fine in Rome/Tuscany area, and it was less crowded than the summer I would imagine.

Also, if you love cities, you will love Rome. My first day there, I felt overwhelmed because it is crowded and noisy with narrow sidewalks, but I came to the conclusion that my viewpoint was skewed because I had come from Venice (no cars, so it's amazingly quiet). After that, in the short time I was there, I fell in love with Rome. The piazzas are wonderful to sit outside and people watch etc. Same in Florence and Siena. Loved them both!

Karen
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Old Jun 5th, 2003, 05:19 AM
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I lean toward fall, too. (But it's soooo far off!) Wouldn't that be grape harvest time? Wine festivals? Now THAT would be fun!
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Old Jun 5th, 2003, 06:47 AM
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We went to Italy last July for 18 days. It was wonderful. I had reservations at all hotels because it was high season. The temp was in the mid 80's, not too hot.
September would be a great time to go because of the summer crowds!
I loved Lake Como, and if you're flying into Milan, maybe you could squeeze in a couple of days... it's only about an hour's drive from Milan, and quite beautiful.

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Old Jun 5th, 2003, 07:03 AM
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Jeanne, I love your new itinerary--you really did need to drop Provence.
I am curious why Castelnuova for 3 nites? I have stayed there and loved it but 3 days is a bit much .
Why not stay in Lucca and day trip to C.G. ? You will Lucca with your travel style--a very authentic Tuscan experience. And, I also suggest Sep. for what you want. You will need reservations in Tuscany for that time. Also, why train to Lucca--just get your car as you leave Florence--a taxi to the airport for pickup is only 15E.
Overall--a very good plan with a good mix of rural and cities.
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Old Jun 5th, 2003, 07:15 AM
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Hi Jeanne,

Do you have to fly into Milan? Both Florence and Pisa have airports. Cost from east coast of US is the same.
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Old Jun 5th, 2003, 09:21 AM
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Agree with Ira that if you can fly into Florence (tiny airport) or Pisa (small airport) rather than Milan, that's preferable. Another mid-sized airport that's closer to Florence than Milan would be Bologna. Worth a look....

Your itinerary sounds good to me. I love Lucca and recommend a day and a night there if it interests you.
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Old Jun 5th, 2003, 10:20 AM
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Bob, Ira, Lesli:

We fly out of Atlanta. Delta flies direct to Milan and out of Rome. I checked and it's $300 more to fly into Florence (also involves an extra stop in Paris). We would arrive in Milan at 9AM, so should be in Florence no more than an hour later than the direct flight.

Thanks for the tip to pick up car in Florence. Should be a nice drive.

I have always been intrigued with Lucca, so I'll suggest we make it our base for north Tuscany with day trip to C.G. With 3 nights in Lucca do you think we would have time to take a day in Cinque Terra? Or would that take away from touring Tuscany?

Lastly, am I right that we would be there for the wine festivals? (Leaving Sep. 22nd)
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Old Jun 5th, 2003, 12:06 PM
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Jeanne, IF weather is good, and IF you have 3 nites in Lucca, then yes you can do a day trip to the CT. I would drive early to Portovenere and take the boat from there--you can hop on and off at will. That is the closest from Lucca.
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Old Jun 5th, 2003, 12:21 PM
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When you're in Tuscany/Umbria, some other towms to chack out are Pienza (my favorite), Montichiello (off teh beaten path but adorable!), Cortona (great promenade at night), Gubbio and Spello. Alos, a tasting dinner at La Chiusa in Motefellonico is NOT to be missed. Siena is my favorite city (if one can call it that in Italy) and Assisi is lovely as well. These regions really is one of the most beautiful and culturally rich places in the world. You can't go wrong!
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Old Jun 5th, 2003, 12:24 PM
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I think you should swing over to Venice first!!
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Old Jun 5th, 2003, 12:41 PM
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Hi Jeanne,

Your trip sounds great. I wouldn't add extra cities as others have suggested. But, then again, I really like to absorb a place rather do the whirlwind tour (which I find too superficial).

I would agree with the others that September is a better time to go. Mid June really is the high season. September has nice weather and is less crowded.

I would suggest that if you cut a day off anywhere (I think someone suggested Castelnuova) that you add a day to Rome. I was in Rome for 8 nights on my first visit and still didn't want to leave! If you like big cities like Paris, it is absolutely fabulous. Also, I think someone said it was hard to get around, which I would disagree with. It is a large city, but there is public transportation and, actually, it is so wonderful I found that I just wanted to walk everywhere. The taxis are good too.


I would make reservations in advance for Rome, if you want to get a good deal.

Have a great time!
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Old Jun 5th, 2003, 04:01 PM
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We estimate that we walked 15 to 20 miles a day in Paris! Loved the way streets are designed to kind of draw you on...a surprise waits just around the next carfour! We used the Metro only when it was raining or we were in a hurry (or tired).

We very well may decide to allow an extra night in Rome. (After all, we DO have over a year to plan. Ha ha!)
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Old Jun 5th, 2003, 05:08 PM
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JeanneB: Good itinerary for first trip to Italy. You will get a good flavor. bobthenavigator makes some good suggestions. September is better (fewer tourists, better rates). Three days in Garafagna is too much unless you just want to laze around. Like your change to base in Lucca and daytrip to Castlenuovo and environs. Stay in Montepulciano, daytrip to Montalcino. You can pick your car up in Florence without having to go to the airport. 50 minute drive to Lucca, freeway all the way. Since you have the car, why not drive to Rome outskirts and drop it
there. You can drive as close to center as you feel comfortable doing and cab or bus to your hotel.
While you could daytrip to Cinque Terra, it would be a very rushed long day to see the five villages and you will be heartbroken to leave after such a short visit. Save it for another trip when you might do the Lakes as well.
You might run over to Pisa (from Lucca). If you are into architecture, you will be amazed at the three Pisan Romenesque edifices, the tower, the cathedral and the baptistery (inside and out) rather than the characature of the tower that leans.
Don't worry about references to "superficial". You have a very nice first trip planned and you have arranged for some time in each of the places or areas. Whatever you do, have a great trip.
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Old Jun 5th, 2003, 05:16 PM
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Just returned from first trip to Italy. Your ideas are good as are all posters. I would suggest you also consider the following which were about the best parts of our trip: San Gimignano and a balloon ride in Tuscany. (www.ballooningintuscany.com)
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Old Jun 5th, 2003, 05:52 PM
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Wow! Everyone has such excellent suggestions! Fodor's is a real treasure, isn't it?

I think I'm happy with this itinerary. Now, if friend agrees, I have to decide how to "prepare" for the trip.

Ordinarily I would devote the next year to learning everything---and reading every thread about---the places we'll be visiting. I would go to the library and lug home travel guides,
"Villages in ________" books, museum guides, art histories, and history books. Search the internet for newspaper articles and travel websites. What fun!

But it can also be overkill....take away some of the spontaneity. I have some basic knowledge of Florence (will bone up on the art). Frances Mayes has prepared me for being "under the tuscan sun". I'll get Michel Thomas' Italian tapes. And then there's Rome---I'll have to do some research on Rome. I realize I know very little about it. Now I'm anxious to change that!

Thanks, everyone, for your help.
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