Gyppielou's scooterlicious bermudian adventure. A trip report.
Sep 17th, 2008, 05:03 PM
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Gyppielou's scooterlicious bermudian adventure. A trip report.
First and foremost.
Thank you to everyone here and at tripadvisor and chowhound that took the time to give me thoughts, suggestions and advice.
It was a glorious whirlwind trip.
Takeoff from Boston to Bermuda on Delta - great, fast flight, said the girl used to traveling a dozen hours to her hawaii!
I was meeting my mom and sister, and staying for 3 nights. I may not know how to pack for winter or Europe, but this wahine knows how to pack for the islands. I filled a small dufflebag with rolled tops and slacks and capris and leather flip flops, etc, wore a designer sweatshirt and keen's and boarded the plane with reef shoes and snorkle and mask.
Arrived in Bermuda to be met by a lovely gentleman holding a sign with my name. We walked about 50 yards to my ride. Eve's Scooters meets you at the airport and will deliver your luggage, but since I had an apartment arrangement, I packed small and sensibly, brought a couple of bungie chords and with snorkle gear under the seat and duffle bungied to the basket, I was off and independent in mere minutes. A heavenly start!
10 minutes later it started pouring! I have been to the island a few times, so just took off in the rain without looking at a map, taking the I'll get lost and eventually arrive scenic route to Warwick.
Everything I have read about Clairfont Apartments is true. Don't tell your friends, but this is the greatest, cleanest, well located place I could have hoped for. It is apparent why so many return to this place. The manager Corrine is meticulous and the 8 apartments are simple and spot check clean. The pool is nice to relax by, and the grounds have some lovely plantings.
Again thank you everyone who suggested this place. Shhhhhh - don't tell, or it will be impossible to book.
more sooon..........
Thank you to everyone here and at tripadvisor and chowhound that took the time to give me thoughts, suggestions and advice.
It was a glorious whirlwind trip.
Takeoff from Boston to Bermuda on Delta - great, fast flight, said the girl used to traveling a dozen hours to her hawaii!
I was meeting my mom and sister, and staying for 3 nights. I may not know how to pack for winter or Europe, but this wahine knows how to pack for the islands. I filled a small dufflebag with rolled tops and slacks and capris and leather flip flops, etc, wore a designer sweatshirt and keen's and boarded the plane with reef shoes and snorkle and mask.
Arrived in Bermuda to be met by a lovely gentleman holding a sign with my name. We walked about 50 yards to my ride. Eve's Scooters meets you at the airport and will deliver your luggage, but since I had an apartment arrangement, I packed small and sensibly, brought a couple of bungie chords and with snorkle gear under the seat and duffle bungied to the basket, I was off and independent in mere minutes. A heavenly start!
10 minutes later it started pouring! I have been to the island a few times, so just took off in the rain without looking at a map, taking the I'll get lost and eventually arrive scenic route to Warwick.
Everything I have read about Clairfont Apartments is true. Don't tell your friends, but this is the greatest, cleanest, well located place I could have hoped for. It is apparent why so many return to this place. The manager Corrine is meticulous and the 8 apartments are simple and spot check clean. The pool is nice to relax by, and the grounds have some lovely plantings.
Again thank you everyone who suggested this place. Shhhhhh - don't tell, or it will be impossible to book.
more sooon..........
Sep 17th, 2008, 06:01 PM
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Warning: This trip report is going to talk about food and restaurants with great detail. This is because I asked detailed questions, so the less food obsessed should speed read this report, lest they get annoyed!
Checked in at Clairfont, thankfully the duffle bag did not get too wet and I was able to hang and stow my clothes.
Alone on an island. This is new. So I headed out again on the scooter and drove and drove and drove. Picked up provisions for my future travelmates - my mom and sister. Did drivebyes of restaurants and areas to come up with a plan for my non Moped travel companions. Spent, I returned 'home' , locked up the scooter, stocked the fridge and took a dip in the pool.
Called mrlou to tell him the scooter was put away for the night. I never changed my phone plan, so phone calls to my dear husband were a minute or two a day to let him know I hadn't spilled out on the scooter, at about $1.49 a minute.
Called a cab and headed to Southhampton Princess, Jasmine Lounge/room.
Now this would not have been my first choice, but I was alone, and hungry and although I like the look of Blu and Harbourfront, an elegant hotel lounge sometimes fits the bill. I arrived, found a wonderful table and begged for a burger, which was not on the menu. A martini, a burger and a wonderful man at the piano and an excellent server was all I needed. The burger was over seasoned but worked. Would I suggest it, no, but it was perfect and the entertainment and atmosphere were perfect for this solo girls needs.
Note to Travellers: Tip your entertainment. Even if they dont have a glass bowl out with a dollar.....tip them!!!! And tip them in front of patrons to they may follow suit.
Checked in at Clairfont, thankfully the duffle bag did not get too wet and I was able to hang and stow my clothes.
Alone on an island. This is new. So I headed out again on the scooter and drove and drove and drove. Picked up provisions for my future travelmates - my mom and sister. Did drivebyes of restaurants and areas to come up with a plan for my non Moped travel companions. Spent, I returned 'home' , locked up the scooter, stocked the fridge and took a dip in the pool.
Called mrlou to tell him the scooter was put away for the night. I never changed my phone plan, so phone calls to my dear husband were a minute or two a day to let him know I hadn't spilled out on the scooter, at about $1.49 a minute.
Called a cab and headed to Southhampton Princess, Jasmine Lounge/room.
Now this would not have been my first choice, but I was alone, and hungry and although I like the look of Blu and Harbourfront, an elegant hotel lounge sometimes fits the bill. I arrived, found a wonderful table and begged for a burger, which was not on the menu. A martini, a burger and a wonderful man at the piano and an excellent server was all I needed. The burger was over seasoned but worked. Would I suggest it, no, but it was perfect and the entertainment and atmosphere were perfect for this solo girls needs.
Note to Travellers: Tip your entertainment. Even if they dont have a glass bowl out with a dollar.....tip them!!!! And tip them in front of patrons to they may follow suit.
Sep 17th, 2008, 06:11 PM
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First somber moment: Arriving, and not being met by my favorite Bermudian cabdriver friend who passed a few years ago.
Second somber moment: scootering by the old Sonesta, the first hotel mrlou and I shared. All but about a dozen hotel rooms are gone. Just a sad reminder of a beautiful place we shared, and the wrath of mother nature. So many places of the past are gone, but this was a big resort and to look down from HenryVIII to see one single crumbled piece of where I once laid my head......well.....mother earth does take claim to this earth of ours.
Second somber moment: scootering by the old Sonesta, the first hotel mrlou and I shared. All but about a dozen hotel rooms are gone. Just a sad reminder of a beautiful place we shared, and the wrath of mother nature. So many places of the past are gone, but this was a big resort and to look down from HenryVIII to see one single crumbled piece of where I once laid my head......well.....mother earth does take claim to this earth of ours.
Sep 18th, 2008, 01:23 PM
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How lovely to no longer have a one way conversation with my computer screen emcash! LOL!
Well, let's see....
Each time I was in a cab, I asked if they knew my dear friend Richard, who passed about 6 years ago.
The first gentleman driver said, "Oh yes, he was a very honourable man, a good man." The second driver said, "Sure I remember Richard. He was a self made man, a fine gentleman.." It was endearing and a good reminder of how each of us should strive to be thought of when we are gone.
Up and out early, I had most of the day to explore on my own terms. I headed out on the scooter towards St Georges and the beautiful roads of Tuckertown. I should have taken snorkel gear forTobacco Bay, but what started out as a morning ride turned into a day out.
After a few hours exploring I headed to SPECIALTY INN. Got a breakfast sandwich with homemade Johnny Bread which was recommended by someone here. Loved this place, and on another trip with the independence of a scooter I would certainly return to this local place to hang for lunch or dinner.
Refreshed I headed to the other side of the island and spent some time in different coves of Somerset and a drive by at the Dockyard. I couldn't get off my scooter to join the tourists, so just drove thru. Actually, I couldn't get off my scooter in Hamilton either, other than to check out Harbourfront which looked like a great choice. Certainly not a shopping vacation! I also stopped by Blu and that too would have been a nice atmosphere for another time.
Mamalou and sis arrived. I decided to take them to Elbow Beach and hit the sand. After a beautiful sunset walk we settled in for tapas and sushi at SeaBreeze. It was perfect with great service and a full moon. After that we headed up to the main hotel to enjoy the Veranda Lounge and some great entertainment. It was the perfect plan, and the perfect start for their vacation! Sunset on the sand, suchi by moonlight and a loungeact with friendly folks!
Well, let's see....
Each time I was in a cab, I asked if they knew my dear friend Richard, who passed about 6 years ago.
The first gentleman driver said, "Oh yes, he was a very honourable man, a good man." The second driver said, "Sure I remember Richard. He was a self made man, a fine gentleman.." It was endearing and a good reminder of how each of us should strive to be thought of when we are gone.
Up and out early, I had most of the day to explore on my own terms. I headed out on the scooter towards St Georges and the beautiful roads of Tuckertown. I should have taken snorkel gear forTobacco Bay, but what started out as a morning ride turned into a day out.
After a few hours exploring I headed to SPECIALTY INN. Got a breakfast sandwich with homemade Johnny Bread which was recommended by someone here. Loved this place, and on another trip with the independence of a scooter I would certainly return to this local place to hang for lunch or dinner.
Refreshed I headed to the other side of the island and spent some time in different coves of Somerset and a drive by at the Dockyard. I couldn't get off my scooter to join the tourists, so just drove thru. Actually, I couldn't get off my scooter in Hamilton either, other than to check out Harbourfront which looked like a great choice. Certainly not a shopping vacation! I also stopped by Blu and that too would have been a nice atmosphere for another time.
Mamalou and sis arrived. I decided to take them to Elbow Beach and hit the sand. After a beautiful sunset walk we settled in for tapas and sushi at SeaBreeze. It was perfect with great service and a full moon. After that we headed up to the main hotel to enjoy the Veranda Lounge and some great entertainment. It was the perfect plan, and the perfect start for their vacation! Sunset on the sand, suchi by moonlight and a loungeact with friendly folks!
Sep 18th, 2008, 02:24 PM
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They sell lovely little cedar ornaments at the crafts shop over at Dockyard. Very small, wonderful scent, great Bermuda reminders....not that I think dogs generally or Viszlas particularly, care...........Just want their owners home.
Sep 19th, 2008, 07:21 PM
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Sometimes a clever title is the funnest part of my travel reports! Glad you liked it mymoosie! cmc - now I want a cedar thingamajigi. I honestly didn't enter a single shop other than the grocers on this trip!
Well up at dawn, I rolled over and skipped sunrise for a few more winks. Headed out for a morning ride to gas up, get some bus tokens at the SH Princess for Mom and sis, and get them some new suntan lotion. Bless their hearts, they didn't know that 5 year old suntan lotion will only promise you sun damage.
Packed up and met them at Church Bay for some hanging and snorkeling. Saw some beautiful fish, not many, but good times.
Later in the day they grabbed a bus, while I went back to Clairfont to pick up a picnic lunch. An afternoon swimming and exploring Horseshoe Bay and beyond does not suck! The 'boat people' like to hover together, so most of the beach and beyond is quiet. Both Church and Horseshoe had chair rental which helped mamalou's bones between frollicking on the beach.
Dinner: Well after many suggestions and debate on 3 travel forums I chose BEAU RIVAGE. I visited the property my first day and it felt right. Then I found out that this night would be their first full fledged menu, after a month of a soft opening limited menu. It was quite the dining adventure!
Well up at dawn, I rolled over and skipped sunrise for a few more winks. Headed out for a morning ride to gas up, get some bus tokens at the SH Princess for Mom and sis, and get them some new suntan lotion. Bless their hearts, they didn't know that 5 year old suntan lotion will only promise you sun damage.
Packed up and met them at Church Bay for some hanging and snorkeling. Saw some beautiful fish, not many, but good times.
Later in the day they grabbed a bus, while I went back to Clairfont to pick up a picnic lunch. An afternoon swimming and exploring Horseshoe Bay and beyond does not suck! The 'boat people' like to hover together, so most of the beach and beyond is quiet. Both Church and Horseshoe had chair rental which helped mamalou's bones between frollicking on the beach.
Dinner: Well after many suggestions and debate on 3 travel forums I chose BEAU RIVAGE. I visited the property my first day and it felt right. Then I found out that this night would be their first full fledged menu, after a month of a soft opening limited menu. It was quite the dining adventure!
Sep 20th, 2008, 05:10 AM
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I'm enjoying the trip report. I really have to make it to Bermuda one day. It's such an easy, quick, cheap flight from where I live (NJ). I've also only heard great things about the island. Thanks for sharing.
Sep 20th, 2008, 05:48 AM
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gyppie, I love your reports and this one is no exception. Would scooters be a good way for a newly married couple to get around the island? Are there sidecar options available? mUchos mahAlos smoochie.
Sep 20th, 2008, 06:18 PM
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No darling, scooters are not for newlyweds. They only have eyes for each other and can't possibly manouver the roads safely while looking at each other pie eyed in love.
Make no mistake, scooters can be lethally dangerous. As one must respect the pacific ocean in hawaii, one must respect the danger of the road and riding responsibly on a scooter in Bermuda. If you're not paying %110 attention, you could hurt yourself bad, or worse hurt someone else!
Thanks iamq for reminding me about the importance of scooterlicious safety!!!
Make no mistake, scooters can be lethally dangerous. As one must respect the pacific ocean in hawaii, one must respect the danger of the road and riding responsibly on a scooter in Bermuda. If you're not paying %110 attention, you could hurt yourself bad, or worse hurt someone else!
Thanks iamq for reminding me about the importance of scooterlicious safety!!!
Sep 20th, 2008, 06:56 PM
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So I was looking for that one meal to share an evening talking story with mamalou and sis. So many people suggested fantastic classic restaurants. After much thought I chose new with a view.
BEAU RIVAGE did not disappoint. Mamalou wasn't sure if she wanted french, thinking classic tiny portion fancy french meals. I told her, trust me. When I scootered by and stopped in I was told this was going to be their first evening of a full menu. How could I pass that up?
So we headed to the patio for cocktails at 7 enjoying the magnificant sunset. It is truly a spectacular location. We were then shown to the most spacious lovely window front table for three.
Our waiter, Jean Marie was that perfect server that just knows how to move in the room.
We ordered, FrogLegs - very flavourful. Caesar Salad - perfectly dressed. And Lobster Rav -just mediocre.
I asked for a glass of white for my app and a glass of red for my entree. I appreciated that they took that simple request and brought two great wines to accompany my dishes without interupting our conversation.
Entrees were the amazing lamb rack and 7 hour shank, the sweet scallops and my oxtail shepherds pie. All were wonderful, although the scallops missed a starch.
The evening was the thrill of opening night. The timing between app and entree was painful. The kitchen was clearly in the weeds. But the front of house was serene and in complete control. The bread was fantastic, a white garlic and a brown bread.
Jean Marie and the rest of our visiting staff were calm cool and collected. They never apologized, but thanked us for our patience. Jean Marie told us he had worked with chef in France and had followed him to Bermuda, hoping to be hired. This dear man has the eyes of a hobbit and the mirth of a potter character - just the most magical and gracious server one would want when the knives are throwing in the kitchen on opening night. And so we forgave any mishap from the kitchen because front of house was spot on.
After dinner, and coffee with deco china and sugar lollipops we walked down to the sofa by the infiniti pool for a quiet chat, soaking up the ambience.
What a joy to partake in wonderful food and impeccable service during opening night showtime!!!
BEAU RIVAGE did not disappoint. Mamalou wasn't sure if she wanted french, thinking classic tiny portion fancy french meals. I told her, trust me. When I scootered by and stopped in I was told this was going to be their first evening of a full menu. How could I pass that up?
So we headed to the patio for cocktails at 7 enjoying the magnificant sunset. It is truly a spectacular location. We were then shown to the most spacious lovely window front table for three.
Our waiter, Jean Marie was that perfect server that just knows how to move in the room.
We ordered, FrogLegs - very flavourful. Caesar Salad - perfectly dressed. And Lobster Rav -just mediocre.
I asked for a glass of white for my app and a glass of red for my entree. I appreciated that they took that simple request and brought two great wines to accompany my dishes without interupting our conversation.
Entrees were the amazing lamb rack and 7 hour shank, the sweet scallops and my oxtail shepherds pie. All were wonderful, although the scallops missed a starch.
The evening was the thrill of opening night. The timing between app and entree was painful. The kitchen was clearly in the weeds. But the front of house was serene and in complete control. The bread was fantastic, a white garlic and a brown bread.
Jean Marie and the rest of our visiting staff were calm cool and collected. They never apologized, but thanked us for our patience. Jean Marie told us he had worked with chef in France and had followed him to Bermuda, hoping to be hired. This dear man has the eyes of a hobbit and the mirth of a potter character - just the most magical and gracious server one would want when the knives are throwing in the kitchen on opening night. And so we forgave any mishap from the kitchen because front of house was spot on.
After dinner, and coffee with deco china and sugar lollipops we walked down to the sofa by the infiniti pool for a quiet chat, soaking up the ambience.
What a joy to partake in wonderful food and impeccable service during opening night showtime!!!
Sep 21st, 2008, 08:04 AM
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My last day on island we walked to Warwick Long Bay and Jobson's Cove with a thermos of coffee. After a final dip in that glorious green/blue water I packed up and said my goodbyes to family and Corrine our caretaker. Again, Clairfont was the perfect choice for me and am so thankful to those who endorsed it.
With my gear strapped to the scooter, I headed out for my final tour, driving the north roads to St. Georges. It would be a downright shame to visit and not tour the area around Fort St Catherine. Hopefully Mom and Sis will take a horse and buggy tour of the area when they arrive there today, for their final evening at Aunt Nea's. I stopped at Blackbeards Hideaway and loved the conch fritters. A great version with just enough heat. Again, the perfect place for a last meal and breathtaking setting and great service, with lots of locals having casual business lunches and a few 'boat people' who smartly made the trek.
Last stop, the airport where I joined up with my dear friend from Eve's cycles. A quick drop off, handshake and a generous tip for his troubles and I was on my way home.
Again, thank you one and all for all the suggestions. Your guidance helped make this the perfect getaway!
gyppie
With my gear strapped to the scooter, I headed out for my final tour, driving the north roads to St. Georges. It would be a downright shame to visit and not tour the area around Fort St Catherine. Hopefully Mom and Sis will take a horse and buggy tour of the area when they arrive there today, for their final evening at Aunt Nea's. I stopped at Blackbeards Hideaway and loved the conch fritters. A great version with just enough heat. Again, the perfect place for a last meal and breathtaking setting and great service, with lots of locals having casual business lunches and a few 'boat people' who smartly made the trek.
Last stop, the airport where I joined up with my dear friend from Eve's cycles. A quick drop off, handshake and a generous tip for his troubles and I was on my way home.
Again, thank you one and all for all the suggestions. Your guidance helped make this the perfect getaway!
gyppie
Sep 22nd, 2008, 10:19 AM
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Thanks ejcrowe
One thing I failed to mention, which was a factor at Beau Rivage was that while having cocktails, chef came out to visit with a guest who was Celiac and had intensive diet restrictions. Talk about starting out a challenging night with a monkey wrench!
One thing I failed to mention, which was a factor at Beau Rivage was that while having cocktails, chef came out to visit with a guest who was Celiac and had intensive diet restrictions. Talk about starting out a challenging night with a monkey wrench!
