10 Days in Provence/Riviera this May...Two Bases?
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10 Days in Provence/Riviera this May...Two Bases?
Hi all,
Suddenly my husband and I have a change in our work situations and will have time to make a 9-10 day trip in the beginning of May. We have our hearts set on visiting Provence and the Riviera in France. I know we are very late in the process. I have a few questions. For context, we are in our late 20's, and want a mix of culture/history/art + entertainment (i.e. obviously we are not expecting raging nightclubs, but some nightlife wouldn't be awful).
1) We will fly from NYC to Nice.
2) We want to have a base in the Riviera (Nice looks like the best bet) to explore Monaco, Cannes and Nice itself. We also want to have a base somewhere in Provence. What would you suggest? Aix, Avignon or St. Remy? We will be renting a rent a car. Or does it make more sense to keep only one base as Nice and drive everywhere?
3) If it makes sense to have two bases, how many nights should we spend at each one?
3) When we fly into Nice, should take a train straight to a town in Provence and make Nice our second base, since we will be flying out of there? Where is it best to rent the car from - Nice? Do we need to have a car in Nice too, to explore the coast?
I know these are a lot of questions, but I would really appreciate your insights.
Suddenly my husband and I have a change in our work situations and will have time to make a 9-10 day trip in the beginning of May. We have our hearts set on visiting Provence and the Riviera in France. I know we are very late in the process. I have a few questions. For context, we are in our late 20's, and want a mix of culture/history/art + entertainment (i.e. obviously we are not expecting raging nightclubs, but some nightlife wouldn't be awful).
1) We will fly from NYC to Nice.
2) We want to have a base in the Riviera (Nice looks like the best bet) to explore Monaco, Cannes and Nice itself. We also want to have a base somewhere in Provence. What would you suggest? Aix, Avignon or St. Remy? We will be renting a rent a car. Or does it make more sense to keep only one base as Nice and drive everywhere?
3) If it makes sense to have two bases, how many nights should we spend at each one?
3) When we fly into Nice, should take a train straight to a town in Provence and make Nice our second base, since we will be flying out of there? Where is it best to rent the car from - Nice? Do we need to have a car in Nice too, to explore the coast?
I know these are a lot of questions, but I would really appreciate your insights.
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We did a similar a trip last year, except we flew to Paris for several days and then took the TGV to Avignon, then drove. We stayed in Aix the first and last nights of the Provence leg, St. Remy several nights, then moved near Nice to Saint-Paul-de-Vence for several nights before driving back to Aix. So we did a lot of day trips out of St. Remy and Saint-Paul.
So some thoughts/opinions on a couple of your questions:
We also want to have a base somewhere in Provence. What would you suggest? Aix, Avignon or St. Remy?
We found that driving around in the larger towns like Aix and Avignon was a bit nerve-wracking, and driving around in the smaller towns like St. Remy was much more relaxed, just due to the lighter traffic and fewer ways to get lost or irk the locals with our cautious touristic driving. So I would recommend St. Remy (you are younger and probably bolder than us though).
Or does it make more sense to keep only one base as Nice and drive everywhere?
There was plenty to do in both areas while we were there in late June. Perhaps early May is different and Nice is better that time of year (we had lavender blooming in June in Provence, for example, but May is too early). For sure we enjoyed both areas. Hopefully Stu Dudley or someone with a lot of experience at both times and places will chime in.
So some thoughts/opinions on a couple of your questions:
We also want to have a base somewhere in Provence. What would you suggest? Aix, Avignon or St. Remy?
We found that driving around in the larger towns like Aix and Avignon was a bit nerve-wracking, and driving around in the smaller towns like St. Remy was much more relaxed, just due to the lighter traffic and fewer ways to get lost or irk the locals with our cautious touristic driving. So I would recommend St. Remy (you are younger and probably bolder than us though).
Or does it make more sense to keep only one base as Nice and drive everywhere?
There was plenty to do in both areas while we were there in late June. Perhaps early May is different and Nice is better that time of year (we had lavender blooming in June in Provence, for example, but May is too early). For sure we enjoyed both areas. Hopefully Stu Dudley or someone with a lot of experience at both times and places will chime in.
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I think I just sent you my itinerary by e-mail.
Anyhow, I would base in Nice for several nights - first few days without a car & the last two with so you can explore the Nice Hinterland (see my itinerary). Then head to Provence, stopping in Aix for a visit on the way (or the way back). Either St Remy or in the Luberon would be my choice for a place to stay.
Don't stay in 1 place & try to explore both the Cote & Provence - too much driving.
Stu Dudley
Anyhow, I would base in Nice for several nights - first few days without a car & the last two with so you can explore the Nice Hinterland (see my itinerary). Then head to Provence, stopping in Aix for a visit on the way (or the way back). Either St Remy or in the Luberon would be my choice for a place to stay.
Don't stay in 1 place & try to explore both the Cote & Provence - too much driving.
Stu Dudley
#4
I took the same trip as you, as kind of modified by Bill this past September (LA to Paris; TGV to Nice; rented car to Avignon; TGV to Paris). Based on that, here are my thoughts:
Where to base yourself: We muddled through that question as well and ultimately decided on Nice and Avignon for the simple reason is that both made good bases for day trips.
For example, from the base in Avignon, we took day trips to St. Remy, Arles, and other little towns in and around the area.
From the base in Nice, we took day trips to St. Paul de Vence, Monaco, Cagnes-sur-Mer, Juan les Pins, and Antibes.
We rented a car in Nice and dropped it off in Avignon. Downside to maintaining a car in Nice is the cost of parking it overnight is almost as much as the rental itself. Nonetheless, it allowed us plenty of freedom to get up and go when we wanted without having to rely on public transportation.
In Nice, I highly recommend the Hotel Grimaldi. Really charming, not too expensive, centrally located -- 2 blocks to the pedestrian street.
http://www.le-grimaldi.com/
Because this hotel is very popular, if you want to stay there, you will have better luck coming into Nice and going directly to location #2 and end up in Nice.
There's another recent thread on hotels in Avignon, if you do a search for "Avignon" in the search box, you'll doubtless bring it up. From about 2 weeks ago.
I prefer staying in the larger towns than smaller towns, only because when I'm on vacation, I like to stay up late and have something of a nightlife, even if it's just sitting in a cafe drinking wine, but generally go for little spots where there's music playing. Jazz in France is hugely popular and there are a number of jazz clubs, and less blues or rock. Techno clubs definitely (I personally hate the later day discos; didn't care for them in the '70's either, too much strobe lighting and bump bump bump music) -- just open your ears for them. Prefer that more lively atmosphere to small towns where the lights go out at 9 p.m., but that's a personal preference. and it may not be yours.
Now for the drive between the two bases, that's the time when you can explore coastal towns like Ste. Maximes (always a good lunch spot!); St. Tropez (although you'll end up having to backtrack to the hwy a bit)(but worth seeing); and inland, Aix en Province.
Either have change or your credit card out because there are plenty of toll roads between the two towns. I'd also recommend either getting navigation (in English if you speak no French) if you've never been to this area, or bring a portable one on which you've uploaded the map of France. That is, if you don't do maps anymore.
Nice most of all, is difficult to navigate because of the one-way street system. Avignon is pretty easy, imo, although we had a bear of a time finding the TGV station (which won't be a problem with you) and went off in wildly different directions twice trying to find it.
Where to base yourself: We muddled through that question as well and ultimately decided on Nice and Avignon for the simple reason is that both made good bases for day trips.
For example, from the base in Avignon, we took day trips to St. Remy, Arles, and other little towns in and around the area.
From the base in Nice, we took day trips to St. Paul de Vence, Monaco, Cagnes-sur-Mer, Juan les Pins, and Antibes.
We rented a car in Nice and dropped it off in Avignon. Downside to maintaining a car in Nice is the cost of parking it overnight is almost as much as the rental itself. Nonetheless, it allowed us plenty of freedom to get up and go when we wanted without having to rely on public transportation.
In Nice, I highly recommend the Hotel Grimaldi. Really charming, not too expensive, centrally located -- 2 blocks to the pedestrian street.
http://www.le-grimaldi.com/
Because this hotel is very popular, if you want to stay there, you will have better luck coming into Nice and going directly to location #2 and end up in Nice.
There's another recent thread on hotels in Avignon, if you do a search for "Avignon" in the search box, you'll doubtless bring it up. From about 2 weeks ago.
I prefer staying in the larger towns than smaller towns, only because when I'm on vacation, I like to stay up late and have something of a nightlife, even if it's just sitting in a cafe drinking wine, but generally go for little spots where there's music playing. Jazz in France is hugely popular and there are a number of jazz clubs, and less blues or rock. Techno clubs definitely (I personally hate the later day discos; didn't care for them in the '70's either, too much strobe lighting and bump bump bump music) -- just open your ears for them. Prefer that more lively atmosphere to small towns where the lights go out at 9 p.m., but that's a personal preference. and it may not be yours.
Now for the drive between the two bases, that's the time when you can explore coastal towns like Ste. Maximes (always a good lunch spot!); St. Tropez (although you'll end up having to backtrack to the hwy a bit)(but worth seeing); and inland, Aix en Province.
Either have change or your credit card out because there are plenty of toll roads between the two towns. I'd also recommend either getting navigation (in English if you speak no French) if you've never been to this area, or bring a portable one on which you've uploaded the map of France. That is, if you don't do maps anymore.
Nice most of all, is difficult to navigate because of the one-way street system. Avignon is pretty easy, imo, although we had a bear of a time finding the TGV station (which won't be a problem with you) and went off in wildly different directions twice trying to find it.
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Thank you all for the help. Stu, I got your email - thank you again. So it definitely makes sense to have two bases. Nice for sure, though I am seeing wildly differing reports on where to make the base in Provence - the larger town on Avignon and the smaller towns, like St. Remy.
In terms of renting a car, Surfergirl, you mentioned dropping it off in a different location than where you first got it. Does it make sense to rent the car at the Nice airport, drive to our base in Provence, or take the train there and rent the car in that town? I'm just confused on how to minimize the cost of renting a car, that is, having it for the least possible days. I guess the complication we has is that we are flying into/out of Nice and not Paris
In terms of renting a car, Surfergirl, you mentioned dropping it off in a different location than where you first got it. Does it make sense to rent the car at the Nice airport, drive to our base in Provence, or take the train there and rent the car in that town? I'm just confused on how to minimize the cost of renting a car, that is, having it for the least possible days. I guess the complication we has is that we are flying into/out of Nice and not Paris
#6
I think the answer depends on where you will base yourself in Provence -- whether there's easy train and car rental access (as was the case in both Nice and Avignon), as well as the cost factor -- difference in price of the train + drop off fee vs. just holding onto the car. One more thing to consider is jet lag, since even though you'll be coming from the east coast, you might be too tired to drive that far and be able to concentrate on the driving.
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Car rentals are based on WHEN in the day you pick up & return the car, in addition to what day. For example, if you pick up a car in Nice at 10am, and return it in Avignon at (or before) 10am then next day - that is a 1 day rental. If you return the car at 12:00noon - it is a 2 day rental. Also, cars you rent at either the airport or train station have an extra train/airport surcharge.
To minimize hotel changes & car costs, pick up a car at the Nice airport when you land - say noon. Drive to Aix, have lunch on the Cours, visit Aix & stay 5 days in St Remy or the Luberon. Leave Provence at 8:30, drive to the Nice train statioin, return the car before noon, and walk/taxi to your hotel. If you want to keep it additional days, just make sure you return it before noon. I would not bother with the train. The freeway drive between Nice & Provence is actually quite scenic close to the St Tropez exit & other spots.
If you stay in Nice, I would not stay in Avignon - too much city, IMO. Also, driving in & out of Avignon is confusing the first few times you try it, & quite ugly (urban sprawl) every time you make the drive. Stay in either St Remy or the Luberon.
Stu Dudley
To minimize hotel changes & car costs, pick up a car at the Nice airport when you land - say noon. Drive to Aix, have lunch on the Cours, visit Aix & stay 5 days in St Remy or the Luberon. Leave Provence at 8:30, drive to the Nice train statioin, return the car before noon, and walk/taxi to your hotel. If you want to keep it additional days, just make sure you return it before noon. I would not bother with the train. The freeway drive between Nice & Provence is actually quite scenic close to the St Tropez exit & other spots.
If you stay in Nice, I would not stay in Avignon - too much city, IMO. Also, driving in & out of Avignon is confusing the first few times you try it, & quite ugly (urban sprawl) every time you make the drive. Stay in either St Remy or the Luberon.
Stu Dudley
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Almost forgot - you you have my 27 page Povence & Cote d'Azur itinerary??? I've sent it to over 1,000 people on aol & Fodors travel forums. E-mail me at [email protected] if you want a copy & I'll attach it to a reply e-mail.
Stu Dudley
Stu Dudley