16 Days in the Tracks of Fodorites - Rome, Pompeii, Pienza, Venice
Jan 27th, 2010, 09:11 AM
#41
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Nancy,
We too loved our stay at Locanda outside Orvieto~one of the highlights of our trip in 2008. We also dined at Latte di Luna. We happened to be there during the pecorino festival and brought back a large hoop of cheese that we enjoyed for several months.
Loved reliving our trip through your report. Thanks!!
We too loved our stay at Locanda outside Orvieto~one of the highlights of our trip in 2008. We also dined at Latte di Luna. We happened to be there during the pecorino festival and brought back a large hoop of cheese that we enjoyed for several months.
Loved reliving our trip through your report. Thanks!!
Jan 27th, 2010, 09:07 PM
#42
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Mmmmmm - the melted pecorino bruschette sounds so good. We had a white pizza with Pecorino and walnuts our last night in Pienza from the place right across from our hotel that was really unusual and very good. It never dawned on me I could bring that cheese home. I thought it would get taken away at the airport.
I will try to quickly finish my report on our stay in Tuscany and move on to Venice.
Day 12 - we set off for Volterra. I was interested in the Etruscan gate, and it did not disappoint. Just imagine how old it is. The drive up to Siena was not particularly lovely, but from there over to Volterra there were some beautiful vistas. We could see San G. in the distance, with the modern prison in the foreground. We had lunch and strolled through the town. Unfortunately our timing meant most things were closed - including the museum. We decided to go "cross country" for the trip home, heading south and then east on small roads. What a gorgeous drive that was. Again I took a hundred pictures, asking my son to stop every few feet it seemed.
Day 13 - Saturday. We drove to Siena. It was a foggy, gray morning - a good day for Siena because we planned to do museums. We started in the Palazzo Pubblico and loved the frescoes. Then it was on to the Duomo with its incredible art treasures. Arriving back in Pienza I returned to the little ceramics shop on the corner and bought the plate I had been coveting. We packed, had pizza in the room and watched football on the internet.
Day 14 - Sunday and we were on our way to Venice. It wasn't a difficult drive except that it was absolutely pouring rain most of the way. We had lunch at the Auto Grill. When we arrived at Piazzale Roma it was not only pouring, but the wind was blowing wildly - it was impossible to use an umbrella in the gale. I was nervous about how we were going to get to the hotel, but consoled myself that I had really studied how to do it on Fodors. By now we had accumulated a lot of "stuff" including several bottles of wine, ceramics, books and so forth. It was a lot for the two of us to schlep, and my son was pretty worried - especially given the weather. He wanted to cancel our reservation and stay somewhere that we could drive to. But I knew from Fodorites that we could get on the Vaporetto right there, and I thought we could carry everything. We found the office and bought three day vaporetto passes. My son qualified for a young persons rate. Then all we had to do was cross over to the boat dock and soon we were on our way - packed onto the very crowded boat. The windows were steamy and we feared we wouldn't know when we reached our stop. I bought a good map before leaving home, however, and had learned the basic geography of the city when researching hotels, so we got off at the right place and followed the easy directions provided by our hotel. It was still raining, but on the narrow streets, it was as though the rain couldn't get through. I was so glad our hotel was a straight shot from the boat stop and just three blocks away, with no bridges. I think my son was impressed and relieved that I could navigate us to our destination. Thanks Fodorites! We stayed at a little place called Dimora Marciana. It was very close to St. Marks square, but was on a dead-end lane or alley - so it was very quiet. My son wanted to just relax - he had done all that driving - but I couldn't wait to explore. Venice seemed very safe and walkable -I guess it is the lack of cars - and the rain had slackened. After walking in the area, I went over to the cathedral for mass. I had read that on Sunday evenings they lit up the mosaics and that this was the best way to see them. Sure enough, a side door was open. An attendant was refusing entrance to people just wanting to look around, but I asked if I could attend mass and was ushered right in. It was a wonderful opportunity to just sit and gaze at all that gold. Afterwards, I collected my son at the hotel and we set off to find dinner. I had read many negative things about restaurants near the square, so we kept walking, looking for something that seemed less touristy. We crossed over the Rialto bridge, and wandered away from the canal. Of course in this process, we had begun to experience the city and although it was chilly and dark, the rain had stopped for awhile and we were enjoying exploring. Finally we stopped at a little pizza/pasta place - I have no idea exactly where it was or its name - but it was casual and the food was decent. We didn't feel ripped off. To get home, we caught the Vaporetto and rode it around to the stop near our hotel.
Day 15 - More Venice! It was still drizzling off and on. We headed back to the cathedral because I wanted my son to see it. To our amazement, the interior was all lit up, just as it had been the night before, beautifully illuminating the mosaics. We spent a couple of hours touring every nook and cranny and just as we left, the lights were turned off! We felt so fortunate to have been there when they were on. We were very close to our hotel, so we returned for a pit stop and short rest. The afternoon was spent at the Doge's palace. We particularly enjoyed the map room. We didn't do the secret tour, but I don't think we would have had the energy anyway.
Day 16 - it was our last full day in Italy and the sun was shining bright! We got on the Vaporetto first thing and rode it all the way to the Lido, whereupon it turned around and we rode it all the way back and on up the Grand Canal. This was just pure pleasure. It was a beautiful day, and we had great seats in the open air at the back. We got off at the end and made our way to the Scuola grande di San Rocco to see the Tintorettos, and to visit S. Maria G. dei Frari. Then we just continued wandering. I couldn't retrace our steps exactly if I had to. We wound up in late afternoon in a cafe on the Zattere, gazing at the water and basking in the sun. I had to push my son to do it - he was pretty tired of art - but after some gelato he agreed to go to the Accademia. We were disappointed in it, however. The lighting on many of the paintings was poor and several of the things we most wanted to see were in rooms that were closed. We had tickets that evening for the Vivaldi concert at the San Vidal church that I had read about on the Forums. It was a wonderful conclusion to the trip.
I know there was much of Venice that we missed, but I am glad we didn't try to do a forced march through all the sights. Venice seemed to be full of tourists - although we never had to stand in line for anything. I can't imagine how crowded it must be in the summer. I have some wonderful pictures and wonderful memories and feel fortunate that we had one day of brilliant weather, and the other day to enjoy the museums.
The next morning we had a 10am flight to Frankfurt and then on to Houston and Austin. We rode the vaporetto to the bus station. I sat in front taking pictures of the buildings in the morning light. It had been a fabulous trip, but I was ready to go home. I cannot thank everyone on Fodors enough for all your advice and shared information. I am convinced it made a good trip great. Now - where shall I go next time?
I will try to quickly finish my report on our stay in Tuscany and move on to Venice.
Day 12 - we set off for Volterra. I was interested in the Etruscan gate, and it did not disappoint. Just imagine how old it is. The drive up to Siena was not particularly lovely, but from there over to Volterra there were some beautiful vistas. We could see San G. in the distance, with the modern prison in the foreground. We had lunch and strolled through the town. Unfortunately our timing meant most things were closed - including the museum. We decided to go "cross country" for the trip home, heading south and then east on small roads. What a gorgeous drive that was. Again I took a hundred pictures, asking my son to stop every few feet it seemed.
Day 13 - Saturday. We drove to Siena. It was a foggy, gray morning - a good day for Siena because we planned to do museums. We started in the Palazzo Pubblico and loved the frescoes. Then it was on to the Duomo with its incredible art treasures. Arriving back in Pienza I returned to the little ceramics shop on the corner and bought the plate I had been coveting. We packed, had pizza in the room and watched football on the internet.
Day 14 - Sunday and we were on our way to Venice. It wasn't a difficult drive except that it was absolutely pouring rain most of the way. We had lunch at the Auto Grill. When we arrived at Piazzale Roma it was not only pouring, but the wind was blowing wildly - it was impossible to use an umbrella in the gale. I was nervous about how we were going to get to the hotel, but consoled myself that I had really studied how to do it on Fodors. By now we had accumulated a lot of "stuff" including several bottles of wine, ceramics, books and so forth. It was a lot for the two of us to schlep, and my son was pretty worried - especially given the weather. He wanted to cancel our reservation and stay somewhere that we could drive to. But I knew from Fodorites that we could get on the Vaporetto right there, and I thought we could carry everything. We found the office and bought three day vaporetto passes. My son qualified for a young persons rate. Then all we had to do was cross over to the boat dock and soon we were on our way - packed onto the very crowded boat. The windows were steamy and we feared we wouldn't know when we reached our stop. I bought a good map before leaving home, however, and had learned the basic geography of the city when researching hotels, so we got off at the right place and followed the easy directions provided by our hotel. It was still raining, but on the narrow streets, it was as though the rain couldn't get through. I was so glad our hotel was a straight shot from the boat stop and just three blocks away, with no bridges. I think my son was impressed and relieved that I could navigate us to our destination. Thanks Fodorites! We stayed at a little place called Dimora Marciana. It was very close to St. Marks square, but was on a dead-end lane or alley - so it was very quiet. My son wanted to just relax - he had done all that driving - but I couldn't wait to explore. Venice seemed very safe and walkable -I guess it is the lack of cars - and the rain had slackened. After walking in the area, I went over to the cathedral for mass. I had read that on Sunday evenings they lit up the mosaics and that this was the best way to see them. Sure enough, a side door was open. An attendant was refusing entrance to people just wanting to look around, but I asked if I could attend mass and was ushered right in. It was a wonderful opportunity to just sit and gaze at all that gold. Afterwards, I collected my son at the hotel and we set off to find dinner. I had read many negative things about restaurants near the square, so we kept walking, looking for something that seemed less touristy. We crossed over the Rialto bridge, and wandered away from the canal. Of course in this process, we had begun to experience the city and although it was chilly and dark, the rain had stopped for awhile and we were enjoying exploring. Finally we stopped at a little pizza/pasta place - I have no idea exactly where it was or its name - but it was casual and the food was decent. We didn't feel ripped off. To get home, we caught the Vaporetto and rode it around to the stop near our hotel.
Day 15 - More Venice! It was still drizzling off and on. We headed back to the cathedral because I wanted my son to see it. To our amazement, the interior was all lit up, just as it had been the night before, beautifully illuminating the mosaics. We spent a couple of hours touring every nook and cranny and just as we left, the lights were turned off! We felt so fortunate to have been there when they were on. We were very close to our hotel, so we returned for a pit stop and short rest. The afternoon was spent at the Doge's palace. We particularly enjoyed the map room. We didn't do the secret tour, but I don't think we would have had the energy anyway.
Day 16 - it was our last full day in Italy and the sun was shining bright! We got on the Vaporetto first thing and rode it all the way to the Lido, whereupon it turned around and we rode it all the way back and on up the Grand Canal. This was just pure pleasure. It was a beautiful day, and we had great seats in the open air at the back. We got off at the end and made our way to the Scuola grande di San Rocco to see the Tintorettos, and to visit S. Maria G. dei Frari. Then we just continued wandering. I couldn't retrace our steps exactly if I had to. We wound up in late afternoon in a cafe on the Zattere, gazing at the water and basking in the sun. I had to push my son to do it - he was pretty tired of art - but after some gelato he agreed to go to the Accademia. We were disappointed in it, however. The lighting on many of the paintings was poor and several of the things we most wanted to see were in rooms that were closed. We had tickets that evening for the Vivaldi concert at the San Vidal church that I had read about on the Forums. It was a wonderful conclusion to the trip.
I know there was much of Venice that we missed, but I am glad we didn't try to do a forced march through all the sights. Venice seemed to be full of tourists - although we never had to stand in line for anything. I can't imagine how crowded it must be in the summer. I have some wonderful pictures and wonderful memories and feel fortunate that we had one day of brilliant weather, and the other day to enjoy the museums.
The next morning we had a 10am flight to Frankfurt and then on to Houston and Austin. We rode the vaporetto to the bus station. I sat in front taking pictures of the buildings in the morning light. It had been a fabulous trip, but I was ready to go home. I cannot thank everyone on Fodors enough for all your advice and shared information. I am convinced it made a good trip great. Now - where shall I go next time?
Jan 28th, 2010, 11:47 AM
#48
ditto, Nancy.
we were able to get into the Easter sunday service in San Marco and i had no problem sitting still for what seemed like a very long time, just looking up at the ceiling. I did find a website that tells you when the moasaics are lit up, but I've lost it again. I'm glad you saw them too.
also like you, I was not overwhelmed by the Accademia; though there are a few paintings there that I'm drawn to, a lot of them seem to be there to make up the numbers. But as we got in free [it was a special museum week when we were there, though they were very bad at telling you what was going to be free when] I was less inclined to grumble.
thanks for sharing your trip with us,
regards, ann
we were able to get into the Easter sunday service in San Marco and i had no problem sitting still for what seemed like a very long time, just looking up at the ceiling. I did find a website that tells you when the moasaics are lit up, but I've lost it again. I'm glad you saw them too.
also like you, I was not overwhelmed by the Accademia; though there are a few paintings there that I'm drawn to, a lot of them seem to be there to make up the numbers. But as we got in free [it was a special museum week when we were there, though they were very bad at telling you what was going to be free when] I was less inclined to grumble.
thanks for sharing your trip with us,
regards, ann
Jan 28th, 2010, 01:53 PM
#49
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nancy, thanks again for sharing! It is always so nice to find new little things to take with me on my next visit.
Of course, your next trip must be Florence, the Cinque Terre and onto the Amalfi coast, of course! Start planning!
April 20th won't come soon enough for me! And I can't wait to get my hands on some of that Pecorino! I too am fond of the pecorino. Perfect shaved over fresh pears and then drizzed with chestnut honey. OMG!!!
Yum!
(I hope I can meet up with you at a Fodors GTG in Austin, soon! I hardly need an excuse to depart the DFW Metroplex for fun!)
Paula
Of course, your next trip must be Florence, the Cinque Terre and onto the Amalfi coast, of course! Start planning!
April 20th won't come soon enough for me! And I can't wait to get my hands on some of that Pecorino! I too am fond of the pecorino. Perfect shaved over fresh pears and then drizzed with chestnut honey. OMG!!!
Yum!(I hope I can meet up with you at a Fodors GTG in Austin, soon! I hardly need an excuse to depart the DFW Metroplex for fun!)
Paula
