Just back from a wonderful Vieques trip. I highly recommend the Hix Island House. While it's a bit of a splurge, it's really worth it. The "lofts" are huge, and jaw-droppingly beautiful. I especially appreciated the kitchen, complete with All-Clad pots to cook in. The homemade bread they give you daily was delicious, too. We loved how it was open to the elements, and had fun watching the little lizards on the walls!

The beaches in Vieques were remarkable. If you go early in the day, you have the beach all to yourself. And even when more people come, they are still very private. The roads leading to the beaches are an adventure - you couldn't do it without a jeep. The best snorkeling we found was off Mosquito Pier, which doesn't look like anything but underwater - wow!

Speaking of cars, I wouldn't rent from Marco's again. They have very sporadic hours, to say the least, so you could get really stuck if something goes wrong.

Before Hix, we also stayed at Casa Alta Vista. I guess this place would be good if you are on a tight budget, but it was basically a place to sleep and that's it. Very bare-bones. Esperanza is a fun location, though.

I don't think the restaurants on Vieques are worth the money. We enjoyed Tropical Baby, but had the most hilariously clueless service, it was unbelievable. Media Luna was good, but I found it odd (for a Mediterranean restaurant) that they put butter in everything - even the pizza crust.

Grocery shopping is a bit difficult on Vieques. The stores have a spotty selection, and it gets very picked over. But we still enjoyed cooking more than eating out.

Vieques is especially great for animal lovers. I couldn't get enough of all the wild horses, plus goats, chickens, iguanas, etc. There are also a lot of stray dogs, but I have to say, they seem to have a pretty good life and appeared well-fed.

Vieques is great for those who don't want the usual resort vacation. It's a bit rough around the edges, but that's what makes it special.

This was a terrific, informative report-- just wanted to say thanks.

Thanks for the great trip report. My husband and I are heading there in May for a long weekend with our granddaughter for her 13th birthday.

Snorkeling is one of our favorite activities, so I was wondering if you would share more details about what you liked so much about Mosquito Pier as well as other snorkeling spots you visited.

Were there any areas in particular you'd recommend for shooting some wild horses? My husband is an artist and is always looking for ways to photograph animals to use for future projects.

HI EJ--Don't kow whether you have read my Vieques trip reports. Not sure they are on Fodors but there are two on www.caribbean-on-line.com Puerto Rico forum around early nov 03 and late feb 04. Try a Vieques or Howard search. We stayed at Wyndham Martineau Bay which is now either a Rosewood or Starwood resort. You will need a car. We used Martineau Bay Car rental. Reserve early and get confirmation # as rental cars are scarce on Vieques. Where are you staying?? Re mosquito pier--On Route 200 going west past the airport. I went about half way out the pier to snorkel but it is hard getting in the water because of the rocks. Best bet is there is a small beach to the left of the pier. Park and snorkel off the beach. Normally when you snorkel you might see a couple of starfish. There were hunreds Really awesome. If you keep going west toward Green Beach there are lots of horses roaming. We had to stop while about 30 crossed the road. We went to Green beach in the morning when it was high tide so there wasn't much beach. At Sun beach in Esperanza there are some wild horses on the left. Snorkeled at Red beach on the left side but heard the side to the right is better. Drove to Navio Beach where they filmed Lord of the Flies. Road was awful. Senic spot but not sure it was worth it. Used Island Advertures in Esperanza for the BIo bay tour. HIghly recommend. If it is a moonlit night you can swim under the catamaran for the full effect. Restaurants. We liked Media Luna in Isabel II--Tapas portions--Husband and wife own it and she cooks in an open kitchen. Bayaonda has closed unfortunately. Blue McCaw was excelent but they had a kitchen fire so don't know if they have reopened. Liked eating in the bar area--Less formal. Bananas is good for lunch and had a good dinner at La Serina... Crows Nest is good for steak. Chez Shack was excellent but heard the chef left so don't know how it is now. Coconuts in Isabel II has Paella night on Friday. You might check out the restaurant at the old Wyndham. Very nice setting. Have a great trip.

Howard, thank you so much for your details and suggestions. I think I tried searching here at Fodor's for your Vieques trip report(s) and was unsuccessful, so I'll try the other forums.

To snorkel at Mosquito Pier, just take the road to the left that goes to a boat launch. It's not hard to get in the water at all. Snorkel down the whole length of the pier. We saw thousands of fish, plus a barracuda, lobsters, all kinds of cool stuff. Really take your time - go slow because it takes a while to notice some things. We also snorkeled a bit at Secret Beach, but it didn't compare.

Late getting in on this post - considering Vieques trip but have been unable to locate info on getting to the island from San Juan airport. What are the logistics issues/ferry schedules/etc?

Try www.vieques-island.com.